Sunflower Books: Landscapes of CORFU: WALKS AND CAR TOURS

Corfu, 5th edition, 2009, updated 31/10/2011

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Updates for walks and car tours (drives) on Corfu given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

General
Outside the main season (which almost religiously is deemed to start on 1 May), visitors staying outside Corfu Town may be faced with very limited shopping or restaurant facilities. Arriving at Kalami on 27 April we were lucky enough to find one tourist supermarket stacking their shelves for the summer season, but all three tavernas and bars were closed and would not open until 1 May. As we had a car it was easy for us to drive the 15 minutes or so to Kassiopi to find a local supermarket and a couple of restaurants, but without a car we would have had some problems. (e-mail, 6 May) + Index errors: Sunflower apologises for several incorrect index entries under 'Ag. Gordis'. The index should read:Ag Gordis (resort west of Corfu Town) 30, 34, 128Ag Gordis (beach on the west side of Cape Kavos) 125, 127The references to pages 88 and 89 refer to Ag Georgios, the bay near Afionas!

I have been using "Landscapes of Corfu" since 2002. Corfu is great place for walkers and I found the book indispensable help during my many stays on the island. Thank You ! I was also using the Freytag&Berndt 1:50000 Corfu map which is much better then Road Editions. It is widely available in bookstores on the island.

Picnic 13: See Walk 14.

Walk 1 and 2: Most Corfu - Kassiopi busses go as far as Agia Ilia. These buses are very convenient to directly reach starting point of walks 1 and 2. (User, 6/10)

Walk 2: After leaving little wood of kermes oaks (about 25 min.) there is no turn-off to the right to ignore. Stay on the main path passing through the small wooden gate (untied). The dog in Kato Bodholakos was tethered far from the road and did not pay much attention to me. (User, 6/10)

Walks 3 and 5 both pass through Rou en route to Porta. David Baker is valiantly trying to get the Rou footpath reopened. He writes to say that the promised diversion of the footpath has not been put into effect. This is causing frustration amongst walkers, some of whom have even been told that they have no right of way. David and a colleague will clear the lower part of the footpath early this summer, and he has asked the owners of the Rou Estate to make it accessible from the top. He will write to tell us when it is open; in the meantime it's probably better to use the road to Porta - it's very pleasant as it passes through olive groves all the way. + Until the footpath is reinstated, a user suggests yet another route: Approaching Rou "You pass the old quarries (1h15min) and then, where the telephone poles go uphill, ascend a track to the left, into Rou...". This was easy to find, and it was fairly easy to find a route out of the Rou Estate between the last house and its pool, and then after around 30-50m join the track that bypassed Rou to the east (in fact the same path that you had left at the quarries). However it was difficult to spot the path that then left this track on the right to head down into the gully en route to Porta. Our advice is to NOT to climb up left by the quarries but follow the track bypassing Rou to the east, and then, as you come parallel with the final holiday houses, look for a almost hidden path heading off right into the scrub. A clue is a bright blue rubber pipe that has been roughly laid all the way along this path to Porta... Once on the path to Porta it would be better to say "Less than 10 minutes back uphill (just after crossing a water course), the path fades out. Follow the water course straight uphill at this point, and you will soon see the path again ahead of you." (User, 5/10) + MAP ERROR: The Corfu Trail between Garnelatika and Katavolos is drawn incorrectly. In particular, the path forking to the right above Picnic 3 descends to Kaminaki (whereas the map shows an ascending path). The wide concrete road forking to the left above Katavolos is not shown on the map (but is correctly described in text), (User, 6/10)

