Sunflower Books: Landscapes of MALLORCA: WALKS AND CAR TOURS

Mallorca, 6th ed (2006), updated 8/11/09

(To visit the web page for this book on our main site, click here )

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) on Mallorca given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

Overnight accommodation
In case you want to stay at a monastery, etc, here are the telephone numbers:
Lluc: 971-871525
San Salvador: 971 827282
Monti-Sion: 971 647185
Cura: 971 120260
Puig de María: 971 184132
Ermita de Bonany: 971 561101
Ermita on the Puig St Miquel: 971 646314
Castell d'Alaró: 971 510480
Tossals Verds: 971 182027

Monastery/refuge accommodation: Castel d'Alaró now has five new 4-bedded bunk rooms with radiator (12 euros). Take your own sleeping bag; blanket and pillow provided. Cold rainwater only (take sterilizing tablets); NO showers. Bar/meals available in common/dining room by fire. Refugi La Muleta by Soller lighthouse is the same as Tossals Verds, but only one large mixed dorm (so snorers, please give this a miss!). Only walkers and cyclists are accepted. Warm, comfortable, showers, meals available. Usually 3 nights maximum stay (10 euros). On Saturdays usually booked in advance by locals. Sheet hire extra, or take your own. (User, 12/05) New refuge "Can Boi" opened in Deia June 2006. Same as Tossals Verds and Muleta. 2 dorms with 18 and 12 beds. For all 3 ring government department Mon-Fri between 9am and 2pm. 971 173 700/731. Website www.conselldemallorca.net (but English version not up to date - manage in Catalan or Castellano if poss!) (User, 12/06)

TRANSPORT (AS OF MAY 2009): Public transport costs are all extremely cheap. However taxis are only slightly less expensive than taxis in England.
Staying at Deia, the approx two hourly TIB bus service Linea 210 (Palma to Pt. Soller) was essential and the approx hourly service Linea 211 (fast Palma to Pt. Soller) was useful. Getting from the Airport to Palma (Placa d'Espagna), the city bus Linea 1 ran every 15 minutes.
The main line Palma-Inca had a fast and frequent (15 min) service (useful for walk 21)
The Palma-Soller line was marvellous to travel on but was not as frequent (or as fast|) as the bus L211. Our main problem was Linea 354 (Soller to Pollenza and beyond) - essential for getting into the Tramontana unless you use a taxi. The tourist guide in the information centre at Palma told us it wasnít running. At Port Soller, the bus terminus had no timetable for it although the other timetables were pinned up and a local person we asked told us he didn't know if the service was running this year. There was an added complication in that the bus stops at Soller are all altered due to roadworks (see below) However, one morning we waited at Soller and to our surprise the bus actually turned up (no lit up sign in front to indicate which bus it was and of course we turned out to be waiting in the wrong place!) It was also late, being packed with hikers! However the main thing was, it ran, and the driver was willing to stop at places useful to hikers.
A major problem was the bus stop at Soller. Because of road works the buses (L210, L211 and L354) only stop on the main bypass road at or opposite the garage mentioned on Page 89 (Walk 13) of the book (there are no bus stop signs). There is no logic to which side of the road they stop! Outbound from Pt Soller L210 and L211 stop opposite the garage while L354 stops at the garage. Inbound they stop opposite their outbound stops. L210 and L354 come back down the road after turning round a roundabout further on. We were told that when this diversion ends, the buses will not stop at Placa America as mentioned in the book (Walk 13) but on the road running up to it. (User, 6/09)

Walk 2: This is a really good walk, but I think it ascends more than 350m. The route between Sa Trapa and Ses Basses is common to both Walks 1 and 2, but the time given is different. - ie on walk 1 it is given as lh10min (from lh05min to 2h15min). On walk 2 it is given as 50min (from 1h55min to 2h45min). I think Walk 1 gives the correct timing, and for Walk 2 the timing for Ses Basses should be 3h05min, which will affect all the following timings. The junction 5min after Ses Basses is marked by an easily missed cairn tucked under a rock face on the left-hand side of the path, next to a red arrow. At the end of the walk and after crossing the coll (end of page 63) there is a cairn after 5min, but the path appears to ascend, however 10 min from the col there is a sharp right turn which appears to be correct and which we used but which has NO cairn. (User, 4/07)

