Sunflower Books: Landscapes of MALTA, GOZO & COMINO: WALKS AND CAR TOURS

Malta, Gozo & Comino, 5th edition (2007); Updated 28/08/11

(To visit the web page for this book on our main site, click here )

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) on Malta and Gozo given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

Picnic 26e: A user suggested that in summer you can get to IR-RAMLA by bus. The author comments: This is BUS 42, with an infrequent summer service only [THE SERVICE IS LISTED IN THE TIMETABLES ON p133]. BUT with just 4 buses on Sundays/Public Holidays and 5 on other days between 15 June and 15 September I have not advertised this service. There is no shade and minimal facilities at Ir-Ramla. I am reluctant to encourage Landscapers to use this service and then have to wait hours for the next bus in high summer temperatures or if the weather changed suddenly as it can do in September when the first rains arrive . If you are in doubt just look at the photo on page 33.

Walk 2: Suggested extension: Instead of returning to Valletta by bus, you could take a water taxi from Vittoriosa (near the Freedom Monument) across the Grand Harbour, landing near the Victoria Gate, to complete an absolutely superb visit. NB: Fort St Angelo currently closed for renovations. (User, 5/07) + Fort St Angelo remains closed 1h. Instead of retracing your steps back to Freedom Monument, only go back over the bridge as far as the new apartment block [St Angelo Mansions Block 1] at 1h 2min and take the steel steps between it and the adjacent building to a street above and behind the waterfront, turn left and in 30yds/m turn right and go up a further flight of steps passing an electricity sub-station to reach the end of Triq il-Palazz L-Antik Tal-Gvernatur. This street once had a high level link to Fort St Angelo which has been severed as part of the re-developments taking place - it is now a deadend. Proceed along the street for no more than 100yds/m and take the first left [1h 5min] and follow the bastions initially on Triq il-Habs L-Antik and then Triq Emmanuel Attard Bezzina (Spizjar u Politiku 1921-1988) and at 1h 8min Triq il-Miratur joins from your right. Follow the walking notes on page 41. Reduce subsequent walking timing points by 5 min... Exploring some of the streets off Triq Hilda Tabone is highly recommended - for example divert left along Triq it-Tramuntana passing the Norman House on your left - note the magnificent window on the first floor and turn right along Triq il-Magjjistral where the Auberge d'Angleterre on the left is the main point of interest - add 5 min for this diversion - you could walk the distance in 2 min but the ambience and architectural quality on offer here deserves a gentle stroll! At the end of the walk there is reconstruction work affecting the Posta Ta Franza [Post of France] and Triq il-Mina L-Kibra just beyond the Posta. During working hours you will need to divert right at Triq il-Vittmi tal-Porvlista 18 ta'Lulju 1806 just before reaching Posta Ta Franza. On the evening of 25 March 2011 after work for the day had finished, access through the scaffolding on Triq il-Mina L-Kibra was possible via a protective tunnel made of wood planks. (Author, 3/11)

Walk 3: There is a spelling mistake on the map on page 44: it should read Triq Il-Kbira

Walk 4: In April, very aggressive hunter encountered at Qammieh Point necessitating curtailment of walk back down past the Red Tower (see also Walk 5). (User, 5/07) + There is a new pole barrier just beyond the entrance to the Mellieha Bay Hotel to prevent access to unauthorised vehicles (not people) reaching the rear of the hotel. After 50 min you will need to walk on the ridge road for the entire distance to the Madonna Statue - the tree plantation programme has been successful and trees now obstruct the former coastal path after 55 min. The Adventure Campsite is now the Malta Campsite and from here a diversion to Ahrax Point is no longer recommended as a new telecommunications mast surrounded by a fence have been constructed. A security cabin and CCTV monitoring of the site are located near the Malta Campsite. Private signs also prevent access to the road leading to the White Tower. An extension to the Ramla Bay Resort is under construction adjacent the walking route to the left (landward) side of the complex - there were no difficulties using the lane in March 2011. Landscapers should note that it is not possible to walk round the right hand (seaward) side of the complex - a swimming pool blocks the foreshore. (Author, 3/11)