Walk 3: Near the start of the walk the text says: "Some 100m further on, take care: turn off on a faint path to the right. The way climbs steadily, and the path becomes more obvious". We went a bit wrong here, and were blundering around amongst the olive nets for a while, though eventually found the correct path between the stone walls. A few splodges of paint next time this route is checked could help. Just before the 35min-point: "Be sure to head right at the fork 40m beyond the building and pole on a concrete road. On coming to a tarmac/concrete road (35min), follow it to the right uphill and come up into the hamlet of Katavolos by turning right, OFF the tarmac road, as indicated by a yellow waymark..+ For the stretch from Rou to Porta, see the update for Walks 3 and 5 above. + From Porta Walk 3 continues to the right. The text reads "Around 5 minutes along, pass a bus shelter on the right. Some 60m/yds beyond it, turn right on a concrete drive off a bend in the road". This is all very misleading (there is another bus shelter on the left of the Kendroma Road which leaves on the right!), and distances quoted are inaccurate! We recommend the following text: Turn right and follow the road through Porta. Ignore the right turn signposted Kendroma, but follow the road to the left, climbing up the hill. You will shortly pass a bus shelter on your right, and around 250-300m beyond it, as the road swings to the left, turn down a concrete drive on the right... Coming into Vigla (2h05min), the text should read: "join a concrete drive. Turn left downhill here, almost immediately reaching a T-junction. Turn right here (near a defunct cafeneion, now a villa) and follow the road out of the village, as it swings first to the left and then right. Then take the third concrete drive turning off to the right, following it downhill..." We managed to lose the path after Villa Nicos, but found an alternative route down steps and crossing a couple of patios - we got away with it as there was nobody in residence! We came across the path with the galvanised pipe as it joined the road (where the text reads: "On joining a concrete road, follow this downhill past grassy inclines..." Note that about 100m down this road, on a left hand bend, a fairly well walked path leaves the road on the right. This path zig-zags downhill, and after about 5 mins comes down past a large building signed "Town Hall" to a refreshment kiosk on the coast road, only about 150m-200m from the Kouloura / Kalami turn. (This is a good short cut, avoiding a lengthy stretch of road walking.) (e-mail, 5/10)

Walk 4: There is a path for the start of the walk opposite the S end of the Shell station at Meon Villas 'Villa on the Rocks' signed on a pole with CT Trail. Go into drive and immediately left on path marked yellow which zigzags down and cuts off corner to beach. (User, 6/09) + The walk can be extended via the new public path from Ag. Stefanos to Avlaki along the coast - no buildings, few people and beautiful beaches ! The path starts at the last taverna in Ag. Stefanos, there is an information sign with a map at the beginning. (User, 6/10) + As you leave Kaminaki keep to the left of the concrete platform or you will be faced with a short but steep climb up to the track which you follow along the coast... You climb about 5m (elevation) above the volley ball court at the Nissaki Beach Hotel (the 50m is a linear distance but the way is obvious)... There are major developments beyond Ag Arsenious, so do not be tempted to follow the new broad track which continues very close to the chapel. Ensure that you return to follow the CT sign up the steps. Be careful not to disturb the bats if you enter the chapel... When leaving the level plateau on the Rothschild property you have a steep descent down to sea level. If you find this difficult, then go back to use the road, as it gets much worse. Although the route is not difficult to follow, there appears to have been much erosion, and you will end up with wet feet as well as spending a long time clambering on rocky ledges. Do not attempt this if you are not agile. If you proceed and are relying on the bus and are short of time, you can turn left, away from Ag Stefanos when you reach the road from Kerasia and turn right in about 100m (opposite a gated entrance to the Rothschild property). Villa Tassos is on your left as you begin the ascent. Ascend a steep concrete track through a sliding gate (often closed to vehicles) shortly after which you turn left to continue your ascent. Turn right at the T junction and follow the sign to Sinies Supermarket which is 100m or so below the main road and bus stop. Distance is about 1.2km from reaching the road from the coastal path...

