This guide book, half of a two-volume set, is intended for motorists who want to tour eastern Provence and the Côte d’Azur by car and enjoy some superb walks en route. The drives have been described in such detail that there is no need to make constant reference to a map. The walks selected — all set in areas of great natural beauty and historical interest — are those the authors believe offer the greatest sense of satisfaction for the effort involved. These are not tough GR routes, but mostly circular walks suitable for moderately fit people. There are also restaurant recommendations for each tour.

Area covered: Beginning at Nice and the Riviera, you head north and west through the Alpes-Maritimes and Alpes de Haute-Provence (highlights include the Mercantour National Park, Grand Canyon du Verdon and a journey on the Train des Pignes). Beyond Var, with its unspoilt coast, the book takes you round the Montagne Ste-Victoire to Aix-en-Provence.

Best months for walking: generally March to June and September and October, but walks on the Côte d’Azur can be enjoyed throughout the winter months.

As an introduction to the whole of eastern Provence, the book covers a lot of ground; good touring/walking bases are suggested at the start of each drive.

10 car tours, 50 long and short walks, 41 picnic suggestions
184 pages + 2 touring maps (to cover all of Provence); 1:50,000 topo maps
2nd ed, 2009; ISBN 978-1-85691-361-4; UK retail price £14.99 / USA retail price $19.99

Table of contents:

Preface 5
Bibliography 6

Picnicking 8
A country code for walkers and motorists 8

Touring 9
Car tour 1: THE CORNICHE D’OR AND THE ESTEREL 11
A circular tour of 174km beginning and ending at Nice
Car tour 2: THE RIVIERA AND THE MERCANTOUR 15
A tour of 216km beginning at Nice and ending
at St-Martin-Vésubie
Car tour 3: UTELLE AND THE GORGES DU LOUP 22
A tour of 200km beginning at St-Martin-Vésubie and ending at Thorenc
Car tour 4: IN NAPOLEON’S FOOTSTEPS 26
A circular tour of 203km beginning and ending at Thorenc
Car tour 5: LAC D’ALLOS 30
A tour of 123km beginning at Thorenc and ending at Colmars
Car tour 6: GORGES DU CIANS 33
A tour of 181km beginning at Colmars and ending at Thorenc
Car tour 7: RIFTS AND RIVER VALLEYS 37
A tour of 176km beginning at Thorenc and ending at Aups
Car tour 8: GRAND CANYON DU VERDON 43
A circular tour of 162km beginning and ending at Aups
Car tour 9: THE MAURES 50
A circular tour of 243km beginning and ending at Aups
Car tour 10: LA MONTAGNE STE-VICTOIRE 56
A tour of 164km beginning at Aups and ending at Aix-en-Provence

Walking 61
Weather; What to take; Nuisances; Waymarking,
grading, safety; Maps

WALKS
1 On the rooftops of Nice 64
2 Mont Chauve d’Aspremont 66
3 Peille and Peillon 68
4 Around Cap Ferrat 70
5 Ravin du Mal Infernet 72
6 Circuit above Théoule-sur-Mer 74
7 Cap du Dramont 76
8 From La Turbie to Eze-Bord-de-Mer 77
9 From Ste-Agnès to Castellar 79
10 Cap Martin 81
11 Above Sospel 82
12 Cime de l’Arpiha 84
13 Lac de Trécolpas and Refuge de la Cougourde 85
14 Col de Fenestre and Pas des Ladres 88
15 Cime du Pisset 90
16 Cascade de l’Estrech 91
17 Circuit from Gourdon 93
18 Castellaras 95
19 Source de la Siagnole 96
20 Gorges du Blavet 98
21 Gorges de la Siagne 99
22 Séranon and the Bauroux ridge 101
23 Lac d’Allos 103
24 Above Beuil 105
25 Above Puget-Théniers 107
26 Grès d’Annot 109
27 Aiglun and the Esteron River 111
28 Ville 113
29 Circuit around Comps-sur-Artuby 114
30 Above Tourtour 115
31 Sentier Martel 117
32 Belvédère de Rancoumas 120
33 Chartreuse de la Verne 122
34 Cap Lardier 123
35 La Montagne Ste-Victoire 125
36 Lac Zola 128
Train des Pignes 130