Walk 7: "Back in the valley (2h 10m) ..pass..old well. Just after this, turn left again, down what looks like the access path to a house". This IS now just an access path to a house. The owner has lined the drive and put dogs and electric gates on it. Access is now alongside the new, outer, wall of his property, along the edge of the field/orchard, waymarked with red spots, to resume at ìthe beginning of the narrow path up the hillside. (User, 5/09)

Walk 10c: The walk along the edge is magnificent. The descent needs great care but is OK. There is a bread oven at the 55 minute point in the cliff face but the one described is a second oven that occurs about 30 minutes after this. The right turn at this point is currently marked with a yellow arrow hanging in the trees. The beautiful terraces which the path follows after the rusty gates are well worth spending an hour or two in if it is sunny. Near the bottom of this route there is a barrier across the path but this can be climbed over like a stile. (User, 5/09)

Walk 11: After all the hurricanes, tornados and rain Mallorca suffered during the winter 08/09, this route was impassable in March 2009 at the two small recesses where the narrow path rounds the edge. The author phoned the Deia town hall, and now a user confirms: We were there in May 2009 and the path is fully open again - thanks to her for contacting the Deia authorities, they obviously acted extremely promptly. (User, 5/09)

Walk 12: We went Lluc - Col de sa Bataia - Comafreda - Coll d'es Prat - ridge and Galileu, then DOWN the Voltes to the Ma-10 and back to Lluc - a satisfying round. The new section also makes possible a variation from the Coll d'es Prat on the way to Lluc (Walk 22), as the route is signposted and waymarked across from the wall at the Coll d'es Prat. (User, 5.07). + At the 2h30min+ stage ("Return to the Pas de Ses Cases de Neu") it was impossible to find the long rocky ridge. We spent some time looking for the cairns with no success. (User, 1/08) Editor: Has anyone else had a problem here? + Walked this 04/08 and found no problem with "return to Pas de sas Casas de Neu at 2h30m". You can not miss the ridge ahead. Just go straight across the path at the col and continue in the same direction. Cairns are a bit intermittent but it is afier all a ndge albeit a broad and easy one simply stay on top of it, circumventing any obvious outcrops encountered en route. I think a better, if more costly, route to go, clockwise, Lluch-Coma Freda - Col d'es Prat - Casa de Neu - top of ridge - along to Pas de Casas de Neu, up & down Gal ileu, and DOWN Ses Voltes to Liuch. (User, 5/08)

Walk 13: Thanks to Valerie Crespi-Green for her excellent guide to Mallorca. I have just been on a walking holiday in Mallorca (late December 2008). At that time of year, in heavy rain the trail becomes a torrent, especially as you descend towards Sóller. Not long before the end of the walk we had no choice but to wade across a stream of very cold water. (User, 1/09) + The GR221 can be followed all the way from the centre of Deia to Soller - and beyond - and is lovely! (User, 2/09) + Yes, the GR221 is very well signposted; it starts directly opposite the Residencia Hotel and descends first towards Cala Deiá, crossing the tarmac three or four times, then veers off right about 10min. before the Cala, and rises again to join the main road. Then you have a very short walk along the road, and some 40-50m before the original start of the walk described in the book (opposite Cán Puigserver) there is a signpost to "Sóller" pointing up right. (Author, 3/09) + This walk is extensively used and waymarked. As the update notes mention, there is now a different entrance point nearer Deia. The route is mainly marked as GR 221 but soon after passing the farm with the orange juice the GR221 takes a different route while Walk 13 continues straight on. Further on the route divides in two (with two signposts) and the lower route waymarked 'Cami des Rost' should be taken. We never found the metal plate with lunch point at the top of the steps. (User, 5/09)

Walk 14: The refuge in the castle at Alarò is closed for renovation ­ maybe upgrading. No word on when it was due to re-open. (User, 1/09) + Alternative: We took the car to Es Verger Restaurant - an adventure in itself - make sure you look inside. We called in for coffee at 11.00 on an October Saturday, to find it well occupied by eating and drinking mountain bikers and others. Tables were set for a bumper lunchtime crowd, which duly materialised as we saw from above later.. The speciality is oven roast lamb with red wine in unlabelled bottles to the fore, though how one then negotiates the 4km of hairpins back down was not clear. Despite warning signs not to proceed any further by car, we found 4 vehicles (not 4WD) at Es Pouet (braver drivers than I) and enjoyed the spectacular views from Alaro. The refuge was still being renovated but some buildings seemed to be finished. (not sure if any were in use, but the chapel was open and so was the bar/taverneta (9.00 till 23.00 according to the sign). (User, 11/09)