There is a wide path between Ag Stephanos and Kendromadi. To find it, leave Ag Stefanos by the road but turn left as you reach the church and continue on the broad track which passes immediately to the left of the church. Follow this track as it winds gently uphill following the twist and turns of the contours. You will pass a kindergarten, with colourful children's toys, on your left near the top; shortly afterwards turn right to come to Sinies Supermarket which is 100m or so from the main road and bus stop, distance from church to bus stop is 2.4km. Note that the map by the first supermarket in Ag Stefanos does not show the twists and turns... The optional extension from Ag Stefanos to Avlaki mentioned by another user is well worth doing but could be part of a separate walk using the path described above in the reverse direction. To do this take the left fork (with no through road symbol) after passing the Sinies supermarket on your left and then the first tarmac track on the left. It is then straightforward down to Ag Stefanos church where you turn right to the sea until you arrive at the map board on your left. Take a picture of the map and your digital camera will provide the guidance you need but the signs "en route" are adequate. The path passes through the Erimiti nature reserve and you can buy a guide to it at the most northerly (nearest now) supermarket in Ag Stefanos. Unfortunately many of the beaches are occupied by day-trippers arriving by sea. There is a good Taverna at Avlaki and you could continue on the quiet road to Kassiopi for return by bus. Total distance about 8.5km from Kendromadi bus stop to Kassiopi; of course an alternative is to park under the trees in Ag Stefanos and complete the walk after alighting from the bus at Kendromadi. (User, 7/10)

Walk 5: See Walks 3 and 5 above. + The old path Rou - Santa can be reached as described by other users and the blue water pipe is good orientation point. The Corfu Trail from Porta to Santa can be used as an alternative for the main walk. It's about 1km extra, but it is absolutely marvellous ! The path forks right about 50m above the church in Porta and is marked by yellow dots. On the pass (3h) there is quite a convenient and clear path going in the direction of the derelict stone building described in the book. The path starts at the shrine, goes down the valley, then about 50m before reaching the stone building it turns left into dry stream bed and merges with the path described in the book. (User, 6/10) + We liked Ano Perithia but not the drive to it. We parked in the shade by a small water treatment works just before the Mengoulas turn-off; this is an easy drive up from Kendromadi for a 14.5km there and back walk... The walk instructions by the Venetian villa did not seem to bear much relation to what we found although there is a new concrete track straight ahead where the road goes round to the right. We followed the tarmac road round to the right as it passes in front of the villa to a new paved area (many new litter bins here and a couple of mulberry trees). The road then curves round to the left past a notice which seems to indicate that some EU financed work is going on here. The tarmac then becomes a rough track which you follow parallel to a deep ravine to your right. After a further 300m you turn left at a T-junction where the track joins the path as described in the guide... When you join route 7 there is no shrine and no seats but there is a large open sided shelter. At this point the written instructions and map diverge. Follow the written instructions, the path down is clear and vegetation has been cut in places. Just follow it to the left down the valley and do not worry about the wild pear trees, there are many. Yellow waymarks appear in the later stages of your descent. This is a lovely section of the walk, easy to follow, with no obvious turns until you reach the track above Ano Perithia. Our time from shelter to Ano Perithia centre was 40 minutes so time given appears to relate to the longer route shown on the map. (User, 7/10)

Walk 6, IMPORTANT: At the T-junction above Viglatouri and Villa Signalo, where you turn left for Palies Sinies, this track is now being widened as an unmetalled road with vechicular access right up to the top of Pantokrator. The turn-off left off this track five minutes uphill - off into the valley and up the far hillside via the corral - is now so overgrown that it is practically impossible. Sticking to the original track, it winds round the hillside at a comfortable gradient right up to thepass at the 2h20min point (the T-junction with the summit road) after about 4 miles. Those disinclined to visit Palies Sinies can always stick to the road. The beautiful and historic monastery church at the summit, with its silver icons and impressive murals should not be missed - nor should a restorative glass of beer at the summit cafeteria. (User, 6/10) + Ascending from the valley to the road (before reaching Palies Sinies) was torture. I was able to find beginning of the path, but it faded almost immediately into bushes. Keeping the direction is easy, but the terrain is rocky and overgrown. I saw horn viper on the other side of this valley, so be careful ! It is possible to go around the valley staying on the road, but it adds about 2km to the walk. Unfortunately the whole road from Vinglatsouri to Palies Sinies will be tarred and preparation work is already in progress. (User, 6/10) [Editor: The route both of these users complain about was the route of the Corfu Way, perhaps The Way has been re-routed; for the present, it would be best to stick to the road.] + Map error: near Villa Signalo: the main road is on the right side of the path, not on the left side as shown on the map. (User, 6/10)

