Fascinating Lanzarote is truly extraordinary. Its fate was decided some two and one-half centuries ago, when the largest volcanic eruption in recorded history took place, leaving a strange and alluring countryside in its wake — a landscape littered with volcanoes and dark streams of jagged lava. This is the backdrop to nearly every scene on the island, and intriguing sights abound — none more so than the ‘Fire Mountains’. As for walking in Lanzarote, there is no better place in the Canaries for just strolling; ramblers will be in their element here. Each of the walks in this book takes you to a different corner of the island and shows you a scenically different outlook. But if walking is not your favourite pastime, then do explore Lanzarote by car.

Area covered: The guide covers the whole of Lanzarote and includes a day-trip to explore Fuerteventura by car. There is also a walk on the island of Lobos — off the coast of Fuerteventura, but also accessible by boat from Playa Blanca on Lanzarote.

The best time for walking in Lanzarote is from October to June.

Walkers relying on public transport should stay in Arrecife (the capital), with buses to all areas. Otherwise, at least five walks will be accessibe from each of the four major resorts: Puerto del Carmen, Costa Teguise, Playa Blanca and Puerto Calero. 

3 car tours, 40 long and short walks, 15 picnic suggestions
128 pages + 2 touring maps (Lanzarote and northern Fuerteventura); plans of Arrecife, Puerto del Carmen, Playa Blanca and Corralejo (Fuerteventura); large-scale (1:50,000) topo maps
5th ed, January 2013; ISBN 978-1-85691-428-4; UK retail price £12.99 / USA retail price $17.99

Table of contents:

Preface 5
Acknowledgements 6
Useful books 6
Getting about 7
Plan of Puerto del Carmen 6-7
Plans of Arrecife, Playa Blanca 8-9
Picnic suggestions 11

TOURING
TOUR 1: THE SIGHTS OF THE NORTH 19
Puerto del Carmen · Tahiche · Arrieta · Jameos del Agua · Cueva de los Verdes · Orzola · Mirador del Río · Haría · Teguise · La Caleta de Famara · Mozaga · Puerto del Carmen

TOUR 2: TIMANFAYA AND THE SOUTHERN BEACHES 28
Puerto del Carmen · San Bartolomé · Tinajo · La Santa · Montañas del Fuego · Yaiza · El Golfo · Playa Blanca · Papagayo · Femés · La Geria Valley · San Bartolomé · Puerto del Carmen

TOUR 3: A DAY OUT ON FUERTEVENTURA 37
Playa Blanca · Corralejo · Dunes Natural Park · (Puerto del Rosario) · Caleta de Fuste · Antigua · Tuineje · Pájara · Puerto de la Peña · Betancuria · La Oliva · (El Cotillo) · Lajares · Corralejo · Playa Blanca

WALKING
Guides, waymarking, maps 45
Where to stay 45
What to take 46
Weather 46
Nuisances 47
Spanish for walkers and motorists 48
Organisation of the walks 49
The Walks
1 Around La Graciosa 50
2 Risco de Famara 54
3 From Máguez to Ye 59
4 Máguez · Guinate · Máguez 62
5 Around Haría 66
6 Mala · Ermita de las Nieves · Teguise 70
7 Mancha Blanca · Playa de la Madera · Tinajo 76
8 Uga · Montaña de Guardilama · Mácher · Puerto del Carmen 80
9 Yaiza · Atalaya de Femés · Yaiza 85
10 Three barrancos: a circuit from Femés 89
11 Playa Blanca · Playa de Papagayo · Barranco Parrado · Femés 96
12 Montaña Roja 100
13 La Hoya · El Convento · La Hoya 102
14 Montaña Corona (Costa Teguise) 108
15 Timanfaya – the Termesana route 110
16 Coastal walks 116
17 Around Lobos 119

Bus timetables 122
Ferry timetables 126
Index 127
Fold-out maps (with plan of Corralejo) inside back cover

Arrecife
town plan 8-9
Arrieta 19, 20, 21, 56-7, 72-3, 123
Atalaya de Femés 14, 35, 85, 88, 90-1, 93

Barranco see also Valle
de Chafariz 21, 24
de la Casita 90-1, 93
de la Higuera 89, 90-1, 92, 94, 95
de los Dises 14, 90-1, 92, 99
del Cuchillo 56-7, 67
del Quiquere 82-3, 84, 118
Parrado 90-1, 96, 99
Tenesía 56-7, 72-3

