Sardinia, the second largest island in the Meditarranean, is a countryside lover’s paradise. Touring Sardinia by car, you quickly leave all traces of tourism behind: the six car tours cover about 1600km (1000 miles). The tours are arranged in such a way that they can be combined, allowing you to tour round the whole island. As you tour, explore on foot: walking in Sardinia, crushing the fragrant Mediterranean macchia underfoot, will give you the real flavour of the island. Its scenic diversity ranges from rough and primeval landscapes to gentle golden sand dunes, from scorching rocky plateaux and windswept plains reminiscent of Africa to rolling hills with lush pastures and dense brushwood, from towering mountains cloaked in fine oak woods to a turquoise sea that touches the rocky coast. Colourful rock roses and an extravaganza of wild flowers flourish in spring.

Area covered: the whole island

The best months for walking in Sardinia are September to June

Bosa, Cala Gonone and Santa Maria Navarrese are ideal for those who prefer to be on the coast. If you’re looking for an inland location near the central Gennargentu massif, Aritzo, with its good hotels, is ideal. Note that public transport is limited — you will almost certainly need a hire car to reach most of the walks.

6 car tours, 37 Long and short walks, 16 picnic suggestions
136 pages + touring map; plans of Cagliari and Sassari; 1:50,000 topo maps
4th ed, 2010; ISBN 978-1-85691-283-6; UK retail price £12.99 / USA retail price $17.99

Table of contents:

Foreword 5
A word of thanks; Recommended books 6
Introduction 7
How to get there 7
Getting about on the island 7
Where to stay 8
Climate and time to travel 9
Language 9
Nuragic culture (1500-500 BC) 9
A geological overview 10
Flora 12
Picnic suggestions 14

TOURING
1 GALLURA AND ANGLONA 18
2 BARBAGIA AND GENNARGENTU 27
3 MARMILLA AND SARCIDANO 34
4 SULCIS AND IGLESIENTE 37
5 SINIS PENINSULA, MONTE FERRU AND LAGO OMODEO 41
6 LOGUDORO 46

WALKING
Waymarking, maps 53
What to take 53
Walkers’ checklist 54
Country code 55
Organisation of the walks 56

Gallura
1 Caprera 57
2 Monte Limbara 61

Supramonte
3 Maccione · Scala ‘e Pradu · Sos Ostis · Punta sos Nidos · Maccione 65
4 Ponte Sa Barva · Scala de Surtana · Sa Curtigia de Tiscali · Scala de Surtana · Ponte Sa Barva 68
5 SS125 · Valle di Oddoene · Flumineddu · Gola su Gorropu · SS125 72
6 Cala Gonone · Caletta Fuili · Cala di Luna 74
7 Genna Croce · Cuile Televai · Codula de sa Mela · Planu Campu Oddeu · Genna Croce 78
8 Urzulei · Riu Cottu · Urzulei 81
9 Chiesa San Pietro di Golgo · Su Sterru · As Piscinas · Annidai · Cala Goloritze · Chiesa San Pietro di Golgo 83
10 Baunei · Belvedere Vista Panoramica · Scaleddas · Genna Inter Montes · Santa Maria Navarrese 87

Barbagia/Gennargentu
11 Ascent of Punta la Marmora 91
12 Aritzo · Belvi · Stazione Desulo-Tonara · Belvi · Castagneto Geratzia · Aritzo 94
13 Aritzo · Monte Texile · Serra Genna Piccinnu · Cantoniera Cossatzu · Aritzo 99
14 Aritzo · Serra Santa Maria · Gadoni · Flumendosa · Casa Arangino · Perda ‘e Caddu · Serra Santa Maria · Aritzo 102
15 Through the Foresta Demaniale Montarbu to Monte Tonneri 105

Marmilla
16 Giara di Gesturi 108

Costa del Sud
17 Punta Pinnetta · Capo Spartivento · (Monte sa Guardia Manna) · Torre di Chia · Punta Pinnetta 112

Iglesiente
18 Grotta di San Giovanni · Punta San Michele · Case Marganai · Gutturu Farris · Grotta di San Giovanni 115
19 Torrente Leni · Riu d’Oridda · Gutturu is Abis · Riu d’Oridda · Punta Piscina Irgas · Riu Cannisoni · Torrente Leni 118
20 Tempio di Antas · Grotta su Mannau · Villagio Nuragico · Tempio di Antas · Cave Romane · Riu dello Spirito Santo · Tempio di Antas 122

Catena del Goceano
21 Ucc’ Aidu · Monte Rasu · Sa Melabrina · Sa Ucca ‘e Padronu · Fattoria Giannasi · Casa Pisanella · Caserma Forestale · Ucc’ Aidu 127

