Sunflower Books: Landscapes of GRAN CANARIA: WALKS AND CAR TOURS

Gran Canaria, 5th Edition (February 2009), updated 14/02/11

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Updates for walks and car tours (drives) on Gran Canaria given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

Where to stay: The Parador on Cruz de Tejeda is now open and very beautiful. Rooms and views are tremendous, buth the food was not up to much unfortunately. (e-mail, 5/10) + I think its worth telling people to stay in Triana if staying in Las Palmas- The beach area is a long way from the bus station you need for the walks and personally I wouldn't want to drive in the city... I think you might warn people off staying in St Nicholas. It looks like an attractive place to stay on the map, but must be the ugliest country town I've ever come across... The Molina de Agua in San Bartolme can be booked via booking.com, as can a number of the more expensive hotels. But it doesn't get very good reviews. On the other hand it is the only hotel in the centre of the village and right next to the bus stop for both routes through the village... I know it isn't your usual policy, but it is so hard to find affordable accommodation that has easy access to walks without a very long bus journey that I would consider putting more information in this guide. (User, 1/11)

Signposting: This has improved greatly since the guide was written, although sometimes signposts are only erected at junctions with roads. (User, 1/11)

Buses: Timetable 20, Bus 18: this left at 14.00, not 13.10. (User, 4/09); Bus 220 has a mistake:
Artenara to Teror, leaves 20.15 (ok), but the other times are wrong (it arrives in Teror on 20.05 ... (User, 1/11)
+ Download any timetables that are particularly important to you before you go, especially if staying in Las Palmas. Almost every time I was there the information office had a queue at least half an hour long, even to pick up leaflets, with security guards controlling access. The bus station at Santa Catalina may be easier to get information from. I think it is worth saying that the bus station at Santa Catalina is a little hard to find. It is not in the square itself, but hidden underground between the sea and the museum... I couldn't find any information about any kind of carnet or advance purchase that offers reductions for tourists and my enquiries met with blank looks. If anyone knows different and can say where such tickets can be bought I'd love to know for next year... There have been a number of changes to the timetables. Most important are: 102 now leaves Los Berrazales 10 minutes later...103/105 Between the two routes there is now a bus every 20 minutes between Galdar and Las Palmas, but the buses often run late, because of the large number of people getting on and off and congestion in Las Palmas. This may be important if you want to connect with the 101 or 102. Allow at least an hour... 220 The Sundays and holidays 8.15 bus from Las Palmas to Artenara does not, alarmingly, show up on any of the digital displays at San Telmo bus station. It does, however run and leaves from the bus stand for Teror. It does not stop at Lanzarote for 10 minutes but does stop for 20 minutes at Teror. You have to buy one ticket to Teror, get off, and then get on again, buying a second ticket... 18. Most northbound buses run 15 minutes earlier. Only 3 buses go via La Culata (see latest timetable) Monday to Friday and they are all southbound buses. However it may be possible to make a connection by changing at the junction for la Culata. You can do this on the last bus, which leaves La Culata just after 4.30, changing at the Road end for the San Mateo bus, which comes along a couple of minutes later. There do not seem to be any buses to La Culata on Saturdays. (User, 1/11)

Picnic 16: No longer possible; access from Los Palmitos Park has been permanently blocked.

Walk 5: I did part of this walk., which was as described. (User, 1/11)

Walk 6: I did all of this walk. On page 59, after reaching Las Cuevas, it says: Immediately after a garage on the right, turn left... Just before the garage there is now a new, signposted track which descends to the original track below the garage. It was a bit slippery. Obviously, the garage owner has obstructed the old route; passage is now forbidden. (User, 1/11) + The walk is now signposted up to the road above Teror. It may be worth getting a bus from here. The 220 runs quite regularly from here, normally from Lanzarote. (User, 1/11)