Caleta del Congrio 14, 90-1, 98
Castillo
de Santa Bárbara 13, 26, 72-3, 75
de las Coloradas 90-1, 96-7
Costa Teguise 28, 108, 109, 116, 122
Cueva de los Verdes 19, 22

Degollada del Portugués 14, 89, 90-1, 96, 97

El Bosquecillo 19, 26
El Convento 102, 104-5, 107
El Golfo 28, 33, 34, 112-3, 118
Charco de los Clicos 10-11, 33, 34
El Grifo 36
El Jable 30, 74
El Rubicón 34-5, 86-7, 90-1, 99, 104-5
Ermita
de las Nieves 12, 13, 25, 66, 70, 72-3, 74
de San José 13, 26, 72-3, 75

Faro de Pechiguera 101, 104-5, 116, 117
Femés 14, 28, 35, 85, 86-7, 88, 89, 90-1, 93, 95-6, 99, 123
Fuerteventura 37-44
Agua de Bueyes 39
Ajuy 40
Antigua 37-8
Betancuria 37, 41, 42, 43
Castillo de Fuste 37
Corralejo 37-8, 44, 119, town plan on touring map
Dunes Natural Park 37, 38
El Cotillo 37, 43
Lajares 37, 43-4
La Oliva 37, 38, 43
Llanos de la Concepción 42
Pájara 37, 39
Presa de las Peñitas 40
Puerto de la Peña 37, 40
Puerto del Rosario 37-8
Tefía 42
Tindaya 42
Tiscamanita 39, 44
Toto 39
Tuineje 37, 39
Valle de Santa Inés 42
Valles de Ortega 39, 44
Vega de Río de Palmas 41

Guatiza 19, 72-3
Guinate 24, 56-7, 62-3, 65

Hacha Grande 14, 90-1, 92, 96
Haría 1, 12, 15, 18, 19, 24, 25, 54, 56-7, 66-7, 68-9, 72-3, 123

Islote de Hilario 31

Jameos del Agua 19, 21, 22
Janubio see Salinas de Janubio
Jardín de Cactus 20

La Asomada 82-3, 123
La Caleta de Famara 19, 26, 54, 72-3, 124
La Degollada 88
La Geria 14, 16-17, 28-9, 36, 80, 82-3
La Graciosa 11, 15, 22, 50, 51, 53, 63, 126
Caleta del Sebo 50, 53, 126
Montaña Bermeja 53
Pedro Barba 50, 53
Playa de las Conchas 51, 53
Playa del Ambar, 50, 53
La Hoya 34, 102, 104-5, 107, 117
La Quemada (near Máguez) 64
La Quemada (near Orzola) 22, 56-7, 60
La Santa 28, 30, 124
Las Breñas 35, 90-1, 104-5
Lobos 14, 119, 120-1, 121
Los Ajaches 34-5, 90-1
Los Helechos 56-7, 62, 63, 64
Los Hervideros 34, cover
Los Valles 26, 124

Mácher 80, 82-3, 84
Máguez 12, 18, 24, 54, 56-7, 58-9, 62-3, 65, 123
Mala 21, 70, 71, 72-3
Malpais de la Corona 22, 56-7
Mancha Blanca 30, 36, 76-7, 78-9, 110
Masdache 36
Mirador del Río 11, 15, 19, 23, 50, 56-7
Montaña see also Monte, Pico
Bermeja (near El Golfo) 33, 35
Bermeja (near La Santa) 30
Blanca 19, 29, 76-7, 124
Corona 108, 109, 109
de Guanapay 13, 26, 72-3, 75
de Guardilama 13, 80, 82-3, 84
de Tenezar 77, 78-9
Encantada 112-3, 114
Ganada 56-7, 67, 72-3
Mina 19, 29
Roja 14, 100-1, 104-5
Termesana 110-1, 112-3, 114-5
Montañas del Fuego 28-9, 80, 110-1, 112-3, 114-5
Monte Corona 12, 22, 56-7, 59, 60-1
Monumento al Campesino 4, 27, 29
Mozaga 19, 27, 30

