Sunflower Books: Landscapes of MADEIRA: WALKS AND CAR TOURS

Madeira, 9th edition (2008) and 10th edition (2010); updated 18/11/2011

(To visit the web page for this book on our main site, click here )

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) on Madeira given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

IMPORTANT (1)!! Devastating forest fires, fanned by 100kph winds, hit the island around 13-16 August. The areas worst affected are south from Pico do Arieiro and around Camacha. Several mountain walks have been closed, so DO check the website www.madeiratourism.org and click on 'English', then on 'Ecotourism' for walker's notices. Ten years' of reafforestation around Arieiro, the Santa Luzia Valley and the Parque Ecologico do Funchal have been wiped out. (Sunflower, 8/10)

IMPORTANT (2)!! A catastrophic storm (the worst since records began 150 years ago) hit the south of Madeira on 20 February 2010, causing mudslides. Many people were killed or lost their homes. This followed on from another bad storm in the north of the island earlier in the same month. The worst damage is in an arc running from Ponta do Sol in the west to just short of Machico in the east, and has badly affected the most popular levada walks in our book - those along the Tornos, Serra and Norte, many sections of which are no longer walkable. It is difficult to balance our advice: on the one hand, Madeira now needs the support of tourists more than ever; on the other hand, it would be irresponsible of us not to warn our users of the potential hazards on some walks. Obviously the first priority is to rebuild roads and bridges and to rehouse people; the levadas will be a secondary preoccupation. But the Norte and Tornos are critical levadas, and we would expect the most urgent repairs to be made before summer. So we would urge you to go, not delay any plans - the island is as beautiful as ever, and all the roads are open. But walkers should only proceed where the way ahead looks safe (see specific details on each walk below) - and be prepared for official closures as repair work takes place. WALKING BOOTS ARE A NECESSITY ON ALL WALKS, AS ALL ARE WET AND MUDDY AT THE VERY LEAST.
We are just back from a trip checking as many of our routes as was possible in 2 weeks. Just below is current information (black: 22 March 2010; red: more recent) on all the routes in the 9th and 10th editions; older updates appear below. For official information about walks not described in our book, go to www.madeiratourism.org and click on 'English', then on 'Ecotourism' Note also, walks described as "officially closed" may not be signed as such at the outset; sometimes you will be able to go quite a distance before having to turn back! (Sunflower, 23/03/10)

Car tours/roads: All the roads used in the car tours were open as of 22/3/10, but you will encounter heavy roadworks north of Ribeira Brava and on the road to Curral das Freiras, both of which suffered very badly in the storm. There were still bad rockfalls on the ER110 between Bica da Cana and Eucumeada when we were there last week, although the road was open. Car tour 1: At the 46km-point the "short stretch of cobbled road below menacing cliffs" is finally being rebuilt, so is closed; you must go inland via the ER202. Car tour 4: A NATO radar station is being built at Arieiro. At the 60km-point the text should read "Return, cross the bridge, and pass the ER103 on your left. Then cross a second bridge and perhaps turn left at a sign 'Zona balnear', to visit Faial's pretty lido...". If you take the detour to Arco de São Jorge, you'll have the best pot of tea ever at the Quinta do Arco. + Car Tour 4 (10 June 2010). The road is closed by a landslide at about 12km, just past the miradour - this entails retracing to take the alternative route as no warning is given. (User, 6/10) + Car tour 6: The main road down to the lighthouse is now blocked by the Restaurant O Farol which also appears to be closed. The only way down to the lighthouse is the narrow road past O Fio which has to be shared with construction traffic as they desecrate this wild and beautiful spot to make a golf course. It made the area very dusty and spoilt in July. O Fio closes MONDAYS. (User, 7/10) + Car tour 5: Having seen some photos of the old north coast road (Antiga 101) since the storms of 2010, it is obvious that this old road will never reopen to one-way traffic - instead, it could make a lovely walking route, although in parts it is obliterated by a landslide. (Sunflower, 12/10)

Appetizer walk: This is ok. Note that the road where the walk starts has just changed its name to "Caminho da Irmã do Perpetuo Socorro" and the 'WC' on the map is now a new enclosed cemetery.

Walk 1: Was not checked, as we received a report AFTER the storm reading "Started from the football stadium and the Piornais levada ok all the way to where the walk leaves it, apart from minor debris. Levada do Curral is ok apart from minor debris until I'd guess 250 metres before the isolated house (could hear dogs) but at this point there are two wide avalanche tracks across it. First one reasonably ok to cross on the line of the levada but thought the better of the next one as it was full of tree trunks and looked pretty unstable.That said I met an oldish local (who spoke good English) who told me that he was going to try to cross it to feed the dogs." + We walked with no difficulty from the shopping center along until it got too exposed for comfort. (User, 12/10)

Walk 2: Not checked, BUT is probably in poor condition on the lower slopes, as this was one of the areas worst affected, and there is NO "escape route". Reafforestation had begun on these slopes a couple of years ago, but they are mostly bare and subject to land- and mudslides. + [Following the violet lines on the map] we just did the top of this trail from Pico Areiero over towards Pico do Cedro - a short easy hike with great views. (User, 12/10)

Walk 3: OK apart from minor scrambles; very slippery (as always). The old ER107 offers an escape route (see older update below). To catch the bus back to Funchal be sure to wait at the stop opposite the NUN's VALLEY tea house/restaurant (just downhill from the larger Vale das Freiras restaurant). + The path down from Eira do Serrado to Curral das Freiras is well passable but there are really some scars (small canyons) along the lowest parts of the mountainside. The old road really appears to be completely closed. There has been a rather large land slide over it and even if the path from the V-turn to the old road is O.K. (it did not look used) I am not sure if I would want to cross that landslide on the road! (User, walking group leader, 5/10) [So it looks as if the 'escape route' is out!] + We did this walk last week and it was fine. (User, 6/10) + We did this walk on a very fine day and the good news is that the walk was fine and a lot less slippery than the previous time we did it. The bad news is that the reason for this is the whole of the mountainside has been devastated by the fires (this includes the walk to the lookout point) and there is almost no vegetation to slip on. Most of the chestnuts at the top appear to have survived but from there down everything has been cooked to a cinder almost as far the road at the bottom. In fact the acrid smell is still very prominent. There are already signs of the vegetation starting to sprout again but I'd imagine that it will take a number of years before it is back as before. The landslide on the disused road is still there. Also almost at the bottom there is a fallen tree with numerous branches blocking the way. This may require some to go on all fours to get under, whilst a larger person with a rucksack would struggle to get through. (User, 10/10). We completed this beautiful downhill last Monday. Most is passable as previous update, but there have been several new slips which has made the path very narrow and a new slip near the bottom which has taken a chunk of the path away. We got past by clinging to roots and rock as well as sheer nerve ! Not recommended for anyone not very sure of themselves or of heights. (User, 11/10) + Great hike; we went up and down from Curral on a fine day. A landslide and tree stump remain minor nuisances near the bottom. (User, 12/10)

Walk 4: Officially closed (still closed officially according to a user in 12/10; we went on to climb Pico Grande without problems, then returned to Boca da Corrida). + We started at the Encumeada end, walked halfway to Corrida, then back to Encumeada. Bit of a scramble in places, but fine for those sure of foot. We met 5 people coming from Corrida, who said they had had no problems. (User, 1/11) + There was a feeble oil drum barricade at the end of the vehicle track below Encumeada at the start of the path proper before the downpipe to the power station, but this is easly bypassed. The route is devasted by fire but perfectly passable, there is some fire debris on the path throughout, plus a couple of minor landslides to negotiate. Generally OK but be prepared to get very dirty (ash and much carbonised heather !). (User, 9/10) +

Walk 5: The main walk is ok (user, 12/10) + The Alternative walk is not. Aviceiros was completely ruined in the storms, which badly affected the Campanário Valley. The section from the top of Torreiros to Aviceiros and below has been totally devasted by fire. Aviceiros appears to have been completely destroyed. (User, 9/10) [Editor's note: This was the fire in August 2010 referred to above.)