Walk 5: The Red Tower is open to the public with a small entrance fee on the following dates:
May-Sept: Mon-Thur 10.00-19.00, Fri-Sat 10.00-16.00, Sun 10.00-13.00
Oct-Apr: Mon-Sat 10.00-16.00, Sun 10.00-13.00. + There have been reports of Landscapers having difficulty accessing the steps and path down from the ridge at around the 45min mark. On the outward journey to Qammieh after about 20 min walking look for a honey-coloured wall supporting a lay by on the minor ridge road. The book suggests 15 min to this point which is rather tight timing on a warm day - add 5 min to all subsequent timings except 1h which still stands. The path you take is just east [Red Tower side] of the lay by - 20yds/m walking on path leads to steep steps and then a steep loose-surfaced path that tumbles down the slope to meet a track where you turn left for Ic-Cumnija. (Author, 3/11)

Walk 6: Please make it clear that the Ghadira police station is inland, behind the bus stop. We were expecting it to be on the main road, and totally missed it. (User, 3/09)

Walk 7: Pages 56 and 57: From Mgiebah Bay, the recommended diversion can be extended eastwards along the coast as far as Blata I-Bajda. There is a good path nearly all the way, giving excellent coastal views. The CLAY SLOPES need to be climbed close to Blata I-Bajda (little difficulty), before descending them again below Fort Campbell. This route avoids the fort, although it can easily be reached from the coast path if desired. This we did, but found it difficult to find a way out of the fort because of the high perimeter wall. Page 59, alternative end: The text could be clarified by referring to the clearly visible stone steps up the cliff at the far (south) end of the beach. The path is not 'on your right': it goes straight up from the beach and soon reaches the steps. (User, 4/09) Author's comment: This alternative route involves steep slopes, walking on the blue clay and a section very close to the shore. Walking boots, walking poles and settled favourable weather are all required for this demanding alternative which I would not recommend.

Walk 8: On reaching the hamlet of L'Imbordin (2h 20min) proceed to the last house called Antonia [a pink colour] and look for a track on your right which initially leads through bamboo. In 1min, it becomes a trail between stone walls and in another 1 min you pass a room cut into the rock face. 100yds/m further on reach a small chapel and 2 statues. At 2h 25min the track twists downhill right and then left and acquires a concrete surface to become a minor road passing a succession of houses on the lower hillside above the Pwales Valley. At around 2h 28min come to a junction with farm tracks, turn right on to a wider road and then left in 60yds/m at a small Water Services depot. In another 5 min, reach the St Paul's Bay-Mellieha road where there are bus stops in both directions about 75yds/m on the left , near the Porto del Sol guest house (2h 35 min). (Author, 3/11)

Walk 10: Please amend the top of page 68 to read "Continue downhill at the left bend and cross the bridge". (User, 3/09) + The start of the walk was at the St Andrew's bus terminus. Today only service 675 leaves from here (Triq Arnhem) to the new hospital and bus stops for all other routes in both directions lie some 75-100yds/m on the main road towards St Julians. Until 2 July, bus 64 will take you to a stop at the junction of Triq Ibrag and Triq Tal-Franciz near the now closed Halland Hotel, a saving of about 10 min walking time. (Author, 3/11)

Walk 11, page 71: A small matter, and probably incompetence on our part, but we could not find the "lane off to the right" after leaving L'Iskorvit/ (User, 1/09) + Short walk 11-1: The section of the walk from the centre of Tas-Santi is difficult to follow some 5 min east of Tas-Santi. Instead proceed through Tas-Santi in the direction of Mgarr for a further 5 min walking and after passing a shelter on your left, 50yds/m a road from Fomm-ir-Rih [new route of Walk 12; see below] and in further 50yds/m at a prickly pear hedge turn right - in 10 min at a pillar turn left then right almost immediately and reach Bingemma hamlet where you turn at a shrine. You are now on the Mgarr-Bingemma Gap road. Adds 10-12 min to overallwalking time. (Author, 3/11) + Walk 11- Walk 12 link: Since walk 12 will no no longer pass the lower end of this link, please disregard it. (Author, 3/11) + At Nadur Tower (15min) bear right downhill along a minor road which leads to a farmhouse. Immediately after passing the farm ignore a track downhill and instead follow a path on your left on top of the Victoria Lines and reach Bingemma Fort at around the 30 min-mark. Reduce all later times by 5min. (Author, 3/11)