Orzola 11, 19, 22, 50, 116-7, 124, 126

Parque Eólico 21, 26, 72-3
Peñas del Chache 25, 66, 72-3
Pico see also Montaña
de la Aceituna 90-1, 92, 94
de las Nieves 12, 13
Redondo 90-1, 92, 99
Playa
de Famara 54, 72-3
de Janubio 103, 104-5, 107
de Papagayo 13, 14, 28, 35, 89, 90-1, 96, 98
del Pozo 90-1, 97
del Risco 54, 56-7
de la Madera 76, 78, 79, 78-9, 118
de las Coloradas 90-1, 97
Mujeres 90-1, 97
Playa Blanca 14, 28, 34, 37, 86-7, 89, 90-1, 96-7, 100, 104-5, 119, 123, 126
town plan 8-9
Playa Honda 123
Playa Quemada 82-3, 89, 90-1, 117
Puerto del Carmen 19, 27-8, 36, 80, 82-3, 84, 89, 117, 118, 122-3, 126
town plan 6-7
Punta
de Mujeres 21
de Papagayo 14, 90-1, 98
de Pechiguera 90-1, 101, 104-5, 116, 117
de Puerto Muelas 35, 90-1
Fariones 16

Risco de Famara 11, 23, 26, 54, 55, 56-7, 72-3
Ruta de los Volcanes 31, 112-3

Salinas de Janubio 14, 34, 102, 104-5, 106-7, 118
Salinas de Berrugo 90-1, 104-5
Salinas del Río 55, 56-7, 58
San Bartolomé 27, 28-9, 36, 124
Sóo 26, 124

Tabayesco 21, 72-3
Tahiche 19, 20
Tao 30
Teguise 13, 19, 26, 27, 66, 70, 72-3, 74-5, 124
Tiagua 27, 30, 124
Tías 24
Timanfaya National Park 16-7, 28-9, 30, 31, 32, 80, 110-1, 112-3, 114-5, 118
Tinajo 28, 30, 76, 78-9, 124
Torrecilla de Domingo 22, 56-7, 60

Uga 13, 36, 80-1, 82-3, 88
Urbanización Famara 54, 72-3

Valle see also Barranco
de los Castillejos 12, 56-7, 67
del Palomo 70, 71, 72-3
del Rincón 56-7, 66, 68

Yaiza 28, 32-3, 85, 86-7, 88
Ye 23, 54, 56-7, 59, 61, 123

Lanzarote, 4th edition (2007); Updated 17/03/2011

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) on Lanzarote given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

NB: ALL OF THE COMMENTS WHICH FOLLOW HAVE BEEN RECEIVED IN THE PAST FROM USERS – WAYS TO EXTEND OR VARY WALKS AND TOURS. THEY ARE NOT CORRECTIONS TO THE CURRENT EDITION.

PR WALKS (day walks)
In Teguise, as in other villages, there are notice boards with a number of local walks which are worth considering. Check these out. It is possible to walk from Costa Teguise to Teguise or on to Famara on old ‘roadways’. These are shown on local maps available in tourist information centres. The route is shown as a single thin black line and is easily followed on the ground. One passes through Teguise. A good day out walking from either direction going from coast to coast. (User, 3/11)

Walk 4: Many, many thanks to Noel for a terrific walkers’ guide: one of the prime reasons for a very likely return visit to the island. We hit Walk 4 (Maguez-Guinate-Maguez) a week ago, just a fortnight after a period of healthy rainfall. The whole of the hard surfaced part of the climb had borders of wild flowers. As soon as the road turned into track, and particularly on the approach to the green wicket gate, the wild flowers turned into a carpet to match Joseph’s many coloured dream coat. No rubbish in Pescona or any of the craters ­ the ajuntamento seems to have both read and acted on your concealed appeal. There is however a path to the trig point. Once you top the hill after passing the small white building (all as per the book description), a series of ruined walls can be seen in the well of the valley separating la Quemada and los Helechos. To the left of these walls, a clearly visible path/goat track (?) climbs gently up the side of the crater, joining the wider track that leads back (to the right) along the crater ridge to the trig point. Instead of returning to the fairy circle of cone-shaped antennae to rejoin the track, head CLOCKWISE from the trig point, following the clear, wide and safe ridge path. (There is no obvious path in the anti-clockwise direction.) Continue beyond the junction with the goat track ­ great views into the crater, with much walled cultivation filling its floor.. The path described in the book is clearly in view to one’s left as it edges towards meeting the ridge track. This descends gradually, heading eventually through a double walled, narrow tree- lined avenue that finally runs between two stone gateposts to join up with the book track within 100 metres of reaching the Guinate crossover point. Spotted flycatchers and kestrels accompanied us on our walk, tho’ the gold medal went to the Griffon Vulture that showed off its gliding skills atop Moña Roca the next day. (User, 1/13)