Walk 6: Short walk 1 is now OK; the bridge in the Ribeira da Caixa has been replaced. On the main walk, at about 1h42 continue on the ER229 for an extra 200 metres to avoid a hole in levada crossing. Short walks 2 and 3 and the rest of the levada to Eira do Mourao (alternative ending) are easily viable except for 2 concrete water crossings where you have to climb up and down 1 metre high concrete slabs - most walkers could cope with this. (User, 2/11) + Alternative ending: the 2000 steps are open, but the expert extension to the power station (not checked) is NOT recommended, as there are landslides on this already-dangerous route. (still accurate as of 12/5/10 according to a user) + No problems on the limited hike we did, Quinta Grande to Boa Morte above Campanario. The levada is silted by landslides and dirt loosened by the rains after the forest fires. (User, 12/10)

Walk 7: We walked the total length of the Tornos in three days (walk 7). The damage did not seem as bad as reported in your updates. Starting from Monte the Babosas Chapel is no longer. The path past the Botanical Garden Cable car is fine and the choice of paths at 350m is signposted. The southern one, down to the old stone bridge and up to Romeiros is fine. The northern one to where the Levada emerges from the tunnel has been badly affected by land slips. Passably with care, good boots and a stick. From then on the levada remains unchanged apart from the loss of a few hand rails. Continuing through Romeiros, Choupana, Palheiro to the tunnel was fine. We walked through without any difficulty although the path was very wet in the second half. We felt it was easier than the long walk over the top which we did on the return trip. No problems to Camacha. From then on the risks of vertigo are worse because of frquent small landslips, at one point we had the choice of walking on a 12" black plastic pipe or the thin wall of the levada above a vertcal drop of several hundred feet. The final long curved tunnel with windows was passable but a small landslip made the path sloping and slippery. We left the levada by a cobbled path directly below electricty wires and not the later one described in your book. This was overgrown but not difficult to follow and leads easily up to Quatro Estradas. (User, 11/10) + We started at Monte/Babosas towards Romeiros, took the upper trail but bailed out at the waterfall viewpoint. The upper trail looked bad. (User, 12/10)+ Short walk 1: the path was blocked at Choupana Hills resort. The gates across the Levada path were locked, no explanation why but both gates on each side of the road were locked so no access wasavailable. We had to abandon our walk. (User, 2/11)

Walk 8: This walk was officially closed, but has been repaired. The latest news says "A few bits of fairly easy scrambling plus a few very narrow bits." (User, 11/11) + But another user says "We hiked up from Assomada. We didn't get far before the trail conditions were poor. (User, 12/10)

Walk 9: Not checked, but this walk always sees a lot of storm damage; NOT advisable. + I did this walk in July as a whort walk, with the suggested Alternative at the end of the Levada Nova. The levada looked as if it were used as a sewage canal and really stank. Also very overgrown and with 2-3 landslides. You have to be really surefooted. There's no bridge at the end of the levada any more, and you can only cross the ford in very low water. Then I tried to find the steps up to Santo da Serra and they are almost impossible to find (a workman helped me). The steps are completely overgrown - you can only guess at where they might be as you struggle up through a jungle. A lot of steps are hidden under leaves and earth and so are very slippery. Certainly not to be recommended! (User, 8/10) [Pat's comment: I don't think this user, a German, had looked at the German update page for the book - he doesn't even seem to have been aware of the February storms which would account for all the damage. Obviously this levada does not have top priority for repair, although he did see workmen.] + Short walks 1 and 2 were very good except for one fallen tree and a wet waterfall crossing. (User, 2/11) + We went on the short walk yesterday picking it up after turning right at Quinta da Paz. There were lots of workmen on the levada - they had cleaned out the first section and were putting new concrete on the later sections. It was an easy walk up to the water catchment but crossing the river was risky even though the water level was not high. We did find the steps\path up to the next levada but it would be virtually impossible if it was wet. The small section of the Levada dos Tornos was nearly blocked in 2 places so there was lots of scrambling. A lovely walk especially with the strong wind blowing lots of mist up the valley. (User, 4/11)

Walk 10: This walk - the easiest on the island - is now only suitable for adventurous walkers. Short walk 1: 30min along the levada a large waterfall blocks the way: 10m before it you have to make your way down into the canyon, cross the stream, and climb out the other side. 10min later the path is totally broken; climb up left to a cobbled path, follow it for 10m, then go back down to the levada. Short walk 2: Not checked. Short walk 3: Some scrambling until just west of Sítio das 4 Estradas, where there is a huge collapse and you'll have to turn back. Short walk 4: Not checked, but a post-storm user reports: "section starting from Santo da Serra water house, no problem, a small new levada has been cut into the uphill side of this wide path all the way to the Lamaceiros water house, where work should be finished on 31 March. Much big-tree damage below Lamaceiros around and beyond the Posto Forestal (which miraculously was not hit). + We did Short Walk 4 and can confirm that there is no problem. (User, 4/11) + From Choupana to Achadinha the walk seemed in better condition than when we last walked it in January, before the floods. There were obvious signs of the fire and land slips but not to interfer with the walk. We met more than the usual number of walkers and no-one reported any major problems, although the condition of the levadas was poor. (User, 11/10)

Walk 11: All OK, but after the 1h-point there is no longer a wooden bridge at the head of the Noia Valley; you have to wade across the stream. + The wooden bridge has now been replaced by a new concrete causeway. (User, 4/11)

Walk 12: OK, but see older update below - the promenade ending is still closed and you have to take the road past the stadium. Whaling museum still not open. + The promenade is open. (User, 11/10) + On the second part of the walk there is a new cemetery. Walk ahead past it, then look for the levada on the left. (User, 3/11) + As the older updates state, near the fourth pylon it is VERY easy to drift too much to the right on the verge of a coastal cliff. Even worse this cliff has all the landmarks described in the book (bedrock, sharp left turn, around 20 meters below the pylon). This situation might be worsened by the fact that many people have chosen this wrong path and it is at least as clear as the main path. If you find your way blocked by a very dangerous looking and narrow (10 inches) ending, turn back, the right path goes higher up on the mountain side. This wrong bedrock area makes a very nice spot for some refreshments though... The renovation of the levada path has been completed. There is now no more need to diverge from the levada and all even a bit dangerous places have been railed. No need to walk in the levada at 2h50. (User, 5/11) + I tried to do this today (17/11/2011) starting from Canical. The newly refurbished levada is blocked with debris, jammed under a small footbridge, only a few hundred yards from the Canical end. It, and the adjacent ground, were completely awash. Not wearing wellington boots, we turned back. (Please note, I have done many walks in Madeira, am a mountaineer of many years experience and do not lightly abandon a "walk"!!!!) (User, 11/11) [Editor's note: we would be interested to hear from other walkers: has the blockage been cleared?]

