Sunflower Books: Landscapes of MADEIRA: WALKS AND CAR TOURS

Madeira, 9th edition (2008; released 12/2007); updated 26/02/2010

(To visit the web page for this book on our main site, click here )

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) on Madeira given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

IMPORTANT!! A catastrophic storm hit the south Madeira on 20 February 2010, causing mudslides. Many people have been killed, injured or are missing. This follows on from another bad storm that hit the north of the island last month. For official information about road and walk closures, go to www.madeiratourism.org and click on 'English'. (Sunflower, 26/02/10) A brief overview follows:

Roads closed: ER101 between Ponta Delgada and Boaventura; ER101.10 between Madalena do Mar and Ponta do Sol; Via Rapida from Ribeira Brava to Meia Légua and then ER 104 between Meia Légua and Serra de Água (= no way from Ribeira Brava to Encumeada), ER110 between Encumeada and Estanquinhos, ER223 from Estreito da Calheta to Jardim do Mar, ER227 Ribeira da Tabua, ER229 from the bridge at Lugar da Ribeira to Campanário; Via Rapida to Paul do Mar access.

Roads open but with roadworks: ER102 between Camacha and Santo da Serra, ER103 between Monte and Poiso, ER107 between Romeiras and Curral das Freiras.

Walks closed: PR 7 Levada do Moínho (Ribeira da Cruz - Lamaceiros), PR 9 Levada do Caldeirão Verde (Queimadas - Caldeirão Verde), PR 10 Levada do Furado (Ribeiro Frio - Lamaceiros - Portela), PR 12 Caminho Real da Encumeada (Boca da Corrida ­ Encumeada), PR 16 Levada da Fajã do Rodrigues (Fajã da Amã ­ Ribeira do Inferno, PR 17 Caminho do Pináculo e Folhadal (Lombo do Mouro ­ Caramujo - Folhadal - Encumeada), PR 18 Levada do Rei (Quebradas ­ Ribeiro Bonito)

Walks open: PR1 Pico do Areeiro to Achada do Teixeira, PR 1.1 Achada do Teixeira to Ilha, PR 1.2 Pico do Pico to Pico Ruivo, PR 1.3 Pico do Areeiro to Encumeada, PR 5 Vereda das Funduras (Portela ­ Maroços), PR 6 Levada das 25 Fontes (Rabaçal ­ Risco), PR 8 Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço, PR 11 Ribeiro Frio to Balcões, PR 13 Vereda do Fanal (Assobiadores ­ Fanal), PR 14 Levada dos Cedros (Fanal ­ Curral Falso), PR 15 Vereda da Ribeira da Janela (Curral Falso ­ Ribeira da Janela), PR 19 Vereda do Paul do Mar, Queimadas ­ Pico das Pedras

I've been doing some of your walks just post 20 Feb 2010 storms/floods and this is what I've found (see comments for Walks 1 8, 18, 26, 27b dated 3/10. At the moment it seems to be a matter of attempting the walks and seeing how far you can get before meeting a serious landslip. (User, 3/10)

Accommodation: There are now several youth hostels on Madeira: see www.pousadasjuventude.pt

