The Costa Brava — literally the ‘rugged coast’, in reference to the rocky, inhospitable nature of much of the shore — runs from the French border southwards towards Barcelona. Behind the coast lie the Serralada Litoral and Serralada Prelitoral. These ranges include such varied landscapes as the extraordinary conglomerate pinnacles of Montserrat, the dormant volcanoes of the Garrotxa and the subalpine heights of the Montseny. It is this very variety, coupled with its proximity to Barcelona and the coastal towns, that makes walking in the Costa Brava hinterland so attractive.

The authors describe the best walks in this part of Catalonia, be they the classic routes that form part of the repertoire of any self-respecting Catalan walker, or some of their personal favourites way off the beaten track. A special feature of this guide book is the focus on the enormous variety of wildlife on offer, and the authors, keen naturalists, urge you to carry a pair of binoculars and the appropriate field guides.

Area covered: from Portbou, Colera, the Serra de l’Albera and Port de Llança in the north down to Barcelona in the south. The book does not cover the Costa Dorada (which is south of Barcelona).

Best months for walking: September to June

Good bases are Barcelona, Olot, Girona and Figueres — depending on the area in which you intend to walk.

6 car tours, 18 short and easy walks for motorists, 23 main walks + many variations, picnic suggestions
136 pages + touring map; large-scale (1:50,000) topo maps
3rd ed, 2011; ISBN 978-1-85691-406-2; UK retail price £12.99 / USA retail price $17.99

Table of contents:

Preface 5
Acknowledgements; Useful books 7

Getting about 9

Short walks and picnic suggestions 11
Countryside code 12

TOURING 13
Car tour 1: NORTH OF BARCELONA 15
(including Short walks 1-3 for motorists)
Car tour 2: EL MONTSENY 21
(including Short walks 4-6 for motorists)
Car tour 3: LA GARROTXA AND EL PLA DE L’ESTANY 26
(including Short walks 7-10 for motorists)
Car tour 4: THE BAIX EMPORDÀ 32
(including Short walks 11-14 for motorists)
Car tour 5: THE ALT EMPORDÀ PLAIN 40
(including Short walk 15 for motorists)
Car tour 6: THE ESSENCE OF THE ALT EMPORDÀ 45
(including Short walks 16-18 for motorists)

WALKING 50
Maps 50
Waymarking 51
Where to stay 51
Weather hints 52
Clothing and equipment 53
Dogs – and other nuisances 54
General advice to walkers 55
Language hints 56
Glossary 57
Organisation of the walks 58

