Sunflower Books: Landscapes of LANZAROTE: WALKS AND CAR TOURS

Lanzarote, 4th edition (2007); Updated 01/04/2009

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Updates for walks and car tours (drives) on Lanzarote given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

Buses:
1. The last sentence on page 7 is no longer justified. There is an airport-style electronic departures board in the main hall of the bus station. It gives details (in 3 languages) of the next 6 or so buses due to depart. The departure stands at the rear of the main hall all have large clear electronic displays for the next bus from that stand.
2. There is now available (unfortunately only from a machine in the Arrecife bus station and not on the buses), a 'Bono Bus' ticket. This costs 12 euros and gives a 20% discount on the standard rate for the journey. You simply insert it in a slot, tell the driver your destination and the cost and remaining balance is printed on the back. One ticket can be used by a couple - put it into the machine twice.
3. The website www.arrecifebus.com although only in Spanish, gives details of timetables for all the lines. There are a) Departure times from the start point of a service
and b) All stops at which a service will call. It is also possible to find intermediate times, fares and route maps by using the simple search boxes on the home page 'Seleccionar un Origen', then 'Seleccionar un destino' then 'Abrir'.
4. Travellers from Arrecife to the centre of Haria (La Plaza) should be aware that the bus will enter Haria and then leave (probably without stopping), proceed 1km into the countryside, go round a roundabout and return to Haria to pull up beside the church for the Plaza. Because of the narrow streets it appears the bus is too long to make the sharp left turn to get there directly!

NB: MOST OF THE COMMENTS WHICH FOLLOW HAVE BEEN RECEIVED IN THE PAST FROM USERS - WAYS TO EXTEND OR VARY WALKS AND TOURS. THEY ARE NOT CORRECTIONS TO THE CURRENT EDITION.

CAR TOURS
If you take the road from Vegas de Tegoyo towards Tinguaton and turn right after about 2km, you come (2min by car or 10min on foot) to the biggest lava bomb on the island. It's in a 'desert'-landscape that you'd generally only see in the national park. Well worth a visit. (User)

Car tour 1: Do encourage walkers to venture into the Malpais de la Corona, off the road onto little tracks to the isolated houses... and to explore the La Quemada de Orzola crater a bit. We climbed into it and found an approach from the north onto the rim. (User)

Walk 1: If you only have a few hours on La Graciosa, you may want to rent a bike (two shops on the seafront). Great, but tough biking over sandy tracks in the wind. Still, a good way to see a lot in a short time. The full walk can only be done in summer, when there's a return ferry at 18.00. + There is a huge rubbish dump shortly after Playa de las Conchas. + We spent two happy weeks in the north of Lanzarote in Jan - mainly thanks to the indispensable Sunflower book. May I suggest that La Graciosa deserves 2-3 DAYS, to take in the beauty and spirit of this island. And a walk to the crater in the west of the island (Montaña Amarilla) is well worth it, also the stunning bay below it.

Walk 3, short alternative (Monte Corona ascent): The view from the top of the crater is stunning, but a much better approach is to walk from Ye, where a well-defined path leads directly to the lowest part of the crater rim. From here paths lead up around the rim. Care is needed - even on a calm day, it was very windy at the top, and would be very perilous after rain. Very unusually, the text can't be right - the cactus fields run in a continuous band from left to right where the last track ends, so to go round them to the right means a big loss of height. Going though them to the right (which we did) ends up in scree. The map (page 57) implies that this track is very short, whereas in reality it covers about half the distance to the summit. The google picture of Lanzrote shows all this clearly at full zoom. (User, 3/08)

Walk 4: At the start of the walk the instructions say look for a asphalted lane 50 meters after a phone box. The phone box must have been removed. However we found the lane required which is called Calle de la Caldera. What a wonderful walk, interesting to see what the friendly locals are growing. (User, 3/08)