Buses changes since this edition went to press
Bus 3 does not exist any more; the route is no No 137, with quite different times. (User, 8/07) [You will have to enquire at a Rodoeste kiosk about this, since their web site still shows Bus 3 and no bus 137 - Pat & John] + Friends staying elsewhere from us suggested catching the BUS 3 to Estreito at a specific time. In view of the above information, I purchased a recent bus timetable (November 2007) and found BUS 3 was not mentioned, nor was it in the timetable of the previous year. We went to our bus stop with a view to taking the BUS 137 -which IS in the timetable - or any alternative to Cabo Girao. We noted that the timetable at the bus stop still showed the BUS 3. BUS 3 duly arrived around its expected time so do not believe the timetable! I am aware that this information may not be of much help to you in updating the website! (User, 6/08)
Bus 6 has a Mon-Fri departure at 19.00 from Funchal to Sao Vicente. The 14.30 to Funchal starts at 14.20 in Fajo do Penedo. [These have appeared on the Rodoeste web site.] + THE 14.45 ARCO-FUNCHAL buscurrently runs 15min EARLIER and passes over Encumeada at 16.00, not 16.15. (User, 2/09)
Bus 20 the Mon-Fri 12.30 from Santo da Serra has become 12.20. On weekdays there's also one at 14.00. [These have be added to SAM web site.]
Bus 23 (only weekdays) has also 2 very early buses at 7.00 and 8.00
Bus 29 has a last departure from Funchal now not at 22.30 but 23.30. An e-mail (Jan 08) advises us that bus 29 is now called Bus 129 - MAYBE this was to avoid confusion with yellow town bus 29, OR MAYBE they are renumbering all the buses.
Bus 60 : the 11.00 and 19.15 buses do not run Saturdays
Bus 80: There is a 14.35 departure on Saturdays (except end of year) from Funchal via Ponta do Pargo The bus leaving Porto Moniz at 16.00 is now daily. + A user tells us (11/07) that the 80 bus does not now get to Santa till 13.10, having stopped 20min in Ribeira Brava (not 10min). He says the return bus departing Porto Moniz gets back to Funchal at 20.00, not 19.30.
Bus 139: This now departs Porto Moniz at 16.45 not 16.30 (according to a user, 11/07); since it goes via the Encumeada tunnel, it gets back to Funchal at 18.30 - a very speedy journey
Bus 208:See under Walk 11 - this would appear to be a new bus. (3/08)

Flights: Great news for frequent travellers to Madeira: from 28 October Easyjet is going to fly daily to Funchal from Stansted and 3 times weekly from Bristol for as little as 50 £ return (if booked early)
www.easyjet.com. (e-mail, 7/07)

Appetizer walk: See comments about buses 80 and 139 above. + Here is a pleasant extension to the walk, giving views of Porto Moniz from the other side. When you leave the levada near the end of the walk, turn right on the road to emerge just
below the church in Porto Moniz. Turn right up the main road past the town hall. Take the first road on the left, Caminha da Ladeira, and climb steeply. Before the first sharp right hand bend, turn left onto a narrow concrete path sign-posted Vereda da Vigia. Follow this concrete path, with some steps and signs across the hillside, then a narrow grassy path to steps up to the Vigia - an old whale look-out point with a picnic table and views of the town and the sea. About 15 minutes from the town hall. Return to the main road and continue down into Porto Moniz. If you are staying in Porto Moniz, as we were, you can do the walk up to Santa and down again, taking in the Vigia on the way down. Going up to Santa, take main road up to the church, then the cobbled road to the right between the church and the town hall. Just above the church, at an old public tap and basin, turn left onto the cobbled Caminha da Pedra Mole and climb upwards to join the route well above the levada. (User, 11/08)

Walk 1: Town bus 2 (Papagaia Verde) also goes to Quebradas and stops at the mini-market crossroads. Map page 43: Levada do Curral from Madeira Shopping to Pico do Buxo area is highlighted as for an alternative walk but there is no mention of it in the write up (an oversight from an earlier book I suspect). This section of levada is also now signposted on the ground as "Levada do Poco Barral". Also on the map Poco Barral is missing a cedilla (Poço). (User, 1/09) + There has been a small landslip towards the top of the steps leading from the Levada dos Piornais to Pinheiro das Voltas, blocking the way and undermining the path above. It looked very fresh and we did not attempt to climb over, although we later met people who had done so. We returned to the route of the 16A bus and walked up the road to Pinheiro das Voltas. (e-mail, 2/09) + After the storm of 20 February, I started from the football stadium and the Piornais levada ok all the way to where the walk leaves it,apart from minor debris.Levada do Curral is ok apart from minor debris until I'd guess 250 metres before the isolated house (could hear dogs) but at this point there are two wide avalanche tracks across it.First one reasonably ok to cross on the line of the lavada but though better of the next one as it was full of tree trunks and looked pretty unstable. That said, I met an oldish local (who spoke good English) who told me that he was going to try to cross it to feed the dogs. (User, 3/10)

Walk 2: Once you get to the far side of the river the left turn and footpath are no more but a new gravel jeep track has appeared.If you follow this all the way up you will eventually find the Levada da Negra which goes across the track. At this point turn left and follow the walk as before. (User,11/08) [Pat & John comment: we think this user, who visits Madeira frequently, has a very old copy of the book, but include this comment in case it is helpful.]