Walk 13: Officially open and fine according to the government web site. + The route has changed slightly from the description in the book, but is well marked and has new steps. All the cliff edge parts are now well fenced. There is a large picnic area at the warden's house with picnic tables. There also appear to be toilets but these were locked when we were there. (User, 6/10) + Well fenced. Casa do Sardinha has a little sheltered area where people were changing babies nappies (one could use it as a shelter if the weather is bad), but what looked like doors to the toilets were still closed. I continued to the top. It was very skiddy. You need good grips on your boots and walking sticks. (User, 10/10) + Parked at the end of the road by the snack shack. No problems at all. Was raining and the "decking path" was a bit slippy thats all. (User, 1/11) + All safe and well maintained now, with steps replacing the rock scrambles, and fences on the scary bits. You can even climb the hill at the end (the Murro do Furado) using a newly constructed and well-fenced series of steps, although the old warning notice has not been removed. It is quite a climb, but you will be rewarded by further spectacular views from the summit. (User, 6/11)

Walk 14: Not checked but met people who had done it and said it was no more dangerous than usual; was not affected by the storms. + On the way down from Larano there is no longer a stone-laid path by the caves as they have built a small levada along this this trail, so now there is just a concrete levada and a dirt path. We followed the path down to the beach and easily crossed the stream on the way to Porto da Cruz. There was no sign of a new bridge there, but it is possible that there will be one, as there was a guy working on new concrete steps on the path just above the beach. (User, 5/10) [Editor's note: This user, a walking group leader, obviously had no problem with the main walk.] + We did this walk on 15 June. Some trees have fallen across the old stone trail, but none that can't be clambered over quite easily. However, there has been a rockfall or landslide or both on the coastal promenade about 10 minutes before the end of the walk and a fence has been erected across the road.. There was no sign of any activity, so presumably it'll be a while before this is cleared. There is an alternative route into Porto da Cruz about 2 minutes before you reach the roadblock: Walk along the coastal promenade till you see a house on your left with peach-coloured walls and dark green shutters. Go up the stone steps immediately after the house. In total you have to go up 3 flights of steps linked by 2 paths to reach the road above. When you reach the road, turn right and walk downhill. You come to another fence on the other side of the road block. Just before the fence there is a wide track on the left. Follow the track downhill. When you reach the road, turn left and then immediately right on a bend and follow the road into Porto da Cruz. The total walk took us 10 minutes longer than usual. (User, who has obviously done the walk more than once, 6/10) + Alternative walk: Great hike. The landslide referred to above has closed the road up from Porta do Cruz to Larano; this will take time to repair. We now know to turn off the via rapida at the Galp station and look for the Camino do Larano. We parked at Larano at the end of the normal paved road and hiked past Ponta do Espigão Amarelo. There were a few tricky bits including a makeshift bridge but no real hazards. (User, 12/10)

Walk 15: Not checked, but should be ok. + At 40 mins. "swing sharp left down minor road"... There is a no through road sign here, but this refers to a landslide which blocks vehicles but is no problem for walkers to pass. (User, 11/10) + The old cobbled trail is clear. When we reached the tarmaced road at the end we picked up the other end of the Levada Castelejo and followed this all the way to Cruz and the start of walk 16 which we hope to do another time. Total time from Potela to Cruz approx 2 -1/2 to 3 hours. (User, 11/10)

Walk 16: Not checked, but a post-storm report from users who had previously done this walk a few times (their favourite) said the levada was broken in places, covered with mud, and they turned back as there was no protection. + The Levada has been repaired again, some repair work is still going on along the footpath or on small bridges. Only at some points protection was missing, but no dangerous situations found. Beautiful walk! (User, 5/10) + A great hike. We went both ways from Cruz, to the end of Castelejo and then over to Referta. (User, 12/10)

Walk 17: Not checked (but this is a part of the island not particularly damaged by the storms)

Walk 18: Not checked, but a post-storm report by a users says "New large landslip between Pontinha and Ponta de S Jorge which crosses both the lower coastal track and your purple alternative way up but got across these ok. There wasn't a no entry sign at top of this purple alternative, but I'd guess that there might be soon.The other main tracks are ok." Sunflower checked the top of the alternative, and it was very clean (looked newly cleaned), with NO warning sign. + Great hike. We started in Santana, down to Calhau, over to Ponta de São Jorge, up the alternative up the cliff over to the lighthouse then on to Vigia. The alternative up is fine with a new but flimsy wooden guard rail. We got lost trying to find the back shortcut from the lighthouse to Vigia and ended up taking the road. (User, 12/10)

Walk 19: Officially closed according to the government web site. Sunflower does NOT recommend doing this walk while it is closed. However, here is a report from someone who did do it. Wooden barriers are in place across the path near the top of Pico Areiro, and also below Pico Ruivo at the junction with the path coming up from Achada Do Teixeira. All of this area has been devasted by the August fire and is quite unstable in places. The route through the tunnels is fine, though there is debris on the path in places (ash, cinder, fallen rocks). The route across the face of Torres is unstable in places, there are some small landslides to negotiate, quite a lot of the fencing has gone completely (along with sections of the path), and debris continues to fall from above (helmet is recommended, don't consider going this way during or after rain). The route is fine beyond from the shoulder of Torres to the junction with the Achada do Teixeira (there is even a little greenery in places). One of the benefits of the path being closed is that you can have the entire place to yoursel ! (User, 10/10) + Closed with a firm barricade which we respected. The road to Achada is open and the trail to Ruivo is still barricaded but this was ignored by all. The trail is quite safe. All the wooden guard rails at the top were destroyed by fire and fire damage is extensive on the slopes but the rest house was open and not damaged by the fire. (User, 12/10)

Walk 20 (and short walk): Officially closed according to the government web site. Sunflower does NOT recommend doing this walk while it is closed. However, here is a report from someone who did do it. The road to Achada Do Teixeira is closed at a metal barrier at Pico Das Pedras. Wooden barriers attempt to deter walkers around the rest house below Pico Ruivo (the rest house is open for business but has no customers !). Sections between Puico Ruivo and the Torrinhas Pass have been ravaged by fire but the path is generally OK. The ascent beyond the Torrinhas Pass involves a clamber through fallen and burnt forest debris at one point where the ground was still smouldering one month after the fire. Beyond Pico do Jorge the path passes through more fire ravaged territory (you will get dirty !), there are occasional obstructions all the way to the final descent to Encumeada but all are all easily negotiated and the structure of the path is fine. The descent to Encumeada is untouched by fire. The start / end of this path near the road here is taped off to deter walkers and there is a "Closed - Danger" sign. (User, 10/10)

Walk 21: Not checked, but not in an area that suffered greatly in the storms.

Walk 22: Officially open and fine according to the government web site. (6/10) + Fencing is well maintained, apart from one broken post about 5 min. before the Caldeirão Verde. However the standard of protection drops markedly when you pass the Caldeirão Verde, and within 2 min. you are faced with a narrow, unfenced path beside a sheer drop. We had intended to find the picnic spot at the 1h45min point, but we turned back and picnicked at the Caldeirão Verde itself. Idyllic anyway of course! (User, 6/11)

Walk 23: Officially open and fine as far as Caldeirão Verde according to the government web site. (6/10) + Officially closed beyond Caldeirão Verde, but there were only two really minor landslides which were not dangerous at all. However almost all fences were gone. The steps to the upper levada were difficult, especially downwards. Wouldn't like to go there after a rainfall! Other than that it was a wonderful walk! (e-mail, 6/10) + Good condition throughout; there is a new bridge in the Inferno. The continuation of this route above the Levada do Puico Ruivo would make an excellent trip to the top of Pico Ruivo, combining a classic levada walk with a trip to the highest point on the island. Shame about the popularity of the path to the Calderao, leave early (eg before 8.30am), you can have the levada and the Calderao to yourself for most of the morning. (User, 10/10)

Walk 24: Not checked, but not in an area that suffered greatly in the storms. Would expect a and b to be okay; the Alternative walk may be broken in places.

