Sunflower Books: Landscapes of CROATIA: WALKS AND CAR TOURS

Croatia, 2nd ed (2011); updated 21/10/2011)

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Updates for walks and car tours (drives) on Croatia and its islands given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

Walk 3 : When the tarmac ends on the short steep road taken at the 1h47m point, continue ahead on a track of equal width. When the track descends to the right continue ahead on a broad sandy path. There were no signs of encroachment by vegetation in October 2011. This part of the route is signposted from Benesin Rat : 1600 metres (but strangely not from the other end) : 1600 metres. Gjorgjic-Mayneri Park in Uvala Lopud is well worth a visit: some magnificent trees, shade and quiet; access from harbour promenade. (User, 10/11)
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Walk 4 : Ferry from Prapratno to Mljet (40 min. crossing) an extortionate 180 kunars return for foot passengers; car 360 return; National Park entrance fee 90 per person. An expensive day out to an overrated island. (User, 10/11)

Walk 10: Following a recent fire, it is now virtually impossible to do the walk from the coast up to the highway (1 hr point) as the path is blocked near the top by fallen splintered pines and undergrowth. The undergowth is very dense and it is impossible to see where the path went and it is very difficult to scramble over the splintered pines. (User, 5/11) + There has been a forest fire between the coast and the house called Kuk. The house is gone and the path is covered with fallen trees and is very difficult to follow. Part of the waymarks are gone as well. We found our way, but the situation will exist for a long time, because in this climate trees will not decay fast. (User, 7/11) + Although the route can be followed with difficulty, it would be advisable to check with the local visitor information centre for up to date advice. (Author, 7/11) + The entire path to Kuk (55 mins) is an obstacle course of uprooted trees. It is still possible to get round/over/under, but is it worth the effort in torn clothing and frustration ? This storm damage does not appear to be recent. The one benefit is that Kuk is seen early on and its dramatic position can be fully appreciated. A lot of building work is under way at Veliko Brdo and environs meaning more tarmac and noise. Out of season free parking can be found on the road running below and roughly parallel to the E65. (User, 10/11)

Walk 14: Blaca monastery is unfortunately closed until further notice due to damage from a rock fall. It is best to check with the tourist office in Bol to see when it will re-open as we were given no indication as to when this may be. The walk itself is beautiful in any event! (User, 5/11)

Walk 18: The information regarding the entrance ticket is not correct. At least in high season (we were there in the 2nd week of September), a daily ticket does NOT cover as many ferry trips as you want in one day. It covers one ferry trip and one bus ride. The trip as described in the book is not therefore do-able unless you smile sweetly at the official who speaks only Croatian and fail to understand him. There is a risk that you could queue for 45 minutes for a 2nd ferry trip and be turned away (saw it happen). There are also no direct ferries between P1 and P3. It's a short (uncontrolled) hop from P1 to P2 then a second longer trip between P2 and P3. You definitely won't need waterproofs for Veliki Slap in summer ­not enough water. A general point ­ the park is set up as a nature experience for day-trippers from Zagreb. It's perfectly possible to wander round the sign-posted trails in flip-flops and buy a burger at the concession stands if you want to. If you want to get away from crowds for the Sunflower experience, the southern end of the park (Split end) is quieter and allows you to stretch your legs a bit. Getting creative with the park's own path identification scheme might actually be easier than trying to follow religiously the route in the Sunflower guide. (User, 9/11) + The first boat didn't leave from P1 until 9 (last week in Sep.), so our early arrival was wasted. The NP entrance fee is now 110 kunar + 7 k per hour for parking. Reckon on at least 6 hours to do the walk as you will be going at a snail's pace most of the day. The total ascent is given as approx. 50m, but that's a substantial underestimate. (User, 10/11)

Walks 19-21: I've just returned from a week walking in Paklenica (walks 19-21). There are a couple of updates needed to your current guide. Forword - from the E65 the road to the park is now tarmac and well signed... Walk 19 : After 3 weeks walking in the French and Italian alps, it came as a shock to discover just how tough Croatia is on the feet. Limestone rubble also makes it difficult to maintain a good rhythm. (User, 10/11)

Walk 21 - the cave tour is up to 30 mins - Saturday morning only out of season. There is no barrier when cave is closed but two signs near start of path are put up when open. After the cave there is a short tricky descent and at the point where you "use hands to get over a couple of rocks" there is now a steel cable in place. The comment near the end that the Starigrad road left is overgrown is not really true. It is well signed and a quicker way back though at Tomici it is simplest to continue on to Starigrad not go left to Kanyon as this is a very steep and tricky descent. Walk 21 was the best walk we did all week but no way is it moderate nor is it for anyone but experienced mountaineers as a high level of competence is needed. It took us 10 hours with stops. Walk 20 - this is not a particularly good walk as it goes both up and down the steep scree path. The first turn round point is daft as the "hidden" cave is only some 200m from the junction to the left and is obvious and worth visiting. The final section is English Grade 1 scrambling both up and down. We actually started the walk from near the second gorge - Mala Paklenica - which was a far superior walk although it wouldn't fit onto your map... Mala Paklenica itself is well worth visiting going up and back down for as far as the individual wishes - there are cables in places. No climbing is permitted in this gorge... Excluding Walk 19 which is on main track, the times given are VERY tight both in your guide and the map. Only fit mountaineers will be able to make them. With stops we took over 50% longer on almost every route on the map.

Walk 30 : From Lipica (1h40m), follow the familiar red and white flashes and targets; a few faded powder blue marks are still visible early on. If you don't want to wait for the bus in Draga Bascanska, a cycle track can be followed back to the Batomalj road. (User, 10/11)
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Walk 31 : At Plato Mjesca the rusty shelter has been replaced with a wooden building. An information board by the trail gives details of the nature reserve set aside for the preservation of eurasian vultures; also a habitat for eagles, peregrine falcons and kestrels. This is accessible via a waymarked route, which would add at least 4km to the route over fairly uncompromising terrain. (User, 10/11)
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Walk 32 : The informal car park at Zarok has been made inaccessible to vehicles. There may be a hint of exposure walking along the rim of the low cliff after 20 mins or so, but this section can be avoided by turning right to descend into the dip and keeping to the path through the woods. The very pretty cove at Rt Skuljika is now marred by a lot of broken glass. The distribution of green glass in particular leaves no doubt that this was a deliberate act of vandalism. The long traverse across very steep slopes on the return leg from Ljubimer may be problematic for vertigo sufferers. (User, 10/11)
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Walk 33 : Parking offroad isn't possible at the small brown information sign, but there is room on the verge shortly before the start of the walk. You can continue along the coast from the 1h34m point to find bathing access at several places. Eventually the way was blocked by a huge autocamp; however, as the camp was closed, we were able to walk through it and pick up an earthen path, which led to further delightful coves. This stretch from autocamp to Krk was easily the best bit of the walk. (User, 10/11)
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