Walk 7: The first bus stop in Loutses (bus turning point) is no longer used, so do not try to wait there ! The bus turns back on Anapaftiria road. The second bus stop is O.K. (User, 6/10)

Walk 8: After passing the abandoned monastery of Pantokrator of Nimfes and descending into the valley it is necessary to cross the stream. The book says "There is no bridge, but fallen branches provide a way across for the agile." Unfortunately in May 2009 the stream was a deep, wide torrent with no fallen branches anywhere in sight. Despite walking along the bank through very thick vegetation it was impossible to find any place to cross and the walk was terminated and we back-tracked to Nimfes. (User, 6/09) + We have just returned from Corfu and attempted this walk among many others. Not only was the stream a torrent but there was no sign of anywhere to cross. We followed the forestry track down stream and found a new manmade log bridge but could find no way of linking up with the track on the other side of the stream. Like your previous correspondent we back tracked to Nimfes, before completing the rest of the walk. (User, 4/11)

Walk 12: In August 2011 there were numerous large fires on the island, particularly in the area above Lakones and between Lakones and Makrades. The route described in the book is safe, although it passes through burnt-out area in places. Walk 11 (path Lakones - Vistonas) could be affected as well, but I have not walked this path. The 'neat, concreted path, bordered by low stone walls' (just before Krini) no longer exists. It was widened into wide conrete lane. (User, 10/11)

Walk 13: We did the Marmaro Hills circuit. At the Cricketer's Taverna, it would be clearer to say one goes through the Taverna terrace and steps up to the path rather than just 'via the Taverna', although the road goes in the same direction. In the main text at 55min it says 'at the fork, there is a shrine just beyond it' the shrine is at the fork as shown on the map. We found this walk very difficult to follow with just time checks - we should have had a stop watch! As we never found the correct T-junction and did not find the football pitch, we eventually ended up in Kanakades.No paths are shown on your map that can link this walk with Kanakades and so had a long road walk back rather than being able to back track. (User, 6/09) + The configuration of roads is shown incorrectly on the map at T-junction at 1h35. There is also another problem here - the text mentions 'road to a football pitch'. I can be wrong, but I do not think there is any football pitch in the area. (User, 6/10) + Short walk 2: the correct name of the beach is 'Rovinia' (not 'Bovina'). That's the place described by Emma Tennant in 'A House in Corfu'. Several users complained about problems finding way at Marmaro Hills. I append map of the problematic area (GPS trace printout) which should help. (User, 10/11)

Walk 14/Picnic 13: We did a shorter circular walk (9.5km) from this picnic spot; this allows time for finding Moni Ag Noufures and avoids the steep ascent in hot weather. Note that the lane to the parking area has deep pot holes so great care is needed. Comments refer to the walk as described apart from the reference to turning right at the main road and the diversion by the donkey sanctuary... There is no sign on the lane to Camomilia but otherwise the description is adequate, there is a rudimentary (paper in plastic envelope) sign a little further (300m) on but the way is obvious until you are close to the fences at Camomilia. The track comes to a T-junction, we turned left and shortly afterwards (50m) right through a gap in the hedge to find an initially clear path becoming overgrown with brambles. This went gradually uphill in roughly the right direction and for much of the way followed a track shown on our GPS (Garmin City Navigator Europe) map but indistinct on the ground. If you try this walk follow the path as best you can, always keeping below the brow of the hill. If you come to a 2m high chain link fence near the top of the hill do not despair, follow this round to the right past some semi-derelict buildings to a locked 2m high gate. Just to the right of the gate you can clamber down a stony embankment to the remains of a stony track which ends at the road, and you can see the Moni. From this point on the walk to the main road is easy. Distance from Camomilia to the Moni only 700m if you get it right. (WGS84 reference for the Moni is 34 S 395813 4390735.)... We turned right at the main road for our shorter walk. Distance on the main road is 1.1km. The return from where you leave the road is relatively straight forward although much concrete has been laid and you generally follow that once the tarmac has finished. At one point ensure you pass to the left of a fire hydrant and avoid the right hand fork which goes downhill... If you are doing our shorter circular walk from Picnic place 13 then veer right by the Corfu Donkey Sanctuary although scrub clearance was going on here and the track may become difficult to follow. In this case you could continue on the concrete until you meet the outward track described in the guide where you turn right. (User, 7/10) + Walk 14 starts from the Lucciola Inn. This is quite a place - see www.lucciola.eu or Trip Advisor.