Walk 25 and alternatives: Officially open and fine according to the government web site. (6/10) + (Confirmed by a user, 10/10) + As suspected the whole route has been completely revamped. There are now sturdy metal posts together with wiring at at least chest height at every single bit of the walk which is vertiginous. If you suffer from vertigo as I do this makes the walk actually do-able! (User, 1/11) + Alternative walk 1: alternative 1. There is some heavy landscaping going on near the three farmbuildings (2h30), that might affect the selection of route in the near future. The grassy road was still easy to find with the help of the buildings, but it seems that a road or something is going to be build in front of the buildings and it might obstruct some of the paths. (User, 5/11)

Walk 26: Not checked, but a post-storms report from a user said: "clear apart from some fallen trees in the woods below Boneca and antennae.Some workers were already clearing these"

Walk 27: Walk a was unfortunately not checked. + We parked at the smaller mast in the parking spaces, walked up the road opposite for 5 mins then dropped to the left onto the levada - No problems at all. (User, 1/11) + A post-storm report on Walk b reads: I went down the Entrosa track from Arco to Boaventura and then back up it again to Arco and felt that your previous user reports [see below] exaggerate the dangers. There was a metal temporary road works style "no entry" barrier but only half way across the start of the track at Snack Bar Arco. Some recent debris about 300 metres from start of track. Further down there was debris and some missing barrier at the first steep bend and below this the partly eroded section with interesting cane and blue cord "barrier" more for show than to hang on to. + We walked from the cafe at the bottom. The path is marked by a handpainted sign. The railings were down in a lot of places and replaced with rope and pegs. It all looks scary but the pathway is fine. (User, 1/11)

Walk 28: This walk is officially open and fine, BUT since Walk 22 is closed, it now needs to be accessed from the Pico Ruivo path (see map on reverse of touring map - it's PR1.1)

Walk 29: Officially open and fine according to the government web site. (6/10)

Walk 30: Not passable; parts are officially closed; the very sturdy bridge at the head of the Ribeira da Caixa (about 1h05min) is gone. This area, and Tabua, were very badly affected. + Alternative walk (Lombada levadas), no problem, both in excellent condition, there is a lot of activity going on in the bed of the Riberia da Ponta do Sol below the southerly sections of these levadas towards Lombada (a new road ?). (User, 9/10) + Doing the walk in reverse, we got to near the Corujeira viewpoint, and the levada has vanished entirely. We used quite a lot of stepped footpaths as well as roads to walk down to Tabua. The former coast road to Ribeira Brava was walkable but muddy in places. (User, 2/11)

Walk 31: Not checked, but this area was badly affected; not recomended. + Disappointing. We descended from the road to the hunting lodge. Here we were disappointed there was no trail out along the great-looking ridge [he is referring to Crista do Galo]. We followed the levada for a while, but it became too overgrown to enjoy. (User, 12/10)

Walk 32: No problem, open, good condition. (User, 9/10) + This started well at Encumeada but the Folhadal tunnel was closed for repairs. Work crews were active. Enjoyed the views along the Levada dos Rabaças to the short tunnel but turned around here due to the water and mud in the tunnel. (User, 12/10)

Walk 33: No problem, open, good condition. (User, 9/10) + Great hike in spite of clouds and light rain. Your specific description was excellent. Walked the Levada de Serra as far as a large waterfall where the sheet metal cover was bent down across the trail. Perhaps it was passable, but we looped back up the optional trail to Bica da Cana. (User, 12/10) + We parked at the Car Park by the Bica Da Cana refuge. Absolutely beautiful. Iff you only do one walk on Madeira, do this one, but take waterproofs as the waterfalls off the cliff take no prisoners, The viewpoint at Bica Da Cana is one of the best views we have ever seen. The E110 had closed signs at the crossroads with the 209 and at the Encumeada end, this appears to be for roadworks - but we passed through on a Sunday (as did plenty of locals). (User, 1/11) + The government website says this is closed at Lombo do Mouro. At the 45 min point, where the short stretch would be very dangerous if the railings were down, the railings are in fact down and there has obviously been a rock fall.There is a large sheet of corrugated metal propped up against some of the still standing railings which I suspect has been put there to close the path. I also suspect that some brave soul has pushed this to one side to prove they can still do the walk! We returned at this point. (User, 1/11)

Walk 34: this is fine. + The massive road construction here has scarred the lighthouse area. This project now seems suspended as an unnecessary expense in a bankrupt country. (User, 12/10)

Walk 35: Not checked; should be ok. We parked at the Christ the King statue then walked down the road and dropped right onto the levada. No problems at all. (User, 1/11)

Walk 36: There has been a massive landslide at the head of the Riberia da Ponta do Sol, the levada has been totally obliterated and it is not possible to progress here, irrespective of the way you use to reach this point (via either route 36 or 32). Looks like there is much more to come down here, there is a supply cable in place from the track to the viewpoint on the headland between the Riberia da Ponta do Sol and Cascalho which has been used to assist with minor repairs on the now dry levada to the east of the Riberia da Ponta do Sol. (User, 9/10)

Walk 37: Officially open and fine according to the government web site. Also, NO SIGN of the planned cable car! + The top 2 levadas are fine. BUT the 'stone laid path' (3h20min) from L. da Rocha Vermelha up to L das 25 Fontes has been landslided and is destroyed. There is a very difficult rough scramble in its place using treeroots and vertical climbing - not for the faint hearted. I recommend returning to descent path and retracing steps. (User, 10/11)

Walk 38: No problem, open, good condition. (User, 9/10)

Walk 39: Not checked; no signs of damage in this area, so should be OK

Walk 40: Officially open and fine according to the government web site. + We extended this walk by going right to the other end of the village to the Aparthotel Paul do Mar where you can pick up an old cobbled zigzag path out of Paul do Mar. We took this and managed to do about 3/4 of it before it got too narrow and the rockfalls became more frequent, but it was worth doing for the stunning views over Paul do Mar. (User, 1/11)

Walk 41: Not checked; not in a storm-damaged area. Users who had done sections said it was OK.

Walk 42: Officially open and fine according to the government web site. + We parked at the recreation area and cafe (nice cakes and cappucino!) Walked as per the guide, no problems. TAKE A TORCH! We were told that there was 20cm of water in the first tunnel! It turned out to be a large puddle 5cm deep if that, then the rest dry but very narrow path, what you come out to at the end of that tunnel is like "The Lost World!". Make sure you have that
waterproof, It is well worth it, and watch your head in the tunnel if you are over 5'10"! We did'nt go any further than the end of the first tunnel. User, 1/11)

Older updates follow below

Accommodation: There are now several youth hostels on Madeira: see www.pousadasjuventude.pt

Buses changes since this edition went to press
Bus 3 does not exist any more; the route is no No 137, with quite different times. (User, 8/07) [You will have to enquire at a Rodoeste kiosk about this, since their web site still shows Bus 3 and no bus 137 - Pat & John] + Friends staying elsewhere from us suggested catching the BUS 3 to Estreito at a specific time. In view of the above information, I purchased a recent bus timetable (November 2007) and found BUS 3 was not mentioned, nor was it in the timetable of the previous year. We went to our bus stop with a view to taking the BUS 137 -which IS in the timetable - or any alternative to Cabo Girao. We noted that the timetable at the bus stop still showed the BUS 3. BUS 3 duly arrived around its expected time so do not believe the timetable! I am aware that this information may not be of much help to you in updating the website! (User, 6/08)
Bus 6 has a Mon-Fri departure at 19.00 from Funchal to Sao Vicente. The 14.30 to Funchal starts at 14.20 in Fajo do Penedo. [These have appeared on the Rodoeste web site.] + THE 14.45 ARCO-FUNCHAL buscurrently runs 15min EARLIER and passes over Encumeada at 16.00, not 16.15. (User, 2/09)
Bus 20 the Mon-Fri 12.30 from Santo da Serra has become 12.20. On weekdays there's also one at 14.00. [These have be added to SAM web site.]
Bus 23 (only weekdays) has also 2 very early buses at 7.00 and 8.00
Bus 29 has a last departure from Funchal now not at 22.30 but 23.30. An e-mail (Jan 08) advises us that bus 29 is now called Bus 129 - MAYBE this was to avoid confusion with yellow town bus 29, OR MAYBE they are renumbering all the buses.
Bus 60 : the 11.00 and 19.15 buses do not run Saturdays
Bus 80: There is a 14.35 departure on Saturdays (except end of year) from Funchal via Ponta do Pargo The bus leaving Porto Moniz at 16.00 is now daily. + A user tells us (11/07) that the 80 bus does not now get to Santa till 13.10, having stopped 20min in Ribeira Brava (not 10min). He says the return bus departing Porto Moniz gets back to Funchal at 20.00, not 19.30.
Bus 139: This now departs Porto Moniz at 16.45 not 16.30 (according to a user, 11/07); since it goes via the Encumeada tunnel, it gets back to Funchal at 18.30 - a very speedy journey
Bus 208:See under Walk 11 - this would appear to be a new bus. (3/08)