Nurra
22 Cantoniera Porto Conte · Punta del Giglio · Cantoniera Porto Conte 131

Web sites focussing on Sardinia 134
Glossary 134
Index 135
Fold-out touring map (with plans of Cagliari and Sassari) inside back cover

Aggius 14, 18, 24
Aguglia (rock) 84, 84
Aiodda (8) 36
Alghero 7, 46, 47, 52, 131
Anglona (region) 18
Annidai (ridge) 83, 84, 85
Arborea 37, 40
Arborea 40
Arbus 37, 40
Archipelago della Maddalena 19, 58
Arcu (pass): de Tascussi 28, 91; Genna Bogai 40
Ardara 46, 50
Aritzo 8, 27, 29, 94, 96-97, 98, 99, 102
Arzachena 18, 21
As Piscinas (pools) 83, 84, 84, 85
Barbagia (region) 15, 27
Barumini 34, 36
Baunei 15, 27, 32, 83, 87, 88
Bear Rock 19, cover
Belvi 29, 94, 95, 96-97
Bessude 50
Bonnanaro 46, 51
Bono 46, 49, 127
Bonorva 46, 47
Borutta 51
Bosa 9, 46, 47
Bottidda 46, 49
Bruncu Spina (mountain) 28, 91, 92-93
Bulzi 18, 23, 26
Burgos 46, 48
Busachi 41, 44
Cagliari 7, 37, 39; town plan 136
Cala (bay): Antonarieddu 114; di Luna 74, 75, 76; Goloritze 83, 84, 84, 86
Cala Gonone 2, 8, 27, 33, 74, 75
Calasetta 37, 38
Caletta Fuili (cove) 74, 75
Campidano (region) 45
Cannigione 19
Cantina Ferraris 118, 119, 121
Cantoniera see under Casa Cantoniera
Capo (cape): Caccia 131, 133, d’Orso 18, 19; Malfatano 38; Spartivento 37, 112-113
Caprera (island) 19, 57, 58
Carbonia 38
Casa (house): Arangino 96-97, 102, 104; Garibaldi 58, 60; Pisanella 127, 128-129
Casa Cantoniera (road keepers’ building): Arcueri 30; Bidicolai 32, 72; Cossatzu 29, 96-97, 99, 101; Gennauassa 29; Noce Secca 72; Porto Conte 131, 132
Case (houses) Marganai 114, 115, 116
Castagneto Geratzia (chestnut grove) 94, 96-97
Castello (castle): dei Doria 14; di Balaiana 23; di Monte Ferru (Etzu) 42; di Serravalle 47
Castelsardo 18, 26
Catena del Goceano (massif) 48, 49, 127, 128-129, 130
Chia 37, 112-113
Chiaramonti 14, 18, 25
Cixerri (valley) 5, 37, 115, 116
Coddu Vecchiu (8) 21, 22
Codula de sa Mela 78-79, 80
Costa del Sud 37, 112-113
Costa Smeralda 5, 7, 18, 62
Costa Verde 40
Cuglieri 41, 42
Cuile Televai 78-79
Desulo 27, 28; Stazione Desulo-Tonara (railway station) 94, 95, 96-97
Domusnovas 115
Dorgali 27, 33
Fattoria Giannasi 127, 128-129
Flumendosa (river) 29, 30, 96-97, 102, 104, 106
Fluminimaggiore 37, 40, 123
Fonni 27, 28
Fordongianus 41, 45
Foresta (forest): Montarbu 30, 104, 105; Montimannu 118; Pietrificata Carrucana 14, 15, 25
Gadoni 27, 29, 96-7, 102, 103
Gallura (region) 5, 11, 18, 19, 22, 62
Genna (pass): Croce/Cruxi 27, 32, 78-79, 80; Inter Montes 87, 88, 90; Silana 27, 32
Gennargentu, Monti del (massif) 5, 12, 27, 91, 106
Gesturi 34, 36
Ghilarza 43
Giara di Gesturi (plateau) 5, 16, 36, 108, 109, 110, 111
Giba 37, 38
Gola su Gorropu (rock cleft) 32, 68-69, 72, 73
Golfo (gulf): di Arzachena 19; di Orosei 8, 11, 12, 27, 33, 74; di Saline 18; di Stagnali 58; di Teulada 38
Grotta (cave): de is Janas 29; del Bue Marino 75; di San Giovanni 114, 115; su Mannu 16, 40, 122, 123, 124
Grotte Is Zuddas (caves) 38
Guspini 37, 40
Gutturu (gorge): Farris 114, 115, 117; is Abis 118, 119
Gutturu e Flumini 37, 40
Iglesias 37, 39, 115, 118, 122
Iglesiente (region) 5, 9, 37, 115
Ilbono 31
Is Carillus 38
Isili 34, 35
Itttireddu 46, 50
La Maddalena (island/ village) 18, 19, 57, 58, 59
La Nurra (region) 11
Laconi 34
Laerru 26
Laghetto Santa Degna (pond/picnic area) 14, 24
Lago (lake/reservoir): Corsi 40; del Cedrino 33; del Coghinas 24, 25; del Flumendosa 34; Omodeo 41, 44
Lanaittu (valley) 70-71
Lanusei 27, 31
Las Plassas 34, 36
Li Lolghi (8) 22
Li Muri (8) 21
Logodoro 46
Lotzorai 27, 31
Luogosanto 23
Maccione 65, 67
Madonna di Rimedio (2) 41