Walk 3: The old ER107 road has been permanenty blocked for all traffic from the Curral end to Eira do Serrado. All traffic must now use the new tunnel. In the walk description: "As the trail makes a V-turn to the left, you are just level with the old road tunnel under the Eira." At this point it is easy to climb onto the old road and use this to walk down to Curral. With no traffic and still all the splendid views, this turns the walk into an EASY alternative to the described route. The remark "...you'll be a source of some amusement to passing motorists" no longer applies and should be removed. (User, 10/07) [Pat & John comment: We would be surprised if this road is permanently closed as opposed to being made one-way only (like the 'Antiga 101' in the north of the island. We were told in Sep. 2007 that the road was closed for repairs.] + The old road is still closed - and looks to be fairly permanently blocked off. (User, 3/09) + Bus 81. If catching this bus in Curral das Freiras to return to Funchal make sure you are at the correct bus stop. We stood at a stop (on the opposite side of the road to where we had been dropped off) only to be informed minutes after the bus was due that the bus did not come this way and had to race round to a bus stop at the top of the village where the roads joined and you could almost see the tunnel, to catch it. Not the best thing just after an evening meal and bottle of wine. (User, 11/09)

Walk 4: IMPORTANT: The return bus (number 6) to Funchal from Encumeada is now at 16.00 (not 16.15) - and on the day we were there it left 4 minutes early! It's important to be there in good time, because there are no later buses. (User, 2/09)

Walk 6: A suggestion for a new short walk. If you catch the 0930 number 7 bus from Funchal to Ribiera da Quinta Grande (arrives ~1020) you have plenty of time to walk to the concrete balcony at the end of the walk and back to Boa Morte for a beer before catching the 1430 number 148 bus back to Funchal. (User, 7/08)

Walk 7: The stretch of the Levada between Sitio das Quatro Estradas and Aguas Mansas suffered a lot of damage in the April storm and is currently not suitable for the casual walker or those with vertigo. In a number of places the bank has been completely washed away leaving only the levada wall to walk on with big drops; in most places the wall is about 10" wide but on one stretch it is only 4" wide. (User, 7/08) [Pat & John: We guess this user means the part of the Tornos south of 4 Estradas and Aguas Mansas). Short walk 1: The bus turned round below the village at Romeiros and access to the levada was uphill from the bus stop via some concrete steps to the left of the bus shelter. (User, 2/09) + There has been a landslip on the levada path between Choupana and Romeiros. This has been temporarily stabilised and rough wooden railings installed, but the path is now quite narrow and further work will be needed. On the path between Romeiros and Babosas there has been a landslip above the path, partly covering it; further down the path a large tree has fallen, which has to be clambered over. (e-mail, 2/09) + The Jasmin tea house appears to be permanently closed; the owners wanted to sell up but could not. (e-mail, 9/09) + Short walk 3 - Camacha to Lombo Grande: A section (2 to 3 mtrs long) of the levada channel and the bank has collapsed away leaving only the left hand vertical of the concrete channel. Can't remember the exact location as I only thought to let you know some while later but it is on the section that has the large bore steel pipe running alongside it so I guess 30 mins to 1 hr out. The levada has been "repaired" with a section of plastic pipe of the same diameter as the steel pipe spanning the gap, but walkers have to walk on the remaining bit of levada wall (200mm or so wide) at the side of the big steel pipe. Not really any difficulty for regular and confident walkers but may be so for occasional walkers. (User, 1/09) + Walking from Monte to Romeiros, on the Tornos, just as you enter Romeiros the Levada path is blocked by a new road. There are steps down to where the bus turning circle was. It is from this bus turning circle that the new road goes up the hillside to a new house.
Romeiros is always a little confusing if one wants to walk the Tornos but this has made it more so. (User, 5/09)