Walk 12: Despite a sign prohibiting motorbikes/all terrain bikes at the farm at the neck of Le Pellegrin, this is being ignored. We were very closely passed by 7 scrambler bikes in the narrow rocky defile skirting the cliff face. Further on, where the steep descent changes from rocky to earthen, the bikes have cut ruts 40+ cm deep. This is dangerous if there has been rain in the past 72 hours. You certainly need good walking boots and walking sticks here. (User, 1/09) + Completing the walk via Gnejna Bay is now unsafe due to damage of the track on the clay section of the descent and should not be attempted in any weather conditions. To complete this walk follow the notes to Fomm ir-Rih Bay and at the farmhouse on your right turn inland on a minor road which winds through farming country to the Tas-Santi-Mgarr road [20 min walking]. Turn left [Walk 11 follows this route] until a crossroads is reached [walk 11 goes straight on here] and turn right and in 10 min reach Mgarr. (Author, 3/11) + Walk 11- Walk 12 link: Since walk 12 will no no longer pass the lower end of this link, please disregard it. (Author, 3/11) + Walkers please note that around the 2h 25min mark the Alcazar Guest House is closed and there are no refreshment opportunities until Mgarr. (Author, 3/11)

Walk 13: We had no trouble finding the viaduct to the Dwerja Lines, but walking on the wall is now out of the question, as it is heavily overgrown. However the wide path below the wall is easy. In heavy rain, we never found the 'fort complex' mentioned on page 80 (lines 9-10) - we found ourselves at a sign indicating the end of the Dwerja Lines and beginning of the Victoria Lines. We followed the road and ended up back at Bingemma Gap. (User, 3/09)

Walk 14: In April, there was a no entry sign page 85 "To avoid this obstacle ...." (User, 5/07) + After the Pulvich Explosives Industry factory at 1h 24min cross a track coming up from the undercliff on your left and in 10yds/m take a path on your right which in 20yds/m meets a track. Turn left on this track and pass a shooter's hut on your left. The track leads to the left hand side of a field that was reclaimed some years ago by dumping builder's rubble on the perimeter and soil transported from building sites. Follow a path along the left-hand side of the field. Beyond the field (2h) ignore the beginnings of a track on your right, and instead continue straight on around the cliff tops over rough ground towards farm buildings that mark the end of a minor round coming in from the direction of Dingli on your right. Turn right... (Author, 3/11)

Walk 15: After the 35min-point, where the instruction reads "In a few yards the track swings away to your left: now take a path on the right bank of the watercourse..." Two points here. The instruction is correct in that the path as you look at it is to the right of the watercourse, but "on the right bank" is ambiguous when you cannot see the path: does this mean the right bank of the watercourse, remembering that it is flowing towards you, which would mean the left bank as you view it? lt would be better stated "on the right of the watercourse as it flows towards you (i.e. its true left bank)". The reason we say this is that when we were there (5 February) it was heavily overgrown, and we needed a local smallholder to show us the path: it was invisible because of the overhanging bamboos and high rushes. The region had had a lot of rain, and the path was also very muddy and slippery until you clamber up the bank at its end: fortunately we were wearing hiking boots - otherwise it would have been extremely difficult. Future walkers should be warned if there have been recent rains. Otherwise this walk was straightforward. (User, 3/09) + Regarding the bamboo problem in the wied after the 35 minute mark: bamboo encroachment from the watercourse on to the path was a serious problem at the beginning of March 2011, affecting a 300 yd/m-long stretch. The first 100yd/m had been cleared by 24 March to reveal a 3-4 yd/m wide path. The bamboo has been cut and stacked at the beginning of the path. The remaining 200yd/m has been cleared to a narrow path wide enough for a person to walk with care and complete this section of the walk. (Author, 3/11)

Walk 17, page 95: If you reach Wied iz-Zurrieq after the last bus to Valletta has left dont walk uphill on the busy road to Zurrieq. Instead, look for the minor road to Qrendi that lies straight ahead when coming up the hill from the fishing village. This a quiet road leading through pleasant countryside and takes you to Misrah Il-Maqluba, where the minor road to Qrendi from Hagar Qim merges from your left. Turn right (signposted bus terminus) and follow Triq San Mattew through a small square (Misrah San Mattew) and on the north-east side of the square into Triq Il-Parrocca which leads to the church. Buses leave for Valletta in front of the church. Last bus to Valletta is 20.30 until 2 July. Walking time is 15-20 minutes to Qrendi about half that to Zurrieq bus terminus. (Author, 3/11)