Walk 5: Variation: Just ENE of Haria, follow a track up to a “hill” and you will come to a charming little plateau, with a donkey, camel and some children, just a few houses. We found this a very special place. From there it is a relatively steep descent (from next to a water reservoir?) down to the Haria-Maguez road, from where you can take an OLD PATH (not shown on your map) down to Arieta. We used this path a lot. (User)

Walk 6, a variation: We did this walk from Teguise and made it into a circuit (allow 16km/4h30min; see map pages 72-73). Park at the stadium on the eastern outskirts of Teguise. You are heading out towards the Ermita de San José. Soon you leave the tarmac. It is about 2min to a weight restriction sign facing the opposite direction, the return track (Main Walk 6) is on your right. Ignore the track on the left going up hill. At a fork (7min), bear right. This takes you to the ruins of the Ermita de San JosÈ on your right. Very soon after there is a crossing of tracks, go straight ahead, up the hill heading northeast (not marked in colour on your map); this is a lovely old stone mule trail (but it would be hard to find it walking in the direction the book suggests, as it’s very obscure at its top end). There is an army telecommunications centre just south of the Ermita de las Nieves, which we reached in 2h15min. Leaving the ermita, we followed the asphalt road towards the LZ-10 for 10 minutes. On the first sharp left-hand bend we took the clear track going straight ahead. Continue on this track for about 30min. Passing under cables, five minutes later the track splits three ways, take the left hand and zigzag down into Los Valles. (3h10min), where we turned right past the sports complex. At a 3-way road junction, where the LZ-10 is ahead (left), we turned sharp right and passed a small church and school on the right. We followed this road for 15 minutes, through two sets of crossroads and eventually up a short incline out of Los Valles. There are cinder fields either side and the odd house. Pass the last farmhouse on the left, with animal sheds and noisy, chained dogs (3h25min), we ignored a track going left up to the top of the small hill. We were hoping to join the track out of Los Valles shown on your map, but it does not connect as drawn. In order to continue, we had to carry on cross-country with no path, but it was easy. To do this, note that you are on a right-hand bend in the asphalt road. Look down into the valley before you and locate a ruined farm surrounded by palms. Just before and to the right of that farm, note a faint grassy track with walls either side. Scramble down the open hillside to that track (3h 30min). We passed the farm ruins on our left and followed the track diagonally up the side of the hill on our right. (The walking is easier underfoot if you go above and to the right of the track, as there has been some erosion in parts, but do not lose the track halfway up the hill.) The track becomes rocky and joins a track coming from the left at some cultivation (3h 55min). This track is easier underfoot. We passed two buildings and joined the main jeep track down from the Ermita de las Nieves to Teguise (the 6hr-point on Walk 6). We followed this track back to the stadium (4h30min). (User 9/99, updated by another user 10/06)

Walk 10: Here’s an alternative loop walk based on Walk 10 (4hrs 10min). Park at Playa Quemada. Take the coastal path to Barranco de la Higuera (40min), note the return path, waymarked yellow, coming in on your right. Continue on the coastal path until the purple waymark on the right signals the ascent up Morro de la Loma de Pozo (1hr 15min). At about 2hrs, you reach the out and back from the main walk. Follow the main walk down into the Barranco de la Higuera until you pick up Alternative 1, waymarked yellow, to take you back down the barranco to the sea and back along the coastal path to Playa Quemada. (User, 11/06)

Coastal Walks, Los Cocoteros to Costa Teguise: No need for a taxi to the salt pans. The line 9 bus from Arrecife at 10.30am towards Orzola will drop you at the bus stop in Guatiza and then it is a simple walk down the road (little traffic) to Los Cocoteros to start the coastal path. I actually stayed on the bus to visit the JardÌn de Cactus before walking the half mile or so back along the very wide grass verge to Guatiza. (User, 4/09)

