This guidebook — the only general guide in English to cover this part of the Turkish Coast in detail — is an ideal companion for motorists who want to tour Lycia by car, as well as those planning a holiday walking in Turkey. The book combines the best features of our ‘Landscapes‘ walking and car touring guides with all the detail you would expect in a hefty general guide, but it is pocket size and in full colour. Coverage includes getting there and getting about; recommended accommodation, campsites and restaurants (all with prices); practicalities A-Z; history; 15 main walks with many variations, all with large-scale topo maps; fold-out area map; large-scale town plans showing locations of all sights, hotels and restaurants; plans of historical sites; and many ‘feature’ panels.

The whole Lycian Peninsula takes in a very large area; this guide concentrates on the region between Kas and Dalyan. There are two other books in the trilogy — one covering the area east of Kas to Antalya and Alanya, the other exploring the Gulf of Gokova to the west and focussing on the Marmaris and Bodrum peninsulas.

All the authors have been visiting Turkey for many years, writing general and walking guides. Dean Livesley was one of the original developers of the famous Lycian Way, Turkey’s first long-distance footpath, and a key feature of this book is coverage of the Lycian Way as day walks, with full transport details.

Area covered: From Demre and Simena east of Kas to Lake Koycegiz in the west. Popular places to stay are Kas, Kalkan, Fethiye and Dalyan; other highlights include Patara and Ölüdeniz.

Many correspondents tell us their knowledge of the geography of Turkey is very limited and want to know which resorts are covered in each of our guides. Here is a simple map showing the locations of the principal towns within the three regions covered by our Turkish Coast titles.

To check if a specific resort is included in one of the books, check the book’s contents or index on Amazon’s ‘Look Inside’. If you are unsure of the locations of smaller resorts in relation to the areas covered in our guide books, please refer to the maps appearing in tour operators’ brochures.

The best months for walking in Turkey or walking the Lycian Way are April, May, September and October.

For ease of access to bus services, stay in or near one of the towns shown on the map below. If you are hiring a car, choose any resort near the main coastal road.

184 pages + touring map
Town plans: Kas, Kalkan, Fethiye, Dalyan
Site plans: Patara, Xanthos, Pinara, Tlos
16 walks, each illustrated with large-scale (1:50,000) topo maps
3rd ed, 2012; ISBN 978-1-85691-400-0; UK retail price £14.99 / USA retail price $19.99

Table of contents:

IMPORTANT: Place names in Turkey often contain characters with accents, which are not included in western European fonts. Accented characters such as these often appear incorrectly when viewed on the web and if used may be replaced by unrecognizable symbols when viewed on a different computer. Accented characters in the place names shown here have therefore been replaced by characters without accents. However, in the book, the appropriate font has been used to ensure that all place names appear with the correct accents.

Preface 5

Publisher’s note 8

Turkey in facts and figures 10

Introduction 12

When to go 12

Getting to the area 12
By air 12
By car, train 13
Getting around the area 14
By car or motorcycle 14
By bus 16
By Fez Bus, dolmus 17
By taxi, train, ferry, chartered boat; ‘Blue cruises’ 19
By organised tour, bicycle, hitchhiking 20
Walking 21
Accommodation 24
Food and drink 27
Practicalities A-Z 33
Ancient sites – the most important terms, Beaches 33
Books for background reading, Chemists, Children, Climate and weather, Consulates/embassies 34
Crime, Currency 35
Dress, Electricity, Festivals and holidays 36
Flora and fauna 37
Gays and lesbians, Import and export regulations 38
Information about Turkey, Inoculations, Internet access, Invitations 39
Islam 40
Maps (large-scale), Medical care, Music and belly dance 44
Newspapers and magazines 45
Opening times, Police, Post offices, Prices, Shopping and bargaining 46
Sites and museums 48
Sport and leisure 49
Telephone 50
Time, Toilets 51
Travel documents, Turkish 52
Women 55

History 56

1 KAS 63
Town plan 66-67
Day trip to the Greek island of Kastellorizo 71
Walk 1:  Kastellorizo 73
Walk 2:  Kas · Bayindir · Liman Agzi · Kas 76
Walk 3:  Kas – Liman Agzi loop 80
Walk 4:  Bozkaya 82
Walk 5:  Sinekci · Semsi · Nisa · Sutlegen 85
Walk 6:  Kas· Cukurbag · Phellos · Derekoy ·Felen Bridge 88
Walk 7:  Dirgenler – Dereagzi loop 92