Walk 8: The levada and path from the access at Camacha to the waterfall have not been maintained for a few years now. The path is overgrown and the levada choked and overflowing in places making the path very muddy. We've taken this walk off our list of favourites. User, 7/08) [Pat & John: We are mystified by this one, as this is a very popular route with walkers and there is NO waterfall mentioned in the text). + Walk 8 on your updates says it is very muddy and slippery at the top & overgrown YES it was. We don't like descending much rather climb the hills than slide down them, so we did the walk in reverse from the church at Assomada. This was much easier, bit of a climb at the end. When we saw people coming along the route in the recommended direction they all said it would be better to do it from Assomada. Mind you they said that without having the experience of climbing it. This was one of our best walks. We did 8 over the 14 days and enjoyed every one. Can't wait to go back. Your book was BRILLIANT. (e-mail, 2/09) + After the storm of 20 February, I started from church at Assomada.Once on the levada there is a warning closed sign just before some concrete steps with railing which go up steeply to the left.I continued along the levada for about half a mile but came to a substantial wooden pallisade barring the way,with several stop signs painted in red. Not a new construction ie pre 20 Feb. (User, 3/10)

Walk 9: At the start of the walk, after the "park and a hotel on the left" you arrive at a new roundabout not mentioned in the walk description. This is at the end of the new bypass; go straight on here and almost immediately reach the Y-Fork at Quinta Da Paz referred to in the text. Follow walk as written from there. (User, 10/09)

Walk 10: As of Feb 2008 there were levada works somewhere around the Lamaceiros water house according to a user; workers advised him not to go on. He then walked to Ribeiro Frio and presumably got there by mid-afternoon. The only bus back to Funchal is the 103 at 18.35. [Pat and John comment: It was unclear from this e-mail exactly where the works are taking place and if walkers are not allowed to pass - they are, apparently, only laying pipes, not blasting! In fine weather, it wouldn't be a great hardship to spend 2-3 hours in the afternoon waiting for the bus at Ribeiro Frio, where there is plenty to see and eat! But probably in February it was getting dark and rather boring.] + There are no warnings that we saw, but the stretch from Choupana to the ER 203 at Quinta de Vale Paraiso should not be attempted at all. The levada has been completely washed away for 10 or 15 yards at one point and dropped down the hillside. The soil is very loose and although we managed to scramble past it looks likely that what's left will break away completely soon... (User 7/08) There are absolutely no problems on the stretch from Choupana to the ER203 at Quinta de Vale Paraiso, as stated in the previous comment, and no sign of there having been a problem. (e-mail, 2/09) + The Levada has been completely filled in between the access road at Sitio das Quatro Estradas and the one at Aquas Mansas. Two 12" pipes are being laid under the path so the going is very muddy and slippery when wet and in a number of places you have to climb down into the pipe trench and walk along the pipes. It's part of a multi-million ¤ project according to the notices. Pipes have also been laid between Sitio das Quatro Estradas and the water house at Santo da Serra but on this stretch the levada is being renovated too. (User, 7/08) [Pat & John: Since there never was any water on the stretch between the access road at Sitio das Quatro Estradas and the one at Aquas Mansas, filling in the path won't ruin the walk. The work will probably be completed soon.]

Walk 11: Instead of, or maybe in addition to, Route 156 from Funchal to Bar Fonte Vermelha, there is a bus route, no.208, also operated by S A M, which runs from the Promenade at Funchal to Porto da Cruz. This route appears to be slower than Route 156, but stops directly outside Bar A Calcadinha. On the Saturday morning of our recent visit to Madeira, we were waiting on the promenade for the 10.30 bus 156 to Marocos. Ahead of (or maybe instead of) the scheduled bus 156, a bus bearing the route number 208 arrived at 10.30. Its destination was shown as Porto da Cruz, which seemed all right, and after checking with the driver that it stopped at Bar Fonte Vermelha, we took it. We took the same service on our return from Machico bus station. Strangely, Route 208 is not listed in the Guia de Autocarros Bus Guide now available from the Tourist Office in Funchal for 1.25 euros. (User, 3/08) [This new bus is not on the SAM web site either; Pat & John] + We caught a 208 from Machico, it didn't go through any tunnels en route and stopped outside the Bar A Calcadinha, immediately opposite the access to the levada. There is a printed timetable for this (frequent) route; the timetable shows that bus 156 also still runs. (User, 5/08) [It looks like it would be best to ask at the SAM bus station for the printed timetable, since this bus is still not on the SAM web site - which has not been updated since 2007! Pat & John] + The confusion over bus numbers (156 or 208) referred to in previous updates still applies. We could not establish which number was correct for the 10.30 SAM bus from Funchal. However, this bus definitely goes to Marocos and definitely stops at the Bar A Calcadinha, right opposite the levada. (User, 2/09) + There is now a cafe/bar right on the levada above Ribeira Seca. This is new since we last did this walk a few years ago. With regard to buses, we obtained a new timetable from the SAM bus station. Bus 208 has largely replaced bus 156, although there are still a few with this number. Bus 208 leaves Funchal at 10.30 and arrives at Marocos at 11.40. It would appear that you could also take bus 53 at 10 am, arriving at Machico at 10.50, and change there to bus 156. This starts from Machico at 11 am and arrives at Marocos at 11.15, 25 minutes earlier than the 208. (User, 2/09)