Walk 20: The write-up describes two car scrapyards, the second of which has a
'chained dog'. But on 29 March we encountered a real concern at the first scrapyard. This one possesses approx 10 dogs, all running free, most were barking, some aggressively. We are experienced and reasonably hardy walkers but this experience was stressful. On approaching the site the dogs ran to meet us, leaving little chance of retreat and the possibility of a dog attack felt real. Perhaps a re-route just after 'Keyhole' might be advisable. (User, 4/08) + I didn't see a name for "Triq Il-Kavallerizza", which curves up and to the right at the end of the harbour. Asked in the first (and only) shop and the owner said he'd never heard of it! Luckily, a woman 50 yards further up confirmed I was in fact in the correct road... "Keyhole" was undergoing repairs and the "curious old wrought iron balconies" were not to be seen. After passing Keyhole, turning left in front of it (not mentioned in notes), I then mistakenly bore right at the next turn. This brings you out quite a bit higher up the Birzebbuga road but does avoid the scrap yards (and, thus, the dogs) mentioned by the previous person to update this walk. (User, 1/09) + We can understand why other users of the guide (see above) had difficulty in finding the Triq Il-Kavallerizza - we didn't spot any street name either. But the map (if not the instructions) made it clear that it was at the extremity of Marsaxlokk, and the very heipful photo of The Kavallerizza established where we were. The instructions then say "almost immediately beyond the house, tum right (signposted ZEJTUN)". There is now no sign, and we spent some time expioring the adjacent streets for some direction. You are in the middle of a suburban estate. So we had to go back and follow the coast road - as the guide says, not very attractive - to get to Birzebbuga. This point needs new instructions. (User, 3/09) + The following mostly reflect comments by other users: Comment from User 1/09: Triq Il-Kavallerizza does have a street name-plate: it is on the side of the first building immediately round the 90° corner at the far (south) end of the waterfront... Comment from User 3/09: The house named The Kavallerizza is set back from the road on the right. It is easily missed because the building is now partly engulfed by new development. Do not turn right up the track which passes immediately in front of The Kavallerizza. Instead, continue up the road from Marsaxlokk for less than 50m and turn right where there is a prominent signpost to ZETJUN... Further comments from User 1/09: There are no 'old wrought iron balconies' at Keyhole, which was being refurbished during out visit in 4/09. We strongly endorse the remarks by User 1/09 about dangerous unchained dogs at the first scrapyard (is there a second?). The track is also reduced to less than 1m wide by scrap vehicles, making the risk of a dog attack all the greater. This route is unpleasant and entirely unsuitable. The alternative, very soon after bearing left past Keyhole, is simply to turn right instead of left at the T junction. This track leads directly to the Birzebuga road but at a point further north than indicated in the book. The reference to the Roman villa site is unclear. It cannot be reached from the Ghar Dalan cave, as the text implies. (User, 4/09) + Triq Il-Kavallerizza has a nameplate on the first house on your right as you begin to walk up this street. Walkers should not attempt to walk left on a minor road after passing the house referred to as Keyhole in the 5th edition - the house has been refurbished in recent years. Instead, after passing to the left of the house, at the junction which comes up just after the house garden is passed they should turn RIGHT on a minor road which leads to the Birzebugga main road. This is a busy road with no pavement. To complete the next section of the walk it is strongly recommended to catch a bus [until and including 2 July 2011 service 11] the 3 or so stops to the first stop on the seafront at Birzebbuga. You can then follow signs to Borg in Nadur via Triq A M Galea and resume the walk. (Author, 3/11)

Walk 21: "beware of chained dogs" - we encountered unchained dogs just before the chained ones - fortunately their owner was around. (5/07) + The book warns of chained dogs a little way from St. Peter's pool; what it does not warn is that a pack of loose dogs will meet you as you climb out of the bay. A new path was clearly being created very near the cliff edge as people try to avoid them. One of these dogs bit me on the thigh. A property above the bay, by the road I assume we should join, warns of dogs however when they come to meet you they become unavoidable. I have also forwarded a similar message to the Malta tourist office, who, ironicly, have a large walking promotion in the current Ramblers Assoc. magazine. (User, 3/10) + You should not attempt to walk on the cliffs beyond the 1h 12min mark - ie through the rock-strewn gap between some bushes. Coastal erosion at a point a few minutes later puts the path too close to the edge of the cliffs for safety. Instead turn right on to a track that leads towards the Tas-Silg Battery and the ridge road from Marsaxlokk to Fort Delimara. On reaching the ridge road turn left to walk outward and back on the minor road to Fort Delimara [return walking time abouit 50 min]. If you do not wish to go to the fort turn right at Tas-Silg to complete the walk to Marsaxlokk. It is strongly recommended that walkers do NOT try to visit any points in the walk timed betweeen 1h 12min and 2h using alternative routes. There is a further coastal rockfall in the vicinity of Peter's Pool and two of the properties in this southern section have numerous dogs, some chained, others not, which pose a potential danger to walkers. The Alternative Walk described on page 104 should not be attempted. The Jerma Palace Hotel in Marsascala has closed and is currently a derelict building. (Author, 3/11)