Flights: Great news for frequent travellers to Madeira: from 28 October Easyjet is going to fly daily to Funchal from Stansted and 3 times weekly from Bristol for as little as 50 £ return (if booked early)
www.easyjet.com. (e-mail, 7/07)

Appetizer walk: See comments about buses 80 and 139 above. + Here is a pleasant extension to the walk, giving views of Porto Moniz from the other side. When you leave the levada near the end of the walk, turn right on the road to emerge just
below the church in Porto Moniz. Turn right up the main road past the town hall. Take the first road on the left, Caminha da Ladeira, and climb steeply. Before the first sharp right hand bend, turn left onto a narrow concrete path sign-posted Vereda da Vigia. Follow this concrete path, with some steps and signs across the hillside, then a narrow grassy path to steps up to the Vigia - an old whale look-out point with a picnic table and views of the town and the sea. About 15 minutes from the town hall. Return to the main road and continue down into Porto Moniz. If you are staying in Porto Moniz, as we were, you can do the walk up to Santa and down again, taking in the Vigia on the way down. Going up to Santa, take main road up to the church, then the cobbled road to the right between the church and the town hall. Just above the church, at an old public tap and basin, turn left onto the cobbled Caminha da Pedra Mole and climb upwards to join the route well above the levada. (User, 11/08)

Walk 1: Town bus 2 (Papagaia Verde) also goes to Quebradas and stops at the mini-market crossroads. Map page 43: Levada do Curral from Madeira Shopping to Pico do Buxo area is highlighted as for an alternative walk but there is no mention of it in the write up (an oversight from an earlier book I suspect). This section of levada is also now signposted on the ground as "Levada do Poco Barral". Also on the map Poco Barral is missing a cedilla (Poço). (User, 1/09) + There has been a small landslip towards the top of the steps leading from the Levada dos Piornais to Pinheiro das Voltas, blocking the way and undermining the path above. It looked very fresh and we did not attempt to climb over, although we later met people who had done so. We returned to the route of the 16A bus and walked up the road to Pinheiro das Voltas. (e-mail, 2/09) + After the storm of 20 February, I started from the football stadium and the Piornais levada ok all the way to where the walk leaves it,apart from minor debris.Levada do Curral is ok apart from minor debris until I'd guess 250 metres before the isolated house (could hear dogs) but at this point there are two wide avalanche tracks across it.First one reasonably ok to cross on the line of the lavada but though better of the next one as it was full of tree trunks and looked pretty unstable. That said, I met an oldish local (who spoke good English) who told me that he was going to try to cross it to feed the dogs. (User, 3/10)

Walk 2: Once you get to the far side of the river the left turn and footpath are no more but a new gravel jeep track has appeared.If you follow this all the way up you will eventually find the Levada da Negra which goes across the track. At this point turn left and follow the walk as before. (User,11/08) [Pat & John comment: we think this user, who visits Madeira frequently, has a very old copy of the book, but include this comment in case it is helpful.]

Walk 3: The old ER107 road has been permanenty blocked for all traffic from the Curral end to Eira do Serrado. All traffic must now use the new tunnel. In the walk description: "As the trail makes a V-turn to the left, you are just level with the old road tunnel under the Eira." At this point it is easy to climb onto the old road and use this to walk down to Curral. With no traffic and still all the splendid views, this turns the walk into an EASY alternative to the described route. The remark "...you'll be a source of some amusement to passing motorists" no longer applies and should be removed. (User, 10/07) [Pat & John comment: We would be surprised if this road is permanently closed as opposed to being made one-way only (like the 'Antiga 101' in the north of the island. We were told in Sep. 2007 that the road was closed for repairs.] + The old road is still closed - and looks to be fairly permanently blocked off. (User, 3/09) + Bus 81. If catching this bus in Curral das Freiras to return to Funchal make sure you are at the correct bus stop. We stood at a stop (on the opposite side of the road to where we had been dropped off) only to be informed minutes after the bus was due that the bus did not come this way and had to race round to a bus stop at the top of the village where the roads joined and you could almost see the tunnel, to catch it. Not the best thing just after an evening meal and bottle of wine. (User, 11/09)

Walk 4: IMPORTANT: The return bus (number 6) to Funchal from Encumeada is now at 16.00 (not 16.15) - and on the day we were there it left 4 minutes early! It's important to be there in good time, because there are no later buses. (User, 2/09)

Walk 6: A suggestion for a new short walk. If you catch the 0930 number 7 bus from Funchal to Ribiera da Quinta Grande (arrives ~1020) you have plenty of time to walk to the concrete balcony at the end of the walk and back to Boa Morte for a beer before catching the 1430 number 148 bus back to Funchal. (User, 7/08)

Walk 7: The stretch of the Levada between Sitio das Quatro Estradas and Aguas Mansas suffered a lot of damage in the April storm and is currently not suitable for the casual walker or those with vertigo. In a number of places the bank has been completely washed away leaving only the levada wall to walk on with big drops; in most places the wall is about 10" wide but on one stretch it is only 4" wide. (User, 7/08) [Pat & John: We guess this user means the part of the Tornos south of 4 Estradas and Aguas Mansas). Short walk 1: The bus turned round below the village at Romeiros and access to the levada was uphill from the bus stop via some concrete steps to the left of the bus shelter. (User, 2/09) + There has been a landslip on the levada path between Choupana and Romeiros. This has been temporarily stabilised and rough wooden railings installed, but the path is now quite narrow and further work will be needed. On the path between Romeiros and Babosas there has been a landslip above the path, partly covering it; further down the path a large tree has fallen, which has to be clambered over. (e-mail, 2/09) + The Jasmin tea house appears to be permanently closed; the owners wanted to sell up but could not. (e-mail, 9/09) + Short walk 2, IMPORTANT: Meeting the Caniço road (1h05min),
turn left but, a minute uphill, at the Laboratório Agricola, turn right on Travessa João Claudio Nobrega. Cross a road, then GO UNDER the main Camacha road bridge and down into Ribeirinha... (Authors, 3/10) + Short walk 3 - Camacha to Lombo Grande: A section (2 to 3 mtrs long) of the levada channel and the bank has collapsed away leaving only the left hand vertical of the concrete channel. Can't remember the exact location as I only thought to let you know some while later but it is on the section that has the large bore steel pipe running alongside it so I guess 30 mins to 1 hr out. The levada has been "repaired" with a section of plastic pipe of the same diameter as the steel pipe spanning the gap, but walkers have to walk on the remaining bit of levada wall (200mm or so wide) at the side of the big steel pipe. Not really any difficulty for regular and confident walkers but may be so for occasional walkers. (User, 1/09) + Walking from Monte to Romeiros, on the Tornos, just as you enter Romeiros the Levada path is blocked by a new road. There are steps down to where the bus turning circle was. It is from this bus turning circle that the new road goes up the hillside to a new house.
Romeiros is always a little confusing if one wants to walk the Tornos but this has made it more so. (User, 5/09)

