Sunflower Books: Landscapes of MADEIRA: WALKS AND CAR TOURS

Madeira, 9th edition (2008; released 12/2007); updated 14/07/2008

(To visit the web page for this book on our main site, click here )

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) on Madeira given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

Accommodation: There are now several youth hostels on Madeira: see www.pousadasjuventude.pt

Buses changes since this edition went to press
Bus 3 does not exist any more; the route is no No 137, with quite different times. (User, 8/07) [You will have to enquire at a Rodoeste kiosk about this, since their web site still shows Bus 3 and no bus 137 - Pat & John] + Friends staying elsewhere from us suggested catching the BUS 3 to Estreito at a specific time. In view of the above information, I purchased a recent bus timetable (November 2007) and found BUS 3 was not mentioned, nor was it in the timetable of the previous year. We went to our bus stop with a view to taking the BUS 137 -which IS in the timetable - or any alternative to Cabo Girao. We noted that the timetable at the bus stop still showed the BUS 3. BUS 3 duly arrived around its expected time so do not believe the timetable! I am aware that this information may not be of much help to you in updating the website! (User, 6/08)
Bus 6 has a Mon-Fri departure at 19.00 from Funchal to Sao Vicente. The 14.30 to Funchal starts at 14.20 in Fajo do Penedo. [These have appeared on the Rodoeste web site.]
Bus 20 the Mon-Fri 12.30 from Santo da Serra has become 12.20. On weekdays there's also one at 14.00. [These have be added to SAM web site.]
Bus 23 (only weekdays) has also 2 very early buses at 7.00 and 8.00
Bus 29 has a last departure from Funchal now not at 22.30 but 23.30. An e-mail (Jan 08) advises us that bus 29 is now called Bus 129 - MAYBE this was to avoid confusion with yellow town bus 29, OR MAYBE they are renumbering all the buses.
Bus 60 : the 11.00 and 19.15 buses do not run Saturdays
Bus 80: There is a 14.35 departure on Saturdays (except end of year) from Funchal via Ponta do Pargo The bus leaving Porto Moniz at 16.00 is now daily. + A user tells us (11/07) that the 80 bus does not now get to Santa till 13.10, having stopped 20min in Ribeira Brava (not 10min). He says the return bus departing Porto Moniz gets back to Funchal at 20.00, not 19.30.
Bus 139: This now departs Porto Moniz at 16.45 not 16.30 (according to a user, 11/07); since it goes via the Encumeada tunnel, it gets back to Funchal at 18.30 - a very speedy journey
Bus 208:See under Walk 11 - this would appear to be a new bus. (3/08)

Flights: Great news for frequent travellers to Madeira: from 28 October Easyjet is going to fly daily to Funchal from Stansted and 3 times weekly from Bristol for as little as 50 £ return (if booked early)
www.easyjet.com. (e-mail, 7/07)

Appetizer walk: See comments about buses 80 and 139 above.

Walk 3: The old ER107 road has been permanenty blocked for all traffic from the Curral end to Eira do Serrado. All traffic must now use the new tunnel. In the walk description: "As the trail makes a V-turn to the left, you are just level with the old road tunnel under the Eira." At this point it is easy to climb onto the old road and use this to walk down to Curral. With no traffic and still all the splendid views, this turns the walk into an EASY alternative to the described route. The remark "...you'll be a source of some amusement to passing motorists" no longer applies and should be removed. (User, 10/07) [Pat & John comment: We would be surprised if this road is permanently closed as opposed to being made one-way only (like the 'Antiga 101' in the north of the island. We were told in Sep. 2007 that the road was closed for repairs.] + The old road is still closed - and looks to be fairly permanently blocked off. (User, 5/08)

Walk 6: A suggestion for a new short walk. If you catch the 0930 number 7 bus from Funchal to Ribiera da Quinta Grande (arrives ~1020) you have plenty of time to walk to the concrete balcony at the end of the walk and back to Boa Morte for a beer before catching the 1430 number 148 bus back to Funchal. (User, 7/08)

Walk 7: The stretch of the Levada between Sitio das Quatro Estradas and Aguas Mansas suffered a lot of damage in the April storm and is currently not suitable for the casual walker or those with vertigo. In a number of places the bank has been completely washed away leaving only the levada wall to walk on with big drops; in most places the wall is about 10" wide but on one stretch it is only 4" wide. (User, 7/08) [Pat & John: We guess this user means the part of the Tornos south of 4 Estradas and Aguas Mansas).

Walk 8: The levada and path from the access at Camacha to the waterfall have not been maintained for a few years now. The path is overgrown and the levada choked and overflowing in places making the path very muddy. We've taken this walk off our list of favourites. User, 7/08) [Pat & John: We are mystified by this one, as this is a very popular route with walkers and there is NO waterfall mentioned in the text).