Walk 12: At the fourth pylon, we tried the suggestion to go below on the seaward side but gave up as a landslip had left a perilously unguarded ledge with a sheer drop below. We climbed up to the pylon, then had to work our way down through undergrowth to the path below (sticks very useful.) At Canical, the Whaling Museum is apparently due to open on a new site in autumn 2009, and the old museum was closed (Feb 2009.) (User, 3/09) + Contrary to the above update, as we approached the fourth pylon and branched off right and made our way (following red blobs) below the pylon we found no landslip. The path was good. I wonder if the user in the update took another right branch (downward) shortly after the first, which we followed a few steps before deciding to stick with the red blobs. They are installing safety netting on the cliffs above the promenade at Canical so at Natal footbridge it may be necessary to turn left into the village instead of right until the work is finished. They are renovating the levada with a grant of over 1M euros!. Workman were working at the tunnel end but allowed us to pass. Only 2 vehicles passed us in the road tunnel - much quieter now the expressway has been built. (User, 2/10)

Walk 13: This walk has been made easy, with boardwalks and protective railings. (User, 1/08) [John and Pat: They were putting all this in when we were there in 2007, but there were no railings at the viewpoints. We suppose these have been installed now - a boon for some, but a pity, too, in such a wild landscape!] + The rock isn't 'sandstone' - it is 'volcanic ash and thin lavas' and it is cut by at least two series of dykes, some of them multiple !! (User, 1/07)

Walk 14: At around the 2 hour mark there is a short eroded stretch with a cable on the cliff side to hang on to - not difficult but after the previous day's rain, this also meant getting drenched by a waterfall in order to hold on! (User, 5/08) + Before the point with the cable, there's been a landslip (March 2009) which has obliterated the path (for probably not much more than a metre ) completely. It's possible to clamber over the earth if you're prepared for a scramble with both hands, but not for the faint hearted! (User, 04/09)

Walk 16: "The first turning should read left not right. " (User, 1/08). Pat & John: No, this is not correct. We are referring to the two adjacent roads opposite the 'Cruz' sign (unless the sign has been moved); of these two ADJACENT roads, you take the one to the right. We were NOT referring to the road slightly further west (the road shown under the bus symbol on the map). + Another user has written to say "Levada do Castelejo" is signposted, in any case, so no chance of getting lost!

Walk 17: We went up from Cruz and returned the same way. This path has been cleared. It was quite easy going up, treacherous coming down when wet. (User, 2/10)

Walk 18: The old bridge on the 'coast path' between Calhau and Pontinha (crossing the Corrego do Farrobo) is crumbling away and is only passable with care. The alternative path rising from Ponta de Sao Jorge ( 'if you are pressed for time' and shown in purple on your map p88) is now closed with a rather permanent looking 'No Entry' sign at the top. The main path up to the cemetery was open, although littered with debris near the top following recent high winds. There are road tunnel construction works near the end of the walk at Tanque. (e-mail, 02/09) + After the storm of 20 February, I walked to Vigia and back from Santana (new youth hostel). New large landslip between Pontinha and Ponta de S Jorge which crosses both the lower coastal track and your purple alternative way up but got across these ok. There wasn't a no entry sign at top of this track but I'd guess that there might be soon.The other main tracks are ok. (User, 3/10)

