Sunflower Books : Landscapes of EASTERN CRETE: WALKS AND CAR TOURS

Eastern Crete, 4th Edition (2003), Updated 03/01/10)

(To visit the web page for this book on our main site, click here )

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) in eastern Crete given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

IMPORTANT NOTE: This book is only available as a pdf download. It is also very out of date (2003), and no new edition is planned for the future.

BUSES

It cannot be stressed too strongly that an up-to-date bus timetable should be acquired before you embark on any walks. Especially 'out of season', the bus services may be restricted.
Note also that there are several bus services centred on Neapolis, which might be of interest to walkers (eg, to Tapes, Lasithi, etc). While Neapolis is not a holiday centre, it is easy to get to by bus from Iraklion and Agios Nikolaos so, if you are interested, enquire about departures at Neapolis.
Important: The bus station in Agios Nikolaos has just been moved. Unfortunately the new station is in an area not shown on our map. To get there, walk north up Plastira (which is on our map) until it ends, then turn left on Knossou. Follow this to Epimenidou and turn left. The bus station will be a short way along to your right. As this station is not marked on any new maps yet, ask someone in your hotel to locate it for you on whatever town plan you are using. (Sunflower, 6/03)

DRIVING: Car Tours out of Aghios Nikolaos: Route B is now part of a one-way system bringing traffic into town. We used route A once and got stuck behind a bus that was stuck behind an "abandoned" car. A very narrow road with parking on both sides. Thereafter we used route C without any problems. (User, 6/08)

Guiding: An Englishwoman who lives in Kritsa has organised a walking group and would be happy to meet walkers visiting the island. If you would like a guide or would like to join their Sunday walks, contact Mrs Hilary Dawson. Write to her at Panteleimon Street, Kritsa, Lasithi, Crete or contact her by phone, fax or e-mail. Phone: 0030 2841 028804, fax 0030 2841 026233.
e-mail: hilary72051@hotmail.com

Donkey rides, etc: An English couple living near Ierapetra have built a big barn and exercise yard where unwanted donkeys can live in the company of other donkeys. At present they have 7 donkeys. They write: "As we are totally self financing we try to raise money for their feed and veterinary treatment by offering picnic walks with the donkeys, short walks, children's rides or just visits to come and see the donkeys. All activities are geared towards the individuals and are not 'group' outings. All visits are by appointment only (we do not live on the farm). Phone numbers are (ask for Alistair or Suzanne Paton): 0030 697 6088547 and 0030 693 426 4012. Web site: www.walkwithdonkeys.com

Car tour 3: The viewpoint referred to on page 25 as being after Kalamafka is actually before you get there, between Prina and Kalamafka. It is well sign-posted and luckily we stopped there as we looked in vain for the view point after Kalamafka!! Would also recommend a stop in Kalamafka - many kafenions, in particular one outside the church in a cave to the left of the road as you drive through. (e-mail, 9/05)

Tour 8: Just after Pefkos you mention the turning left to Kato Symi. The main road in these parts has been renewed and with it has gone all signing to Kato Symi, so we missed it. (User, 2/05)

Tour 10: Vathypetro was closed when we called, with no indication when it would be open. The road onwards from here towards Houdetsi is now impassable because of road building. We noticed local 4x4s were turning left up the hillside through vineyards, disappearing in a cloud of dust: we presurne there might have been a way through, but hardly advisable in an ordinary car, and it was not signed in any way, so we turned back and followed the main road to catch up with the tour. (User, 2/05)

Walk 1: at 25 min. "on the brow of the hill, look for a donkey trail going up to the left": we were not able to find that trail. Note that we could not go further because of a fence. (User, 01/10)