Walk 7: A user could not find the start of this walk; however, there is a user's track through the Barranco de la Mina shown on Google Earth with an accompanying picture showing a signpost 'Deg. Becerra, PR GC-02', which we assume is at the start of the walk. (Sunflower, 2/10) + In the Barranco de la Mina (page 62) "the path passes between two boulders...". I did not see any boulders, but just continue on the the main route; there is no problem. The same applies for the description end page 62/top of page 63: I just continued the on the main path, tried to find a cave (climbing up on the left), saw some caves, but it would have been easier just to continue the upstream part of the canyon. From the mirador de Becerra on, I did the Alternative walk. Starting from Becerra, there is a new (?) track, a much better alternative then following the GC150 road. The track is singposted, climbing to the left along the crest. I did not see how walk 8 continues here (it should split off from the walk 7). (User, 1/11) + The start of Walk 7 is clearly marked from the road. There is a bus stop at the start. This may be better than walking along the busy narrow road. I didn't understand the above comments on the Alternative walk, which was, I thought, exactly as described in the guide. (User, 1/11)

Walk 8: I did part of this walk. On page 66, "Leaving the village, descend steps from the parking area...": There is a big construction site here now. The path still exists, but no doubt there will be some change. There are signposts from one of the PR's. (User, 1/11) + This walk is not to be missed, giving high-level views without too much effort. It's easily accessible by parking (or staying, there are two small hotels) in Tejeda and taking the bus or taxi to Cruz de Tejeda. You would have to suffer from vertigo quite badly to be bothered by any of this walk, but walking boots are a must for the loose and uneven surface on several sections. One update or clarification as follows: After the 1hr20min point (p66) turn left down shallow steps on to a cobbled path. After a minute or so the path meets a concrete track at a house. Turn left on the track, turn right at the junction and go under a wire frame with climbing plants, then turn immediately left downhill on a concrete path with green handrails. (User, 1/11)

Walk 9: On page 67 its says "When in Fontanales, in Calle la Montaneta, "just after house number 7, turn left a wide track (concreted at the outset). The way narrows", etc. After about 120 meter, this track becomes a dead end since the recent construction of a large water reservoir. I couldn't find out where the track continues beyond the water tank. (User 1/10) + The user's comment of 1/10 is not correct. The track, concreted at first, turns right behind the house, and just continues as described. (User, 1/11)

Walk 11: I have just returned from 6 days in Gran Canaria, mainly to enjoy the beach and the sun for a well earned rest, and decided to undertake a couple of the hikes in your book. Absolutely fantastic! To access this walk from Playa del Ingles, I took the bus which went from Faro de Maspalomas to Arinaga and got off at El Cruce de Arinaga. The driver advised me to cross the road and wait at the opposite bus stop (at a rather desolate junction) for the bus from Arinaga to Aguimes. Sure enough, about 15 minutes later along came a bus. I imagine that had I stayed on the bus all the way to Arinaga itself, then the departure of the Aguimes bus would be timed as a connection. I had to take a taxi to Montana de las Tierras which cost about 10¤. The walk was spectacular and easy to follow. The larger dog at the second house is a proper guard dog on a long chain which extends to about 10 feet away from you as you walk between him on your right and the house on the left. The dog does jump and swings around on the chain. At 2h40min the descent starts down a worn shepherd's path through the tunnel of vegetation. This part is great fun as the vegetation is shoulder- to head height and as indicated is mainly viper's bugloss (tinajaste azul). The path is worn and gravelly so it's very easy to slip backwards. The descent is long and certainly painful on the knees by the end. I was did this walk on 26th April and the tinajaste azul was just at the end of blooming. This would have been absolutely spectacular in bloom about 2 weeks prior and indeed in Valsequillo there were local council posters for walks up into it. Obviously a Canarian equivalent of daffodils in the Lake District. Please recommend this walk from late March to late April. The last bus back to Telde went at around 18:15 and connected with another to Maspalomas. (User, 5/10)

Walk 14: The buildings at Casas del Fondo are all ruined; the eucalyptus trees are flourishing. Important: After the 2h30min-point, the text should read, 'After six minutes, where the road bends almost 90° to the LEFT, turn sharp RIGHT down a path'. (Sunflower, 2/2010) + The gate mentioned at just past the 1 hour point (page 84) has a sign saying open 0800 to 1700 hours - walkers need to bear this in mind ontheir return from the bottom of the crater. (User, 12/10)