Glossary 132
Index 134
Touring map/transport information inside back cover

Agay 12, 74
Aiglun 37, 38, 111, 111, 112
Clue d’Aiglun 38
Aiguille, Pointe de l’ 11, 74-5
Aiguines 43, 49
Aix-en-Provence 56, 60
Alban, Mont 64, 65
Allos 32
Lac d’Allos 30, 32, 103, 104
Ampus 42
Andon 26
Annot 33, 35, 109, 110, 131
Grès d’Annot 35, 109, 110
Anthéor 12
Antibes 11
Cap d’Antibes 11
Arpiha, Cime de l’ 84, 84
Artuby (river) 46-7, 48, 114
Pont de l’Artuby 48
Aspremont 66, 67
Mont Chauve d’Aspremont 66, 67
Audibergue, Montagne de l’ 25, 27
Aups 37, 42, 43, 49, 50, 55, 56, 57
Aurafort, Crête d’ 107, 108, 133
Aurelle, Pic d’ 12
Authion, l’ 15, 21
Bagnols-en-Forêt 26, 28, 98
Bar-sur-Loup, Le 25, 93
Bargemon 26, 28
Baudinard-sur-Verdon 57
Bauduen 56
Baume aux Pigeons 117, 118-9
Bauroux (mountain) 27, 100, 101, 102
Bayonne, Castel de 98
Beaulieu 70
Beauvezer 31
Belle-Barbe, Col de 13, 72, 73, 74-5
Belvédère 20
Besse-sur-Issole 50, 55
Beuil 33, 34, 105, 106
Bévéra (river) 14-5, 18, 81
Bézaudun-les-Alpes 24
Bimont, Lac de (Barrage de) 56, 58, 128-9
Blavet, Gorges du 26, 28, 98, 98
Bleine, Col de 37
Bollène-Vésubie, La 15, 18, 19
Boréon, Le 15, 20, 85, 87, 88, 89
Boron, Mont 64, 65, 65
Bouyon 24
Brèche Imbert 117, 118, 118-9
Briançonnet 39
Broc, Le 23
Cabasse 55
Cabassols, Les 58, 125, 128-9
Cabbé 81
Cadière, Col de la 13
Cadières de Brandis 6-7, 41
Caille 27, 100, 101, 102
Calern, Plateau de 22, 25
Callas 28
Callian 27, 29
Camp Long 76
Canjuers, Plan de 42, 48
Cannes 11
Carcès 50, 55
Lac de Carcès 55
Carejuan, Clue de 43, 47
Carnoules 55
Carros Village 23
Castagnet, Le (cliffs) 34, 108
Castellane 30, 37, 40
Castellar 79, 80
Castellaras, Le 22, 26, 95, 95
Col de Castellaras 26
Castillon 18
Col de Castillon 18
Castillon, Lac de 30, 36, 37, 40, 113, 113
Caussols 25
Cavaliers, Les 48
Cézanne, Route 56, 59-60
Chadoulin (stream) 32, 103, 104
Chambre du Roi 109, 131
Champs, Col des 33
Chartreuse de la Verne 53, 122, 122
Chasteuil, Clue de 6-7, 39, 41, 48
Châtaigniers, Les 19
Châteaudouble 42
Gorges de Châteaudouble 42
Châteauneuf-Pré-du-Lac 25
Chaudanne, Lac de 30, 40
Chieron (mountain) 25
Cians, Gorges du 33, 34, 35
river 105, 106
Cipières 24
Claps, Les 25
Cogolin 53
Colle Rousse 98, 98
Collobrières 50, 54-5
Collongues 39
Colmars 30, 31, 32, 33
Colomars 131
Comps-sur-Artuby 37, 40-1, 114
Corniche d’Or 11-14, 12
Corniche Inférieure 77, 78
Corniche Sublime 48
Cotignac 55
Cougourde, La (and refuge) 85, 86, 87, 89
Countet, Pont du 15, 21, 91, 91, 92
Courmes, Cascade de 24, 25
Coursegoules 22, 24
Croix-Valmer, La 50, 53
Daluis, Gorges de 34
Demandolx 30, 40, 113
Digne 131
Doudon, Aqueduc de 128-9
Dramont, Cap du 12, 76, 76
Entrevaux 33, 35, 36, 131
Esparron 57
Escragnolles 29
Esquillon, Pointe de l’ 11, 74-5
Esterel, Massif de l’ 11, 12, 73, 74-5, 75
Esteron (river) 23, 38, 111, 111, 112
Estrech, Cascade de l’ 91, 92
Evêque, Col de l’ 12, 13
Eze 77, 78
Eze, Belvédère d’, Col d’ 16
Eze-Bord-de-Mer 77, 78
Faye, Pas de la 29
Fayence 26, 27
Fenestre, Col de 88, 89
Lac de 88, 89
See also Madone de Fenestre
Ferrat, Cap 70, 71, 71
Fil, Vallon du 27
Font-Gaillarde 30, 31
Foulon, Aqueduc du 93
Galetas, Pont de 43
Garde-Freinet, La 50, 51, 53
Gélas (mountain) 8-9, 20, 88
Gerle 56, 58
Gigaro 50, 53
Gilette 23
Gordolasque, Vallon de la 15, 20, 91, 91, 92
Gourdon 22, 25, 93, 94
Grande Corniche 16, 77, 78
Gréolières 22, 25
Grimaldi, Tour de 115
Grimaud 51
Guillaumes 34
Issole (river) 31
Jabron 41
Jabron (river) 41, 47
Jouques 58
Juan-les-Pins 11
Lachens, Montagne de 26, 27
Ladres, Pas des 85, 86-7, 88, 89
Lane (river) 29
Lantosque 22
Lardier, Cap 53, 123, 124
Launes, Les 34
Lentisques, Col de 12, 13
Logis-du-Pin, Le 29
Lorgues 50, 51
Loup (river) 24, 102
Aqueduc du Loup 93
Gorges du Loup 22, 24
Pont-du-Loup 25
Saut du Loup 24
Madone de Fenestre 8-9, 15, 20, 85, 88, 89, 90
Madone d’Utelle 22, 23
Malamaire 30
Malay, Montagne de 27
Maline, Chalet de la 46, 117, 118-9
Mal Infernet, Ravin du 72, 73, 74-5
Martel, Sentier 117, 118, 118-9