Walk 2: A previous update [now removed by Sunflower, as it was obviously incorrect] stated there were some problems with this walk, but we had no trouble following the instructions in the guide last week (October 2006). We found all the landmarks, including the netting (although in some places it has been knocked over, making it easier to cross). On the return journey, the two gates mentioned are present and correct (it may be worth reiterating that the 2nd gate is a "Cretan" gate - more of a hole in the fence than anything). And you DO have to go right up to the large concrete structure, not through the gateway on the right, which leads into a farmyard. After that the directions in the guide are perfectly clear. The only thing that has changed from the book is that, as you leave Tapes using the instructions for Walk 15, you come to a T-junction with a broad track at the bottom of the village. Follow this track a few yards to the right, and you should be able to see the (not very distinct) footpath leading sharply downhill through the olive grove. To encourage you, it's punctuated by small cairns as it zigzags along. (User, 11/06) + Beautiful...but we were not aware of the possibility of water in the gorge "at its narrowest" despite the fact that it had not rained for more than 10 days. Those 3 or 4 feet deep of water made us go back to the start. (User, 1/10)

Walk 3 : There is now a path across the "scramble" before the 55min-point. User, 5/05) + The path disappeared at 2h30min, after crossing the river bed and starting up the other side. (User, 1/06) + The old mills are no longer used to store grain. One has been incorporated into a house, the other is in ruins. This does not affect the route. (User, 8/06) [Editor's note: This user does not mention 'losing the path' once having crossed the river bed..]

Walk 4 : The first time we have done this, although from the Kalamafka end we did up to the 1 hr 45 bit. It is a beautiful walk. Today we did the other half from Kroustas, which we have actually done before but were not sure if it did go all the way to Kalamafka. Anyway, at the start of the instructions "by turning right on a concrete track (10 mins), there is signpost saying "Sources of Kafalovrisses". All was ok to 1 hr 20 mark, but E4 waymark not there pointing to the right. So we suggest "At T junction turn left." Then all ok up to 1 hr 45 mins. The road has been bulldozed and widened and there are tracks that are not mentioned, so best to say, "Rounding another bend in the track (1 hr 45 mins) Ag Nik comes into view head. From now on keep on this main agricultural track ignoring any other other tracks coming into it or leading off it, as you pass through the pine forest." There is no wall and fencing any more and the old donkey track we think you are referring to is not obvious any more and what we think it is, now has lots of rocks which were dumped there from the bulldozing. After walking this far down the main agricultural track, you might as well just have people carry on all the way to the final T junction, which is the now-tarmac road from Prina. This should be 3 hrs 10 mins. Turn left on the road and carry on all the way to Kroustas. From this point it takes 10 minutes to walk to Kroustas and is just as quick as trying to cut out the loop by trying to cross the old donkey track to the bridge. P.S. Actually on Sunday we did the donkey trail from the bridge up to the start of the donkey track. It is quite overgrown and we really think it best if people just carry on the track as they have been doing. (Walks leader in Eastern Crete, 2/07)

Walk 5: The wind farm is now established on Agios Ioannis Point and the roads/paths mentioned on p69 seem to have been re-aligned or disappeared. It doesn't affect the impact of the view etc but is a bit confusing. The motor noise from the windmills is also a distraction. (e-mail, 9/05) + As the update says, the wind farm is now established. (User, 8/06)

Walk 6: At the 1h45min point we followed the path into the valley bottom but found no left turns. We tried various path, but the way was obstructed by wire fences and barbed wire. (User, 1/06). [Editor's note: we wonder if this user missed any "Cretan" gates in the fencing.] + After 1h25min, the double bend sign is on the right, not the left. On page 73, the last para. needs a re-write. It is incorrect to say "At the bottom, turn L". We walked to the bottom and there were at least 3 L. turns; we had to turn back & retrace our steps. Instead, take the 1st left turn on descending, which swings past feeding troughs etc. Then go right & come up to a fence (crossable) with a padlocked gate immed. opposite. Turn left uphill & squeeze past a bush to go between 2 fences; it is very rough & overgrown. Finding the shady tree is fine, but we did not find the fork (Page 74 1st line). There are several collapsed walls, and in one place (by an olive tree), the path is blocked on the right by branches & has a strand of wire at garrotting height on the left. We managed to get up to the track (which is now a tarmaced road), though exit onto road means undignified scramble under a high fence. The road continues to Havgas, after which the surface deteriorates. They were busy working on this, so we suspect tarmac is not far away. The bus for Elounda stops outside Manolis taverna. (User, October 07) + Short walk:.Here is a new walk that can be combined with Short walk 6. Equipment: stout shoes (boots if you go all the way to the other side of Spinalonga). Walking time 1h50min return from Elounda. This walk from Elounda along the shore to the the larger Spinalong Island follows gravel tracks and is easy to find. From the large parking lot at the harbour follow the asphalted track going southeast along the shoreline past two cafeneions, heading towards the old stone windmills that can be seen in the southeast behind the bay on your left. From the Spinalonga Bridge (10min) you can see the goal of your walk to the left, behind the first hill in front of you - the track going up along the side of the island, past a water tank, towards the crest. After the bridge and the old windmills keep left along the northern shore of the island (30min), also when the track turns to the right up a little hill just before an old stone house. The track now has stone walls on each side. Stay on this track which later winds up the hill past a large water tank made of rocks. Continue to the top of the track (45min). You can go even further on the donkey trail, but it is overgrown. Return the same way. (User, 10/00)x