Walk 19: In order to get transport we did this walk with an organised group. The path through the tunnels is closed and according to our local leader has been abandonned due to repeated landslides - no sooner did it re-open than it was closed again. So it is necessary to go on your Alternative Walk 1. As you say this takes an hour longer and there is a long stretch of very strenuous high steps, though the whole path was in very good condition (apart from 2 small landslips from the earlier storm) and has safety fencing where needed. Still a wonderful walk - but be prepared for the extra time and effort needed. (User, 5/08) + The shorter path through the tunnels is open. There is a landslip, but there is a well worn safe path over it. We made a loop to Ruivo by going out via the longer path and coming back via the tunnels. (It was hard work climbing back up all those steps to Arieiro - didn't notice them on the way out!!!) (User, 2/10)

Walk 20, Alternative: The descent to Curral is blocked by storm-damaged trees. You can get through, but it is very tiring. (User, 4/09)

Walk 22: We did this walk even though there was a sign saying "closed and danger". Some short sections of safety railings had collapsed, otherwise fine. Unable to proceed beyond just after the waterfall on to Walk 23 as there was too much water falling on to very slippery surface on an exposed edge. Retraced our steps to the first tunnel and took PR1.1 towards Ruivo. It is a lovely path, complete with hundreds of wooden pole steps. If you like climbing steeply uphill for 2 hours it is great. If you don't then don't! At the junction with path on Walk 19/20/PR1.2 we turned left to Achada do Teixeira, got a car lift from a friendly walker to Rancho Madeirense (your description of using footpath 19 back to Queimadas put us off using it as we were feeling pretty tired by now) and then used levada to get back to Queimadas. (User, 2/10)

Walk 23: Another splendid route. Proper metal bridges with metal handrails now cross the Ribeira Grande ( 2h27min). On returning from the Caldeirao do Inferno we investigated the steps that lead UP from the end of the two tunnels. Quite soon you reach what must be the worldís largest barbecue and then a lot of brambles and other thorny vegetation that has overgrown the path. Undeterred we reached the stream bed about 200 metres past this point before deciding it was not worth being torn to shreds by the sea of briars ahead of us. We returned to the tunnel entrances via the steps and home the conventional way. (User, 2/08)

Walk 24 b: We disagree with your brief description at the start, in brackets under GRADE. The initial climb is not tedious in the extreme but follows a well-engineered jeep track through lovely trees to a junction (40 min) where
it might be clearer if the route description said "walk b turns right uphill to the Levado do Pico Ruivo". On the eventual descent from the pipe there is now a metal bridge with metal handrails over the Ribeira da Faja da Nogueira. It might help those with hire cars to point out in the walk description and not just in the car touring notes that the track to the power station is just a dirt track, not metalled. (User, 2/08)

Walk 25: The Levada do Furado between Ribeiro Frio and the Lamaceiros Waterhouse is closed at both ends, for maintenance work along its length until March 2010. It is possible to do Alternative Walk 1 in reverse, starting opposite the trout hatchery just above Ribeiro Frio, and continuing to the pools at the source of the levada in the Ribeira do Poco Bezerro and then retracing your steps to Ribeiro Frio. This is a very pleasant walk, but you do have to wait for the 18.40 bus back to Funchal. (Various users, 10/09) + On completing this walk at Portela, turn right (not left) for the bus stop, which is below the bar on the opposite (right hand) side of the road. (User, 2/09)

Walk 26: After the storm of 20 February, the walk was clear apart from some fallen trees in the woods below Boneca and antennae.Some workers were already clearing these and cut a way through for me. (User, 3/10)

Walk 27 b: The narrow path just after Ribeira do Porco is almost completely eroded.The cliff path is positively dangerous and has deteriorated badly over the course of about the last year. Not only are many of the handrails missing - needless to say, at the most vertiginous points - but also there have been a number of landslips on the path and sections of it are simply loose shale. I would not attempt it again and would not advise anyone else to. Having said that I have read in the Madeiran press over the course of the last week that the Madeirans are planning to renovate in particular the paths on walk 18 (particularly at Calhau), with longer term plans to renovate other North coast paths including the one at Arco. (User, 11/08) + We attempted this walk in late June 2009 but found the path is now closed from both sides due to a landslide which the locals said happened in April 2009. The path is now too dangerous and has been closed using metal barriers and a 'no entry' sign. The rock fall (landslide) is clear to see from the Boaventura side and it started above the path on it 'cliff' section and has taken away a significant section of the path and handrail (in fact we thought we could see the remains of the handrail on the beach below!!) We walked the first section from Boaventura and it is still OK to get to the ruins and sample a small section of the path. However it is clearly impassable and the cliff face is in a dangerous condition. (User, 7/09) +  After the storm of 20 February, I went down the Entrosa track from Arco to Boaventura and then back up it again to Arco and felt that your previous user reports exaggerate the dangers.There was a metal temporary road works style "no entry" barrier but only half way across the start of the track at Snack Bar Arco.Some recent debris about 300 metres from start of track.Farther down there was debris and some missing barrier at the first steep bend and below this the partly eroded section with interesting cane and blue cord "barrier" more for show than to hang on to. (User, 3/10)