2 EXCURSIONS EAST OF KAS95
Demre (Kale), with Myra and Andriake 95
Kekova and Simena 96
Walk 8:  Davazlar junction · Hoyran · Kapakli · Cayagzi 98
Walk 9:  Ucagiz · Burc Castle · Gokkaya loop 101
Walk 10:  Kilincli · Apollonia · Aperlae 1053

KALKAN 108
Town plan 1114

PATARA 114
Patara (with site plan) 118
Walk 11:  Yesilkoy · Delikkemer Aqueduct · Patara 121

5 BETWEEN PATARA AND OLUDENIZ 125
Xanthos (with site plan) 125
Letoon 128
Sidyma 129
Pinara (with site plan) 130
Saklikent Gorge 131
Walk 12:  Arsakoy to the Saklikent Gorge 133
Tlos (with site plan) 136
Gebeler 138

6 OLUDENIZ 139
South of Oludeniz 143
Kayakoyu 145
Gemiler Bay 147
Walk 13:  From Kayakoyu to Oludeniz 148
Walk 14:  Ovacik · Faralya · Kabak 150
Walk 15:  Kabak – Alinca loop 153

7 FETHIYE 155
Town plan 158-9
Kadyanda, Oineanda 166
Walk 16:  Oineanda 167

8 GOCEK AND THE AREA BETWEEN FETHIYE AND DALYAN 169
Bay of Katranci, Gocek 169
Dalaman Airport 171
Osmaniye, Ortaca 172

9 DALYAN AND SURROUNDINGS 173
Town plan 176
Sights around Dalyan 178
Koycegiz 179
Sights around Koycegiz 181
Bay of Ekincik 182

Index 183
Fold-out area map inside back cover

IMPORTANT: Place names in Turkey often contain characters with accents, which are not included in western European fonts. Accented characters such as these often appear incorrectly when viewed on the web and if used may be replaced by unrecognizable symbols when viewed on a different computer. Accented characters in the place names shown here have therefore been replaced by characters without accents. However, in the book, the appropriate font has been used to ensure that all place names appear with the correct accents.

Alinca 153, 154
Andriake 95, 98,100
Antiphellos (see Kas)
Aperlae 105, 107
Apollonia 105, 106
Arsada (site) 134, 135
Arsakoy 133, 135

Bayindir 76, 77, 78-79
Bogazcik 78-79, 105
Bozkaya (mountain) 82. 83, 84-85
Burc Castle 101, 103
Butterfly Valley (near Oludeniz) 5, 143

Cam Dag (mountain) 78-79
Caunos 178
Cayagzi 98, 100
Cukurbag 88, 89, 90

Dalaman Airport 171-172
Dalyan 6, 8, 173-179, 174
Davazlar 93, 98
Delikkemer Aqueduct 121, 123
Demre (Kale) 92, 93, 94
Dereagzi 92, 93, 94, 94
Derekoy 88, 89, 91
Dirgenler 92, 93, 94

Ekincik, Bay 182
Esen Cayi 120, 121, 125

Faralya 143, 150, 151, 152
Felen Bridge 88, 89, 91
Felen Dag 89, 90
Fethiye 41, 50, 148, 155-166, 156, 163

Gebeler 125,138
Gelemis (see Patara) 123
Gemiler Bay 147, 148, 149
Gemiler Island (Gemiler Adasi) 147, 148, 149, 161
Gocek 169, 170, 171
Gokkaya 101, 102, 104
Gokkaya Bay 98
Gombe 113
Gursu 82, 84-85

Hisaronu (Hisaronu Koy) 148
Hoyran 98, 99

Incealiler 167, 168

Kabak (town, bay, beach) 144, 150, 152, 153, 154
Kadyanda (site) 166
Kale (see Demre)
Kale Koy (Simena) 101
Kalkan 27, 108, 109
Kapakli 98, 100. 102
Kaputas (bay, beach) 7, 113
Kas 47, 63-71, 69, 70, 72, 73, 74, 75, 80, 81, 88, 89
Kastellorizo (Greek island) 20
Katranci, Bay 7,161,169
Kayakoyu 145, 148, 149
Kekova 8, 95, 96, 106, 107
Kelebek Vadisi (see Butterfly Valley)
Kidrak Bay 143
Kilincli 105, 106
Koycegiz 179, 180, 181
Kumluova Plaji 118
Kuruova Beli (pass) 82, 84-85