Walk 7: Many more loops in the track down than shown. It's a pity that this can't be rounded off with a return to Vasiliki.. We did part road part track to get back to the car, which we had left at Vasiliki. (User, 5/05)

Walk 9: We really enjoyed this walk once we had eventually found the path. We had a number of false starts. We were really puzzled by the expression 'in line with the church'. I think it means 'as far up the valley as the church' or something like that. We saw no water tank, but the book is fairly accurate in indicating the turn sharp right uphill at 5 minutes (the timing is vital as the waymarking is very poor; I made it just under 5min). The waymarking was very faint We thought it was significantly less than 15 minutes between the 30 min and 45 min pointsWe were then very puzzled by the instructions after the 45 min point. They say: 'The path moves out of the pines and meets a wide track'. What actually happens is that the path moves out of the pines and then , still waymarked, continues up the almost-bare mountainside for another 20-30 minutes (I didn't time it). You then meet the wide track, from which point we think it was rather less than 'just under an hour' to the sunmit (again I didn't time it, but I would guess about 30 minutes). The views were magnificent; it is a pity the lower part of the walk is so difficult to find. (User, 03)

Walk 11: After the 5 min stage, the guide describes a Donkey Track. On taking this we found that after approx 100 mtrs this has mostly collapsed. Equally the guide describes other donkey tracks to shorten the route up to the 'new church' (EG after the 18 min stage). We found that all of these subsequent donkey tracks are now completely overgrown. Therefore, the only way up this side of the mountain is to follow the main wide track, zig zagging its way up to the 'new church'. (This track may provide a gentle ascent up, however is quite long and if taken, walkers would have to considerably revise, all of their timings for the walk). Although we conducted a walk down this long zig zagging track on the western side of this mountain. We actually climbed up to the 'new church' on an alternative track. This travels on the eastern face of this mountain and we found this a more direct (if somewhat steeper) route up to the 'new church'. Markers for our route include a white shepherd's cottage with shrine (on the r/h side of track) at approx. 40 mins and a further shepherd's cottage (on the l/h side of the track) at approx 1 hr . Taking this route you can see across to the village of Tourloti for much of your ascent to the 'new church'. Additionally, although we are fairly experienced and fit walkers who normally have no difficulty in aligning our walking speed to meet timings described on other walks in various Sunflower Guides; however on this Walk 11, we found the suggested timings very demanding. As we progressed this walk we generally added approx a further 15% to all proposed time allocations. (User, 7/09)

Walk 12: We started at Kato Zakros and followed the waymarking, and returned the sane way. We thought we might have had difficulty following the instructions had we started at Zakros (and our return journey didn't seem to match the description - but maybe there is a different route?). (User, 03)