Walk 10: As of Feb 2008 there were levada works somewhere around the Lamaceiros water house according to a user; workers advised him not to go on. He then walked to Ribeiro Frio and presumably got there by mid-afternoon. The only bus back to Funchal is the 103 at 18.35. [Pat and John comment: It was unclear from this e-mail exactly where the works are taking place and if walkers are not allowed to pass - they are, apparently, only laying pipes, not blasting! In fine weather, it wouldn't be a great hardship to spend 2-3 hours in the afternoon waiting for the bus at Ribeiro Frio, where there is plenty to see and eat! But probably in February it was getting dark and rather boring.] + There are no warnings that we saw, but the stretch from Choupana to the ER 203 at Quinta de Vale Paraiso should not be attempted at all. The levada has been completely washed away for 10 or 15 yards at one point and dropped down the hillside. The soil is very loose and although we managed to scramble past it looks likely that what's left will break away completely soon... The Levada has been completely filled in between the access road at Sitio das Quatro Estradas and the one at Aquas Mansas. Two 12" pipes are being laid under the path so the going is very muddy and slippery when wet and in a number of places you have to climb down into the pipe trench and walk along the pipes. It's part of a multi-million ¤ project according to the notices. Pipes have also been laid between Sitio das Quatro Estradas and the water house at Santo da Serra but on this stretch the levada is being renovated too. (User, 7/08) [Pat & John: We would guess that the stretch from Choupana to the ER 203 at Quinta de Vale Paraiso will be repaired fairly quickly (and would appreciate hearing from users when it is safe again) - otherwise the two tea houses will go out of business! Since there never was any water on the stretch between the access road at Sitio das Quatro Estradas and the one at Aquas Mansas, filling in the path won't ruin the walk. The work will probably be completed soon.]

Walk 11: Instead of, or maybe in addition to, Route 156 from Funchal to Bar Fonte Vermelha, there is a bus route, no.208, also operated by S A M, which runs from the Promenade at Funchal to Porto da Cruz. This route appears to be slower than Route 156, but stops directly outside Bar A Calcadinha. On the Saturday morning of our recent visit to Madeira, we were waiting on the promenade for the 10.30 bus 156 to Marocos. Ahead of (or maybe instead of) the scheduled bus 156, a bus bearing the route number 208 arrived at 10.30. Its destination was shown as Porto da Cruz, which seemed all right, and after checking with the driver that it stopped at Bar Fonte Vermelha, we took it. We took the same service on our return from Machico bus station. Strangely, Route 208 is not listed in the Guia de Autocarros Bus Guide now available from the Tourist Office in Funchal for 1.25 euros. (User, 3/08) [This new bus is not on the SAM web site either; Pat & John] + We caught a 208 from Machico, it didn't go through any tunnels en route and stopped outside the Bar A Calcadinha, immediately opposite the access to the levada. There is a printed timetable for this (frequent) route; the timetable shows that bus 156 also still runs. (User, 5/08) [It looks like it would be best to ask at the SAM bus station for the printed timetable, since this bus is still not on the SAM web site - which has not been updated since 2007! Pat & John]

Walk 13: This walk has been made easy, with boardwalks and protective railings. (User, 1/08) [John and Pat: They were putting all this in when we were there in 2007, but there were no railings at the viewpoints. We suppose these have been installed now - a boon for some, but a pity, too, in such a wild landscape!] + The rock isn't 'sandstone' - it is 'volcanic ash and thin lavas' and it is cut by at least two series of dykes, some of them multiple !! (User, 1/07)

Walk 14: At around the 2 hour mark there is a short eroded stretch with a cable on the cliff side to hang on to - not difficult but after the previous day's rain, this also meant getting drenched by a waterfall in order to hold on! (User, 5/08)

Walk 16: "The first turning should read left not right. " (User, 1/08). Pat & John: No, this is not correct. We are referring to the two adjacent roads opposite the 'Cruz' sign (unless the sign has been moved); of these two ADJACENT roads, you take the one to the right. We were NOT referring to the road slightly further west (the road shown under the bus symbol on the map). + Another user has written to say "Levada do Castelejo" is signposted, in any case, so no chance of getting lost!