Walk 15: As described. The wild flowers from Degollada de la Manzanilla were glorious. (User, 4/09) + About 400 metres south of Cruz Grande there is a path to the left which rises above the track and returns to it after the junction. It offers more varied walking and better views. There are no junctions on the path. (User, 1/11) + At the start of the walk, climb Padre Claret and at the top of the street turn left on Calle Corazon de Jesus. Remain on this street (later called Calle de San Juan) until you pass below the cemetery and come to a junction opposite a school. Walk just a few metres to the left, then turn right on Calle Juglar Fabian Torres, running just to the left of the school. (Sunflower, 2/11)

Walk 16, IMPORTANT: The path down from the 5h25min point to the Los Palmitos bus has been permanently blocked. The latest update from a user (April 2009) reads: "I took the 2nd track on the right just before the mirador; a sign reads "no cars/bikes/walkers". Further down a sign says "private camino, no entry", There is then a "no walkers" sign at the hotel gates (but those gates are easy to walk through, so I tip-toed past). Only to be confronted by a pair of large, high, solid electric gates just at the side of the entrance to Los Palmitos Park; I could see the bus stop just 10m away! I was lucky, some workmen activated the gates, so I legged it through. (User 4/09) + The PR GC 40 marking leads to the bus stop at Aqualand - another 7km. Unless you are willing to a) pay about 20 euros per person to visit Los Palmitos OR b) walk another 7km (PR GC 40 is the longest PR route on the island), it is best to end the walk in Ayagaures by calling a taxi or, better still, pre-arranging one in advance. (Sunflower) + Further to the gates, an e-mail from Conny Spelbrink (April 2009) reads: 'Re access to the Palmitos Park bus stop, I know the situation very well - just 3 days ago I inquired about whether this lovely hotel was open or not, as I couldn't find any telephone numbers or further info. I had stayed at the hotel many times; it was one of my favourites in Gran Canaria, well away from the tourists and surrounded by peace and quiet, right next to the Palmitos bird park. The hotel was partly burned down in the big forest fires 2-3 years ago and apparently there is a court case pending (or other legal matters), with the result that the hotel has not been renovated and has not been re-opened at all. To prevent people getting onto the property they apparently have put up big gate which blocks access to the bus stop.' (Sunflower) + It is possible to walk to Arteare instead of Los Palmitos. The walk in the woods is less scenic but the final descent to Arteara is fantastic. Using the morning bus we had time to buy a refreshment in the kiosk in the camel park before getting on the 16.21 bus back south. The timetable corresponds to a rather senior couple of walkers. Younger and more fit walkers will be much faster, especially in the descent. The walk is shown (correctly!) on the Kompass map. I have found it in "Trail Guide. Villa de San Bartolomede Tirajana" which may be obtained at the tourist office in Puerto Rico. (User, 10/10). Description: Follow walk 16 beyond Degollada de la Manzilla (1h15min) but ignore the right turn 10 minutes later, continuing on the track. Ignore a path to the right (1h33min) when the track bends left to cross the upper end of Barranco de los Vicentes. The woods have been badly damaged by fire but new small trees have been planted. Ignore several tracks to the left. At a nice junction (1h55min) ignore a track to the right. It leads to a house which comes into view shortly after on your right when continuing straight on. Turn left DOWNHILL at a junction (2h10min). The track descends in enormous hairpins down into the Barranco de los Vincentillos and passes to the other side on a concrete bridge (2h23min). Shortly after you can walk a few steps up left to Degollada de la Yegua to get a fine view of Barranco de Fataga. Continue with the narrow and severe barranco on your right. It widens eventually and you see some distant houses at the right, Casas de Ayagaures Alto (2h45min). The track starts climbing, eventually quite steeply. The ascent ends in an S-curve at Morro de Achebuche (3h). The track comes to an end at a turning place (3h10min). Continue straight ahead on a path flanked by a black plastic water pipe. You leave the woods, the path first climbs a bit and then descends onto a ridge still accompanied by the water pipe. The level path ends (3h25min) and the descent starts to the left. The path is cut into the yellow rock and zigzags down a valley with two barrancos. The path flattens out, you pass the upper ends of the two barrancos and you descend to a plain, the Degollada de Garito, with newly planted trees and an irrigation system. The path is less obvious here but it passes just to the left of two pine trees ahead of you in some distance. Standing beside the pine trees (3h55min) you get a fantastic view into Barranco de Fataga. Arteara, your goal, is far down in front of you, and the white houses of Fataga are sitting up to the left. You first descend on a camino built into a very steep slope, quite a fine piece of engineering. Next you get on a ridge (4h) leading steeply down towards brown boulders - look out for loose gravel, walking sticks are useful here! The path is less clear when you get down in the boulders, but it is well marked with white paint splashes, cairns and occational yellow marks. Looking carefully for the marks is even more important when you get down into white boulders with vegetation (4h20min) - long trousers are nice here. You pass a concrete water pipe dug down into the ground (4h35min). A large empty water channel is passed at a place where it is covered, and you get down on the dirt road from Ayagaures used in walk 19 (4h50min). Turn left and walk a short distance on the right-hand side of the road looking out for a metal water pipe lying on the ground after a few meters. Follow the water pipe away from the road and look out for a house down to the right (there are crossing water pipes here). Scramble down through abandoned fields towards the house (there is no path). Pass to the left of the house and get on the Arteara village road where you turn left. Follow the road out of the village, turn left and go past the camel park to the bus stop (5h15min).