Martin, Cap 17, 81, 81
Maures, Massif des 50-5
Menton 15, 17, 81
Mercantour, Parc National du 8-9, 18, 20-1, 32, 85-92, 86-7, 90, 91, 92, 104
Merveilles, Vallée des 21, 91
Mescla, La 46-7, 48, 119
Miramar 11
Monaco 17
Mons 26, 27, 96, 97
Montferrat 42
Monti 17, 79, 80
Montmeyan 42
Moulières, Les 115, 116
Moulins, Les (near Bouyon) 24
(near Mons) 96, 97
Moustiers-Ste-Marie 43, 44, 57
Moyenne Corniche 77, 78
Mure, La 31
Napoléon, Route 26, 29, 40, 101, cover
Napoule, La 11
Golfe de La Napoule 11, 12
Nartuby (river) 42
Neigler, Mont 91, 92
Nice 11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 64, 65, 65, 131
Nice, Refuge de 91
Notre-Dame (chapel) 28
Notre-Dame-de-Gratemoine 26, 29, 100, 101, cover
Notre-Dame-de-l’Ormeau 28
Notre-Dame-de-la-Menour 15, 18
Notre-Dame-de-Valvert 32, 33, 36
Notre-Dame-de-Vers-la-Ville 109, 110
Notre-Dame-des-Anges 52, 54
Ours, Pic de l’ 72, 74-5
Paillas, Moulins de 52
Palud-sur-Verdon, La 45, 46
Paradis, Chemin du 93, 94
Peille 68, 69
Peillon 68, 69, 69
Peïrastrèche, Pont de 85, 87, 89
Pélat, Mont 32, 103
Pennafort, Gorges de 26, 28
Piaon, Gorges du 18
Pignes, Train des 31, 130, 131
Pins Blancs, Les 124
Plan-du-Var 23, 131
Point-Sublime 47, 118-9, 120, 121
Port-la-Galère 11, 74-5, 75
Portes, Col des 56, 59
Pourrières 56, 59
Pra-d’Astier 34
Prannes, Bois de 37, 42
Puget-Théniers 33, 34, 107, 108, 131, 133
Puncha, La 20, 89, 90
Puyloubier 59
Ramatuelle 52
Rancoumas, Belvédère de 118-9, 120, 121
Ray, Cascade du 21
Rians 56, 58
Riolan, Clue du 39
Pont du Riolan 38
Riviera 15-7
Robion (mountain) 48, 114
Roche Taillée 27, 96, 97, 133
Roquebillière 19, 20
Roquebrune-Cap-Martin 17, 81
Rouaine 35
Clue de Rouaine 35
Route des Crêtes (Canyon du Verdon) 2, 45-6, 46, 47, 118-9
Roux, Cap 13, 73, 74-5, 76
Pointe du Cap Roux 11
St-André-les-Alpes 30, 31, 131
St-Auban, Clue de 37, 38, 39, 132
St-Brès 34
St-Cézaire-sur-Siagne 26, 29, 99, 100
Grottes de St-Cézaire 29
St-Ginié (chapel) 105, 106
St-Grat 21, 92
St-Honorat (chapel) 19
St-Hospice, Pointe de 70, 71, 71
St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat 70, 71
St-Jean-la-Rivière 22
St-Julien-du-Verdon 30
St-Maimes, Col de 48
St-Martin-d’Entraunes 34
St-Martin-du-Var 131
St-Martin-Vésubie 15, 19, 20, 21, 22, 88
St-Paul-en-Forêt 29
St-Peire (chapel) 96, 97, 97
St-Pierre-de-Tourtour 42
St-Pons 24
St-Vallier-de-Thiey 26, 29
Ste-Agnès 79
Ste-Baume, Site de la 12
Ste-Croix, Lac de (Barrage de) 43, 56, 57
Ste-Victoire, La Montagne 4-5, 56, 58, 59, 60, 125, 126-7, 128-9
Salles, Les 43
Samson, Couloir 47, 117, 118-9
Sausses, Les 38
Saut des Français 23
Scaffarels, Les 35, 109, 110
Seillans 28
Séranon 29, 100, 101, 102, cover
Vieux 100, 101
Siagne, Gorges de la 29, 99, 100
Canal de la 99, 100
Siagnole, Sources de la 96, 97, 97
Sigale 37, 39, 112
Sillans-le-Cascade 55
Soleilhas 39
Soleils 41, 47
Pont de Soleils 41, 47
Sospel 14-5, 18, 81, 83
Tavernes 10, 56, 57
Théoule-sur-Mer 11, 74-5
Tholonet, Le 56, 60, 128-9
Thorame-Haut-Gare 31, 131
Thorenc 22, 25, 26, 29, 30, 33, 36, 37, 95
Thoronet, Abbaye du 55
Tourtour 37, 42, 115, 116
Toutes Aures, Col de 35
Trayas, Le 11
Trécolpas, Lac de 85, 86-7, 88, 89
Trescaïres, Les 44, 46, 118-9
Trigance 41, 45, 47
Turbie, La 16, 77
Turini, Col de 15, 18, 19, 21, 84
Tusset, Pont du 43, 118-9, 120, 121
Tuves, Pont des 99, 100
Utelle 22
See also Madone d’Utelle
Valberg 34
Col de Valberg 34
Valderoure 30
Valensole Plateau 49
Valescure 13
Valferrière, Col de 27, 29
Var (river) 107, 108, 109
Varages 57
Vascognes, Pont de 111, 111
Vauvenargues 58
Verdon (river) 6-7, 31, 37, 39, 41, 46-7, 117, 118-9, 120, 121
Verdon, Grand Canyon du 2, 43-49, 44, 46-7, 117, 118-9, 120, 121
Vergons 36
Clue de Vergons 36
Vésubie (river) 17, 18, 19
Gorges de la 17, 22, 23
Vidauban 50, 51
Vidron, Chalet 15, 85, 89
Villaron, Pont de 30, 31
Ville 33, 37, 40, 113
Villecroze 50
Villeneuve-d’Entraunes 34
Vinaigre, Mont 14
Vistaëro, Belvédère du 16
Zola (lake and dam) 58, 128-9, 129