Malchittu (8M) 21
Mamoiada 27, 28
Marmilla (massif) 5, 34, 55
Martis 14, 15, 18, 25
Monte (mountain): Ferru 9, 16, 41, 42, 43; Grosso 62-63; Limbara 5, 24, 61, 62-63; Rasu 49, 127, 128-129; sa Guardia Manna 112-113; Santo 50; Sassu 25; Scioccu 62-63; Spada 28; Teialone 57, 58, 60; Texile 96-97, 99, 100-101; Tiscali 68-69; Tonneri 14, 27, 30, 104, 105, 107; Zeparedda 109, 111
Monte Sirai (8) 38
Montevecchio 37, 40
Monteleone Rocca Doria 16, 46, 51
Montresta 46, 47
Mores 46, 50
N S de Cabu Abbas (2) 51
N S di Castro (2) 14, 15, 25
Nebida 37, 39
Nora (8) 37, 39
Nughedu Santa Vittoria 44
Nuoro 27
Nuraghe (8): Ardasai 30; Arrubiu 34; Is Paras 1, 35; Losa 41, 43; Santu Antine 46, 51; Tradori 42
Nuragus 36
Nurallao 34, 35
Nurri 8, 34
Oddoene (valley) 32, 68-69, 72
Ogliastra (plain) 31, 32, 88, 89
Olbia 7, 18
Oliena 27, 31, 33, 65, 67
Ollastra 45
Orgoloso 27, 28
Oristano 37, 40, 41, 45
Orroli 34
Ortueri 41, 44
Oschiri 25
Padria 46, 47
Palau 18, 57
Passo del Limbara (pass) 18, 25
Partulesi (8) 50
Paùli Maiori (lake) 108, 109, 110, 111
Perda (mountain ridge): ‘e Caddu 96-97, 102, 104; ‘e Liana 27, 30, 107
Planu Campu Oddeu (plateau) 78-79, 80
Poggio (peak) Rasu 57, 58, 59
Porto Cervo 18, 20
Porto Conte 132
Pranu Mannu (plateau) 48, 49
Pula 37
Punta del Giglio (point of land) 131, 132, 133
Punta (peak): sos Nidos 65, 67; La Marmora 51, 91, 92; Pinnetta 112-113; Piscina Irgas 118, 120; San Michele 114, 115, 116
Puttu Codinu (8) 49, 52
Rebeccu 46, 47
Riu (river): Aratu 28; Cannisoni 118, 121; Cedrino 15, 33; Cottu 80, 81, 82; dello Spirito Santo 122, 124, 126; d’Oridda 118, 119; Flumineddu 68-69, 70, 72, 73; Girasole 31; Mannu 35, 50; Pramaera 31; Temo 46, 47; Tirso 44, 49
Roccia dell’Elefante 26
Romana 46, 51
Sa Curtigia de Tiscali (8) 68-69, 69, 71
Sa Melabrina (pass) 127, 128-129
Sa Puntighedda (picnic area) 16, 49
Sa Ucca ‘e Padronu (pass) 127, 128-129
San Giovanni di Sinis 41
San Larentu (2) 47
San Leonardo (2) 23
San Leonardo de Siete Funtes (fountain/picnic area) 16, 41, 43
San Mauro (2) 16, 44, 45
San Nicolo di Trullas (2) 47
San Pantaleo 18, 20
San Pietro di Golgo 15, 83, 84
San Pietro di Sorres (2) 46, 51
San Pietro delle Immagini (di Simbros) (2) 23, 26
San Pietro Extramuros (2) 47, 48
San Salvatore 42
Sant’ Andrea Priu (8) 46, 48
Sant’ Angelo 40
Sant’ Agostino 43
Sant’ Antioco 37, 38
Santa Caterina di Pittinuri 16, 42
Santa Cristina (8) 35, 41, 43
Santa Maria di Bubalis (2) 50
Santa Maria Navarrese 8, 27, 31, 87, 88, 90
Santa Vittoria 16, 34, 35
Santadi 37, 38
Sarcidano (plateau) 34
Sassari town plan 136
Scala (steep path): de Surtana 68-69, 70; ‘e Pradu 65, 66, 67
Scaleddas (steps) 87, 88, 89, 90
Sedini 26
Semestene 47
Serra (mountain ridge) Genna Piccinnu 96-97, 99, 101; Santa Maria 96-97, 102
Serra Orrios (8) 33
Serri 16, 34, 35
Seui 27, 30
Seulo 29
Siligo 46, 50
Simaxis 45
Sinis Peninsula 41
Sorradile 41, 44
Spiagga Tuerredda (beach) 38
Stagno (lagoon): di Cabras 42; di Cagliari 37; di Santa Giusta 40
Stella Maris (2) 20
Su Gologone (spring) 15, 27, 33
Su Nuraxi (8) 36
Sulcis (region) 5, 9, 37
Supramonte (massif) 5, 11, 27, 32, 33, 65, 72, 78, 79, 83, 87, 88
Tadasuni 41, 44
Tempio Pausania 5, 8, 12, 18, 24, 61
Tempio di Antas (8) 40, 122, 124, 126
Terralba 37, 40
Teulada 38
Tharros (8) 41, 42
Torralba 46, 51
Torre del Pozo 42
Torre Grande 41
Torrente Leni (river) 118, 119
Tratalias 38
Tuili 16, 34, 36, 108, 109
Ucc’ Aidu (pass) 49, 127, 128-129
Urzulei 78, 78-79, 80, 81, 82
Vallicciola 25, 61, 62-63
Villacidro 118
Villanova Monteleone 46, 52
Villanova Truschedu 45
Villanovatulo 34
Zuri 41, 43