Walk 17: The walk can not be completed as described. Shortly after the 3h15min point there is a very large (recently built?) dam at Presa de Bernardino which can not be passed as described. You should instead use the GC 604 road i.e. go straight out at the "telephone kiosk" (2h45min). The road is very scenic and there are very few cars. The text on page 95 lines 10-12 should read: you cross a ditch on a bridge just before reaching the road at Embalse de Chira (2h15min) - the handrails of the bridge are visible in the distance. It should be possible to avoid the asphalt along the Embalse de Chira as follows: At the enclosed water tank (page 95, line 6) you go to the northeastern side (opposite the entry road) to find a path beside some water pipes. Follow this path for almost 2km to a track leading left down between two water tanks to the telephone kiosk on GC 604. (User, 10/10) + At the end of this walk, if you find there is a long time to wait for the next bus you could take the GC 60 to the left (towards Ayacata) and walk 1km to Bar La Candellila (shown on the KOMPASS map) and wait for the bus here. (User, 11/10)

Walks 17/18: Walks 17/18, in Cercados de Arana. The telephone kiosk has gone, but the junction is the one with the main sign pointing into the village ('centro urbano'). The bar/restaurant was still closed and up for sale (Jan 2011), but the sign 'Finca-Privado' is no longer there: the track leads past house no. 27, Casa Meijas. Alternative walk suggestion, combining walks 17 and 18: Park in Cercados de Arana (possibly at the bar/restaurant, if it is still closed) and follow Walk 17 to the prickly pear enclosure, where turn left rather than right. Follow the track, which meanders across the plateau before passing close to a pylon. Ignore two right turns (to Las Casas and La Cueva) before turning right by stepping over a rusty chain across a track. This is the 4hr50min point of Walk 18, which can now be reversed as far as you want (remembering that you have to climb back up to finish the walk). Finding the path over the rock section in reverse is not easy and requires some careful scrambling: allow plenty of time. The reward is a good refreshment stop on the far side of the Soria dam. (If you just want a view of Soria, don't turn right at the chain but follow the track to its end at a red and white radio mast, then turn right for about 100m and climb a small outcrop currently marked by a white stone. Although it's possible to scramble down a
little further here for a better view, there is no way on: it ends in a sheer drop). Returning the same way, come to the pylon and look out for a faint track to the right. Follow this until you see a small pool with a stone dam and, to its right, a pipeline with a concrete wall. Scramble down to the pool and cross the dam, then ascend the hill in front of you for a splendid view across the Embalse de Chira and its dam. Scramble down, heading just to the right of the dam, clamber over the concrete channel, and turn left on the path to walk across the dam. Return on the road next to the lake as for Walk 17. I didn't make notes for reversing Walk 18, so at the moment can only recommend the descent to Soria for experienced and sure-footed walkers without fear of heights. With the diversion to Soria I'd classify this as fairly strenuous, while the circuit of Chira is easy apart from the section from the track to the dam. (User, 1/11)

