‘Small is beautiful’ certainly applies to Slovenia, which is only half the size of Switzerland. With a population of just two million, the landscape is still essentially rural. The jagged snow-capped peaks of the Julian Alps contrast with fertile valleys, full of colour and activity. Porous limestone rock has created the karst landscape; typical features can be seen everywhere and are exciting to explore — from underground rivers emerging as cascading waterfalls to narrow gorges, caves and rock arches. The mountain valleys are immaculate, with strips of vegetables and corn amidst the hayfields and orchards. There are hop-growing areas and beautiful vineyards. Amongst these industrious people one senses an orderly contentment and a feeling that everything is in tune with nature. Tour Slovenia by car or on foot; the opportunities are endless.

Area covered: all of Slovenia except for the very northeast and southeast; there is an emphasis on the Julian Alps, with a large-scale touring map

The best months for walking in Slovenia are May and June, September and October

For useful information see www.slovenia-walking.com, www.justslovenia.co.uk, www.slovenedream.com/index.htm, www.sloveniaforfamilies.com, www.thinkslovenia.com, www.pureslovenia.com

The book assumes you will tour Slovenia by car. Each drives starts in a place with good accommodation, but alternative bases are also suggested.

6 car tours, 25 picnic suggestions, 60 long and short walks
136 pages + 2 touring maps (large-scale map of the Julian Alps); 1:50,000 topo maps
3rd ed, 2010; ISBN 978-1-85691-379-9; UK retail price £12.99 / USA retail price $17.99

Table of contents:

IMPORTANT: Place names in Slovenia often contain characters with accents, which are not included in western European fonts. Accented characters such as these often appear incorrectly when viewed on the web and if used may be replaced by unrecognizable symbols when viewed on a different computer. Accented characters in the place names shown here have therefore been replaced by characters without accents. However, in the book, the appropriate font has been used to ensure that all place names appear with the correct accents.

Preface 5
Acknowledgements 6

Getting there and getting about 7

Picnic suggestions    8

Touring 14
Car tour 1: A Circuit in the Julian Alps 16
Car tour 2: A Tour of Two Rivers 22
Car tour 3: Horses and History, Caves and Coast 25
Car tour 4: The Disappearing Lake and other Wonders 28
Car tour 5: Water and Wine 30
Car tour 6: Valleys and Mountains 33

Walking 37
Grades, waymarks, maps 37
The Alpine Association of Slovenia 38
Equipment and safety 38
Weather 39
Organisation of the walks 39
Nuisances 40
Country code 40
Where to stay 40
Recommended reading 41
Useful contacts 41
Slovenian for walkers, with glossary 42