Walk 22: At the 45min-point, you pass by the chapel shown overleaf (not 'below'). (Sunflower)

ALL GOZO WALKS
In March 2011, passengers boarded and disembarked ferries at Cirkewwa, Malta via the car deck.
The port of Mgarr in Gozo occupies a cramped site at the foot of a steep hill - it may look picturesque from the deck of the ferry as you approach but it is can be dangerous to pedestrians setting foot in Gozo for the first time. At Mgarr you disembark and board the ferry from a side passenger door directly to/from the new terminal building. It is VERY IMPORTANT to note this arrangement carefully. Disembarking via the car deck at Mgarr is not allowed, but it is possible that you could make this mistake, not be stopped by ferry employees, find yourself amongst vehicle traffic, get disorrientated and put yourself in danger. In addition, at Mgarr, three lanes of traffic descend the final approaches towards the terminal - the two right hand lanes are traffic for the ferry; the left hand lane is used by cars dropping off foot passengers. Beware of fast moving traffic heading downhill for the terminal, especially cars rushing to drop off foot passengers.
Bus 25 for Victoria (until 2 July) leaves from outside the terminal building - walks 23 and 24. My advice to walkers on Walk 25 is to cross to the harbour side of the main road near the terminal before heading uphill to cross over the main road to Triq Lourdes at Velson's Winery. Walk 26 cross over to the harbour side and keep the Gleneagles Bar on your left-hand side. (Author, 3/11)

Walk 23: After Hekka Point, the fireworks factory is now back in use under name of Farrugia
Bros. (User, 11/07)

Walk 24, page 115: On Alternative walk 2, the ascent (not acent) is 525ft). + Copy of letter sent by user to the Malta Tourist Authority, 12/07: "I have recently returned from my fourth holiday on the island of Gozo. We have always enjoyed walking on this lovely island, with its warm and welcoming people. One of our favourite walks is from Santa Lucija or Xlendi, past the Roman lake, down through the limestone quarries, and up the wied to Qawra and Dwejra . The fact that this route is mentioned in several guides indicates how popular it is. On this occasion, we were horrified to discover that the path up from the wied has been blocked by numerous piles of black plastic strips, rendering it impassable for walkers, who are compelled to walk on the terraced fields alongside the path. Responsible walkers hate doing this, but have no choice. Vegetation is now growing up on the path between the piles of plastic, causing further obstruction. Would it be possible for someone to ensure that this rubbish is removed, and a beautiful walk reinstated ?" The reply was: "Thank you for drawing our attention to the matter highlighted in your email. This is to advise you that your message is being forwarded to the MTA Tourism Zone Officer responsible for Gozo and to the Ministry of Gozo for due attention." We would appreciate any further news (Sunflower) + We started up the cliff at Xlendi and the walk was fine until we crossed the wied. As reported the path as shown in picture page 118 is now blocked and marked Private Property. We too felt we had no choice to go back so continued through the field alongside. Finding the next path to Qawra was also difficult because of quarrying in the area. (User, 5/08) + p118 Sadly, the footpath shown on the photograph has fallen into neglect. Stones have fallen from the retaining walls and plant growth has occurred blocking the path. The way round this is simple: the farmer who cultivates the field on the left does not crop it to the boundary with the old path and instead leaves a strip on the edge of the field which has become the new footpath. (Author, 3/11)

