Sunflower Books: Landscapes of MALTA, GOZO & COMINO: WALKS AND CAR TOURS

Malta, Gozo & Comino, 5th edition (2007); Updated 20/04/09

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Updates for walks and car tours (drives) on Malta and Gozo given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

Picnic 26e: A user suggested that in summer you can get to IR-RAMLA by bus. The author comments: This is BUS 42, with an infrequent summer service only [THE SERVICE IS LISTED IN THE TIMETABLES ON p133]. BUT with just 4 buses on Sundays/Public Holidays and 5 on other days between 15 June and 15 September I have not advertised this service. There is no shade and minimal facilities at Ir-Ramla. I am reluctant to encourage Landscapers to use this service and then have to wait hours for the next bus in high summer temperatures or if the weather changed suddenly as it can do in September when the first rains arrive . If you are in doubt just look at the photo on page 33.

Malta-Gozo helicopter service (Page 133): the helicoper connection is no longer run by "Malta Aircharter" but by "HELICOPTEROS DEL SURESTE S.A."

Walk 2: Suggested extension: Instead of returning to Valletta by bus, you could take a water taxi from Vittoriosa (near the Freedom Monument) across the Grand Harbour, landing near the Victoria Gate, to complete an absolutely superb visit. NB: Fort St Angelo currently closed for renovations. (User, 5/07)

Walk 3: There is a spelling mistake on the map on page 44: it should read Triq Il-KbiraWalk 4: In April, very aggressive hunter encountered at Qammieh Point necessitating curtailment of walk back down past the Red Tower (see also Walk 5). (User, 5/07) + Alternative walk: A small matter, and probably incompetence on our part, but we could not find the "lane off to the right" after leave L'Iskorvit/ (User, 1/09)

Walk 5: The Red Tower is open to the public with a small entrance fee on the following dates:
May-Sept: Mon-Thur 10.00-19.00, Fri-Sat 10.00-16.00, Sun 10.00-13.00
Oct-Apr: Mon-Sat 10.00-16.00, Sun 10.00-13.00

Walk 6: Please make it clear that the Ghadira police station is inland, behind the bus stop. We were expecting it to be on the main road, and totally missed it. (User, 3/09)

Walk 7: Pages 56 and 57: From Mgiebah Bay, the recommended diversion can be extended eastwards along the coast as far as Blata I-Bajda. There is a good path nearly all the way, giving excellent coastal views. The CLAY SLOPES need to be climbed close to Blata I-Bajda (little difficulty), before descending them again below Fort Campbell. This route avoids the fort, although it can easily be reached from the coast path if desired. This we did, but found it difficult to find a way out of the fort because of the high perimeter wall. Page 59, alternative end: The text could be clarified by referring to the clearly visible stone steps up the cliff at the far (south) end of the beach. The path is not 'on your right': it goes straight up from the beach and soon reaches the steps. (User, 4/09)

Walk 10: Please amend the top of page 68 to read "Continue downhill at the left bend and cross the bridge". (User, 3/09)

Walk 12: Despite a sign prohibiting motorbikes/all terrain bikes at the farm at the neck of Le Pellegrin, this is being ignored. We were very closely passed by 7 scrambler bikes in the narrow rocky defile skirting the cliff fce. Further on, where the steep descent changes from rcky to earthen, the bikes have cut ruts 40+ cm deep. This is dangerous if there has been rain in the past 72 hours. You certainly need good walking boots and walking sticks here. (User, 1/09)

Walk 13: We had no trouble finding the viaduct to the Dwerja Lines, but walking on the wall is now out of the question, as it is heavily overgrown. However the wide path below the wall is easy. In heavy rain, we never found the 'fort complex' mentioned on page 80 (lines 9-10) - we found ourselves at a sign indicating the end of the Dwerja Lines and beginning of the Victoria Lines. We followed the road and ended up back at Bingemma Gap. (User, 3/09)

Walk 14: In April, there was a no entry sign page 85 "To avoid this obstacle ...." (User, 5/07)

