La Palma & El Hierro walking and touring (driving)

Sunflower Books: Landscapes of LA PALMA AND EL HIERRO: WALKS AND CAR TOURS

5th edition (February 2009), updated 3/2/2010

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Updates for walks and car tours (drives) given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

LA PALMA

Urgent, January 2010: "We had tremendous rainfalls just before and around Christmas, destroying tracks, roads, houses etc, especially in the south, the area around Fuencaliente, because of extreme erosion caused by the burning of the underbrush during the forest fires in the same area in July (see below). The road between Fuencaliente and Los Llanos by Los Charcos has disappeared, and the government expects that repair work will take at least half a year. So any traffic from Fuencaliente to Los llanos needs to go via Las Breñas or the road near Santa Cruz (through the centre of the island). Also, during at least two weeks ALL the tracks on the entire island were officially closed. Little by little certain hikes are opening again, but part of the Caldera is still closed, ALL THE HIKES around Fuencaliente (the burnt area) are closed. Marcos y Cordero, is partly closed. I have also seen a newspaper report that the island has been "chucked out" of the European Hikers' Association for not opening shelters and keeping up the paths properly maintained. So all the green/white, yellow/white, red/white signs are being taken down and replaced by red signs. (Conny Spelbrink of La Palma, 1/10) Forest fires: There were very serious fires on the island in July. But the village of Fuencaliente in the far south has suffered serious damage and a number of houses have been burnt. The pines tend to recover in a minimum of time, but it still means that during at least a number of years one can clearly see that the trees have been burnt. See Walks 8 and 9 below. (Conny Spelbrink of La Palma, 7/09)

Flights: Iberia also offers flights to La Palma from Heathrow - via the Spanish mainland and Gran Canaria. See www.iberia.com. (User 6/09)

Coastal "restaurants": Almost all the restuarants on the coast have disappeared. The authorities do not allow any construction anymore near the ocean. So places like Kiosko El Faro and also Kiosko Puntalarga are gone, also the bars and small restaurants on Playa Nueva. Still standing are the ones near El Remo. Lots of people who had sheds on the coast have been forced to abandon them without compensation (most were illegally built). But is does mean that there are not many of these lovely typical places left. So El Remo is still ok, and of course the "proper" restaurants in Puerto Naos, Tazacorte, Puerto Espindola, Fajana de Barlovento and a small Kiosko above Playa Zamorra in Fuencaliente. That is about all on the coast. (Conny Spelbrink of La Palma, 2009) + Message: I have spotted a mistake in the above: Kiosko Puntagorda is still alive and kicking. In addition, there are still kioskos in Playa Zamora, Playa Salemera and Bombilla. (Brian, Puntagorda, La Palma, 1/10).

Car tour 2: In order to go to the Cumbrecita by car, you now HAVE to pass by the Visitors Centre first and pick up an access number . Access is now limited. In the Riachuelo barranco there is a guard post and they will not let anybody through (in the
mornings) without a proper entrance number. No cost is involved. (Conny Spelbrink of La Palma, 2009)

Walk 2: The bar in Gallegos closes at 14.30, reopens at 17.30. (User, 6/09)

Walk 4: Might be worth considering doing this stunning walk in reverse, as I found the cIimb to the watercourse less arduous when doing the walk in this direction than the the route suggested in the book. (User, 6/09) + At the 55min-point, 'As you approach Los Tilos, look for a track...' should now read: 'When you reach the information hut of the foresters, next to the track...' (there is still talk of having to pay to enter the forest here - it's still under discussion- but walks may have to pay to get onto that track). Also, along the canal, most dangerous points have now been secured with wooden hand rails, so it is a lot safer than before... About a month ago, it was rumoured that they might close the path along the canal completely (!), because it leads through these water tunnels, and nowadays there are new rules and regulations for "water mines". These regulations should not affect La Palma, BUT it is a grey area, so they were talking about the possibilitiy of closing the path. The reaction of the foresters was NO WAY. But walkers should be aware of the ppossibility, though I don't really think anything will happen. (Conny Spelbrink of La Palma, 8/09)

Walk 6, Alternative walk 1: If you are not exhausted when you have reached Refugio El Pilar, we recommend that you continue along GR131 until SL EP104 and take that interesting path back to walk 6.1, to rejoin where the main walk crosses the road LP203. (User, 2008)

Walk 7: Another alternative walk is to take the bus to the Visitors Centre and walk up PR LP 14 to the plateau where it meets with SL EP 101 at a signpost. Then follow SL EP 101 and if desired divert onto SL EP 102 to go to the top of Montana Henrique before carrying on down the 101 to a small village near El Paso by a very pleasant camino. Return by bus from El Paso. All paths are safe and well marked. (User, 2008) + We took the alternative walk 7 mentioned in the updates from The Visitors Centre to El Paso, directions as in updates to Tacande then turn left along a quiet road (pavement) to the main road then left into El Paso. Good walk using bus. (e-mail, 12/09)