Walk 13: Another lovely gorge, if not as spectacular as Kritsa. After the 30 min-point, we failed to find the old donkey trail but did find our way back on to the asphalt road and the 'steep path on the other side of the road'. Alas, the path has been ploughed up soon after it begins. So we had to use the asphalt road to continue uphill. The 4-5 lines from bottom of page 99, it reads 'pick up the old trail again, on your right'. The guide should make it clear that this is above and to the right of the stream bed. We missed this and ended up trying to use the stream bed as the path (it starts by looking like a slightly overgrown path) and had to scramble up the steep sides to get out... Another important point that ought to be clarified (because we went wrong and had to retrace a considerable distance): on p 102, 5 lines from page bottom it reads 'Keep round to the right when a track joins from the left'. It is much more of the case that the track you follow has two tracks going off to the right, and it is the upper and broader one that is needed, which leads to the road to Agios Stefanos. (User, 2/05) + At 30 minutes the church is still there and is seen from about 150 yards down the road. Two newly built houses obscure it completely when you get closer. (User, 5/05) + As everyone has said in the updates, this is now confusing at the beginning. We found that the path behind the church at the beginning of the walk had been comletely obliterated by new olive terraces so we took to the asphalt, looking for any path to avoid the long zig-zags. However, the asphalt road has recently been widened and the hill side is now a steep cliff with no path visible. We couldn't get off the asphalt until the road turned inland high above Makrigialos and then we could follow the stream bed. Worth mentioning that if you have come from accommodation in Makrigialos and you want to return to Analipsi and the beach take the left turn mentioned 5 lines from the bottom on page 102. This brings you out through Aspro Potamos, along the river bank, under the unfinished Makrigialos bypass, over the main road and on to the beach! (e-mail, 9/05)

Walk 15: Having turned off the main road to the right at the hairpin, one must immediately leave the concrete track and keep left up a stony path. The 'small grassy track' is now a broad concrete track. (User, 8/06)

Walk 16: The guide and walk map describe a track which progresses diagonally NE close to Tzermiado. We found that farmers have now mainly ploughed up this track. However we found no difficulty in navigating our way across the plateau to Tzermiado, adopting a somewhat adhoc use of the numerous lattice of tracks which exist on this plateau. There is a monastery on the hill above Tzermiado, this is just about visible for most of the walk and provides an excellent beacon to guide you towards your destination. (User, 7/09)

Walk 18: The signs do not mention 'Agias Ariadnes. The signs on the road are to 'Timeos Stavros Church' and to 'Archaeological Site'. Having reached the Nisimos Plateau and passed the track to Timeos Stavros, the turn-off to the left which passes the Agias Ariadnes chapel is signposted 'Karfi Minoan Site'. This is on the crest of a ridge, on a col, looking down on the road up to Lasithii from Kera and not in the direction of Karfi mountain. At the turn-off there was a sign for Vrahasi pointing straight on across the plateau (and other signs for Vrahasi further on). (User, 8/06) + Last year, in the heat of July, we were unable to find the track which divides after the church of Agios Georgios and wandered around in heat for hours. Fortunately some workmen gave us a lift to the taxi rank in Sisi. (User, 6/09)

Walk 21: The 'Iron Gates' are not as spectacular as one might think - far more than 3m wide and nowhere near 300m deep. The walk (entrance fee about 5 euros) starts at about 1225m (not 1300m) and drops to about 100m at the Gates. The steps at the start of the walk do NOT drop 1000m in the first 2km; the initial drop is more like 400m over the first 2km, leaving another 6-700m over the next 10km. (comments on the web, 3/06)

WALK SUGGESTIONS
from Palecastro
These waymarked walks are highly recommended by a user (10/97)
- from the church at Hohlakies down the canyon (in the riverbed) to Ormos Karoumbes, where there is a good beach. 1h30min each way
- Palecastro to Vai (return by bus)
- Palecastro to Toplou Monastery (about 3h30min-4h.

Apartment near Ierapetra: We should like very much to inform your readers about our most inexpensive self-catering accommodation available all year around in a hill village just two kilometres from Ierapetra on the South-East coast of Crete. Stays can be for as little as one night, as part of a planned walk schedule - or for much longer, as an ideal base for the area, staying in a scenic and typically Cretan community. Contact details are as follows: website: www.perfect-crete.com; email address:
seagemvilla@netscape.net (e-mail, 6/07)