Walk 15: After the 35min-point, where the instruction reads "In a few yards the track swings away to your left: now take a path on the right bank of the watercourse..." Two points here. The instruction is correct in that the path as you look at it is to the right of the watercourse, but "on the right bank" is ambiguous when you cannot see the path: does this mean the right bank of the watercourse, remembering that it is flowing towards you, which would mean the left bank as you view it? lt would be better stated "on the right of the watercourse as it flows towards you (i.e. its true left bank)". The reason we say this is that when we were there (5 February) it was heavily overgrown, and we needed a local smallholder to show us the path: it was invisible because of the overhanging bamboos and high rushes. The region had had a lot of rain, and the path was also very muddy and slippery until you clamber up the bank at its end: fortunately we were wearing hiking
boots - otherwise it would have been extremely difficult. Future walkers should be warned if there have been recent rains. Otherwise this walk was straightforward. (User, 3/09)

Walk 20: The write-up describes two car scrapyards, the second of which has a
'chained dog'. But on 29 March we encountered a real concern at the first scrapyard. This one possesses approx 10 dogs, all running free, most were barking, some aggressively. We are experienced and reasonably hardy walkers but this experience was stressful. On approaching the site the dogs ran to meet us, leaving little chance of retreat and the possibility of a dog attack felt real. Perhaps a re-route just after 'Keyhole' might be advisable. (User, 4/08) + I didn't see a name for "Triq Il-Kavallerizza", which curves up and to the right at the end of the harbour. Asked in the first (and only) shop and the owner said he'd never heard of it! Luckily, a woman 50 yards further up confirmed I was in fact in the correct road... "Keyhole" was undergoing repairs and the "curious old wrought iron balconies" were not to be seen. After passing Keyhole, turning left in front of it (not mentioned in notes), I then mistakenly bore right at the next turn. This brings you out quite a bit higher up the Birzebbuga road but does avoid the scrap yards (and, thus, the dogs) mentioned by the previous person to update this walk. (User, 1/09) + We can understand why other users of the guide (see above) had difficulty in finding the Triq Il-Kavallerizza - we didn't spot any street name either. But the map (if not the instructions) made it clear that it was at the extremity of Marsaxlokk, and the very heipful photo of The Kavallerizza established where we were. The instructions then say "almost immediately beyond the house, tum right (signposted ZEJTUN)". There is now no sign, and we spent some time expioring the adjacent streets for some direction. You are in the middle of a suburban estate. So we had to go back and follow the coast road - as the guide says, not very attractive - to get to Birzebbuga. This point needs new instructions. (User, 3/09) + The following mostly reflect comments by other users: Comment from User 1/09: Triq Il-Kavallerizza does have a street name-plate: it is on the side of the first building immediately round the 90° corner at the far (south) end of the waterfront... Comment from User 3/09: The house named The Kavallerizza is set back from the road on the right. It is easily missed because the building is now partly engulfed by new development. Do not turn right up the track which passes immediately in front of The Kavallerizza. Instead, continue up the road from Marsaxlokk for less than 50m and turn right where there is a prominent signpost to ZETJUN... Further comments from User 1/09: There are no 'old wrought iron balconies' at Keyhole, which was being refurbished during out visit in 4/09. We strongly endorse the remarks by User 1/09 about dangerous unchained dogs at the first scrapyard (is there a second?). The track is also reduced to less than 1m wide by scrap vehicles, making the risk of a dog attack all the greater. This route is unpleasant and entirely unsuitable. The alternative, very soon after bearing left past Keyhole, is simply to turn right instead of left at the T junction. This track leads directly to the Birzebuga road but at a point further north than indicated in the book. The reference to the Roman villa site is unclear. It cannot be reached from the Ghar Dalan cave, as the text implies. (User, 4/09)

Walk 21: "beware of chained dogs" - we encountered unchained dogs just before the chained ones - fortunately their owner was around. (5/07)