Walk 26: Page 126: At the 1h 55m point, the footpath became unclear shortly after leaving the road. We never found the TANK or the STONE IRRIGATION CHANNEL, and became entangled in terraces and dense vegetation. We did find a way through, but re-survey of this section would be useful... Page 127: The Ggantija temple might once have been accessible from a point 'on your left in another five minutes', but that no longer appears to be the case. The map is also incorrect in this respect. There is now a ticket office on the opposite (west) side of the Ggantija site. Having passed the POND and turned right into a road (Triq Parsott) 'in five minutes', turn left down Triq John Otto Bayer, left into Triq L Imqades, and left again into the temple site [street names from Google maps]... As stated on page 123, this is a relatively arduous walk. Ggantija is reached towards the end of the walk and probably late in the day; it is not the best time to see the temple. A significant entry fee must also be paid. We made a separate visit to this unique prehistoric site. (User, 4/09) + A report has been made that the irrigation tank could be found to the right as you ascend the road from Dahlet Qorrot. The track and irrigation tank are there at about 8min up from the bay. Another report that the Ggantija site is inaccessible by turning left after ascending past the pond and reaching the outskirts of Xaghra is not the case. You can reach the site by turning left or right. (Author, 3/11)

SUGGESTED ADDITIONAL TOWN WALK
LIJA-SAN ANTON GARDEN-BALZAN-LIJA
Distance: 3mi/4.8km; 1h 45min
Grade: easy walking, with plenty of shade in summer
Equipment: comfortable walking shoes, sun hat, water
How to get there and get back: BUS ­ all routes to Mosta, Bugibba and Mellieha from Valletta or vice versa ­ there are bus stops in both directions near the roundabout on the Birkirkara-Mosta road at the junction with the dual carriageway to Msida (Birkirkara by-pass)

Short walk: Lija - San Anton Garden (1.8mi/2.9km; 1h 15min; easy). To return take BUS 40 from the Garden to Valletta.

Alternative walk: Lija - San Anton Garden - Attard (2.5mi/4km; 1h 30min; easy) Follow the main walk to the Garden. After visiting the Garden turn right (Triq Birkirkara) passing the main parking area for the Garden. Proceed straight ahead and in just under 8min Triq Valletta leads to Triq il-Kbira and Attard Church. The restored Parish Centre is well worth a visit and the delightful Saracino's Café nearby oozes with local charm. To return BUS 80, 81in the direction of Valletta or Rabat are only a short walk away on the main road which is partly a one-way system in Attard (Triq l-Mdina for Valletta; Triq Iz-Zaghfran for Rabat).

These walks are best done at the weekend when traffic levels are lighter

This ramble offers an opportunity to explore part of the district known as the Three Villages (Attard, Balzan and Lija) which are old well-established residential areas where small palaces (palazzo) set in private gardens, fine terraced houses and magnificent parish churches are the major features of the townscape. There are however, many smaller features to study such as chapels, statues or perhaps just the name plates on many of the houses that highlight the range of professions represented in these communities. Begin by walking up the broad avenue (Vjal It-Trasfigurazzjoni) to Lija Church (8min). Go to the right and narrow streets beckon which are much more typical of the area. The walking route is as follows: Triq Knisja ­ Triq il-Forn ­ left then right but still Triq il-Forn passing the German Embassy and in under 100 yds/m come to a small chapel (15min) at the junction of two streets. The left-hand street (Triq il-Kbira) is your return route. Bear right along Triq Sant' Andrija which is initially narrow and flanked by alleys known as Sqaq. Gradually older buildings give way to more modern suburbs. After 5min (20min) come to a junction and go straight ahead into Triq Massioniliam Debono. A fine old country house called Il-Barumbara, with a walled garden lies on your right just beyond this junction. After 4min (24min) bear left into Triq Guzeppi Portelli ESPRET TA L'ESPLUSSIVI 1927-1987 which returns to an older area flanked by high walls and gardens (28min). Turn right into Triq Sant' Anton and in 2min (30min) take the next left into Triq Lord Strickland ­ a brief detour further along Triq Sant' Anton is worthwhile to see some magnificent detached villas and a fine terrace.
Triq Lord Strickland parallels the west wall of San Anton Garden. Turn left at the foot of the street (32min). Pass the first entry ­ this leads to the Presidential Palace (not open to the public) ­ instead take the second entrance into the Gardens which were developed by Grandmaster Antoine de Paule in the early seventeenth century. (33min) Formal walks flanked with citrus, ornamental trees and several ponds make this a delightful retreat on a hot sunny day. In January, the orange and lemon trees are laden with fruit. You should allow 45min to explore the Garden. Leaving the gardens, turn left passing the Melita Gardens restaurant and take Triq Idmejda towards the neighbouring community of Balzan. In 2 min (1h 20min), where the street narrows pass the Good Shepherd Convent on your right. On the left at this point are several villas behind high railings and there is some welcome shade. In another 1min (1h 21min) reach Balzan's large Pjazza which is a junction for many side streets. Pause for a moment to enjoy the timeless atmosphere that has changed little over the years, except for the addition of a very modern HSBC Bank branch.
Bear left into Triq il-Kbira and pass the parish church and the St Gabriel Band Club housed in the magnificent Villa Balzan (1h 23min). Your way is along narrow streets that are one way for traffic [in the direction towards you]. In about 2min (1h 25min), pass a small chapel and statue and almost immediately after ignore the right turn into Triq Robert Mifsud Bonnici. There are a number of attractive houses at this point, many with traditional balconies. Local government offices and the Three Villages Bar are reached in a further 2min (1h 27min). Triq il-Kbira now turns right at this point ­ follow it for a further 2 min (1h 29min) and reach the small chapel at the junction with Triq Sant' Andrija, the 15min point of your outward route. Retrace your steps to the main road, reached at about the 1h 45min mark, where bus stops in either the direction of Valletta or Mosta are close by.