We recently had an e-mail from the owner: "My name is Daphne Desylla and I am the owner of an organic bistro in Corfu (see your Walk 14). There are several nice paths in the area which we are in and we often come across walkers and cyclists in this area. We are 12k north from Corfu town towards Paleokastritsa. The area is known as Sgombou. We believe your readers would appreciate the style and ambiance of our place. I have also been a walking guide on the island and have walked the Corfu trail several times, therefore if I am not busy, if anyone drops by I would be glad to help out with any queries they might have regarding paths or trails." (Sunflower, 5/11) + I started the walk from Doukades (from the 4h05 point). Leaving the village I could not spot any large olive tree, but the map is accurate here, so I had no problem finding the correct track. Unfortunately about 15 min later, after forking from the track to the old path the route is impassable. Shortly after passing a shed with a corrugated iron roof I entered a bulldozed area. All the rubbish, tree trunks etc. are pilled in the lower part of the olive grove, and it is impossible to continue the walk. I tried to find a way to the right of the bulldozed area and I was able to find remains of the old path, but the vegetation was so dense I could not proceed. There may be some path around this area, but I was unable to find it and finally I gave up. (User, 10/11)

Walk 15: One possible change to page 110, do NOT go "past the roadside tavern" Rather go through its car park. Also go down the steps at the side of the restaurant at Glyfada. We did not realise it was a restaurant and did not wish to trek through someone's garden so had a skidding descent to the level. (User, 7/11)

Walk 16: We did this walk during our stay in Corfu Town. We could not find a 12.30 bus from Corfu to Ano Garouna. We discovered that there was a 14.00 bus to Ag Mattheos which dropped us at the Ano Garouna Turning (adding about one mile to the walk), and a 14.30 bus into the village (which passed just as we were approaching the bus shelter at the official start of the walk). The Chapel at Moni Ag Deka was locked, as was the well ! Coming to the village of Ag Deka, "keep ahead along narrow alleys, and in three minutes you will emerge on the road (1h25min)". Our Comment - keeping right through the village leads you through 400m to 600m of attractive alleyways, and around 5-6 minutes later you come out onto the road at the southern end of the village by two cafes (hurrah!)... Leaving Ag Deka by turning right on the road "Some 40m past the shrine, opposite a little garden (named the "Love Nest") turn left downhill on a path, into olive trees. This path will take you to Benitses". This turn- off was easy to find, though there is no sign naming the small garden as the "Love Nest". However this is no longer a path but a bulldozed track. About 200m along the track there has been a large landslip and a rock the size of a small house blocks the way. It is, with a bit of scrambling, possible to climb round the blockage, but this was not easy. We did not see the "fork to the left" and the only "fork to the right" was another very steep bulldozed track. Further down, when you come alongside a well cultivated garden on the left do not follow the bulldozed vehicle track that turns immediately to the left, but instead look for a path heading off to the right. This then takes you to the T-junction mentioned at which you turn right for the Waterworks Garden, left to Benitses. (I noticed a path heading up through the Waterworks Garden - whether this might offer a more attractive route down from the Ag Deka road than the heavily bulldozed track is worthy of further investigation). (User, 5/10)

Walk 21: The small chapel in Moni Panagia Arkoudillas was completely destroyed by the falling stone wall, with only the belfry remaining. (User, 6/10)