The Walks
1 Circuit of Lake Bled 44
2 Bled · Selo · Kupljenik · Bohinjska Bela · Bled 46
3 Pokljuska Soteska 49
4 Bled · Zasip · Vintgar · Podhom · Bled 51
5 Bled · Koritno · Bodesce · Ribno · Bled 53
6 Rudno Polje · Visevnik · Blejska Koca · Rudno Polje 55
7 Aljazev Dom · Luknja · Aljazev Dom 57
8 Kranjska Gora · Spodnji Martuljkov Slap · Kranjska Gora 60
9 Kranjska Gora · Srednji Vrh · Kranjska Gora 62
10 Vrsic · Slemenova Spica · Vrsic 64
11 Izvir Soce · Zapoden · Vrsic · Izvir Soce 66
12 Soska Pot: Trenta · Izvir Soce · Trenta 68
13 Bovec · Cezsoca · Kal · Koritnica · Bovec 71
14 Slap Boka 74
15 Planina Kuhinja · Krn · Batognica · Jezero v Luznici · Planina Kuhinja 76
16 Kobarid · Tonocov Grad · Slap Kozjak · Kobarid 79
17 Kobarid · Stol · Kobarid 81
18 Tolmin · Zabce · Korita Zadlascice · Korita Tolminke · Tolmin 84
19 Strzisce · Kal · Crna Prst · Rodica · Strzisce 86
20 Ribcev Laz · Ukanc · Slap Savica · Ukanc 88
21 Koca pri Savici · Crno Jezero · Koca pri Savici 91
22 Stara Fuzina · Mostnica Gorge · Voje · Slap Mostnice · Voje · Mostnica Gorge · Stara Fuzina 93
23 Ribcev Laz · Rudnica · Srednja Vas · Studor · Stara Fuzina · Ribcev Laz 95
24 Ski Hotel Vogel · Planina Zadnji Vogel · Vogel · Sija · Ski Hotel Vogel 98
25 Idrija · Divje Jezero · Idrija 100
26 Slap Prsjak 101
27 Predmeja · Koca A. Bavcerja · Kucelj · Koca A. Bavcerja · Predmeja 102
28 Hrastovlje · Sv. Stefan · Dol · V. Gradez · Lacna · Hrastovlje 104
29 Skocjan Caves Visitor Centre · Grad Skolj · Famlje · Grad Skolj · Skocjan · Matavun · Skocjan Caves Visitor Centre 107
30 Cerknica · Velika Slivnica · Cerknica 109
31 Rakov Skocjan 111
32 Rogaska Slatina · Tuncovec · Sv. Florjan · Zgornje Secovo · Rogaska Slatina 114
33 Virstanj · Sela · Volavsek · Virstanj 116
34 Rogla · Sedlo Komisija · Mulejev Vrh · Lovrenska Jezera · Sedlo Komisija · Rogla 118
35 Sport Hotel Areh · Veliki Sumik · Sport Hotel Areh 120
36 Upper Cable Car Station · Velika Planina · Gojska Planina · Mala Planina · Sv. Primoz and Sv. Peter · Stahovica 122
37 Slevo · Kamniski Vrh · Planjava · Planina Osredek · Ravne Senozeti · Slevo 125
38 Robanov Kot · Robanova Planina · Robanov Kot 127
39 Logarska Dolina · Slap Rinka · Logarska Dolina 129
40 Slap Rinka · Okreselj · Slap Rinka 131
41 Podolseva (Sv. Duh) · Potocka Zijavka · Govca · Podolseva (Sv. Duh) 133

Index 135
Touring map/transport information inside back cover

IMPORTANT: Place names in Slovenia often contain characters with accents, which are not included in western European fonts. Accented characters such as these often appear incorrectly when viewed on the web and if used may be replaced by unrecognizable symbols when viewed on a different computer. Accented characters in the place names shown here have therefore been replaced by characters without accents. However, in the book, the appropriate font has been used to ensure that all place names appear with the correct accents.