THE WALKS
1 Mare de Déu de Bruguers · Castell d’Eramprunyà · Puig de les Agulles · La Morella · La Pleta · Garraf 59
2 Baixador de Vallvidrera · Font Groga · Sant Medir · Can Borrell · Sant Cugat 63
3 Monestir de Montserrat · Pla dels Ocells · Sant Jeroni · Pla de les Taràntules · Sant Miquel · Monestir de Montserrat 66
4 Coll d’Estenalles · La Mola · La Barata · Camí Ral · Castellsapera · Coll d’Estenalles 69
5 Riells del Fai · Sant Miquel del Fai · L’Ullar · Sant Pere de Bertí · Cingles de Bertí · Sot del Bac · El Figaró 73
6 Santa Fe · Font del Briançó · Les Agudes · Turó de l’Home · L’Avetosa · Font de Passavets · Santa Fe 77
7 Collformic · Coll Saprunera · Matagalls · Pla de la Barraca · Collformic 80
8 Sant Aniol de Finestres · Font dels Sòcals · Les Medes · Puigsallança · Santa Maria de Finestres · Castell de Finestres · Sant Aniol de Finestres 83
9 Coll de Bracons · Font Tornadissa · Rasos de Manter · Puigsa-calm · Rasos de Manter · Font Tornadissa · Coll de Bracons 87
10 Sant Privat d’en Bas · Mare de Déu de les Olletes · Santa Magdalena del Mont · (Puig Corneli) · Salt de Sallent · Sant Privat d’en Bas 90
11 Olot (Parc Nou) · La Moixina · Fageda d’en Jordà · Sant Martí del Corb · Sant Miquel del Corb · Volcà del Racó · La Moixina · Olot (Parc Nou) 94
12 Can Serra · Fageda d’en Jordà · Volcà de Santa Margarida · Volcà del Croscat · Can Serra 98
13 La Bisbal · Riera de Pastells · Sant Cebrià de Lledó · Puig de Sant Miquel · Riera de Cantagalls · Molí d’en Frigola · La Bisbal 101
14 Palafrugell · Tamariu · Cala Pedrosa · Far de Sant Sebastià · Palafrugell 105
15 Torroella de Montgrí · Casa de les Dunes · Montplà · Castell de Montgrí · Coll de la Creu · Torroella de Montgrí 108
16 L’Estartit · Cala Pedrosa · Cala Ferriol · Torre Ponça · L’Estartit 111
17 Castelló d’Empúries · Estany Europa · El Cortalet · La Massona · El Cortalet · Castelló d’Empúries 113
18 Les Torroelles · Estany de Vilaüt · Vilaüt · La Torre del Vent · Les Torroelles 117
19 Montjoi · Cap de Norfeu · Montjoi 119
20 Port de la Selva · Sant Baldiri · Cala Tavallera · Prat de Romagós · Cap de Creus · Portlligat · Cadaqués 122
21 Sant Quirc de Colera · Coll de la Plaja · Puig de la Calma · Puig d’en Jordà · Coll de Pallerols · Sant Quirc de Colera 126
22 Requesens · Coll Forcat · Puig Neulós · Collades de Parmal · Castell de Requesens · Requesens 128
23 Mare de Déu de la Salut · Ermita de Santa Magdalena · Coll de Vellís · Ermita de Santa Magdalena · Mare de Déu de la Salut 130

Index 133
Illustrations of flora and fauna 135
Fold-out map/Transport timetables 136