Walk 8: The levada and path from the access at Camacha to the waterfall have not been maintained for a few years now. The path is overgrown and the levada choked and overflowing in places making the path very muddy. We've taken this walk off our list of favourites. User, 7/08) [Pat & John: We are mystified by this one, as this is a very popular route with walkers and there is NO waterfall mentioned in the text). + Walk 8 on your updates says it is very muddy and slippery at the top & overgrown YES it was. We don't like descending much rather climb the hills than slide down them, so we did the walk in reverse from the church at Assomada. This was much easier, bit of a climb at the end. When we saw people coming along the route in the recommended direction they all said it would be better to do it from Assomada. Mind you they said that without having the experience of climbing it. This was one of our best walks. We did 8 over the 14 days and enjoyed every one. Can't wait to go back. Your book was BRILLIANT. (e-mail, 2/09) + After the storm of 20 February, I started from church at Assomada.Once on the levada there is a warning closed sign just before some concrete steps with railing which go up steeply to the left.I continued along the levada for about half a mile but came to a substantial wooden pallisade barring the way,with several stop signs painted in red. Not a new construction ie pre 20 Feb. (User, 3/10)

Walk 9: At the start of the walk, after the "park and a hotel on the left" you arrive at a new roundabout not mentioned in the walk description. This is at the end of the new bypass; go straight on here and almost immediately reach the Y-Fork at Quinta Da Paz referred to in the text. Follow walk as written from there. (User, 10/09)

Walk 10: As of Feb 2008 there were levada works somewhere around the Lamaceiros water house according to a user; workers advised him not to go on. He then walked to Ribeiro Frio and presumably got there by mid-afternoon. The only bus back to Funchal is the 103 at 18.35. [Pat and John comment: It was unclear from this e-mail exactly where the works are taking place and if walkers are not allowed to pass - they are, apparently, only laying pipes, not blasting! In fine weather, it wouldn't be a great hardship to spend 2-3 hours in the afternoon waiting for the bus at Ribeiro Frio, where there is plenty to see and eat! But probably in February it was getting dark and rather boring.] + There are no warnings that we saw, but the stretch from Choupana to the ER 203 at Quinta de Vale Paraiso should not be attempted at all. The levada has been completely washed away for 10 or 15 yards at one point and dropped down the hillside. The soil is very loose and although we managed to scramble past it looks likely that what's left will break away completely soon... (User 7/08) There are absolutely no problems on the stretch from Choupana to the ER203 at Quinta de Vale Paraiso, as stated in the previous comment, and no sign of there having been a problem. (e-mail, 2/09) + The Levada has been completely filled in between the access road at Sitio das Quatro Estradas and the one at Aquas Mansas. Two 12" pipes are being laid under the path so the going is very muddy and slippery when wet and in a number of places you have to climb down into the pipe trench and walk along the pipes. It's part of a multi-million ¤ project according to the notices. Pipes have also been laid between Sitio das Quatro Estradas and the water house at Santo da Serra but on this stretch the levada is being renovated too. (User, 7/08) [Pat & John: Since there never was any water on the stretch between the access road at Sitio das Quatro Estradas and the one at Aquas Mansas, filling in the path won't ruin the walk. The work will probably be completed soon.]

Walk 11: Instead of, or maybe in addition to, Route 156 from Funchal to Bar Fonte Vermelha, there is a bus route, no.208, also operated by S A M, which runs from the Promenade at Funchal to Porto da Cruz. This route appears to be slower than Route 156, but stops directly outside Bar A Calcadinha. On the Saturday morning of our recent visit to Madeira, we were waiting on the promenade for the 10.30 bus 156 to Marocos. Ahead of (or maybe instead of) the scheduled bus 156, a bus bearing the route number 208 arrived at 10.30. Its destination was shown as Porto da Cruz, which seemed all right, and after checking with the driver that it stopped at Bar Fonte Vermelha, we took it. We took the same service on our return from Machico bus station. Strangely, Route 208 is not listed in the Guia de Autocarros Bus Guide now available from the Tourist Office in Funchal for 1.25 euros. (User, 3/08) [This new bus is not on the SAM web site either; Pat & John] + We caught a 208 from Machico, it didn't go through any tunnels en route and stopped outside the Bar A Calcadinha, immediately opposite the access to the levada. There is a printed timetable for this (frequent) route; the timetable shows that bus 156 also still runs. (User, 5/08) [It looks like it would be best to ask at the SAM bus station for the printed timetable, since this bus is still not on the SAM web site - which has not been updated since 2007! Pat & John] + The confusion over bus numbers (156 or 208) referred to in previous updates still applies. We could not establish which number was correct for the 10.30 SAM bus from Funchal. However, this bus definitely goes to Marocos and definitely stops at the Bar A Calcadinha, right opposite the levada. (User, 2/09) + There is now a cafe/bar right on the levada above Ribeira Seca. This is new since we last did this walk a few years ago. With regard to buses, we obtained a new timetable from the SAM bus station. Bus 208 has largely replaced bus 156, although there are still a few with this number. Bus 208 leaves Funchal at 10.30 and arrives at Marocos at 11.40. It would appear that you could also take bus 53 at 10 am, arriving at Machico at 10.50, and change there to bus 156. This starts from Machico at 11 am and arrives at Marocos at 11.15, 25 minutes earlier than the 208. (User, 2/09)

Walk 12: At the fourth pylon, we tried the suggestion to go below on the seaward side but gave up as a landslip had left a perilously unguarded ledge with a sheer drop below. We climbed up to the pylon, then had to work our way down through undergrowth to the path below (sticks very useful.) At Canical, the Whaling Museum is apparently due to open on a new site in autumn 2009, and the old museum was closed (Feb 2009.) (User, 3/09) + Contrary to the above update, as we approached the fourth pylon and branched off right and made our way (following red blobs) below the pylon we found no landslip. The path was good. I wonder if the user in the update took another right branch (downward) shortly after the first, which we followed a few steps before deciding to stick with the red blobs. They are installing safety netting on the cliffs above the promenade at Canical so at Natal footbridge it may be necessary to turn left into the village instead of right until the work is finished. They are renovating the levada with a grant of over 1M euros!. Workman were working at the tunnel end but allowed us to pass. Only 2 vehicles passed us in the road tunnel - much quieter now the expressway has been built. (User, 2/10)

Walk 13: This walk has been made easy, with boardwalks and protective railings. (User, 1/08) [John and Pat: They were putting all this in when we were there in 2007, but there were no railings at the viewpoints. We suppose these have been installed now - a boon for some, but a pity, too, in such a wild landscape!] + The rock isn't 'sandstone' - it is 'volcanic ash and thin lavas' and it is cut by at least two series of dykes, some of them multiple !! (User, 1/07)

Walk 14: At around the 2 hour mark there is a short eroded stretch with a cable on the cliff side to hang on to - not difficult but after the previous day's rain, this also meant getting drenched by a waterfall in order to hold on! (User, 5/08) + Before the point with the cable, there's been a landslip (March 2009) which has obliterated the path (for probably not much more than a metre ) completely. It's possible to clamber over the earth if you're prepared for a scramble with both hands, but not for the faint hearted! (User, 04/09)

Walk 16: "The first turning should read left not right. " (User, 1/08). Pat & John: No, this is not correct. We are referring to the two adjacent roads opposite the 'Cruz' sign (unless the sign has been moved); of these two ADJACENT roads, you take the one to the right. We were NOT referring to the road slightly further west (the road shown under the bus symbol on the map). + Another user has written to say "Levada do Castelejo" is signposted, in any case, so no chance of getting lost!