Walk 28: The spring (fonte) is not signposted but is easily found and a spiritual little spot. Just afterwards, instead of reaching the Val da Lapa posto florestal we found a bulldozed clearing and a confusion of signs. We assume the posto florestal is up the path with earthen stairs but we went up there for a couple of hundred metres before getting fed up and turning back. The ongoing route to Ilha is obvious though. (User, 10/09)

Walk 30: We found a lazy way to do this walk. Take bus 80 from Funchal; it stops for 20min in Ribeira Brava, then continues to Porto Moniz. Get off at Ponta do Sol and wait for the No 4 bus into the village, avoiding the stiff climb from the main road. (User, 3/08) + The Levada Nova is closed in the Ribeira da Caixa - between Jangao and the road to Candelaria - until the end of May 2009 for reconstruction work. Start from the E222, walking uphill through Candelaria to join the levada at the 1h15min mark. The levada is also closed running north from Lombada da Ponta do Sol into the Ribeira da Ponta do Sol. (e-mail, 2/09) + We took bus 80 to Ponta do Sol and walked up to Lombada do Ponta do Sol using the green steps at the left of the shopping centre. When you reach the village, take the first road on your left, just before the chapel and walk in a straight line to the Solar (about 35 minutes). (User, 11/09)

Walk 31: Very overgrown, even from the start, but still fantastic. (User, 3/08)

Walk 32: We combined walks 32 and 33 (effectively the PR17), starting from Encumeada along the 'Norte' as far as Voltas, then up the rough road past the ruins of Casa do Caramujo, a further climb along the cobbled track of the PR17 joining walk 33 below Bica da Cana, then back to Encumeada via Pinaculo, Lombo do Mouro and the E110. A stunning walk through forests, tunnels and varied terrain, particularly so in January with the higher paths hard with frost (even at 2pm on a sunny day) and icicles suspended from the waterfalls below Bica da Cana ! Very glad of the new railings! Distance 17.6km/11mi, 5h30min. Grade moderate, 540m ascent/descent. (e-mail, 2/09) + The tunnel (14 minutes) is currently closed for building works. (User, 2/10)

Walk 33: The "arrow" and "battered old sign for Caramujo" (1h 30 min) seem to have disappeared, but the path is the first obvious break through the cliffs on returning from Pinaculo. If you want a "sign" of some sort, there's a red-painted inscription on a rock "km D ( illegible)245" at the junction. About 30metres PAST the junction there's another red-painted rock, "D+215". (User, 2/08) + Good news - there are new railings below the waterfalls just before Pináculo, making the passage safe (though you will still get wet!). The same user who sent in a picture of these railings confirmed that the sign for Caramujo has gone and says "all there is now is a bit of red paint on a rock and a small cairn on the main path". He claims the path is not good, but very eroded. We wonder if he was on the correct path, as we cannot imagine that it will have deteriorated so much in a year. For those of you with GPS, the path coordinates are 32°45.2780 N, 17°03.1322 W. (Pat & John, 5/08) + The 'battered old sign for Caramujo' is now replaced by a smart three-finger signpost showing the way to Lombo do Mouro 3.2km, Bica da Cana 0.6km and Caramujo 3.9km /Encumeada 10.9km. There are similar signposts where the PR17 meets the E110 at Lombo do Mouro and where it joins the E208 above Casa do Caramujo. (e-mail, 2/09) + For clarity, the "battered old sign for Caramujo" has not been replaced by a "smart three finger signpost showing the way..to Bica da Cana" at the point where the return path leaves the main path. This three finger signpost is at the point a kilometer or so north west where the outward path from the start of the walk arrives at the T junction with the PR17. (User, 05/09)

Walk 34: The "beautifully carved façade of the house on the right" in Serrado is now overgrown and derelict. The walk along the levada was through fire-damaged woods (probably recent). (User, 2/08) [Pat & John: Fires of course occur periodically, but the regrowth is very rapid.]