Letoon 7, 125, 128, 129
Liman Agzi 76, 78-79, 80, 81

Myra 92, 93, 95

Nisa 84-85, 87

Oineanda (site) 166, 167, 168
Oludeniz 5, 7, 139, 141, 148, 149, 161
Ortaca 172
Osmaniye 172
Ovacik 148, 159, 152

Patara (Gelemis) 7, 33, 114, 115, 120, 121, 123
Phellos 88, 89, 90
Pinara (site) 125, 129 (plan), 131

Saklikent Gorge 8, 125, 131, 132, 133, 135
Sidyma 125, 129
Simena 95, 96, 98, 101, 104
Sinekci 84-85, 86
Sutlegen 84-85, 87

Taurus Mountains 8, 22, 37
Telmessus 148
Tlos (site)125, 136, 137 (plan), 138

Ucagiz 98, 101, 103, 104, 107
Ufakdere 76, 78-79, 105

Xanthos (site) 7, 49, 57, 125, 126 (plan), 127

Yesilkoy 121, 123

TURKISH COAST: KAS TO DALYAN, Third edition, published 2011 ; updated 12/09/09

Updates for walks and all general information given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

General: We’ve recently returned from a holiday in Turkey (last week October, first week November). Accommodation – All good and everywhere our hosts were friendly and helpful: Onur Pension in Ucagiz was the most beautiful place we stayed; Onur was very friendly and helpful, lovely fish caught that morning, good walks along Lycian Way and others waymarked by Onur, as well as a boat trip over the sunken ruins for a swim at Kekova Island; although next to the mosque this was not a drawback (at least in early November), as the call to prayer was the most beautiful we heard in Turkey, good value at 35 euro for 2 B&B, 55 euro for two half board. Golden Pension, Patara, was good value – 40YTL B&B for 2, through the ancient ruins for a swim in November at an empty 20 km sandy beach -the best in Turkey? (Cirali, Kekova and Kabak also had good beaches, Olu Deniz nice but too crowded for us). Villa Rhapsody, Kayakoy, 65YTL for 2 B&B. Some of the prices may be a little low because we were out of season… There is an excellent new restaurant at Tlos called Likyahill – on the right as you come up the hill towards the site, with big terrace and cool interior (very cool in Jan!). Freshwater fish and powerful local wine, genial owner… Found a very friendly small hotel in Dalyan – the Queen’s Hotel, run by two Englishmen. Small bar, tiny theatre where they do quizzes and (we think) drag acts – clean comfortable rooms, 60 – 80 TKL for a double room. It’s on a side street one block beyond the main square and mosque, and looks out over the river and rock tombs at the back… We found a good 1/250,000 map on sale at Xanthos in the ticket office, which seems acccurate and gives the sites. Published by Sabri Aydal (archaeologist and surveyor, it says) sabriaydal@mynet.com, distributor Uluc Mah, Camlica Sitesi C Blok no.22 ANTALYA, tel 0242 228 46 46. (User, 1/09) + We just enjoyed two weeks in Turkey, one of which was at Oludeniz near Fethiye. We really enjoyed it,but were a little dismayed by how touristy the area of Oludeniz, Hisaronu etc are. They are basically UK tourist enclaves; we hardly heard another voice all the time. But we enjoyed it, including some walking. Looking forward to our next trip to the area and thanks for the book which is really useful. (User, 5/09)

Walk 15 Kabak loop: Below some waypoints. (User, 1/08)

(WGS 84)Waypoint TR_KbAl_01_Mamas N36.46752 E29.12374
Waypoint TR_KbAl_02_res N36.46956 E29.12905
Waypoint TR_KbAl_03_bend N36.47040 E29.12944
Waypoint TR_KbAl_07_jkt N36.46956 E29.14487

Beach: Asi Koyu (Asi Beach, page 177): This once-idyllic beach came to grief in 2009; the once-excellent taverna was in ruins, the beach full of rubbish. But that doesn’t mean it will remain in a bad state. It’s only accessible by car, and quite a long trip. So before you try to visit it, ask locally about the current situation. It can only be reached with private transport. From Dalyan first take the road towards Iztuzu Beach. Turn left after 7km (signposted). After another 700m ignore two left turns. Some 300m further on, don’t take the signposted right turn to Asi Koyu (unsurfaced, bumpy and not signposted). Instead go straight on for 3.7km, then turn right (400m past a bridge). After 2.5km the road loses its tarred surface; 2.5km further on, by a fork with a spring, keep left. Now it’s just 3km of bumpy track. (Authors, 2010)