Walk 16: At the 3 hour stage the bridge and the plank were both washed away in Dec 2007. There was so much rushing water to traverse that we decided to omit Es Cornados. (User, 1/08) + We walked the alternative Cuber Lake - Soller. An easy ascent and magnificent descent. The turn to the right off the main route before the col is reached is marked by a sign. (User, 5/09)

Walk 17: This walk was very exciting, and the upper path never felt exposed or vertiginous. It's worth mentioning that the turn off onto this path is the second on the right , opposite a carob tree, and not the first which is opposite an olive tree, as described. The second turning is just a few minutes after the first. Waymarking on the upper path now consists not of cairns but of occasional red paint spots. On reaching the pass at the top there are several options ­ the correct one is the one which bears slightly left and soon starts to descend gently. (User, 1/09)

Walk 18: We did the alternative out and return. On return to the mirador, rather than wait for the bus or phone for a taxi, there is a well waymarked footpath starting from the mirador entrance off the main road. It crosses the main road twice (great care needed as the cars come extremely fast round the bends). The path runs down to Fornalutx, from where there is then another path to Soller (described as Walk 1 in the author's Mallorca 'Walk and Eat' guide). (Uer, 5/09) + I thought Cala Tuent was lovely, not 'truly boring'. (User, 6/09) + Boats to Sa Calobra: A new company has taken over the route, and there may be some changes to timetables: Barcos Azules, Passeig Través nº 3, Port de Sóller, 07108. Tel: 971 630170; fax: 971 633302, www.barcosazules.com, e-mail: charter@barcosazules.com.

Walk 21: An easy and attractive descent from Lake Cuber with some great views. After leaving Tossals Verde (book early if you want to stay the night - it is very popular) the trail beyond is now a tarmac road. However 100 metres after the gates there is a well marked donkey trail signposted to the left off the road. This takes you down to near the ravine entrance. Once the main road is reached, the first turn into Lloseta can be used (follow signs to Inca). The nearside platform is the one for the return to Palma (the platforms are totally unmarked!) - this is important as you have to cross the tracks on a walk way to reach the other side. (User, 5/09) + Walk 21/22 (part) Cuber to Font d'Es Prat on 26.10.09: The 1hr05min point of walk 21 is well signposted.. We lunched at the Font, then followed the stream as suggested to find the start of the Canaleta de Massanella; the path is indeed overgrown, but some "stepping stones" guided us to the Canaleta and we reached the wall barring the way - if I had read the guide more carefully, I assume we could have gone over the wall and a little further on to find the aqueduct (now I'll have to go back again!). Returned to Cuber seeing a group of 9 soaring black vultures enroute. (User, 11/09)

Walk 23: The time given on page 111 for the right turn to Comaf reda should be 5min and not l5min. (User, 4/07) + At the start: note that the road bridge near the petrol station at the Col de sa Bataia has a parapet on the left side which is only knee-high and has two gaps in it. As walkers would be on the left, facing oncoming traffic, any false step sideways could cause a serious accident, as there is a drop of about 15ft to the boulders in the river. (User, 04/08) + In April I had some trouble on this walk. It would have been either in Holy Week or over the Easter week-end. We were at the entry point to the walk by the stone engraved "puig Massanella" (p111). An old jeep type 4x4 vehicle came out of the gates. It was painted a dark red colour and the elderly man inside appeared to be official. As far as we remember he had a shirt with epaulettes with Policia on and showed us what appeared to be official seals. One was a metal shield and the other a leather belt. They had Guardia Forestale on them. He did not show us any paper identity. He told us that we could not go on the land to the right towards Massanella. As we were only intending to go a short way towards Massanella we accepted this and went down the other path towards Caimari. My husband was suspicious of the situation and wondered whether the landowner was just trying to discourage walkers . We asked a few other Guardia Forestales about this later in the week and they did not know anything about it. I'd be interested to know whether anyone else has had a similar experience. I now know that next time I need to go to the local junta to enquire about this. (User, 5/09)