Walk 8: Remember that you have to pay at the Visitors Center, even if you just want to walk past it. A guide there told us, that we were not allowed to walk along the canal south from Roque Teneguia. A bus, A 31, go from Faro to Los Canarios every two hours, from 09.45 till 19.45. (Users, 2/09, 6/09) [Editor: If walking along the canal is not allowed, there must be another waymarked or signposted route; unfortunately this user does not explain.] + Bad news: There is no longer a restaurant at Faro de Fuencaliente - so bring your own lunch! See under "Restaurants" above. + The forest fires of July 2009 may have affected parts of this walk. (Conny Spelbrink of La Palma, 8/09) + We encountered no problems, didn't need to pay at the visitors centre (just said we were walking to the Faro). We extended the walk by starting from the bus stop at Montes de Luna and walking up the steep road behind the bus stop to pick up the GR130 route to Los Canarios then followed walk 8 to the Faro and caught the bus back to los Canarios (2 hourly); total walk approx 10 miles. (e-mail, 12/09)

Walk 9: Afteer the 4h35min-point "take the lower, left-hand track". 30min along this track, ignore a fork to the left. (User, 6/09) + The forest fires of July 2009 have affected parts of this walk. (Conny Spelbrink of La Palma, 7/09)

Walk 10 : This is not for your update but for your information. We saw the start of a new route up Pico Bejenado from La Cumbrecita but did not have time to assess this or another new route from La Cumbrecita round to a mirador on the west ridge of Pico Bejenado above the road from Los Llanos into the Barranco de las Angustias. The difficult and potentially dangerous route into the campsite from La Cumbrecita was blocked by rockfalls and the path between the two Miradors at Cumbrecita had eroded at two points where there were slippery exposures to drops making it moderately dangerous. The problems with these paths in the very crumbly and slippery terrain arouses suspicions about the negotiability of the two new ones until they have been assessed. (User, 3/08) [Editor's note: We are not sure why this user did not want this added to the update, as it might be helpful for anyone wanting to try the new paths.] + We followed the newish path up Pico Bejenade from Cumbreceita - park at Cumbreceita (need to collect a free pass from Visitors Centre as parking is limited so get there early), then follow clear path up and back approx 4hours. Excellent views into crater and across El Paso to West coast. (e-mail, 12/09)

Walk 11: The Jeeptaxi to Los Brecitos costs 10 euros per person! The fencing en route looked newly made or repaired and was in good condition. We never made it to the Cascada Colorada, as there was too much water in the gorge - we would have had to wade through ice-cold water. The descent in the Barranco de las Angustias was relatively hard. At the place where you have to leave the barranco to the right, there were signs saying "private, no entry". Shortly before the parking area there was also a high barrier to be got over, since there way too much water in the barranco to follow it. The walk was beautiful, but maybe not suitable in winter because there is too much water? (e-mail, 2/06) [Sunflower comments: We are certainly surprised by the "private, no entry" signs, since this walk was rechecked just before publication. We await any further news from users of this new edition.] + We still regard this walk as the best on the island and the equal of many of the world's great walks. It has been considerably improved and made safer than ten years ago when the stretch down to the ravine from the campsite had eroded missing parts in the path with exposure to vertiginous drops as you tried to negotiate them. There are also clear notices now . There was a sad accident last year that got considerable publicity but this was caused by someone deliberately leaving the path. The Jeeptaxi to Los Brecitos costs 51 euros shared between all the passengers - I think it would take six people. The apparent detour to the right marked 'private, no entry' does not seem to be one of the detours mentioned in your book and indeed there is no need to leave the barranco here. (User, 3/08) + Taxi for 4 to Los Brecitos cost 52 Euros - quite expensive! This walk can get very crowded with guided groups. To escape them for a while, take the left fork on p.91 - steep but fine if you're sure-footed. (User, 7/08) + Be aware that sections of the route can be ciosed from time to time because ot path maintenance. Check with the tourist office before setting out. (User, 6/09) + ACCESS, IMPORTANT: The only way of getting to Los Brecitos is by taxi if you want to do the full described walk. (In the past, many people used to take their cars to Los Brecitos, park, do part of the hike and return to los Brecitos again to pick up the car.) NOW, NO PARKING ALLOWED IN LOS BRECITOS. Also, the cost of a 4-seater taxi (the largest available at present) is now · 51 euros. On page 90, the descent is now partly paved and so a lot easier than before. Page 92. In the middle of the barranco, near Moro de la Era, there is a tremendous rockfall covering the complete barranco floor, the track enteres the barranco a bit further down now, in order to avoid this rockfall. Also, note: every year the barranco changes shape, and pools that were there one year may not be there the next! (Conny Spelbrink of La Palma, 8/09)

Walk 12: Why not return to Los Llanos along the GR 130? After 1 km along the tarred road in the barranco, cross the foot bridge and follow the white and red signs back to Los Llanos along a nice mule path. (User, 2/06) + Under grade it says "easy descent". Although this is a short walk it is a very steep descent and you will be working hard against the gradient too avoid picking up too much momentum. (User, 2008)