Walk 5: The bus will not now stop at Restaurante Los Helechos. The only possible stops after Los Valles are 'Valle Arriba' and then Haria. I was unable to find out the actual location of the stop the bus company calls 'Valle Arriba' (perhaps it is at the turn off for the Ermita de las Nieves?). If you wish to walk down the old track from Restaurante Los Helechos without using a taxi then I would suggest the following: 1) Start from Haria.
2) Walk out to the mirador with drystone walls (the 2h-point in main walk 5), either via the Valle de los Castillejos or the shorter way by using the return route in the opposite direction up the Valle del Rincon. 3) Then take the track to the right that contours round below Montana Ganada (shown in faint grey on map p56). 4) Continue on this track until it reaches a hairpin bend (GR 4415 2345 on the map on p56) near head of Valle de Malpaso. 5) Then follow a path beside the stream up the barranco (described by User as Variation to 3rd edition but omitted from 4th). 6) At the top, turn left to the main road and nearby Restaurante Los Helechos. (User, 4/09) + Variation: Just ENE of Haria, follow a track up to a "hill" and you will come to a charming little plateau, with a donkey, camel and some children, just a few houses. We found this a very special place. From there it is a relatively steep descent (from next to a water reservoir?) down to the Haria-Maguez road, from where you can take an OLD PATH (not shown on your map) down to Arieta. We used this path a lot. (User)

Walk 6, a variation: We did this walk from Teguise and made it into a circuit (allow 16km/4h30min; see map pages 72-73). Park at the stadium on the eastern outskirts of Teguise. You are heading out towards the Ermita de San José. Soon you leave the tarmac. It is about 2min to a weight restriction sign facing the opposite direction, the return track (Main Walk 6) is on your right. Ignore the track on the left going up hill. At a fork (7min), bear right. This takes you to the ruins of the Ermita de San JosÈ on your right. Very soon after there is a crossing of tracks, go straight ahead, up the hill heading northeast (not marked in colour on your map); this is a lovely old stone mule trail (but it would be hard to find it walking in the direction the book suggests, as it's very obscure at its top end). There is an army telecommunications centre just south of the Ermita de las Nieves, which we reached in 2h15min. Leaving the ermita, we followed the asphalt road towards the LZ-10 for 10 minutes. On the first sharp left-hand bend we took the clear track going straight ahead. Continue on this track for about 30min. Passing under cables, five minutes later the track splits three ways, take the left hand and zigzag down into Los Valles. (3h10min), where we turned right past the sports complex. At a 3-way road junction, where the LZ-10 is ahead (left), we turned sharp right and passed a small church and school on the right. We followed this road for 15 minutes, through two sets of crossroads and eventually up a short incline out of Los Valles. There are cinder fields either side and the odd house. Pass the last farmhouse on the left, with animal sheds and noisy, chained dogs (3h25min), we ignored a track going left up to the top of the small hill. We were hoping to join the track out of Los Valles shown on your map, but it does not connect as drawn. In order to continue, we had to carry on cross-country with no path, but it was easy. To do this, note that you are on a right-hand bend in the asphalt road. Look down into the valley before you and locate a ruined farm surrounded by palms. Just before and to the right of that farm, note a faint grassy track with walls either side. Scramble down the open hillside to that track (3h 30min). We passed the farm ruins on our left and followed the track diagonally up the side of the hill on our right. (The walking is easier underfoot if you go above and to the right of the track, as there has been some erosion in parts, but do not lose the track halfway up the hill.) The track becomes rocky and joins a track coming from the left at some cultivation (3h 55min). This track is easier underfoot. We passed two buildings and joined the main jeep track down from the Ermita de las Nieves to Teguise (the 6hr-point on Walk 6). We followed this track back to the stadium (4h30min). (User 9/99, updated by another user 10/06)

Walk 8: I usually wear boots, but did not on this walk, since the equipment listed did not specify boots. I slid badly on the Camino del Meson (loose gravel) and broke my ankle. (User, 5/07)

