Sunflower Books: Landscapes of CORSICA: WALKS AND CAR TOURS

Corsica, 5th edition (2009), updated 30/05/11

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Updates for walks and car tours (drives) on Corsica given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

WALK

Walk 2: We were nearly put off this walk by the complexity of the instructions and the likelihood of losing the way, so imagine our delight when we found that it is now much simpler. There is now a definite and well-trodden path, with vegetation cleared from the edges. Go through a big wooden gate opposite the Chapelle San Chirgu and turn immediately left onto the path which goes up the ridge and across the slope all the way to the STONE RUIN at the 1hr45min point in the text. Behind this, a combination of paths and scrambles will enable you to explore around and on the Rocher. We loved this walk, with views of the sea and the Rocher itself along most of the route and spectacular rock formations at the end. Incidentally, it is possible to drive up to the Chapelle, where there is a large parking space.
(User, 9/10)

Walk 6: We have just completed a fortnightís walking on Corsica, using the fiftH edition of your guide to the island. While most of the walks (and those we did 18 months ago on a previous visit) were very successful, we think that there is a need to look again at Walk 6. We found some of the directions difficult to relate to what was on the ground, were put off by a barrier and found much of the route indistinct and very overgrown. A shame, because this has the potential to be a spectacular circuit... Having crossed the "tiny BRIDGE," before you reach the left fork which you take uphill, you reach a cross-track, on to which you have to turn right, then you find the left fork. This junction is very poorly marked, with the signpost leaning against a wall, almost covered by undergrowth. Once at the ridge we found the road easily enough, but there was no sign of any 'PONTE DE NOCETA, ZUCCHERO' signs. When it passes to the left of the transmitter station the road is closed off by a barrier. We climbed this barrier and continued; after the barrier it's not really a road but a track (we could find no sign of any surfacing), and the short cuts were virtually impossible to take - the first involved forcing one's way through head-high maquis (often tunnelling through the bushes on paths only used by animals). On the second short cut we found occasional orange flashes, but little sign of any path. Once back on the track we were quite unable to locate Zucchero, which the guide refers to as an 'outpost' - we werenít sure what we were looking for! The track, we think, goes further than is shown on your map, and ends in a small loop. Eventually we found what we thought was the path down, but it had clearly not been walked very much recently. The entire descent was spent forcing our way through the maquis, and we frequently lost the path and had to cast around to find it again. Waymarking seemed to be non-existent. Eventually we came out at the stream crossing at the 2h 20 min point, but after the derelict farmstead the path disappeared again, and we had to improvise to reach the D43. To give you some idea of how difficult this was, it took us 4-1/2 hrs to reach the Ponte, which is supposed to take only 2-1/2 hrs, and generally we find our timings agree closely with your books. On the page Walk 6 appears one of the most interesting and exciting walks in the book. However it is clear that it has not been maintained and is very difficult to follow, and even more difficult, and in fact at times dangerous, to complete. (User, 5/11) [Sunflower: It appears that the Mare a Mare has been completely rerouted in this area, which would account for the lack of orange waymarking and overgrown routes. Unless you are a strong walker and route-finder, it is best to give this walk a miss.]

Walk 39: There is an important omission from the instructions for the walk. Having jioned the forest track (10 mins), soon leave it on an obvious footpath climbing up on the right, marked with an orange stripe. If you stay on the forest track you finish up at Foce Alta without passing the grassy mound with the view and the other described features. (User, 5/09) [Authors' comment: This comment does not agree with our recollection or our notes - it may be a matter of timings, as this user seems to have walked much faster than we did. We'd be happy tto receive further comments or clarification.] + The map shows an alternative return path NE from the Vacca Morte. The start to this path is not clear, but about 50m from from the flat top on the ascent, a path goes right at the final left turn of the ascent path. It has several small rocks across the start of the path, but it continues nicely downhill to join the outward main path near the Col de Mela. (User, 5/09)
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Walk 40 : An alternative return path suggestion. At the Col St Roch, at the start, note the second path below the main path going left round the cliff.. This path joins the main path (after a right turn) opposite the SHELL OF A BUILDING (30 mins) and forms an alternative return path (turn left at the T junction after 50 m). (User, 5/09)

NEW WALK FROM AJACCIO: A new walk, the Sentier des Cretes, has opened; it runs from Ajaccio town along the line of low hills to Parata. It starts on the road rising northeast above the Place d'Austerlitz at the 'Bois des Anglais' bus stop. The first 30 minutes are steep, but after that it's very easy. It is very well signposted, but the signboard timings are very conservative. They say 5-6 hours in all. I reckon 3 hours at most. Three alternative endings are signposted at various points on the Parata road. (User)