Eastern Provence, 2nd edition (2009). Updated 19/11/2012

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) in eastern Provence and the Côte d’Azur given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

Walk 19: SOURCE DE LA SIAGNOLE: We were at Mons today and saw a local signboard “Roc Taille walk closed”. We thought bad weather/ rock fall cannot have affected ALL of it? Went down the D56 to Les Moulins – ALL 4 paths off D56 on upper & lower aqueducts now marked ACCES RESERVES AUX SEULES PERONNES AUTORISEES/ lower south path also gated & marked “service departmental des eaux du canal de la Siagnole acces dangereux”. No explanation or qualification – seems like the dead hand of “Health & Safety” bureaucracy, at a guess (however unlikely in France!) (e-mail, 4/10)

Walk 31: There is now a sign at the beginning of the path: the Sentier Martel is closed because for restoration till the end of 2011 and again from September 20. (User, 10/11)

Restaurants: In Nice, Café Promenade is now called Balthazar and is better than ever (but perhaps a bit more expensive). Aux Gourmets has closed. We now recommend Chez Freddy on Cours Saleya (www.chez-freddy.com) and Taverne Massena in the pedestrian zone (www.crescere.fr) – both are superb and you can see their full menus plus photos of their dishes on the websites shown! In Menton friends highly recomment Le Bruit Qui Court at the port (www.lebruitquicourt.fr).