Walk 10: Here's an alternative loop walk based on Walk 10 (4hrs 10min). Park at Playa Quemada. Take the coastal path to Barranco de la Higuera (40min), note the return path, waymarked yellow, coming in on your right. Continue on the coastal path until the purple waymark on the right signals the ascent up Morro de la Loma de Pozo (1hr 15min). At about 2hrs, you reach the out and back from the main walk. Follow the main walk down into the Barranco de la Higuera until you pick up Alternative 1, waymarked yellow, to take you back down the barranco to the sea and back along the coastal path to Playa Quemada. (User, 11/06) + Walk 10: Strongly recommended, including the extra 10 minutes to Morro de la Loma del Pozo which affords good views of the coast. (User, 3/08)

Walks 11, 12 and 16 (Faro Pechiguera to La Hoya. There is now a Bus Route (Linea 30) in Playa Blanca that runs from the new Estacion de Guaguas every 30 minutes from 06.30 until 22.00. The bus goes West to Faro Park (in 15 mins), back to Estacion (in 15 mins) then East to Las Coloradas (in 15 mins) and finally back to Estacion (in 15 mins). This route can be conveniently used to shorten the 3 walks as above. (e-mail, 2/09)

Walk 11: I would start at Femes, rather than walk uphill from Playa Blanca, this is an extremely long walk anyway so enjoy it downhill. (User, 2006)

Walk 13: Leave the bus, heading towards Playa Blanca to (Mirador de las Salinas sign) cross the roundabout straight ahead continuing towards Playa Blanca, less than 10min along, just past the road crash barrier turn off right. The top of the plateau is bare and dusty. From above the lagoon continue south, circling the top of the basin to your left to come to a small deep ravine. You don't need to do this on all fours. If you plan your route ahead carefully it's quite easy (we are not keen on steep descents either). (User, 2006)

Walk 14: If you follow the main route, I think it should be done in the opposite direction, since the descent is so steep and slippery the way you describe. However, the alternative descent is fine. (User, 2004)

Coastal Walks, Los Cocoteros to Costa Teguise: No need for a taxi to the salt pans. The line 9 bus from Arrecife at 10.30am towards Orzola will drop you at the bus stop in Guatiza and then it is a simple walk down the road (little traffic) to Los Cocoteros to start the coastal path. I actually stayed on the bus to visit the JardÌn de Cactus before walking the half mile or so back along the very wide grass verge to Guatiza. (User, 4/09)