Walk 22: At te 45min-point, you pass by the chapel shown overleaf (not 'below'). (Sunflower)

Walk 23: After Hekka Point, the fireworks factory s now back in use under name of Farrugia
Bros. (User, 11/07)

Walk 24, page 115: On Alternative walk 2, the ascent (not acent) is 525ft). + Copy of letter sent by user to the Malta Tourist Authority, 12/07: "I have recently returned from my fourth holiday on the island of Gozo. We have always enjoyed walking on this lovely island, with its warm and welcoming people. One of our favourite walks is from Santa Lucija or Xlendi, past the Roman lake, down through the limestone quarries, and up the wied to Qawra and Dwejra . The fact that this route is mentioned in several guides indicates how popular it is. On this occasion, we were horrified to discover that the path up from the wied has been blocked by numerous piles of black plastic strips, rendering it impassable for walkers, who are compelled to walk on the terraced fields alongside the path. Responsible walkers hate doing this, but have no choice. Vegetation is now growing up on the path between the piles of plastic, causing further obstruction. Would it be possible for someone to ensure that this rubbish is removed, and a beautiful walk reinstated ?" The reply was: "Thank you for drawing our attention to the matter highlighted in your email. This is to advise you that your message is being forwarded to the MTA Tourism Zone Officer responsible for Gozo and to the Ministry of Gozo for due attention." We would appreciate any further news (Sunflower) + We started up the cliff at Xlendi and the walk was fine until we crossed the wied. As reported the path as shown in picture page 118 is now blocked and marked Private Property. We too felt we had no choice to go back so continued through the field alongside. Finding the next path to Qawra was also difficult because of quarrying in the area. (User, 5/08)

Walk 26: Page 126: At the 1h 55m point, the footpath became unclear shortly after leaving the road. We never found the TANK or the STONE IRRIGATION CHANNEL, and became entangled in terraces and dense vegetation. We did find a way through, but re-survey of this section would be useful... Page 127: The Ggantija temple might once have been accessible from a point 'on your left in another five minutes', but that no longer appears to be the case. The map is also incorrect in this respect. There is now a ticket office on the opposite (west) side of the Ggantija site. Having passed the POND and turned right into a road (Triq Parsott) 'in five minutes', turn left down Triq John Otto Bayer, left into Triq L Imqades, and left again into the temple site [street names from Google maps]... As stated on page 123, this is a relatively arduous walk. Ggantija is reached towards the end of the walk and probably late in the day; it is not the best time to see the temple. A significant entry fee must also be paid. We made a separate visit to this unique prehistoric site. (User, 4/09)

SUGGESTED ADDITIONAL TOWN WALK
LIJA-SAN ANTON GARDEN-BALZAN-LIJA
Distance: 3mi/4.8km; 1h 45min
Grade: easy walking, with plenty of shade in summer
Equipment: comfortable walking shoes, sun hat, water
How to get there and get back: BUS ­ all routes to Mosta, Bugibba and Mellieha from Valletta or vice versa ­ there are bus stops in both directions near the roundabout on the Birkirkara-Mosta road at the junction with the dual carriageway to Msida (Birkirkara by-pass)

Short walk: Lija - San Anton Garden (1.8mi/2.9km; 1h 15min; easy). To return take BUS 40 from the Garden to Valletta.

Alternative walk: Lija - San Anton Garden - Attard (2.5mi/4km; 1h 30min; easy) Follow the main walk to the Garden. After visiting the Garden turn right (Triq Birkirkara) passing the main parking area for the Garden. Proceed straight ahead and in just under 8min Triq Valletta leads to Triq il-Kbira and Attard Church. The restored Parish Centre is well worth a visit and the delightful Saracino's Café nearby oozes with local charm. To return BUS 80, 81in the direction of Valletta or Rabat are only a short walk away on the main road which is partly a one-way system in Attard (Triq l-Mdina for Valletta; Triq Iz-Zaghfran for Rabat).