Les Agudes 21, 22-3, 24, 77, 78, 79
Agullana 40, 41
Aiguamolls de l’Empordà 5, 43, 44, 45, 48, 49, 54, 57, 113, 115, 116, 117, 118
Avetosa 22-3, 77, 79
Baixador de Vallvidrera 63, 65
Banyoles 26, 28, 29, 30
Banyuls-sur-Mer 127
Barcelona 5, 6, 9, 10, 13, 15, 20, 21, 50, 51, 58, 59, 63, 66, 69, 73, 136
Begur 32, 37, 105
Besalú 26, 30, 31
La Bisbal d’Empordà 32, 34, 101, 102-3, 104, 136
El Brull 21, 25
Cadaqués 45, 47, 122, 124-5, 136
Cala Fornells 48
Cala Jóncols 120
Cala Montjoi 47, 120, 121
Cala Pedrosa
east of Palafrugell 105, 106, 107
north of L’Estartit 111, 112
Caldes de Montbui 15
La Calella 35
Calella de Palafrugell 32, 37
Camí dels Matxos 90, 91, 92, 93
Camí Ral 69, 70, 71
Can Casades 22, 23, 77, 79
Can Serra 27, 28, 94, 95, 98, 100
Cantallops 40, 42, 128, 130
Cap de Creus 40, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 112, 119, 120, 122, 123, 124-5
Cap de la Barra 35, cover
Cap de Norfeu 119, 120, 120-1
Cap Roig 32, 37
Capmany 40, 42
Casa de les Dunes 108, 109, 110, 112
Castell de Montgrí 36, 108, 109, 110, 112
Castell de Requesens 40, 42, 128, 130
Castell de Santa Pau 28
Castell de Sant Salvador de Verdera 10, 17, 46
Castellfollit de la Roca 26, 31
Castelló d’Empúries 10, 40, 44, 49, 113, 114, 115, 116, 117, 136
Castellsapera 69, 70, 71, 72
Centelles 15, 17, 18
Cingles de Bertí 73, 74-5
Coll de Banyuls 40, 42, 43, 126
Coll de Bracons 87, 89
Coll d’Estenalles 18, 19, 20, 69, 70, 71, 72, 136
Collformic 21, 24, 25, 80, 82
El Cortalet 45, 49, 113, 114, 115, 116, 117
La Costa del Montseny 21, 25
Coves del Reclau 30
Coves del Toll 15, 19
La Creu d’en Cobertella 47
Cruïlles 32, 34, 36, 101, 103, 104
Darnius 40, 41
Daró River 35, 101, 102-3, 104
Empordà 5, 32, 34, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 101, 109, 113, 118, 122, 127
Alt Empordà 40, 43, 44, 45, 47, 49
Baix Empordà 32, 34, 37, 38, 39, 101, 109
Empuriabrava 114, 115
Empúries 49
Ermita de Santa Magdalena 131, 131, 132
Espinelves 21, 24
Espolla 40, 42, 43
L’Estany 15, 19
Estany de Banyoles 26, 29
Estany de Vilaüt 117, 118
Estany Europa 113, 114, 115
Estanys de Canadal 40, 42
Estanys del Matà 114, 115
L’Estartit 32, 35, 36, 111, 112, 136
Fageda d’en Jordà 26, 27, 28, 57, 94, 95, 96, 98, 99, 100
Far de Sant Sebastià 32, 37, 105, 106
El Figaró 7, 73, 74-5, 76
Figueres 9, 10, 13, 38, 40, 42, 43, 44, 45, 47, 49, 52, 58, 136
Fluvià River 30, 31, 43, 49
Font del Briançó 77, 78, 79
Font Groga 63, 64, 65
Font Tornadissa 87, 88, 89
Garraf Massif 5, 59, 60, 61, 62
Garriguella 40, 42, 43
La Garrotxa 6, 9, 26, 29, 30, 51, 52, 58, 83, 86-87, 94, 95, 96, 98, 99, 100, 117
Les Gavarres 101, 102-3
Gavà 59, 60, 136
Girona 9, 10, 13, 23, 26, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 39, 50, 51, 52, 58, 80, 81, 83, 136
Gola del Ter 36, 57
Granollers 136
Illes Medes 36, 108-9
Joanetes 4-5
Llafranc 32, 37, 105, 107
Llagostera 32, 39
Llémena River 83, 84, 85
Llobregat River 19, 20
Madremanya 32, 34-5
Manresa 9, 17, 20, 71
Mare de Déu de Bruguers 59, 60, 61, 136
Mare de Déu de la Salut 40, 41, 131, 132
Mare de Déu des les Olletes 90, 92, 93
Mas Ventós 45, 46
La Massona 113, 114, 115, 116
Matagalls 21, 23, 24, 80, 81, 82
Moià 15, 17, 19
La Moixina 94, 95, 96, 97
La Mola 64, 69, 70, 71
Monells 32, 34
Monistrol de Montserrat 20
Montcau 18, 69
Montgrí, Massís de 32, 35, 36, 108-9, 110, 111, 112, 132, 136
Montjoi 45, 47, 119, 120, 121