Walk 17: We went up from Cruz and returned the same way. This path has been cleared. It was quite easy going up, treacherous coming down when wet. (User, 2/10)

Walk 18: The old bridge on the 'coast path' between Calhau and Pontinha (crossing the Corrego do Farrobo) is crumbling away and is only passable with care. The alternative path rising from Ponta de Sao Jorge ( 'if you are pressed for time' and shown in purple on your map p88) is now closed with a rather permanent looking 'No Entry' sign at the top. The main path up to the cemetery was open, although littered with debris near the top following recent high winds. There are road tunnel construction works near the end of the walk at Tanque. (e-mail, 02/09) + After the storm of 20 February, I walked to Vigia and back from Santana (new youth hostel). New large landslip between Pontinha and Ponta de S Jorge which crosses both the lower coastal track and your purple alternative way up but got across these ok. There wasn't a no entry sign at top of this track but I'd guess that there might be soon.The other main tracks are ok. (User, 3/10)

Walk 19: In order to get transport we did this walk with an organised group. The path through the tunnels is closed and according to our local leader has been abandonned due to repeated landslides - no sooner did it re-open than it was closed again. So it is necessary to go on your Alternative Walk 1. As you say this takes an hour longer and there is a long stretch of very strenuous high steps, though the whole path was in very good condition (apart from 2 small landslips from the earlier storm) and has safety fencing where needed. Still a wonderful walk - but be prepared for the extra time and effort needed. (User, 5/08) + The shorter path through the tunnels is open. There is a landslip, but there is a well worn safe path over it. We made a loop to Ruivo by going out via the longer path and coming back via the tunnels. (It was hard work climbing back up all those steps to Arieiro - didn't notice them on the way out!!!) (User, 2/10)

Walk 20, Alternative: The descent to Curral is blocked by storm-damaged trees. You can get through, but it is very tiring. (User, 4/09)

Walk 22: We did this walk even though there was a sign saying "closed and danger". Some short sections of safety railings had collapsed, otherwise fine. Unable to proceed beyond just after the waterfall on to Walk 23 as there was too much water falling on to very slippery surface on an exposed edge. Retraced our steps to the first tunnel and took PR1.1 towards Ruivo. It is a lovely path, complete with hundreds of wooden pole steps. If you like climbing steeply uphill for 2 hours it is great. If you don't then don't! At the junction with path on Walk 19/20/PR1.2 we turned left to Achada do Teixeira, got a car lift from a friendly walker to Rancho Madeirense (your description of using footpath 19 back to Queimadas put us off using it as we were feeling pretty tired by now) and then used levada to get back to Queimadas. (User, 2/10)

Walk 23: Another splendid route. Proper metal bridges with metal handrails now cross the Ribeira Grande ( 2h27min). On returning from the Caldeirao do Inferno we investigated the steps that lead UP from the end of the two tunnels. Quite soon you reach what must be the worldís largest barbecue and then a lot of brambles and other thorny vegetation that has overgrown the path. Undeterred we reached the stream bed about 200 metres past this point before deciding it was not worth being torn to shreds by the sea of briars ahead of us. We returned to the tunnel entrances via the steps and home the conventional way. (User, 2/08)

Walk 24 b: We disagree with your brief description at the start, in brackets under GRADE. The initial climb is not tedious in the extreme but follows a well-engineered jeep track through lovely trees to a junction (40 min) where
it might be clearer if the route description said "walk b turns right uphill to the Levado do Pico Ruivo". On the eventual descent from the pipe there is now a metal bridge with metal handrails over the Ribeira da Faja da Nogueira. It might help those with hire cars to point out in the walk description and not just in the car touring notes that the track to the power station is just a dirt track, not metalled. (User, 2/08)

Walk 25: The Levada do Furado between Ribeiro Frio and the Lamaceiros Waterhouse is closed at both ends, for maintenance work along its length until March 2010. It is possible to do Alternative Walk 1 in reverse, starting opposite the trout hatchery just above Ribeiro Frio, and continuing to the pools at the source of the levada in the Ribeira do Poco Bezerro and then retracing your steps to Ribeiro Frio. This is a very pleasant walk, but you do have to wait for the 18.40 bus back to Funchal. (Various users, 10/09) + On completing this walk at Portela, turn right (not left) for the bus stop, which is below the bar on the opposite (right hand) side of the road. (User, 2/09)

Walk 26: After the storm of 20 February, the walk was clear apart from some fallen trees in the woods below Boneca and antennae.Some workers were already clearing these and cut a way through for me. (User, 3/10)

Walk 27 b: The narrow path just after Ribeira do Porco is almost completely eroded.The cliff path is positively dangerous and has deteriorated badly over the course of about the last year. Not only are many of the handrails missing - needless to say, at the most vertiginous points - but also there have been a number of landslips on the path and sections of it are simply loose shale. I would not attempt it again and would not advise anyone else to. Having said that I have read in the Madeiran press over the course of the last week that the Madeirans are planning to renovate in particular the paths on walk 18 (particularly at Calhau), with longer term plans to renovate other North coast paths including the one at Arco. (User, 11/08) + We attempted this walk in late June 2009 but found the path is now closed from both sides due to a landslide which the locals said happened in April 2009. The path is now too dangerous and has been closed using metal barriers and a 'no entry' sign. The rock fall (landslide) is clear to see from the Boaventura side and it started above the path on it 'cliff' section and has taken away a significant section of the path and handrail (in fact we thought we could see the remains of the handrail on the beach below!!) We walked the first section from Boaventura and it is still OK to get to the ruins and sample a small section of the path. However it is clearly impassable and the cliff face is in a dangerous condition. (User, 7/09) +  After the storm of 20 February, I went down the Entrosa track from Arco to Boaventura and then back up it again to Arco and felt that your previous user reports exaggerate the dangers.There was a metal temporary road works style "no entry" barrier but only half way across the start of the track at Snack Bar Arco.Some recent debris about 300 metres from start of track.Farther down there was debris and some missing barrier at the first steep bend and below this the partly eroded section with interesting cane and blue cord "barrier" more for show than to hang on to. (User, 3/10)

Walk 28: The spring (fonte) is not signposted but is easily found and a spiritual little spot. Just afterwards, instead of reaching the Val da Lapa posto florestal we found a bulldozed clearing and a confusion of signs. We assume the posto florestal is up the path with earthen stairs but we went up there for a couple of hundred metres before getting fed up and turning back. The ongoing route to Ilha is obvious though. (User, 10/09)

Walk 30: We found a lazy way to do this walk. Take bus 80 from Funchal; it stops for 20min in Ribeira Brava, then continues to Porto Moniz. Get off at Ponta do Sol and wait for the No 4 bus into the village, avoiding the stiff climb from the main road. (User, 3/08) + The Levada Nova is closed in the Ribeira da Caixa - between Jangao and the road to Candelaria - until the end of May 2009 for reconstruction work. Start from the E222, walking uphill through Candelaria to join the levada at the 1h15min mark. The levada is also closed running north from Lombada da Ponta do Sol into the Ribeira da Ponta do Sol. (e-mail, 2/09) + We took bus 80 to Ponta do Sol and walked up to Lombada do Ponta do Sol using the green steps at the left of the shopping centre. When you reach the village, take the first road on your left, just before the chapel and walk in a straight line to the Solar (about 35 minutes). (User, 11/09)

Walk 31: Very overgrown, even from the start, but still fantastic. (User, 3/08)