Walk 19, IMPORTANT: The end of this walk follows the end of Walk 16; see Update above! + I have just returned from 6 days in Gran Canaria, mainly to enjoy the beach and the sun for a well earned rest, and decided to undertake a couple of the hikes in your book. Absolutely fantastic! I missed the last morning bus from Playa del Ingles to San Bartolome for the start of walk 19 at Arteara so took a bus to Palmitos Park instead to do the walk in reverse, only to find the road up to Helga Mastoff's tennis retreat hotel still closed. Perhaps it would have been possible to squeeze round the side of the electric gate. The distance back down the Barranco to the fork for the road back up to Ayagaures was 4km, then another 4km walk up to Ayagaures itself so I took a taxi from Palmitos Park (10¤) and started at the dam. If you decide to recommend this walk in reverse then I would suggest the Palmitos Park bus from Playa as far as Aqualanda, then a taxi to Ayagaures. The walk in reverse was spectacular. Please put in a mention about the cascade and pool in a cave (deep enough for a dip and very shaded and cool on that particular day when a 35°C calima was blowing) situated 1 minute up a little track at the apex of the Barranco de Vicentillos. A great place for a picnic. Once in the Barranco de Fataga I missed the turn off for the path leading down to the Guanche necropolis but could see the white bus shelter on the right in the distance at Arteara and so had to scramble downhill through scrub then over the barranco bed past the camel ranch and up onto the road. I caught the last bus from San Bartolome to Maspalomas opposite the white bus shelter at about 18:23. It had left San Batolome at 18:10. (User, 5/10) + It is possible to do this walk in the opposite direction: The simplest way down to Arteara is as follows: Continue on the track past the Guanche Cemetery - a scree of brown boulders with a small white house and the GC 80 highway in the background. At a large bend to the left look out to the right for a metal water pipe lying on the ground. Follow the water pipe away from the road and look out for a house down to the right (there are crossing water pipes here). Scramble down through abandoned fields towards the house (there is no path). Pass to the left of the house and get on the Arteara village road where you turn left. Follow the road out of the village, turn left and go past the camel park to the bus stop. (User, 10/10)

Walk 21: A terrific walk. The pine forest is regenerating itself very well by November 2010 after the fire (comments on alternative walk on page 105) and we would recommend doing the original circuit. (User, 12/10)

Walk 22: it is possible to do this from Playa del Ingles rather than stay at San Nicolas overnight. Bus number 1 from San Fernando to Puerto de Mogan leaves weekdays at 06:07 opposite the "4" (post office) on the Playa map (on the GC 500) and takes 40 minutes, connecting with the 06:45 and 07:00 number 38 bus in Puerto de Mogan for San Nicolas. I shall do this walk next time I visit the island. For future editions, I would suggest including more timetables and connections for those hikers staying in the Maspalomas area. (User, 5/10)

Walk 23: Both buses now leave from 100 metres south of of the roundabout on the town side of the road. There is a stop on the park side, but this is only used for arrivals. (User, 1/11)

Walks 24 (and 26): On page 125, the walk starts in the direction of the Cementerio. That is still correct, but on the place where the descriptions says "Just in sight of the cemetery, when the road forks (15 min)..." the situation has changed, because a new helicopter landing area has been constructed. Not difficult, just keep left, and you will reach the small parking area. Here 24 takes the right (higher) track, 26 takes the left (lower) of the two almost parallel tracks. (User, 1/11)

Walk 25: Most of this route is now signposted. A new path, local route 10, now runs from Walk 24 west of Brezos where the path meets the road. It runs north above the road to Las Cuevas and la Coruna, allowing a more scenic alternative. However this walk is a tight fit between the 10.20 Sundays arrival at Artenara and the 3.40 departure from Las Berrazales. Do not underestimate the time it will take to go between El Hornillo and El Sao. The walk from the Valley up to El Hornillo and back would be a good short walk and would fit in well with the bus times. (User, 1/11)

Walk 26: See under Walk 24.

