Sunflower Books: Landscapes of LA PALMA AND EL HIERRO: WALKS AND CAR TOURS

5th edition (February 2009), updated 8/6/2009

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Updates for walks and car tours (drives) given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

LA PALMA

Flights: Iberia also offers flights to La Palma from Heathrow - via the Spanish mainland and Gran Canaria. See www.iberia.com. (User 6/09)

Coastal "restaurants": Almost all the restuarants on the coast have disappeared. The authorities do not allow any construction anymore near the ocean. So places like Kiosko El Faro and also Kiosko Puntagorda are gone, also the bars and small restaurants on Playa Nueva. Still standing are the ones near El Remo. Lots of people who had sheds on the coast have been forced to abandon them without compensation (most were illegally built). But is does mean that there are not many of these lovely typical places left. So El Remo is still ok, and of course the "proper" restaurants in Puerto Naos, Tazacorte, Puerto Espindola, Fajana de Barlovento and a small Kiosko above Playa Zamorra in Fuencaliente. That is about all on the coast. (Conny Spelbrink of La Palma, 2009)

Car tour 2: In order to go to the Cumbrecita by car, you now HAVE to pass by the Visitors Centre first and pick up an access number . Access is now limited. In the Riachuelo barranco there is a guard post and they will not let anybody through (in the
mornings) without a proper entrance number. No cost is involved. (Conny Spelbrink of La Palma, 2009)

Walk 2: The bar in Gallegos closes at 14.30, reopens at 17.30. (User, 6/09)

Walk 4: Might be worth considering doing this stunning walk in reverse, as I found the cIimb to the watercourse less arduous when doing the walk in this direction than the the route suggested in the book. (User, 6/09)

Walk 6, Alternative walk 1: If you are not exhausted when you have reached Refugio El Pilar, we recommend that you continue along GR131 until SL EP104 and take that interesting path back to walk 6.1, to rejoin where the main walk crosses the road LP203. (User, 2008)

Walk 7: Another alternative walk is to take the bus to the Visitors Centre and walk up PR LP 14 to the plateau where it meets with SL EP 101 at a signpost. Then follow SL EP 101 and if desired divert onto SL EP 102 to go to the top of Montana Henrique before carrying on down the 101 to a small village near El Paso by a very pleasant camino. Return by bus from El Paso. All paths are safe and well marked. (User, 2008)

Walk 8: Remember that you have to pay at the Visitors Center, even if you just want to walk past it. A guide there told us, that we were not allowed to walk along the canal south from Roque Teneguia. A bus, A 31, go from Faro to Los Canarios every two hours, from 09.45 till 19.45. (Users, 2/09, 6/09) [Editor: If walking along the canal is not allowed, there must be another waymarked or signposted route; unfortunately this user does not explain.] + Bad news: There is no longer a restaurant at Faro de Fuencaliente - so bring your own lunch! See under "Restaurants" above.

Walk 9: Afteer the 4h35min-point "take the lower, left-hand track". 30min along this track, ignore a fork to the left. (User, 6/09)

Walk 10 : This is not for your update but for your information. We saw the start of a new route up Pico Bejenado from La Cumbrecita but did not have time to assess this or another new route from La Cumbrecita round to a mirador on the west ridge of Pico Bejenado above the road from Los Llanos into the Barranco de las Angustias. The difficult and potentially dangerous route into the campsite from La Cumbrecita was blocked by rockfalls and the path between the two Miradors at Cumbrecita had eroded at two points where there were slippery exposures to drops making it moderately dangerous. The problems with these paths in the very crumbly and slippery terrain arouses suspicions about the negotiability of the two new ones until they have been assessed. (User, 3/08) [Editor's note: We are not sure why this user did not want this added to the update, as it might be helpful for anyone wanting to try the new paths.]