Montplà 108-9, 110
El Montseny 6, 21, 22-3, 24, 25, 38, 51, 52, 75, 77, 78, 79, 80, 82
Montserrat, Muntanya de 6, 9, 14, 15, 19, 20, 52, 66, 67, 67, 68, 69, 72; Monestir de Montserrat 20, 66, 67, 68
Muga River 40, 41, 44, 115, 116
Mura 2, 14, 15, 19, 20
Navarcles 15, 19
Olot 10, 13, 26, 28, 30, 31, 52, 58, 83, 87, 90, 94, 95, 97, 98, 136
Orlina River 40, 43
Palafrugell 10, 32, 37, 39, 105, 106, 107, 136
Palamós 32, 39
Palau-saverdera 43, 117
Pals 32, 36, 37
Pantà de Boadella 40, 41
Pantà de Santa Fe 21, 22
Pas dels Francesos 67
Rabós 40, 42, 43
Peralada 40, 44, 113
Peratallada 32, 34, 35
El Pla de L’Estany 24, 26, 29
Pla de les Taràntules 66, 67, 68
Platja de Pals 32, 36
Platja del Castell 32, 38, 39
Pont de Can Prat 28, 29
Porqueres 26, 29-30
Port de la Selva 10, 45, 47-48, 122, 124-5, 136
Portlligat 47, 122, 124-5
Púbol 30, 32,
Puig Corneli 4-5, 90, 92
Puig de la Calma 126, 127
Puig de les Agulles 59, 60, 61, 62
Puig de les Cadiretes 32, 38-39
Puig d’en Jordà 126, 126, 127
Puig de Sant Miquel 101, 102-3, 104
Puig Neulós 128-9, 130
Puig Ventós 24
Puigsacalm 4-5, 52, 87, 89, 90, 91, 92
Puigsallança 83, 85, 86
Pyrenees 6, 8, 23, 38, 52, 68, 78, 82, 85, 87, 100, 132
Rabós 40, 42, 43
Requesens 40, 42, 128, 129, 130
Riells de Fai 73, 74-5, 136
Riera de Santa Fe 22, 25, 78
Roses 10, 42, 43, 45, 47, 49, 113, 114
Bahia de Roses 113, 115
Salt de Sallent 90, 91, 92, 93
Sant Aniol de Finestres 83, 84, 85, 86, 136
Sant Baldiri de Tavallera 122, 123, 124-5
Sant Cebrià de Lledó 101, 102-3, 104
Sant Celoni 21, 25
Sant Cugat 63, 65
Sant Feliu de Codines 15
Sant Feliu de Guíxols 32, 39
Sant Grau 32, 39
Sant Jeroni 66, 67, 68
Sant Llorenç del Munt 15, 18, 19, 51, 52, 64, 69, 70, 70, 71, 72
Sant Marçal 21, 23
Sant Martí de Centelles 15, 17, 18
Sant Martí del Corb 94, 95, 95, 96
Sant Miquel del Corb 94, 95, 97
Sant Miquel del Fai 15, 16-7, 73, 74-5, 75
Sant Miquel Sacot 99, 100
Sant Pere de Rodes, Monestir de 10, 45, 46
Sant Pere Pescador 45, 49
Sant Privat d’en Bas 89, 90, 91, 93
Sant Quirc de Colera, Monestir de 40, 43, 126, 127
Sant Segimón, Monestir de 81, 82, 82
Sant Tomàs de Fluvià 45, 49
Santa Caterina, Muntanya de 36, 109, 110
Santa Fe de Montseny 21, 22, 23, 25, 77, 78, 79, 136
Santa Helena 46
Santa Magdalena, Muntanya de 131, 131, 132
Santa Magdalena del Mont 90, 91, 92
Santa Maria de Finestres 83, 84, 85, 86
Santa Pau 26, 28, 86, 94
Serinyà 26, 30, 31
La Resclosa de Serinyà 26, 30
Serra de Collserola 63
Serra de Finestres 28, 83, 84, 85
Serra de l’Albera 40, 42-3, 126, 128-9, 130
Serra de Santa Magdalena 4-5, 87, 89, 90, 91, 92
Serra d’Obac 69, 70
Seva 17, 21, 25
Talamanca 15, 19, 69
Tamariu 32, 37, 105, 106, 107
Taula dels Tres Bisbes 23, 25
Terrades 40
Terrassa 9, 15, 20, 69, 136
El Tibidabo 63-64, 65
Tona 15, 17, 25
El Torn 26, 28, 127
Torre de Collserola 63
Torre de Norfeu 121
Torre del Vent 117, 118
Torre Ponça 111, 112
Torroella de Montgrí 32, 36, 108, 109, 110, 136
Les Torroelles 43, 117, 118
La Trona 74, 75, 76
Sa Tuna 32, 36, 37
Turó de l’Home 21, 22, 23, 24, 57, 77, 79, 80
Ullastret 32, 34, 35
Vall de Sant Daniel 33
Vallvidrera 64, 65
Verdera, Muntanya de 117
Vic 17, 23, 24, 87
Vilabertran 40, 43, 44
Viladrau 21, 24
Vilajuïga 40, 43, 45
Vilaür 49
Vilaüt 43, 117, 118
Volcà de Santa Margarida 27, 98
Àrea de Santa Margarida 27, 28, 98, 100
Volcà del Croscat 26, 27, 98, 99, 100
Volcà del Racó 94, 95, 97