Aljazev Dom 17, 57, 58, 59
Alpinum Julijana (garden) 18, 69, 70
Areh 31, 120, 121
Baca pri Modreju 19, 22
Batognica (ridge) 76, 77, 78
Bled 7, 16, 17, 21, 44, 46, 47, 48, 49, 51, 52, 53, 54, 57, 91, 93, 95, 98
Lake 8, 16, 44, 44, 45, 47, 48, 53
Bohinjska Bistrica 21, 86, 91, 93, 95, 98
Bohinjsko Jezero (lake) 11, 21, 86, 88-9, 90-1, 94, 95, 96, 98
Bovec 16, 18, 64, 66, 68, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75
Celje 30, 31, 33, 118, 120, 127, 129, 131, 133
Cerknica 29, 109, 110, 111
Cerknisko Jezero (lake) 29, 110
Cerkniscica (river) 109, 110
Cerkno 22
Cesnjica 20, 21, 95
Cesta 24
Cezsoca 71, 72
Crna (river) 129, 130
Crna Prst (summit) 20-1, 86-7
Crno Jezero (lake) 91, 90-1, 92
Divje Jezero (lake) 23, 100
Dolenja Trebusa 22, 101
Dovje 6, 17, 57
(V.) Draski Vrh (summit) 9, 54, 55, 56
Drava (river) 12, 30-1, 32
Franja Partisan Hospital 22
Golobinjek 30, 116
Golobinjski (river, valley) 30, 116-7, 117
Gorenje Jezero 29
Gornji Grad 33, 35, 36
Govca (summit) 34, 133, 134, 134
Gozd Martuljek 17, 60, 61
Grad (castle)
Podsreda 31
Predjama 28, 29
Stari 11
Skolj 107, 108
(V.) Gradez (summit) 104, 106
Hrastovlje 12, 26, 104, 105, 106
Idrija 22, 23, 24, 99, 100, 101, 102
Idrijca (river) 22, 100, 101
Igla (rock tower) 34
Izvir (source)
Crne 129, 130
Savinje 130, 131, 132
Soce 18, 66, 68, 69
Jasna (lake) 17, 21
Julian Alps 4-5, 9, 15, 16, 18, 19, 22, 37, 55, 64, 65, 81, 98
Kamnik 33, 36, 122, 125
Kamniska Bistrica (river, valley) 33, 122, 124
Kamniski Vrh (summit) 13, 125, 126
Kamnisko-Savinjske Alps 13, 35, 37, 123, 126, 131, 133
Kanjavec (cliffs) 4-5, 58
Karst (landscape) 5, 26, 28, 37, 104
Kobarid 16, 19, 66, 68, 74, 76, 79, 80, 81, 82, 82-3
Komarca (cliffs) 90-1, 92
Konjiski Vrh (summit) 20-1
Korita (gorge/ravine)
Mlinarica 69, 70
Tolminke (Tolmin Gorges) 84
Velika 10, 11, 18
Zadlascice (Tolmin Gorges) 84, 85
Koritnica 71, 72, 73
River 18, 72, 73
Kranjska Gora 16, 17, 57, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 66, 68
Krn (summit) 76, 77, 78, 82
Krnica 49, 50, 55
Kucelj 102, 103
Kugy Monument 10, 18, 69
Kupljenik 47
Lacna (summit) 104, 106
Lipica 25, 26, 107
Ljubljana 7, 33, 36, 122
Logarska Dolina (valley) 13, 33, 34, 35, 128, 129, 130, 130, 131, 132, 133
Lovrenska Jezera (lakes) 118, 119
Luce 34, 35, 36
Luknja (pass) 4-5, 57, 58, cover
Mala Piscina (river, valley) 64, 65
Maribor 37, 48, 120
Mojstrana 17, 19, 57
Most na Soci 11, 19, 22, 86, 101
Mostnica Gorge (and river) 11, 92, 93, 94
Napoleon’s Bridge 19, 76, 79, 80, 80
Nova Gorica 23, 102
Olimje 30
Peci 53, 54
Piran 14-5, 26-7
Planina Kuhinja 76, 77, 78
Podcetrtek 30, 116
Podbrdo 20, 86
Podolseva 13, 34, 133, 134
Pohorje Massif 13, 37, 118, 119, 120, 121