Walk 14: at the 45min-point, there is a GR X (for wrong way) on our route. Our route is perfectly viable, but follow the GR if you prefer. Similarly, after the 1h15min-point, the signs are sometimes missing for the GR turn-off to the right; if you miss them, just follow the road (as in the book). (Sunflower, 2/06) + The signpost at 1h15min point has been reinstated. Also the path leaves the road to the left half a kilometer before this point and then rejoins the road just before the signpost. (User, 3/08) + The GR 'X' route at the 45min-point (in between the two houses) is rather overgrown, and it appears that walkers are encouraged to follow the GR to the road and pick up the ongoing route from there... At Tinizara, if you've time and energy left, why not continue to Puntagorda on the GR130? The route is clearly waymarked and continues across the road from the shop/bar. It makes for a pleasant walk and is thoroughly recommended! Add 1h30min to the existing timings. (User, 6/09) + The supermarkets in Tijarafe are Antonio and Coopmax. The walk should begin 50m uphill from boat Mata de Candelaria turn left...... otherwise a very straightforward and pleasant walk. (e-mail, 12/09)

Walk 15: p105, 3rd line: "Take the path descending to the right (signpost: RT TRAVIESA )"; this should read "Take the second path descending to the right "(both paths descend to the right and both are signposted RT TRAVIESA !)... p105, 3rd para, 3rd line: "Take the path down the left-hand side of the ridge". This path is difficult to locate and, once on it, rather overgrown - clearlv not used by many walkers. With your back to the windmill, head towards a red/brown freight storage container. To its left is the start of the path... Just before you reach the floor of the barranco (where the Buracas Caves are) there was, at the time of walking (4/09), a cafe called 'Finca Aloe', serving drinks and light refreshments. (User, 6/09)

EL HIERRO

Buses: There is now a new fleet of buses and good services. All bus journeys cost just 1 euro or less with bono ticket available at Valverde bus station. The bus between Frontera and Valverde no longer goes over the mountains as it uses the tunnel. Therefore walks 19 and 20 cannot be started from the bus.

Car tour: The village of Pozo de Las Calcosas is still being restored, and I would not currently describe it as having been beautifully restored. (User, 2/10)

Walk 18: The Camino de Jinama down to Las Puntas is often closed due to landslides and rockfalls. It was closed in March 2009; a user suggests doing Alternative walk 1 instead. Date of reopening unknown. (Sunflower)

Walks 19, 20, IMPORTANT: See under buses above.

New walk suggestions: Having just got back from a wonderful trip to El Hierro I would like to suggest a couple of new walks we found to fellow Sunflower users. The walks described in the Sunflower guide are all up in the Cumbre which is often in cloud, therefore we found our own lovely little walks lower down the Island in the sun! The Island has been very recently done up for walkers, there are many good signposted and way marked footpaths which are very easy to follow. However many do seem to involve very steep and long climbs/desents. The yellow and red walking routes are shown on the free map you can pick up on the Fred Olson ferry.
Arenas Blancas - easy, flat, 1.5hrs. At the North West end of the Island is Arenas Blancas, an unusual area of white sand. There is a car park and signpost for Arenas Blancas. From here is the start of a path which is very clear because it has stones lining either side of it. The path follows west along the cliff edge winding around the jagged lava coastline. The views of the volcanic cliff behind are spectacular and the coastline itself is very interesting, with many arches and blow holes, particularly spectacular on a rough day when the waves are splashing up against the rocks. The terrain changes from fine sandy type volcanic ash with plants growing to lava rocks which you walk amongst. The path goes on following the edge of the cliff for about an hour's walk (very easy to follow at all times). At another car park area the path joins a track and heads inland back to the road. You can walk back along the very quet road making a really interesting circular walk.
El Echedo, Valverde, El Echedo - Moderate, 2.5hrs - a lovely, very varied walk. Park in the village of El Echedo by the walking signpost, take the path signposted to Tamaduste, yellow waymarkers. The route begins on a narrow road passing by several houses, after a short while it turns into a path though the vineyards. Look out for the yellow painted way markers. Follow this path along the contours and the landscape changes to a rocky lava area with many pretty plants and flowers. Rounding the hillside you get a good view of the small town of Tamaduste and the airport down below. The terrain changes again to volcanic ash, first a red colour and then black. There are sporadic green plants growing out of the ash. At a path junction take the path straight across (marked with a way mark x). This descends to join a small road. Follow the road to the right up a very steep hill (now following red way makers). A little way up the path leaves the road and heads very steeply up volcanic ash. Rounding the top of the hill the path joins the road in Valverde. Follow the red markers through Valverde to a footpath sign. Here you pick up a yellow route again signposted Echedo (I think!). This yellow route takes you on the main road out of Valverde. Shortly along the road a signpost indicates where you leave the main road. The route then follows a minor road back to Echedo.
(User, 2/10)