General (accommodation, etc): Below we reproduce some notes (received in 2004) from an enthusiast which may prove of interest. Below "Camping facilities" are more thoughts received from a user in 2011.
Here are some comments on accomodation and transport for Gran Canaria hikers who prefer rural accomodation and who don't want to hire a car.
As you can see on the Kompass Karte 1/50000 (www.kompass.at <http://www.kompass.at> ) the area west of the axe Maspalomas - Tejeda - Agaete is scarcely populated (contrary to the north-eastern site). As there is a good bus connection between Maspalomas and Cruz de Tejeda, (bus 18), I think it is a good idea to look for a hiking base along that axe.
7 km southeast of Agaete, at Los Berrazales, there is a hotel called Hotel Princesa Guarmina, www.hotelguayarmina.com <http://www.hotelguayarmina.com> . It is a good 2 stars family hotel, where the service is very friendly and the food delicious and copious. But its location is not so good if you want to discover the central and southern parts of the island by bus.
Hotel El Refugio (928 666513) at Cruz de Tejeda (1510 m. altitude) is a rural hostelry that can make a good base for a few day's walking; but if you're on a longer walking holiday I should advise to look out for a somewhat less expensive hotel.
At the mountain village Tejeda (1100 m) we slept in Restaurante/Bar Tejeda, tel 928 666055, 25 euro for a nice room with bathroom. If you prefer an apartment, then go to Restaurante/Bar Gayfa, tel 928 666230, 30 euro per night (and perhaps less if you're staying longer than 3 nights).
At San Bartolome there is a luxury 4 stars hotel overlooking the immense barranco de Tiranjana, called Las Tiranjanas, www.hotel-lastirajanas.com <http://www.hotel-lastirajanas.com> .. The busstop is only at 5 min.walking from the hotel.
Fataga, situated at 600 m altitude, seems me to be a very good hiking base. The Fataga barranco is very beautiful, its bed is full of palmtrees. The village is on the bus line 18 (Maspalomas - (Cruz de) Tejeda. As for accomodation you can find:
- bar Albaricoque: it has 2 appartments, the one with te terrace costs 25 euros a day, the other one 20 euros a day. You have to add 5 euros a day if you're staying 3 nights or less. Tel. 928 798654
- on the web I found 3 casas rurales, situated in the village: 1. Falcon, www.ecoturismocanarias.com/grancanaria/falcon <http://www.ecoturismocanarias.com/grancanaria/falcon> 2+3. Villa Pino Diaz A+B, www.ecoturismocanarias.com/grancanaria/es <http://www.ecoturismocanarias.com/grancanaria/es>
- a British couple living at Fataga offers Bed and Breakfast; see www.fincabritanica.com <http://www.fincabritanica.com>
- there is also a rural hotel called Molino del Agua; the website address seems to be www.molinodefataga.com <http://www.molinodefataga.com> , but neither myself nor the Tourist Office at Maspalomas (cit@grancanaria.com) could at 07-05-04 open that website. So I give here their phone number 928 172089, and fax their fax number 928172244.
Some 8 km northwest of Maspalomas there is a Park and Sport hotel Los Palmitos, www.lospalmitos.com <http://www.lospalmitos.com> Its location is mouthwatering, and it is connected by bus to Maspalomas; but to have to take into account that its prices are rather high, as they offer a range of sporting facilities.
Camping facilities: we had a look at some of the (for free) camping grounds of the Forestry Autority. Tamadaba + Llanos de Garanon (east of Tejeda) disappointed me because mobile homes and caravans are allowed, and they are situated at 1200 and 1600 m altitude, so it can be rather cold up there. But we met a small camping ground near the Casa Forestal del Cruz Grande, that looked attractive to us: only for tents, and the busstop of the line Maspalomas - Tejeda is at less than one kilometer! Ask the Forest Service for a permit in advance!