TRANSPORT DETAILS (FROM THE AUTHOR, 1/11)

COMINO HOTEL FERRY

Depart Comino Depart Gozo
-   06.15
08.10 08.30
10.30 11.05
14.30 15.00
15.30 15.45
17.30 17.50
21.15 (if required)  22.00
24.00 -

Depart Comino Depart Malta
06.40 (via Gozo) 07.30
09.40 10.00
16.15 16.45
18.05 18.30

Arriving and departing hotel guests are given preference on the Comino Hotel Boat.
Comino Hotel Tel: 21 529 821

UNITED COMINO FERRIES

Ferry service departing from Marfa (opposite Riviera Hotel) and Cirkewwa (near Gozo Ferry berth)
United Comino Ferries is a joint venture between Midas Ferries and Royal Comino Ferries.
Address: 'White Haven' Cordina Street, Ghajnsielem, Gozo Tel: 9940 6529; 9940 4142.

Departs Marfa opposite Riviera Hotel [departs Cirkewwa 10 minutes later]
10.00 and 11.00
Departs Comino (Blue Lagoon)
13..00 and 15.00
(Author, 3/11)

MALTA-GOZO SEAPLANE
Operated by Harbour Air (Malta) Ltd
Admin Office: Upper Vault 2, Pinto Wharf, Valletta Waterfront, Floriana FRN 1913
Tel: 2122 8302/9 Valleta Sea Passenger Terminal
Tel: 2155 0602 Mgarr, Gozo
www.harbourairmalta.com

Depart Valletta Sea Passenger Terminal Depart Mgarr Harbour Pontoon F
09.30 10.10
13.00 13.40
15.00 15.30

NB The helicopter service between Malta International Airport and the Gozo heliport has been discontinued. The heliport is closed and has a forlorn appearance. The only flights between Malta and Gozo are from Mgarr Harbour to/from Valletta Cruise Ship terminal and are operated using a seaplane by Harbour Air. (Author, 3/11)

MALTA-GOZO FERRY SERVICE
Address change: Gozo Channel Company, Channel House, Mgarr Harbour, Mgarr, Gozo Tel 2210 9000 www.gozochannel.com.

The ferry service operates a 24 hour service between Malta (Cirkewwa) and Gozo (Mgarr) at a frequency of every 45 minutes between 6.00 and 18.00; outwith these times the frequency varies from 1 hour to 1 hour 30 minutes.

BUS SERVICES

Walk 2 Bus 2 no longer operates

Walk 12 short walk 2; also page 132 bus information
Bus 80 has been re-numbered 85
2 buses daily Monday-Friday Depart Rabat [Saqqajja] 06.15 and at 17.15 return from Bahrija 15 min later
On Saturdays buses Depart Rabat 07.15; 13.00; 1730. No Sunday service.

INTRODUCTION OF NEW BUS SYSTEM ON 3 JULY 2011
The existing operation of owner-operated buses in Malta and Gozo will cease on 2 July. From the following day, buses will be operated by Arriva, the route network will change completely and new timetables will be introduced. The intention is to replace the old buses with a new/refurbished fleet. A comprehensive bus service will be introduced in Gozo. The new service has begun; see www.arriva.com.mt. This gives full details of timetables, route maps and fare structure. Non residents pay a higher tariff than locals but the cost is still modest if purchasing a day or weekly ticket. The summer timetable and maps shown on the website run until the middle of October and then a winter schedule will come into force. (Author, 8/11)