New walk suggestion: Tabayesco - Valle de Chafariz (see touring map) or Valle del Cuchillo (see map pages 72-73) 12km/3h30min. As we are fast walkers, add 25% to these walking times. This walk starts at Tabayesco and goes through this delightfully lush and fertile valley, using an old mule trail to join the Haria road (LZ-10, link with Walk 5). From there the main walk continues up the mule trail to the mirador above the Restaurante los Helechos (link with Walk 6). It then follows the ridge between the valleys of the Cuchillo and Palomo to a beautiful picnic site 30min off Car tour 1. From there a cross-country stretch could take you down through terraces to join Walk 6 in reverse to end in Mala. The main walk continues along the ridge. A final cross- country stretch takes you back into Tabayesco to complete the circuit. Park at the bus shelter at the entrance to Tabayesco (or catch the bus from Arrecife: Timetable 6 (Tabayesco is just before Arrieta and after Mala on this route). Start out by taking the lower (right) road at the junction by the bus shelter, leading into the village. Ignore Calle la Luciana leading left up to the church. At the end of the village (7min) the road becomes a wide dirt track leading up the valley. The Restaurante los Helechos is already visible on the hilltop ahead and slightly to the left. Every bit of cultivatable land is being used for fruit, vines, vegetables or just animal food in this valley; it was very green and refreshing in spring. We were even regaled by a nightingale in April, although the most common bird was the house bunting (an African bird similar to a small hedge sparrow but more musical). Ignore tracks going off either side to fields or houses, and at 32min reach a major split in the tracks. The left hand track is the return route for the short walk. Take the right- hand track, continuing to ignore small tracks leaving this main track, which is always obvious, heading straight up to the top of the valley. At 40min, just after passing tracks going off either side (the one to the left to a small house), come to a T-junction. Restaurante los Helechos is off to the left. The short walk goes left here. The main walk goes right on a track which soon degenerates into a path. This path, very unusually for Lanzarote, wades through waist-high grass in parts, and you need to dodge the odd cow pat. It affords fabulous views down the valley. You reach a stone-laid mule trail, clearly marked by red paint dots and/or cairns. Follow the zigzags and the going is easy. In a further 10 minutes you reach the top. Here you meet a track and, turning left for 100m, you come to an asphalt road (lh). The junction with the LZ-10 is a further 50m to the right. Look down here into the Haria and Maguez valleys and see the Risco de Famara (Walk 5) ahead. A track directly opposite would take you into Haria in 10 minutes if you wished. But continue along the road to the left (carefully) for 5 minutes. Less than 150m beyond the 20km marker, head left uphill on a mule trail (lh07min). This lovely trail (Walk 5 in reverse) leads you easily up past the hairpins on the road, passing the Mirador de Haria (lh28min), with wonderful views down the valley through which you have just walked. After two more crossings, including one close to the Restaurante los Helechos, you meet a track. You are now above the restaurant. Turn left on this track, parallel to the LZ-10 below you at the km17 marker. The military base at Peñas del Cache is ahead/right and, as you meet another road leading to the Ermita de las Nieves, note a roadside parking bay and mirador to your left on the LZ10. Go to this mirador (1h40min). You have walked almost from sea level at Tabayesco to the highest point on the island, and the fabulous views are great reward. You can see the restaurant on your left, with Montana Corona beyond; behind you is Peñas del Cache and the Ermita de las Nieves; in front is the Valle de Chafariz/Cuchillo with Tabayesco and the coast at Arrieta beyond; to the right is the ridge separating this valley from the Valle del Palomo (Walk 6). Along this ridge, note a track which begins near some palm trees on your right some 200m away. This is your onward route. Turn right along the LZ10 and walk carefully to meet this track. Just after the last roadside palm, 100m after the 16km marker and just past a house on the left, take the track which initially runs parallel to the road on the left. It then turns away from the road, heading towards the ridge you saw. Pass between potato fields and, as the ridge narrows, you start to see the Palomo Valley on your right as well as the Cuchillo/Chafariz Valley on your left. The track up the Palomo Valley used in Walk 6 is now clearly visible. At 1h56min the track forks. The left fork goes to a house; take the right fork, heading out along the ridge. Pass a ruined house, then a new rectangular building. Just after this new building there are some more substantial ruins on your right (2h10min), just invisible from the track. This is a beautiful picnic spot with far-reaching views over the Palomo Valley, and is less than 30 minutes' easy walk from the car tour. It is possible to link up with Walk 6 here and end the walk in Mala by following Walk 6 in reverse. The outward track used in Walk 6 is clearly visible below you, an although there is no path down to it, the route through these abandoned terraces cross-country is easily negotiable in 15 minutes. This would allow you to join the track in the 'verdant valley' near the barranco crossings at approximately the 2h-point on that walk. Continuing the main walk along the ridge, ignore a right fork going up to some terraces about 5 minutes past the ruins, and at 2h25min go through a gap in the rocks and reach potato fields on either side. Here the good track deteriorates and becomes very indistinct. From here you need to head cross-country to leave the ridge and head down to Tabayesco. The walking is not difficult, and navigation could not be easier. Locate Arrieta on the coast (the first village you can see - the further one is Punta de Mujeres). Head towards Arrieta, down this gradual slope, picking your way through the eroded parts carefully. Soon you will see the ruins of a house, which you should reach at about 2h40min. From the ruins, still heading down towards Arrieta, locate a rocky knoll. You can pass either side of this knoll, but the slope is much more gentle to the right of it. Just pick your way down through these abandoned terraces, making for the asphalt road now clearly visible below you. Reach the road at 3h10min. Tabayesco is clearly visible to the right. Reach the village and your car at 3h30min.
Short version (5km/1h35min): Follow the notes above to the 40min-point. Take the left turn at this T-junction. This track soon becomes a grassy path as it sweeps round above your outward route. The view of the valley is wonderful all the way to Arrieta on the coast as the path passes between cultivated terraces. At 47min reach the asphalt road. Turn left and walk down this quiet road for 7 minutes. Cross a barranco on a bridge and immediately after take the clear track going left. This track gives you a real feel for the valley as it passes through vineyards and fruit orchards, and is lined with palm trees. At lh04min reach a junction (the 32min-point on your outward route). Turn right and retrace your outward route back to Tabayesco (1h35min). (Walk suggested by John and Christine Oldfield, authors of Andalucía and the Costa del Sol and Costa Blanca, 8/99)