Walk 34: You refer to an 'unpleasant rough track' between Pedragel and the levada - we found this was asphalt most of the way up (to a works depot) and then not rough for the last bit through trees. (User, 5/08) + The contented cows at Nossa Senhora da Boa Morte were less content on a showery day in February ! Towards the end of the walk, by the narrow levada bridge there is also a large water tank. The eroded jeep track soon becomes an asphalt road (as your earlier user observed). This leads to a stone-crushing / cement works just below the levada. Heavy vehicles shuttle from here to the tunnel construction works further south on the ER101. (e-mail, 2/09)

Walk 35: When the tarred road ends at Rabaçal there is now a paved track to the right signed to Risco. This crosses and then follows the Risco levada to the right and leads to the junction where 25 Fontes is signposted down to the left. (User, 2/09)

Walk 37: The powers that be are planning to build a cable car to Rabaçal and then down to 25 Fontes. To read about this and sign an online petition of protest, go to www.madeirastop.com!! There are some 5000 signatories, but it may already be too late. (Pat & John, Nov 2008) + Having just returned from Madeira, we understand that the Rabacal cable car was approved by the Regional Government last week 11th/12th February. (e-mail, 2/09) [For those who love Madeira and have been visiting as long as we have, this will come as no surprise. (John and Pat)] + We started on Alternative walk 1, taking the Rabacal tunnel before walking the Risco levada then the levada das 25 Fontes. We returned to "the path passed 10 minutes earlier". There were no beehives, but plenty of toilet tissue which delineated the zig-zags for a considerable distance. What a shame that fellow walkers deface the path so thoughtlessly! Just beyond the Cedros bridge and tunnel there is now a sign prohibiting further access on the Levada da Rocha Vermelha, but this levada proved to be delightful and quiet, as you suggest in the text. We returned to our start point through the Rocha Vermelha tunnel which is far from uniform in height - brush up on first aid for scalp wounds! We then took a track from the tunnel exit back up to the waterman's hut in front of the Rabacal tunnel entrance. (User, 2/08) [Pat & John: We think the user means they took the grassy path shown on the map back up to the hut at the Rabaçal tunnel entrance - unless this has recently been bulldozed to a jeep track.]

Walk 41: There are works near the road down to Faja da Ovelha. The levada path is divered away from the water channel up to the road for a mile or so, then down again. There are yellow diversion signs. (User, 5/08) [They are probably working on the continuation of the ER101; Pat & John] + Construction work is underway on several new tunnels on the ER 101 between Raposeira and Ponta do Pargo. The new road seems to be tunnelling through the hillsides at the same altitude as the levada, hence walkers are currently diverted onto the old road in several places. The good news is that as well a construction of the new road, reconstruction of the levada is also evident in places, so hopefully the route will eventually be restored. (e-mail, 2/09) + The levada has been reconstructed and is open all the way to Cabo. The only road works are on the junction of the road down to Faja da Ovelha. (User, 7/09)

Walk 42: was closed for maintenance, but has now reopened. (Sunflower, 7/09)

SOME USEFUL TAXI TELEPHONE NUMBERS:
24-hour taxi 741 412
municipal taxi ranks
Arco 291 578 032
Boaventura see São Vicente and Arco
Camacha 922 185
Câmara de Lobos 942 407
Caniçal 961 989
Curral see Santo Antonio
Encumeada see Ribeira Brava
Estreito 945 229
Funchal, centre 222 500; 222 000
Funchal, market 226 400
Funchal, west 766 620
Machico 962 220; 962 480
Monte 782 158
Palheiro Ferreiro see Funchal
Ponta do Pargo see Porto Moniz
Portela see Porto da Cruz
Porto da Cruz 562 411
Porto Moniz 852 243
Ribeira Brava 952 349; 951 800
Ribeiro Frio see Monte
Santana 572 540
Santo Antonio (Funchal) 743 110
Santo da Serra 552 100
São Jorge see Santana
São Vicente 842 238
Vinháticos see Ribeira Brava