Pokljuska Soteska (gorge) 49, 50
Postojna 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 107, 109, 111
Potocka Zijavka (cave) 133, 134
Predmeja 11, 24, 102, 103
Pri Cerkvi 68, 69, 70
Prisank (summit) 10, 65, 67
Ptuj 12, 30-1, 32, 120
Ptujska Gora 32
Race 31
Radovna (river) 51
Rak (river) 111, 112, 113
Rakov Skocjan (valley, caves) 12, 17, 28, 111, 112, 113
Reka (river) 107, 108
Ribcev Laz 11, 21, 88, 89, 90, 90-1, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98
Ribno 53, 53, 54
Robanov Kot (village and valley) 13, 34, 35, 127, 128, 128
Partizanska Bolnica (partisans’ hospital) 127, 128, 128
Robanova Planina (pasture) 127, 128
Rodica (summit) 86-7, 98
Rogaska Slatina 30, 32, 33, 114, 115, 116
Rogla 12, 13, 31, 118, 119
Rudnica (summit) 20, 95, 96, 97
Rudno Polje 54, 55, 56
Sava Bohinjka (river) 46, 47, 53, 54, 93, 95, 96
Sava Dolinka (river) 17, 60, 61
Savinja (river, valley) 33, 127, 128, 130, 131
Sela 116, 117
Selo 46, 47, 47, 48, 53
Sentjur 30, 31
Sija (summit) 98, 99
Skocjan 12, 25, 107, 108
Skocjan Caves 12, 25, 27, 107, 108
Slap (waterfall)
Boka 18, 74, 74, 75
Kozjak 41, 79, 80
Martuljkov 60, 61
Mostnice 93, 94, 94
Palenk 129, 130
Pericnik 8, 17, 57, 58, 59
Prsjak 24, 101
Rinka 35, 129, 130, 131
Savica 21, 88, 89, 90, 90-1
Sum 51, 52
Sumik 120, 121, 121
Slemenova Spica (summit) 64, 64, 65
Slevo 13, 125, 126
(V.) Slivnica 109, 110
Slivnisko Jezero (lake) 12, 31, 32
Sneznik Castle 12, 29, 110
Soca 11, 18
River, Valley 10, 11, 16, 18, 19, 22, 66, 68, 69, 71, 72, 72, 73, 74, 75, 79, 80, 80, 81
Solcava 35, 36
Sorica 20
Spik (summit) 18, 62
Srednja Vas 1, 21, 95, 97
Srednji Vrh 61, 62, 63
Stahovica 33, 122, 124, 125
Stara Fuzina 21, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97
Starijski Vrh (summit) 81, 82-3
Stol (summit) 81, 82-3
Strzisce 20, 86-7
Studor 21, 36, 95, 96, 97
Sv. Florjan 114, 115, 115
Sv. Primoz 122, 124
Sv. Trojica (church) 26, 104, 105, 106
Tolmin 11, 19, 84, 85, 86, 101
Gorges 11, 84, 85
Tonocov Grad 79, 80, 82-3
Trenta 10, 18, 19, 66, 68, 69, 70
River, Valley 10, 64, 69
Triglav (mountain) 8, 9, 11, 17, 19, 55, 56, 57, 58, 68, 98
Triglav (Seven) Lakes Valley 21, 38, 88, 91
Ukanc 21, 88, 90-1
Velika Planina (alpine pasture) 2, 33, 34-5, 122, 123, 124, 126
Vintgar Gorge 51, 52
Vipava 11, 24
Vipava (river, valley) 11, 22, 102, 103
Vipavski Kriz 24
Virstanj 116, 117
Visevnik (summit) 9, 54, 55
Vogel (summit) 11, 98, 99
Skiing centre 11, 98, 99
Volcji Potok 33
Vrata (river, valley) 9, 17, 57, 58,
Vrsic (pass) 10, 16, 17, 40, 62, 64, 65, 66, 67, 69
Waterfalls see Slap
Zapoden 66, 67, 69, 70
Zelske Jame (caves) 111, 112
Zrece 31, 118
Zgornji Gorje 49, 50