Walk 11: The Jeeptaxi to Los Brecitos costs 10 euros per person! The fencing en route looked newly made or repaired and was in good condition. We never made it to the Cascada Colorada, as there was too much water in the gorge - we would have had to wade through ice-cold water. The descent in the Barranco de las Angustias was relatively hard. At the place where you have to leave the barranco to the right, there were signs saying "private, no entry". Shortly before the parking area there was also a high barrier to be got over, since there way too much water in the barranco to follow it. The walk was beautiful, but maybe not suitable in winter because there is too much water? (e-mail, 2/06) [Sunflower comments: We are certainly surprised by the "private, no entry" signs, since this walk was rechecked just before publication. We await any further news from users of this new edition.] + We still regard this walk as the best on the island and the equal of many of the world's great walks. It has been considerably improved and made safer than ten years ago when the stretch down to the ravine from the campsite had eroded missing parts in the path with exposure to vertiginous drops as you tried to negotiate them. There are also clear notices now . There was a sad accident last year that got considerable publicity but this was caused by someone deliberately leaving the path. The Jeeptaxi to Los Brecitos costs 51 euros shared between all the passengers - I think it would take six people. The apparent detour to the right marked 'private, no entry' does not seem to be one of the detours mentioned in your book and indeed there is no need to leave the barranco here. (User, 3/08) + Taxi for 4 to Los Brecitos cost 52 Euros - quite expensive! This walk can get very crowded with guided groups. To escape them for a while, take the left fork on p.91 - steep but fine if you're sure-footed. (User, 7/08) + Be aware that sections of the route can be ciosed from time to time because ot path maintenance. Check with the tourist office before setting out. (User, 6/09)

Walk 12: Why not return to Los Llanos along the GR 130? After 1 km along the tarred road in the barranco, cross the foot bridge and follow the white and red signs back to Los Llanos along a nice mule path. (User, 2/06) + Under grade it says
"easy descent". Although this is a short walk it is a very steep descent and you will be working hard against the gradient too avoid picking up too much momentum. (User, 2008)

Walk 14: at the 45min-point, there is a GR X (for wrong way) on our route. Our route is perfectly viable, but follow the GR if you prefer. Similarly, after the 1h15min-point, the signs are sometimes missing for the GR turn-off to the right; if you miss them, just follow the road (as in the book). (Sunflower, 2/06) + The signpost at 1h15min point has been reinstated. Also the path leaves the road to the left half a kilometer before this point and then rejoins the road just before the signpost. (User, 3/08) + The GR 'X' route at the 45min-point (in between the two houses) is rather overgrown, and it appears that walkers are encouraged to follow the GR to the road and pick up the ongoing route from there... At Tinizara, if you've time and energy left, why not continue to Puntagorda on the GR130? The route is clearly waymarked and continues across the road from the shop/bar. It makes for a pleasant walk and is thoroughly recommended! Add 1h30min to the existing timings. (User, 6/09)

Walk 15: p105, 3rd line: "Take the path descending to the right (signpost: RT TRAVIESA )"; this should read "Take the second path descending to the right "(both paths descend to the right and both are signposted RT TRAVIESA !)... p105, 3rd para, 3rd line: "Take the path down the left-hand side of the ridge". This path is difficult to locate and, once on it, rather overgrown - clearlv not used by many walkers. With your back to the windmill, head towards a red/brown freight storage container. To its left is the start of the path... Just before you reach the floor of the barranco (where the Buracas Caves are) there was, at the time of walking (4/09), a cafe called 'Finca Aloe', serving drinks and light refreshments. (User, 6/09)


EL HIERRO

Buses:
There is now a new fleet of buses and good services. All bus journeys cost just 1 euro or less with bono ticket available at Valverde bus station. The bus between Frontera and Valverde no longer goes over the mountains as it uses the tunnel. Therefore walks 19 and 20 cannot be started from the bus.

Walk 18: The Camino de Jinama down to Las Puntas is often closed due to landslides and rockfalls. It was closed in March 2009; a user suggests doing Alternative walk 1 instead. Date of reopening unknown. (Sunflower)

Walks 19, 20, IMPORTANT: See under buses above.