Costa Brava and Barcelona, 2nd edition (2006), updated 11/04/2013

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) in the Costa Blanca region given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

Walks, general: In the local tourist offices you can now get sketch maps and write-ups of many walks (for instance, in Olot for various walks in the volcano area, in other places like Rupit and Tavertet (between Vic and Olot) for other lovely walks. (e-mail, 5/08)

Short Walk for motorists 8 on car tour 3  You may now have to pay to enter into the volcano of Croscat, which is being turned into an open-air museum. (Sunflower, 2013)

Short Walk for Motorists 11, in Girona. A nice walk, gets you out of the city. Some confusion before the 45 minute point: the directions to descend to the left of the pylon didn’t seem to make sense- we ended up meeting the City Walls at a different point. (User, 10/09)

Walk 3: The bridge referred to in page 66 is demolished due to civil works. Access to the GR-172 is from the erected stairs which can be accessed from the upper square (in front of the monastery entrance). (e-mail, 10/07)

Walk 5: SAGALES bus Barcelona – Riells del Fai: Only the 06:00 and 20:00 bus leave from the corner of Passeig de Sant Joan & c/Diputacio, the rest i.e. 7:10, 10:10, 11:10, 12:10, 13:10, 14:10 etc leave from near the METRO station of Sagrera. (e-mail, 10/07)

Walk 9: This worked fine – good directions. (User, 10/09)

Walk 10: Access: the dirt track going off to the left ,signposted to “Puigsacalm” and “Can Turo” now has a tarmac cover exactly up to the point where the walk starts. (User, 9/06) + The description in the book is very precise and up-to-date, but here are two suggestions: On weekends the parking places by the picnic spots are full to bursting, and it is easier to park at a signposted parking area just to the right of the turn off to ‘Puigsacalm’ mentioned in the book. Walk from there on the dirt road to the “Can Turo” restaurant where the walk begins. This adds 11min each way. At the 1h55min-point and again on the return from Santa Madgdalena we ignore a sign to Puigsacalm. Why? In the book it mentions a variation from Santa Magdalena the ascent of Puig Corneli, but in good weather I think it’s better to climb Puigsacalm. The route is well waymarked from the sign (even though the waymarks are quite faded). When the route splits in a few minutes, take the right fork, which runs past Puig del Llops to Puigsacalm. The ascent lasts about 40 min, the descent about 30 min. In some places you have to scramble, but if you’ve managed the Escales de Sallent, this route will be no problem. (User, 5/04)

Walk 12: signposted throughout as Route 1, Route 2 (circuit of Tossol), Route 15 – there are maps and descriptions in English in the nature park information kiosk. The circuit in the Santa Margarida crater is now signposted. (e-mail, 5/08)

Walk 15: After the 10min-point there is a green gate on the right. After the 2h15min-point the walk no longer goes through pines – there’s been a fire, and it’s now unshaded and less attractive. (e-mail, 5/08)

Walk 16: Here’s a possible improvement for those with a car. The climb up from l’Estartit to the top of the ” plateau” is long and tedious. Much easier, drive to the top and park at the 25 minute spot. Either along the road, or in the woods, probably parking for 60-75 cars in various spots. ( We didn’t make it to the cove, unfortunately, due to some knee problems, so likely missed out on the best part – the approach section is rather bleak). (User, 10/09)

Walks 14-18: Some 1:25,000 maps published by Verlag Piolet are now available locally in bookshops for walks in the following areas:

1) P.N.Aiguamolls – l’Escala
2) l’Escala – Pals
3) Pals – Palamos,

These show both GR and local walking routes. With these maps you can extend your walks in this area. (e-mail, 5/08)