New walk suggestion: Tabayesco – Valle de Chafariz (see touring map) or Valle del Cuchillo (see map pages 72-73) 12km/3h30min. As we are fast walkers, add 25% to these walking times. This walk starts at Tabayesco and goes through this delightfully lush and fertile valley, using an old mule trail to join the Haria road (LZ-10, link with Walk 5). From there the main walk continues up the mule trail to the mirador above the Restaurante los Helechos (link with Walk 6). It then follows the ridge between the valleys of the Cuchillo and Palomo to a beautiful picnic site 30min off Car tour 1. From there a cross-country stretch could take you down through terraces to join Walk 6 in reverse to end in Mala. The main walk continues along the ridge. A final cross- country stretch takes you back into Tabayesco to complete the circuit. Park at the bus shelter at the entrance to Tabayesco (or catch the bus from Arrecife: Timetable 6 (Tabayesco is just before Arrieta and after Mala on this route). Start out by taking the lower (right) road at the junction by the bus shelter, leading into the village. Ignore Calle la Luciana leading left up to the church. At the end of the village (7min) the road becomes a wide dirt track leading up the valley. The Restaurante los Helechos is already visible on the hilltop ahead and slightly to the left. Every bit of cultivatable land is being used for fruit, vines, vegetables or just animal food in this valley; it was very green and refreshing in spring. We were even regaled by a nightingale in April, although the most common bird was the house bunting (an African bird similar to a small hedge sparrow but more musical). Ignore tracks going off either side to fields or houses, and at 32min reach a major split in the tracks. The left hand track is the return route for the short walk. Take the right- hand track, continuing to ignore small tracks leaving this main track, which is always obvious, heading straight up to the top of the valley. At 40min, just after passing tracks going off either side (the one to the left to a small house), come to a T-junction. Restaurante los Helechos is off to the left. The short walk goes left here. The main walk goes right on a track which soon degenerates into a path. This path, very unusually for Lanzarote, wades through waist-high grass in parts, and you need to dodge the odd cow pat. It affords fabulous views down the valley. You reach a stone-laid mule trail, clearly marked by red paint dots and/or cairns. Follow the zigzags and the going is easy. In a further 10 minutes you reach the top. Here you meet a track and, turning left for 100m, you come to an asphalt road (lh). The junction with the LZ-10 is a further 50m to the right. Look down here into the Haria and Maguez valleys and see the Risco de Famara (Walk 5) ahead. A track directly opposite would take you into Haria in 10 minutes if you wished. But continue along the road to the left (carefully) for 5 minutes. Less than 150m beyond the 20km marker, head left uphill on a mule trail (lh07min). This lovely trail (Walk 5 in reverse) leads you easily up past the hairpins on the road, passing the Mirador de Haria (lh28min), with wonderful views down the valley through which you have just walked. After two more crossings, including one close to the Restaurante los Helechos, you meet a track. You are now above the restaurant. Turn left on this track, parallel to the LZ-10 below you at the km17 marker. The military base at Peñas del Cache is ahead/right and, as you meet another road leading to the Ermita de las Nieves, note a roadside parking bay and mirador to your left on the LZ10. Go to this mirador (1h40min). You have walked almost from sea level at Tabayesco to the highest point on the island, and the fabulous views are great reward. You can see the restaurant on your left, with Montana Corona beyond; behind you is Peñas del Cache and the Ermita de las Nieves; in front is the Valle de Chafariz/Cuchillo with Tabayesco and the coast at Arrieta beyond; to the right is the ridge separating this valley from the Valle del Palomo (Walk 6). Along this ridge, note a track which begins near some palm trees on your right some 200m away. This is your onward route. Turn right along the LZ10 and walk carefully to meet this track. Just after the last roadside palm, 100m after the 16km marker and just past a house on the left, take the track which initially runs parallel to the road on the left. It then turns away from the road, heading towards the ridge you saw. Pass between potato fields and, as the ridge narrows, you start to see the Palomo Valley on your right as well as the Cuchillo/Chafariz Valley on your left. The track up the Palomo Valley used in Walk 6 is now clearly visible. At 1h56min the track forks. The left fork goes to a house; take the right fork, heading out along the ridge. Pass a ruined house, then a new rectangular building. Just after this new building there are some more substantial ruins on your right (2h10min), just invisible from the track. This is a beautiful picnic spot with far-reaching views over the Palomo Valley, and is less than 30 minutes’ easy walk from the car tour. It is possible to link up with Walk 6 here and end the walk in Mala by following Walk 6 in reverse. The outward track used in Walk 6 is clearly visible below you, an although there is no path down to it, the route through these abandoned terraces cross-country is easily negotiable in 15 minutes. This would allow you to join the track in the ‘verdant valley’ near the barranco crossings at approximately the 2h-point on that walk. Continuing the main walk along the ridge, ignore a right fork going up to some terraces about 5 minutes past the ruins, and at 2h25min go through a gap in the rocks and reach potato fields on either side. Here the good track deteriorates and becomes very indistinct. From here you need to head cross-country to leave the ridge and head down to Tabayesco. The walking is not difficult, and navigation could not be easier. Locate Arrieta on the coast (the first village you can see – the further one is Punta de Mujeres). Head towards Arrieta, down this gradual slope, picking your way through the eroded parts carefully. Soon you will see the ruins of a house, which you should reach at about 2h40min. From the ruins, still heading down towards Arrieta, locate a rocky knoll. You can pass either side of this knoll, but the slope is much more gentle to the right of it. Just pick your way down through these abandoned terraces, making for the asphalt road now clearly visible below you. Reach the road at 3h10min. Tabayesco is clearly visible to the right. Reach the village and your car at 3h30min.