Sardinia, 4th edition (2010); updated 15/10/2012

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) in Sardinia given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

Walk 4: We could not find the starting point of this walk alltough we drove the road several times. We decided to start from the same point as walk 5 begins. Here there are signs which tell to go to the left for Gola su Gorropu and to the right for Tiscali. (User, 10/12)

Walk 5: The description to the start of the walk assumes that you are approaching from the N along the SS125. If you’re coming from the S you’ll only realise that you’ve missed the turning when you get to Cala Gonone tunnel. In fact, the sign for Gola su Goroppu can only be seen whilst travelling southwards. The minor road leading to the start of the road is 2km north of a derelict (utilities?) red-painted building on the east side of the SS125. There is a road sign indicating the turn off about 50m before reaching it. However, the manoevre requires a very sharp left turn. The parking space recommended has the space for 6 or 7 sensibly parked cars (Sardinians increased that by some non-sensical parking). The road between the parking space and the bridge has seen some upgrading (some concrete sections) and there’s at least double the number of spaces between the place recommended and the bridge itself. The guide mentions the ‘concrete bridge’ which can be easily crossed and there are at least a dozen parking spaces (one area designated as such) along the track to Gola su Goroppu within 200m of the bridge. Unfortunately the local commune has started to levy a charge for entry into the gorge. It’s 3.50 euros and 2.50 for concessions (cash only). For this, you have to endure a rather tedious health and safety and nature talk which takes about 5 minutes. The gorge is impressive, but I don’t agree that it’s “one of the largest clefts in Europe”. There are similar and larger gorges in the Picos, Crete, Mallorca, and of course, the Gorge du Verdon. (User, 6/10)

Walk 7, alternative route: The Sardinia Forestry Commission has signed 76 walks in the island (see http://www.sardegnaambiente.it/foreste/foreste_parchi/sentieri.html ), and using the new footpath 501 above Urzulei (see photo of sign at http://www.peteranne.it/wp/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/sardinia-walking-signs-urzulei-web.jpg ) instead of “Soon cross a small saddle and keep right at the fork, slightly downhill,” you could keep left and follow a lovely path to Fennau and can enter the Codula de sa Mela from the south to make a lovely round walk. + I agree with the suggestion on the update page to follow the 501. We followed the ‘official route’ but got problems at the point where the path peters out in front of a rock, and you have to find your way through bushes and trees. By accident we found the path that was meant, but it took a lot of time. The given time for this walk was not correct. It took us 6,5 hours. (User, 10/12)

Walk 11: Clear waymarking (red/white paint) now continues from Genna Orisa all the way to the summit. (User, 10/12)

Walk 12: At the start the houses have been renumbered. You now descend steps between numbers 44 and 46, not 50 and 52. (User, 10/12)

Walk 13: Having just done this walk and struggled to find the beginning, I thought you might like to know the start is now between houses 44 and 46, rather than 50 and 52! Otherwise, a lovely walk. (User, 10/11) + Short walk: If you want to follow the walk as described, ignore the large Texile sign at the side of the road. This takes you on a flat contouring track which does not meet up with the route till the first T junction mentioned on p 100. (User, 10/12)