NEW WALK FROM BONIFATU
To the Refuge Ortu di Piobbu
8 miles, 4h30min
Fairly strenuous, with an ascent of approx. 1000m/3300ft lasting 2.5h. Not suitable in cold, wet or changeable weather.
Equipment, Access: as Walk 15
Follow Walk 15 for 15min, but then fork left for the Refuge Ortu di Piobbu. At this point you ford the river, jumping from boulder to boulder. You immediately commence a steady ascent up a rough track which is concreted for a couple of sections. The river is in a deep gorge on your left. After brisk 1h10min you ford a stream with a partially-concreted bed. After 1h30min ford another stream; here a sign tells you that it is another 1h30min to the rufuge. From now on follow yellow pain daubs. The track gets progressively steeper and winds through Corsican pine forest. After 1h55min you ford another stream. Continue up through pines and then a birch forest containing large boulders, before reaching the tree-line of the pine forest. Once above the treeline you ascend through rocks and grass. After 2h05min the refuge is visible up a steep pasture and is reached at 2h15min. The refuge is for the use of overnight visitors only and sits in a natural amphitheatre of pasture and crags, with some birch forest nearby. Return the same way. You can swim in the large pools near the auberge at Bonifatu. (User)

NEW WALK FROM CALENZA
I walked from Calenzana on the GR20 to a ridge about 1000m above Calenzana. Even on a very hot day this took 3h and 2h down the same way. The path continues above this ridge, but the ridge itself is a very rewarding spot. (User)

NEW WALK FROM CALVI
Take the train towards Ile Russe and alight at St Ambroggio or Cocoody Village (Club Med). From there it is possible to follow a coast path back towards Calvi, near the train line. You can stop when you like. From St Ambroggio to St Restitude takes about 3h. Plenty of beaches en route. (User)

NEW WALK FROM CORTE
Info. in Corte have the full details.
Waymarked (orange) circular route from Corte starting just to the right of the start of the Travignano valley path. Steep climb up towards the ridge, firstly up open hillside then up through shady chestnut and pines before very steep final path to the top. Fabulous views into the Travignano gorge. Had no time to complete the circuit which continues anticlockwise along the mountainside before returning downhill, but no doubt the waymarking is more than adequate to return into Corte. (User)

NEW WALK FROM BONIFACIO: A good walk is shown by the red randonnee line on the 1:25000 map Top25 4255OT Bonifacio. The walk starts left up a track some 100m or so up the entrance road to Bonifacio. The walk goes to 3 bays and round the coast. (User, 5/09) [Editor's comment: This user is referring to the path shown on our map which begins just west of the road to Port Vecchio and runs to the Phare de la Madonetta; it is waymarked.]

NEW WALKS FROM BASTIA: A map giving 17 circular walks, varying in length from 1 to 5 hours, may be obtained free from the Syndicat d'Initiative in Piedicroce (up some steps out of the village square). These walks link ancient villages in the Castagniccia region, NE of Corte. The reverse of the map gives the estimated time of the walk, but no indication of the difficulty. It also gives information about things you will see in this fascinating area. There are no detailed instructions for the walks but they are well marked with wooden signs in the villages giving walking times, and with frequent orange flashes. We used a 1:100 000 map of Northern Corsica, purchased locally, to get an idea of the terrain and to get to the starting points. The D506 road from Folelli on the main N198 takes you up into this region. We did the first walk, Boucle 1: Piedicroce - Pastoreccia - Campodonico - Pie d'Orezza - Piedipartino - Piedicroce (2 hours), setting off from the Syndicat d'Initiative in Piedicroce. The going was moderate with ups and downs through sweet chestnut forests and with one long, very steep descent. If you prefer a long, steep climb, you could do the walk just as well in the other direction, setting off just past the Mairie on the main street. We went wrong at one point where a fence has been built across the original route. We had to go down and round the bottom of the fence and up the other side (clearly waymarked when we looked for it). We found that the orange flashes are so frequent that if you walk for a few minutes without seeing one, you have gone wrong and need to retrace your steps! We also did Boucle 6: La Porta - Ezau - Ficaja - Chapelle Santa Maria - Croce - La Porta (2 hours). Again there were moderate ups and downs, with nothing really difficult. The two walks we did were very interesting and varied, with woodland, streams, villages, churches and sudden wonderful views across valleys. It was great to find so many circular walks! (User, 10/09)

NEW WALKS IN COSTA VERDE: A map giving 20 circular walks, varying in length from 1 to 9.5 hours, may be obtained free from the Tourist Office in Mariana Plage, south of Bastia on the N198. These walks link ancient villages in the Costa Verde region, some starting from the main road itself. The reverse of the map gives the estimated time and distance of the walk, a gradient profile and instructions for getting to the start point. There are no detailed instructions for the walks but they are well marked with wooden signs in the villages giving walking times, and with frequent orange flashes. We used a 1:100 000 map of Northern Corsica, purchased locally, as backup. We did the short Loop 20 which took in the interesting village of San Nicolao with its old black and white photos displayed in front of the buildings they depict. We also did Loop 13 in a clockwise direction. This seemed best as we did the uphill parts first and finished up with a pleasant stroll along the river. (We didn't park down by the main road as suggested, but drove to where the paths divided at the start of the walk proper, although parking here is very limited.) (User, 9/10)