Short version (5km/1h35min): Follow the notes above to the 40min-point. Take the left turn at this T-junction. This track soon becomes a grassy path as it sweeps round above your outward route. The view of the valley is wonderful all the way to Arrieta on the coast as the path passes between cultivated terraces. At 47min reach the asphalt road. Turn left and walk down this quiet road for 7 minutes. Cross a barranco on a bridge and immediately after take the clear track going left. This track gives you a real feel for the valley as it passes through vineyards and fruit orchards, and is lined with palm trees. At lh04min reach a junction (the 32min-point on your outward route). Turn right and retrace your outward route back to Tabayesco (1h35min). (Walk suggested by John and Christine Oldfield, authors of Andalucía and the Costa del Sol and Costa Blanca, 8/99)

NEW WALK SUGGESTION (near Walk 7): Playa Teneza – Playa de la Madera – Playa Teneza
Allow 4h; Access: by private car take the tar sealed road from Tinajo tcwards Playa de la Madera and remain on this road when it turns right just before the rough red track which leads to Playa de la Madera. The road ends shortly at playa Teneza (not named on the touring map).

Walk: Playa Teneza is a delightful picnic spot. Start out by following the wide sandy path going west towards Playa de la Madera. Soon the path wends its way through the lava but is well defined, although later, after passing across a wide beach, the path is less clear but is easily followed by keeping fairly close to the coast. Eventually the path joins the track leading frorn Playa de la Madera back to the sealed road to Playa Teneza. This coastal walk is very rewarding for the opportunity to see wonderful lava flows and formations as well as some excellent examples of islotes. (User, 6/00) + This walk was wonderful, but took us 4h30min, not 4h, without stops. Boots (and strong ankles!) are really essential, as you are clambering over uneven lava for a good 2h30min. (User, 12/03)

NEW CIRCUIT FROM LA CALETA DE FAMARA
By car drive west through the centre La Caleta and out along the unmade (dual carriageway) road to the beach. Park at the beach. There is a firm track in the sand at the top of the beach going west. Follow this until a high mound crosses running from the seashore inland. On the far side of the mound is a wide track. Follow this. Eventually it deteriorates into a rough track which clearly climbs the side of a first volcano. Continue to the top (steepish) – the way is obvious although the path disappears.

From the rim there is a terrific view of the Famara cliffs, especially impressive in morning light. Looking down into the crater we were amazed to see two concentric oval tracks which looked rather like overgrown running tracks. At one end is a man- made tunnel which we didn’t explore. From the top you can pick out a T-junction in the tracks below. Continue round the rim to a depressed section where a path goes down to the plain. Cross scrub to the T-junction and take the clear track heading west to the next volcano. Follow the track right to the top of the volcano and round the rim where it eventually descends back towards the direction you came in. However the track does a U-turn and you continue to follow it westwards. At the base of the hill the track has been obscured by sand but can be picked up in the direction of the third volcano.

Follow this path as it reaches and then skirts the hill. The path is very clear and leads uphill to the fourth and final volcano which is the one north of Soo. A track leads to the edge of the crater, where a short but steep climb (no path) takes you to the northern rim and the most fantastic view of the mountains of the National Park, of Santa and right round to Famara. Rejoin the track and turn towards the sea which it eventually reaches. Turn right and the track goes all the way back to Caleta. However it is easy to walk along the top of the beach more or less along the survey markers and enjoy the lovely breaking waves (User, 1/04)

OTHER SUGGESTION: On clear days, Montaña Blanca near San Bartolomé offers the best views over the whole island. You can climb it from the Tias/San Bartolomé road, about 3km fromTias – on the left some 100m beyond the pass. Ascent about 1h30min. (User, 4/04)