Walk 32: We combined walks 32 and 33 (effectively the PR17), starting from Encumeada along the 'Norte' as far as Voltas, then up the rough road past the ruins of Casa do Caramujo, a further climb along the cobbled track of the PR17 joining walk 33 below Bica da Cana, then back to Encumeada via Pinaculo, Lombo do Mouro and the E110. A stunning walk through forests, tunnels and varied terrain, particularly so in January with the higher paths hard with frost (even at 2pm on a sunny day) and icicles suspended from the waterfalls below Bica da Cana ! Very glad of the new railings! Distance 17.6km/11mi, 5h30min. Grade moderate, 540m ascent/descent. (e-mail, 2/09) + The tunnel (14 minutes) is currently closed for building works. (User, 2/10)

Walk 33: The "arrow" and "battered old sign for Caramujo" (1h 30 min) seem to have disappeared, but the path is the first obvious break through the cliffs on returning from Pinaculo. If you want a "sign" of some sort, there's a red-painted inscription on a rock "km D ( illegible)245" at the junction. About 30metres PAST the junction there's another red-painted rock, "D+215". (User, 2/08) + Good news - there are new railings below the waterfalls just before Pináculo, making the passage safe (though you will still get wet!). The same user who sent in a picture of these railings confirmed that the sign for Caramujo has gone and says "all there is now is a bit of red paint on a rock and a small cairn on the main path". He claims the path is not good, but very eroded. We wonder if he was on the correct path, as we cannot imagine that it will have deteriorated so much in a year. For those of you with GPS, the path coordinates are 32°45.2780 N, 17°03.1322 W. (Pat & John, 5/08) + The 'battered old sign for Caramujo' is now replaced by a smart three-finger signpost showing the way to Lombo do Mouro 3.2km, Bica da Cana 0.6km and Caramujo 3.9km /Encumeada 10.9km. There are similar signposts where the PR17 meets the E110 at Lombo do Mouro and where it joins the E208 above Casa do Caramujo. (e-mail, 2/09) + For clarity, the "battered old sign for Caramujo" has not been replaced by a "smart three finger signpost showing the way..to Bica da Cana" at the point where the return path leaves the main path. This three finger signpost is at the point a kilometer or so north west where the outward path from the start of the walk arrives at the T junction with the PR17. (User, 05/09)

Walk 34: The "beautifully carved façade of the house on the right" in Serrado is now overgrown and derelict. The walk along the levada was through fire-damaged woods (probably recent). (User, 2/08) [Pat & John: Fires of course occur periodically, but the regrowth is very rapid.]

Walk 34: You refer to an 'unpleasant rough track' between Pedragel and the levada - we found this was asphalt most of the way up (to a works depot) and then not rough for the last bit through trees. (User, 5/08) + The contented cows at Nossa Senhora da Boa Morte were less content on a showery day in February ! Towards the end of the walk, by the narrow levada bridge there is also a large water tank. The eroded jeep track soon becomes an asphalt road (as your earlier user observed). This leads to a stone-crushing / cement works just below the levada. Heavy vehicles shuttle from here to the tunnel construction works further south on the ER101. (e-mail, 2/09)

Walk 35: When the tarred road ends at Rabaçal there is now a paved track to the right signed to Risco. This crosses and then follows the Risco levada to the right and leads to the junction where 25 Fontes is signposted down to the left. (User, 2/09)

Walk 37: The powers that be are planning to build a cable car to Rabaçal and then down to 25 Fontes. To read about this and sign an online petition of protest, go to www.madeirastop.com!! There are some 5000 signatories, but it may already be too late. (Pat & John, Nov 2008) + Having just returned from Madeira, we understand that the Rabacal cable car was approved by the Regional Government last week 11th/12th February. (e-mail, 2/09) [For those who love Madeira and have been visiting as long as we have, this will come as no surprise. (John and Pat)] + We started on Alternative walk 1, taking the Rabacal tunnel before walking the Risco levada then the levada das 25 Fontes. We returned to "the path passed 10 minutes earlier". There were no beehives, but plenty of toilet tissue which delineated the zig-zags for a considerable distance. What a shame that fellow walkers deface the path so thoughtlessly! Just beyond the Cedros bridge and tunnel there is now a sign prohibiting further access on the Levada da Rocha Vermelha, but this levada proved to be delightful and quiet, as you suggest in the text. We returned to our start point through the Rocha Vermelha tunnel which is far from uniform in height - brush up on first aid for scalp wounds! We then took a track from the tunnel exit back up to the waterman's hut in front of the Rabacal tunnel entrance. (User, 2/08) [Pat & John: We think the user means they took the grassy path shown on the map back up to the hut at the Rabaçal tunnel entrance - unless this has recently been bulldozed to a jeep track.] + On the section after the bridge at 3 hrs 20 it says "turn sharp left up a stone laid path... to begin a climb back to Rabacal". This path criss crosses a gully that has been severely affected by a landslide. The path is visible to the left and right of the landslide but the middle sections have gone (I will send a couiple of photos later). It is possible to traverse the soil and rubble with care as we did and a few others before us by the look of things. It was reasonably straightforward but for anyone concerned about exposure this might not be a good idea as traversing a steep, muddy section with the possibility of a long slide/fall might not induce a warm feeling! (User, 3/11) + This walk was closed about 400m after leaving the start as described in your guide! Very frustrating. There was no mention of the closure on the official walk notice board at the start of the path but after about 50m there was a "dead end" or cul-se-sac" road sign that was on a pole and looked rather worn - being a traffic sign we missed the significance of this (as did others) and in any event it did not say how far ahead was the dead end. The way was blocked by a fence and padlocked gate as well as a no entry sign. Attempts had been made to ensure you could not go around the outside but evidence suggested a few had clearly tried. The cause of the closure appears to be a landside originating from just below the 110 road above. It is being worked on but I suspect the authorities do not want people walking below the "action" in case they are hit by falling rocks. The landslide also extended below the levada but the water levels were fine so assume there was no actual damage to the levada itself. (User, 3/11)
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Walk 41: There are works near the road down to Faja da Ovelha. The levada path is divered away from the water channel up to the road for a mile or so, then down again. There are yellow diversion signs. (User, 5/08) [They are probably working on the continuation of the ER101; Pat & John] + Construction work is underway on several new tunnels on the ER 101 between Raposeira and Ponta do Pargo. The new road seems to be tunnelling through the hillsides at the same altitude as the levada, hence walkers are currently diverted onto the old road in several places. The good news is that as well a construction of the new road, reconstruction of the levada is also evident in places, so hopefully the route will eventually be restored. (e-mail, 2/09) + The levada has been reconstructed and is open all the way to Cabo. The only road works are on the junction of the road down to Faja da Ovelha. (User, 7/09)

Walk 42: was closed for maintenance, but has now reopened. (Sunflower, 7/09)

SOME USEFUL TAXI TELEPHONE NUMBERS:
24-hour taxi 741 412
municipal taxi ranks
Arco 291 578 032
Boaventura see São Vicente and Arco
Camacha 922 185
Câmara de Lobos 942 407
Caniçal 961 989
Curral see Santo Antonio
Encumeada see Ribeira Brava
Estreito 945 229
Funchal, centre 222 500; 222 000
Funchal, market 226 400
Funchal, west 766 620
Machico 962 220; 962 480
Monte 782 158
Palheiro Ferreiro see Funchal
Ponta do Pargo see Porto Moniz
Portela see Porto da Cruz
Porto da Cruz 562 411
Porto Moniz 852 243
Ribeira Brava 952 349; 951 800
Ribeiro Frio see Monte
Santana 572 540
Santo Antonio (Funchal) 743 110
Santo da Serra 552 100
São Jorge see Santana
São Vicente 842 238
Vinháticos see Ribeira Brava