These walks are best done at the weekend when traffic levels are lighter

This ramble offers an opportunity to explore part of the district known as the Three Villages (Attard, Balzan and Lija) which are old well-established residential areas where small palaces (palazzo) set in private gardens, fine terraced houses and magnificent parish churches are the major features of the townscape. There are however, many smaller features to study such as chapels, statues or perhaps just the name plates on many of the houses that highlight the range of professions represented in these communities. Begin by walking up the broad avenue (Vjal It-Trasfigurazzjoni) to Lija Church (8min). Go to the right and narrow streets beckon which are much more typical of the area. The walking route is as follows: Triq Knisja ­ Triq il-Forn ­ left then right but still Triq il-Forn passing the German Embassy and in under 100 yds/m come to a small chapel (15min) at the junction of two streets. The left-hand street (Triq il-Kbira) is your return route. Bear right along Triq Sant' Andrija which is initially narrow and flanked by alleys known as Sqaq. Gradually older buildings give way to more modern suburbs. After 5min (20min) come to a junction and go straight ahead into Triq Massioniliam Debono. A fine old country house called Il-Barumbara, with a walled garden lies on your right just beyond this junction. After 4min (24min) bear left into Triq Guzeppi Portelli ESPRET TA L'ESPLUSSIVI 1927-1987 which returns to an older area flanked by high walls and gardens (28min). Turn right into Triq Sant' Anton and in 2min (30min) take the next left into Triq Lord Strickland ­ a brief detour further along Triq Sant' Anton is worthwhile to see some magnificent detached villas and a fine terrace.
Triq Lord Strickland parallels the west wall of San Anton Garden. Turn left at the foot of the street (32min). Pass the first entry ­ this leads to the Presidential Palace (not open to the public) ­ instead take the second entrance into the Gardens which were developed by Grandmaster Antoine de Paule in the early seventeenth century. (33min) Formal walks flanked with citrus, ornamental trees and several ponds make this a delightful retreat on a hot sunny day. In January, the orange and lemon trees are laden with fruit. You should allow 45min to explore the Garden. Leaving the gardens, turn left passing the Melita Gardens restaurant and take Triq Idmejda towards the neighbouring community of Balzan. In 2 min (1h 20min), where the street narrows pass the Good Shepherd Convent on your right. On the left at this point are several villas behind high railings and there is some welcome shade. In another 1min (1h 21min) reach Balzan's large Pjazza which is a junction for many side streets. Pause for a moment to enjoy the timeless atmosphere that has changed little over the years, except for the addition of a very modern HSBC Bank branch.
Bear left into Triq il-Kbira and pass the parish church and the St Gabriel Band Club housed in the magnificent Villa Balzan (1h 23min). Your way is along narrow streets that are one way for traffic [in the direction towards you]. In about 2min (1h 25min), pass a small chapel and statue and almost immediately after ignore the right turn into Triq Robert Mifsud Bonnici. There are a number of attractive houses at this point, many with traditional balconies. Local government offices and the Three Villages Bar are reached in a further 2min (1h 27min). Triq il-Kbira now turns right at this point ­ follow it for a further 2 min (1h 29min) and reach the small chapel at the junction with Triq Sant' Andrija, the 15min point of your outward route. Retrace your steps to the main road, reached at about the 1h 45min mark, where bus stops in either the direction of Valletta or Mosta are close by.

BUS, HELICOPTER AND FERRY TIMETABLES

The ferry service from Malta to Gozo can be very congested between 9am and 10.30am due to the number of day trippers. It is best to try to catch the 08.15 service or wait until after 10.30. Most day-trippers return to Malta on services leaving Gozo between 16.00 and 17.00, which are also very busy. (Author, 6/04)

COMINO BOAT SERVICES (passenger only)
p 133: Royal Cruises (www.welcome.to/comino) telephone 9940-6529 or 2155 3092 operate a ferry service from Marfa Jetty (visited on Walk 4 p 49) to the Blue Lagoon. There are six or seven daily departures, dependent on the season. A printed timetable is available from the boat operator. (Author, 5/04)