NEW WALK SUGGESTION (near Walk 7): Playa Teneza - Playa de la Madera - Playa Teneza
Allow 4h; Access: by private car take the tar sealed road from Tinajo tcwards Playa de la Madera and remain on this road when it turns right just before the rough red track which leads to Playa de la Madera. The road ends shortly at playa Teneza (not named on the touring map).
Walk: Playa Teneza is a delightful picnic spot. Start out by following the wide sandy path going west towards Playa de la Madera. Soon the path wends its way through the lava but is well defined, although later, after passing across a wide beach, the path is less clear but is easily followed by keeping fairly close to the coast. Eventually the path joins the track leading frorn Playa de la Madera back to the sealed road to Playa Teneza. This coastal walk is very rewarding for the opportunity to see wonderful lava flows and formations as well as some excellent examples of islotes. (User, 6/00) + This walk was wonderful, but took us 4h30min, not 4h, without stops. Boots (and strong ankles!) are really essential, as you are clambering over uneven lava for a good 2h30min. (User, 12/03)

NEW CIRCUIT FROM LA CALETA
By car drive west through the centre La Caleta and out along the unmade (dual carriageway) road to the beach. Park at the beach. There is a firm track in the sand at the top of the beach going west. Follow this until a high mound crosses running from the seashore inland. On the far side of the mound is a wide track. Follow this. Eventually it deteriorates into a rough track which clearly climbs the side of a first volcano. Continue to the top (steepish) - the way is obvious although the path disappears.
From the rim there is a terrific view of the Famara cliffs, especially impressive in morning light. Looking down into the crater we were amazed to see two concentric oval tracks which looked rather like overgrown running tracks. At one end is a man- made tunnel which we didn't explore. From the top you can pick out a T-junction in the tracks below. Continue round the rim to a depressed section where a path goes down to the plain. Cross scrub to the T-junction and take the clear track heading west to the next volcano. Follow the track right to the top of the volcano and round the rim where it eventually descends back towards the direction you came in. However the track does a U-turn and you continue to follow it westwards. At the base of the hill the track has been obscured by sand but can be picked up in the direction of the third volcano.
Follow this path as it reaches and then skirts the hill. The path is very clear and leads uphill to the fourth and final volcano which is the one north of Soo. A track leads to the edge of the crater, where a short but steep climb (no path) takes you to the northern rim and the most fantastic view of the mountains of the National Park, of Santa and right round to Famara. Rejoin the track and turn towards the sea which it eventually reaches. Turn right and the track goes all the way back to Caleta. However it is easy to walk along the top of the beach more or less along the survey markers and enjoy the lovely breaking waves (User, 1/04)

OTHER SUGGESTION: On clear days, Montaña Blanca near San Bartolomé offers the best views over the whole island. You can climb it from the Tias/San Bartolomé road, about 3km fromTias - on the left some 100m beyond the pass. Ascent about 1h30min. (User, 4/04)