Walk 25, Alternative: The end of the walk has been vastly improved. Instead of following the main road (C710) and being alert for traffic there is now a signposted footpath which runs parallel with the road at first and then via an old pilgrim path directly to the monastery without walking on the road at all. The route is well signed as part of the GR 221 (User, 8/07). + You can learn more about the GR 221 (the 'Drystone Route') by downloading the 2-sheet brochure published by The Consell de Mallorca at www.conselldemallorca.net/mediambient/pedra/senderisme.php?idioma=ing&opcio=2 (Sunflower)

Walk 26: Yippee! From Las Creus (4h40min) it is no longer necessary to walk along the road, thanks to the Programme for Footpaths in Mallorca, which is reclaiming the old Lluc road for walkers. When you reach the Ma-10 at K5.3, cross the bridge and immediately take the waymarked track to the right, away from the road, between the road and the Torrent de la Vall d'en March. Cross a small footbridge and continue the leafy rural walking you were enjoying before. To the right there are fine views to the Cuculla de Fartarix across the river, until you briefly encounter the road again (at K4.9). Here a new sign point you down the Cami de Can towards Llobera a la Torreta. The way soon asserts itself as the GR221, which stays on the left bank of the torrent. A stile on the left gives access to a short stretch of track that runs along the top of a broad stone wall, before regaining the riverside. A curious wooden ladder has to be negotiated en route, before you meet the Ma-10 again near some stepping stones (at K3.9), opposite the gates of Can Serra with its imposing avenue of plane trees. From here the track goes alongside the river, still separated from the road, with fine views to the Penya del Migdia. At the moment this track stops at K3.5, where a stile takes you back onto the road opposite Ca na Borrassa, but they are working on the next stretch. For the moment the path goes alongside the Ma-10, but separated from it , until K3.1, leaving only 300m of road-walking until the turn-off at K2.8. This 300m also now has signs alerting motorists to walkers! (See also Walk 25, Alternative, above) + As well as the welcome, road-avoiding, changes which I reported last year (see above), a new refuge has opened. It is the Refugi Ponte Romano, situated (obviously) near the Roman Bridge as you enter Pollensa. It looks brand new, with a gleaming glass frontage, and we had a quick look inside to see a pleasant reception area and kitchen. It appeared to have all services and is obviously better placed for Pollensa town than the one on top of Puig Maria. (User, 5/08)

Walk 28: The parking place at the start is easily acessed from the new road that is now partially open. It is directly right off the roundabout that is on the line of the walk. (User, 6/08)

Walk 30: We found the turn off at 2h10min now clearly marked by post and the path is easy to follow and well signed all the way back to the Ermita. (User, 6/08)

Walk 31: The very poorly surfaced road is now resurfaced to the entrance just past the agroturismo, making it a more pleasant drive. A one way system has been set up round the loop beyond the entrance, takinging you right, therefore parking is just round the headland to the left on reaching the bay. Unfortunately when were there 10 June the road had a large gully carved accross it on the sharp bend, so without 4WD it was necessary to park just above and walk down to the bay adding an extra 10 minutes to each end of the walk - no major problem as it is in shade. You then needed to return the wrong way round the one way. After 10 minutes there is no longer a gate, just a gap at the end of the fence. More posts have been erected here. These are either to mark the prcareous edge or the land owner is about to fence it off... (User, 6/08)

Mapping changes: the (free) tunnel under the hill into Puerto Soller is fully operative, and emerges in the middle of PS. At Puerto Pollensa they are building a new link between the Ma 10 and the Alcudia road. It runs from the Caprabo/Naval yard roundabout to bypass the front and emerges on the Alcudia road at appx. K 61.9. It is nearly ready - ready enough for local vehicles to be happily using it afier work has finished for the day! (User, 5/09)

Resurrection of the old walk PUIG DE S'AGUILA.
A walk which featured in the early editions of the Landscape "Mallorca" was from Cala San Vicente up to Puig de S'Aguila, when it used to be possible in the 1980s to walk this. This ceased in the 1990s when it was a) restricted to certain days of the week, and b) prohibited altogether. We have looked at it in recent years but the prohibition notices were still there. This year, however, we spotted people on it, and went to investigate. The notices have gone, access is OK, and there is even a monument at the start dedicated to walkers who strive to keep routes open. It was always a popular walk, useful to tie in with the path over Soller from Puerto Pollensa to SCV, and could perhaps be re-considered? Foreigners and Mallorquins are now back on it, the latter continuing on to Mola. (User, 5/08)