Slovenia, 3rd edition (2010); updated 23/07/2012

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) in Slovenia given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

Walk 1: We attempted the path up to the view point on Osojnica. Part way up it became very steep and unnerving. We retraced our steps back to the road, turned left and took a track after just a few yards. This swings round to the left to a car park, but we continued straight ahead on a wide track. This climbs steadily uphill. After a while the path splits – take the left hand one to avoid a steep and rocky climb. Just as the paths merge again there is a signpost pointing uphill to Osojnica and downhill (apparently) to Ojstrica. Right by the post look for a narrow path on the right. This winds steeply up a rocky outcrop – it does involve a little scrambling, but in a couple of minutes you reach the top of Ojstrica complete with a seat. The view is fantastic. We suggest this is an acceptable alternative for those who don’t wish to climb up Osojnica. (User, 7/11)

Walk 8: After the 54 min charcoal burning area (being mended when we were there) the path goes into Spodnji Gorge. This is closed as the path has been washed away about 5 minutes beyond the footbridge. (User, 10/10) + At the 54min point the instructions say “Beyond here take the left-hand track, through pines.” There is also a track to the right of this, which goes uphill and is signed as route 6. There is now a sign indicating that the left-hand track is closed and the right-hand track is the one to use to reach Slap 1 and Slap 2. This is not a temporary sign, but a proper, purpose-made and very permanent looking sign. There is no indication of why the track is now closed but we decided it was best not to try and use it. Instead we went up the right-hand track. This turned out to be very steep and rocky in places and is not an easy way up. We eventually reached a sign pointing off to the left to Slap 1. We followed the track and reached a point where there was water coming down rocks and across the track just ahead. At the this point the track was actually cut into the rock. The wet rocks looked slippy and there was only a bit of rope to hold on to so we gave up and went back down. We could hear, but not see the falls, and presumably had we been willing to risk walking across the wet rocks we would have reached a view point but we can’t be certain. People should be aware that they may not be able to get up to the falls. (User, 7/11) + The updates page for this book shows quite some discussion of walk 8 already. The situation as we discovered it in July 2012 was as follows: The permanent sign at the 54min mark saying that the track up the gorge is closed is still there. We followed the sign for the right hand path up the very rough vehicle track. Later, we found a footpath signed for “walk 6″ that joined the vehicle track most of the way to the top (this was the dotted line on the map in the book) that looked like it might have been a nicer option than slogging up the vehicle track. Access down to “Slap 1″ is signed from the vehicle track. We followed this path down with more success than others have reported on the updates site. The section described as being lots of wet slippery rocks looks like a landslide and lots of work has been done on the track there. We were able to cross this without difficulty to reach a good view of the falls. Whether this is still impassable in wet weather I cannot say. We saw people coming up the “closed” track from the gorge so decided to have a quick look. Two of the river-level bridges have been washed away. A couple of planks on rocks currently provide a dry (albeit slightly exciting) crossing of the river, but I would imagine these will get washed away and presumably replaced by enterprising walkers on a regular basis. We completed the walk back down the gorge following the route as written in the book. (User, 7/12)

Walk 12, 2nd edition: At the 37 + 5 min point, you correctly say you “climb steps away from the river”. This is actually a vertical climb for 15-20 minutes because there is no path close to the river. It needs to be stated that this is steep, and actually not “easy”, and that although it is a “riverside walk” you are on the right path even though you are now climbing vertically away from the river. After the 1hr 16 minute point, there is a dead suspension bridge. This was too soon to be the real one, but it did cause some concern, so the text needs to mention it, please. (User, 10/10)

Walk 20: We completed this walk on a very hot day. We wished afterwards that we had done it in reverse, i.e. left the bus at Ukanc and caught it back from Ribcev Laz. By doing so we would have had the climb up to Slap Savica early in the walk when we were still fresh, and could have enjoyed a paddle in the lake at the end of the walk after a gentle stroll along the lake side. (User, 7/11)

Walk 23, Alternative: The route from Ribcev Laz to Brod is now tarmaced all the way. This makes for very easy walking but look out for bikes as it is a popular cycle route! Up on the high meadows above Brod we found that the signposting was somewhat ‘dodgy’ and didn’t seem to match the walk instructions. As a result when we descended we found ourselves in Cesnjica. (We think that at a junction of paths, by a seat, we should have gone left signposted to Rudnica.) By turning left on the road in Cesnjica, and left again on the edge of the village we managed to get back on the correct route. However the signpost to Srednja Vas was missing altogether although the path was quite obvious. (User, 7/11)

Walk 32 2nd edition: At the 2hr13 min point you cross the road, past a duckpond with a hut for ducks worthy of an MP. The text is correct, “bearing left up a narrow road”. However, the map suggests that the road is a) after the red road comes in from the right, and b) at least 250-300m from the by-pass. In reality it is immediately after the duckpond. We walked straight past it and went on past the road from the right for quite a way before retracing our steps uphill to the correct turn. (User, 10/10)

Walk 33 2nd edition: At about 30 mins you saw a klopotci. Alas, we fear it has gone as we searched everywhere along that stretch of open road for it. Maybe, like you and the Juniper tree, we simply missed it. (User, 10/10)

Walk 39 2nd edition: At the 54 min point, the text is unclear and the map does not fit it. Both have been superceded by what is now the best path. Rather than the path on the map i.e. turning left along the black line, then right over the stream, you need to go along the main valley road (in red) , and then left to the green/black marked path and then turn right. The path is waymarked, but I think there are now 2 paths parallel to each other, both of which will end up at Domacija Planincev. The juniper tree is still there, but is by board 8! It is a very unprepossessing sight as you intimate. We followed the black path for miles, looking for a right turn over the stream that did not exist. Eventually we came back to the route at Domacija Planicev via the black path on the map which comes in from the right on the map (i.e. from the south-east). Then we crossed the stream and we were away again… (User, 10/10)