Walk 19: In order to get transport we did this walk with an organised group. The path through the tunnels is closed and according to our local leader has been abandonned due to repeated landslides - no sooner did it re-open than it was closed again. So it is necessary to go on your Alternative Walk 1. As you say this takes an hour longer and there is a long stretch of very strenuous high steps, though the whole path was in very good condition (apart from 2 small landslips from the earlier storm) and has safety fencing where needed. Still a wonderful walk - but be prepared for the extra time and effort needed. (User, 5/08)

Walk 23: Another splendid route. Proper metal bridges with metal handrails now cross the Ribeira Grande ( 2h27min). On returning from the Caldeirao do Inferno we investigated the steps that lead UP from the end of the two tunnels. Quite soon you reach what must be the worldís largest barbecue and then a lot of brambles and other thorny vegetation that has overgrown the path. Undeterred we reached the stream bed about 200 metres past this point before deciding it was not worth being torn to shreds by the sea of briars ahead of us. We returned to the tunnel entrances via the steps and home the conventional way. (User, 2/08)

Walk 24 b: We disagree with your brief description at the start, in brackets under GRADE. The initial climb is not tedious in the extreme but follows a well-engineered jeep track through lovely trees to a junction (40 min) where
it might be clearer if the route description said "walk b turns right uphill to the Levado do Pico Ruivo". On the eventual descent from the pipe there is now a metal bridge with metal handrails over the Ribeira da Faja da Nogueira. It might help those with hire cars to point out in the walk description and not just in the car touring notes that the track to the power station is just a dirt track, not metalled. (User, 2/08)

Walk 30: We found a lazy way to do this walk. Take bus 80 from Funchal; it stops for 20min in Ribeira Brava, then continues to Porto Moniz. Get off at Ponta do Sol and wait for the No 4 bus into the village, avoiding the stiff climb from the main road. (User, 3/08)

Walk 31: Very overgrown, even from the start, but still fantastic. (User, 3/08)

Walk 33: The "arrow" and "battered old sign for Caramujo" (1h 30 min) seem to have disappeared, but the path is the first obvious break through the cliffs on returning from Pinaculo. If you want a "sign" of some sort, there's a red-painted inscription on a rock "km D ( illegible)245" at the junction. About 30metres PAST the junction there's another red-painted rock, "D+215". (User, 2/08) + Good news - there are new railings below the waterfalls just before Pináculo, making the passage safe (though you will still get wet!). The same user who sent in a picture of these railings confirmed that the sign for Caramujo has gone and says "all there is now is a bit of red paint on a rock and a small cairn on the main path". He claims the path is not good, but very eroded. We wonder if he was on the correct path, as we cannot imagine that it will have deteriorated so much in a year. For those of you with GPS, the path coordinates are 32°45.2780 N, 17°03.1322 W. (Pat & John, 5/08)

Walk 34: The "beautifully carved façade of the house on the right" in Serrado is now overgrown and derelict. The walk along the levada was through fire-damaged woods (probably recent). (User, 2/08) [Pat & John: Fires of course occur periodically, but the regrowth is very rapid.]

Walk 34: You refer to an 'unpleasant rough track' between Pedragel and the levada - we found this was asphalt most of the way up (to a works depot) and then not rough for the last bit through trees. (User, 5/08)

Walk 37: We started on Alternative walk 1, taking the Rabacal tunnel before walking the Risco levada then the levada das 25 Fontes. We returned to "the path passed 10 minutes earlier". There were no beehives, but plenty of toilet tissue which delineated the zig-zags for a considerable distance. What a shame that fellow walkers deface the path so thoughtlessly! Just beyond the Cedros bridge and tunnel there is now a sign prohibiting further access on the Levada da Rocha Vermelha, but this levada proved to be delightful and quiet, as you suggest in the text. We returned to our start point through the Rocha Vermelha tunnel which is far from uniform in height - brush up on first aid for scalp wounds! We then took a track from the tunnel exit back up to the waterman's hut in front of the Rabacal tunnel entrance. (User, 2/08) [Pat & John: We think the user means they took the grassy path shown on the map back up to the hut at the Rabaçal tunnel entrance - unless this has recently been bulldozed to a jeep track.]

Walk 41: There are works near the road down to Faja da Ovelha. The levada path is divered away from the water channel up to the road for a mile or so, then down again. There are yellow diversion signs. (User, 5/08) [They are probably working on the continuation of the ER101; Pat & John]

SOME USEFUL TAXI TELEPHONE NUMBERS:
24-hour taxi 741 412
municipal taxi ranks
Arco 291 578 032
Boaventura see São Vicente and Arco
Camacha 922 185
Câmara de Lobos 942 407
Caniçal 961 989
Curral see Santo Antonio
Encumeada see Ribeira Brava
Estreito 945 229
Funchal, centre 222 500; 222 000
Funchal, market 226 400
Funchal, west 766 620
Machico 962 220; 962 480
Monte 782 158
Palheiro Ferreiro see Funchal
Ponta do Pargo see Porto Moniz
Portela see Porto da Cruz
Porto da Cruz 562 411
Porto Moniz 852 243
Ribeira Brava 952 349; 951 800
Ribeiro Frio see Monte
Santana 572 540
Santo Antonio (Funchal) 743 110
Santo da Serra 552 100
São Jorge see Santana
São Vicente 842 238
Vinháticos see Ribeira Brava