Sunflower Books: Landscapes of the PICOS DE EUROPA: WALKS AND CAR TOURS
Picos de Europa, 4th ed (2007); updated 01/09/2009
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Updates for walks and car tours (drives) in the Picos de Europa given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)
Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).
General: Most
of the sources mentioned in the book are now possibly polluted,
as they are marked "not garanteed as drinking water ".
Take ample water with you! + We recently visited the Picos
de Europa for the first time and found your book to be an invaluable
guide to walking in this beautiful area. As with your guides in
other areas, it proved to be an essential help in finding the
best walks available with relatively moderate ascents in the region
and in integrating them with the local transport possibilities.
None of the other guides we looked at were remotely comparable
in this respect and most were written in Spanish which is difficult
for people not fluent in that language. The maps included in the
book are exceptionally accurate and we would like to congratulate
Teresa Farino on a well written and interesting production. We
include some Update information below. Note that we have used
your guides in several other countries (Canaries, Madeira and
Azores) and have in each case found them to similarly invaluable
in making the type of holiday we enjoy possible. (User, 7/08)
+ I found your guide invaluable for both day to day walks and
also preparatory reading to gain a better understanding of the
area, and certainly I have not found any comparable guide. I also
bought the guide published in 2006 by the Parque Nacional (in
Spanish only), which comes with two 1 :25,000 maps. I chose
this because of the map coverage. The alternative Andrados maps
do not cover the Potes area, where I had decided to stay. I found
these maps accurate and very useful for the walks I did, providing
additional information on paths near to and around those included
in the Sunflower guide. They enabled me to vary and extend the
Sunflowcr walks. However the paper quality is poor. The Parque
Nacional guide describes 32 walks of .varying length, but in the
event I did not take it with me largely because the walks in it
- although fully described - are difficult to Iocate within the
area unless the reader has a knowledge of the locations of the
small villages and hamlets used as start points. The guide lacks
an index map. I chose Potes as my base because it is accessible
by public transport and is near to several of the Sunflower walks.
I arrived by bus from Santander and found bus times were as published
on thc Santantier area transport website www.santandereabus.com.
In Potes tourist oflice I bought a small guide (in Spanish, O.2
euros) which describes four local walk up to 8.8km in length all
based on Potes. It includes an ascent to the cross on Monte Viorna
(1095m) which overlooks thc town. (User, 7/09)
Transport: Unfortunately what limited public transport
is available has become even more restricted. In particular the
Palomera buses from Potes to Fuete De (walks 5 and 6) now only
operate from July 1st to August 31st, the Alsa bus from Potes
to Leon (walk 5)now only operates on Fridays and Sundays and the
Alsa bus from Arenas to Puente Poncebos (walks 7 and 8) only operates
in August. Also there are no taxis in La Hermida (walk 2), although
there is one in Panes. There are several taxis in Potes and Arenas.
For anyone travelling from Potes to Arenas or vice versa by bus,
note that the buses for the two services do not use the same stops
- Palomera use the bar Comportu at the centre of town while Alsa
only stop on the other side of the river, outside a bar on the
right turning immediately across the bridge (neither stop is marked).
The Palomera service does not make up time at Panes and will not
stop if it is early (it may be as much as 1/2 hour early) unless
there is someone to embark or disembark. There is a good connection
Potes - Arenas in summer but the return journey involves over
two hours wait. Below are the latest timetables we collected.
(User, 7/08) + I arrived by bus from Santander and found
bus times were as published on thc Santantier area transport website
www.santandereabus.com. The limited public transport was
certainly a factor in determining which walks to do from Potes,
and for information on routes and times I mainly used this website.
I found this accurate, and buses were within a few minutes of
the timetable. Tickets for Palomera buses are no longer sold in
advance at Santander bus station but bought from the driver. Tickets
for Alsa and other companies can be bought in advance at the bus
station... There were taxis available in Potes in Calle Doctor
Encinas, opposite the bridge to the instituto, most of
each day. Both drivers I had used cards showing standard fares
to a large number of local destinations. (User, 07/09)
Santander - Potes Journey
Time around 2hr 25 min
Winter 2007/8
Mon-Fri 07:00, 10:00, 17:45
Sat, Sun, P.H. 08:30, 17:45
>
Summer 2008
Mon-Fri 10:30, 17:00, 19:00
Sat 10:30, 17:00
Sun, P.H. 10:30, 15:15
Potes - Santander Journey
Time around 2hr 25 min
Winter 2007/8
Mon-Fri 10:15, 17:00
Sat, Sun, P.H. 11:00, 15:15
>
Summer 2008
Mon-Fri 07:00, 10:00, 17:30
Sat, Sun, P.H. 10:00, 17:30
Potes - Fuente De Journey
time around 40 min
Summer 2008
Mon-Fri 8:30, 13:00, (20:00 14/7 to 14/8)
Sat, Sun, P.H. 13:00
Fuente De - Potes Journey
time around 40 min
Summer 2008
Mon-Fri 8:30, 09:15, (20:45 14/7 to 14/8)
Sat, Sun, P.H. 17:00
Potes - Leon Journey
time around 3 hr
Summer 2008
Fri and Sun 11:00
Leon-Potes Journey
time around 3 hr
Summer 2008
Fri and Sun 08:30
Panes - Arenas Journey
Time around 30 mins
Summer 2008
Mon-Fri 8:10, 15:25
Sat, Sun 17:10
Arenas - Panes Journey
Time around 30 mins
Summer 2008
Mon-Fri 08:45 ( actually leaves after 09:00), 18:35
Sat,Sun 12:35
Taxi numbers:
Potes: +34-659662771 (Jose speaks English)
Panes: +34-659056489 (or 985414023)
Arenas: +34-636360273, +34-985346487, +34-625201900, +34-616961202
Taxi costs do not seem to be as low as indicated in the book - for long distances on a good road they may be as low as 1 euro per kilometre, but otherwise they may increase to double that. Bus costs are incredibly cheap - for instance 7 euros from Santander to Potes
Maps: The yellow-covered maps mentioned in the introduction are good but as stated do not cover a large enough area. There are new ones produced by the national park to the same scale with much improved coverage - both sides of the paper are used. However the accuracy of path definition is poor and so is the paper quality. Unfortunately their price is high as a book is included. (User, 7/08)
Walk 1: At 30 minutes, the square mentioned is not a village square but an area filled with building materials in front of a small building. If you go past the bridge on the left, you have gone too far... The main problem with the walk description is at the summit. The viewpoint is not the col itself but at the col you have to turn right and climb steeply uphill for 100 feet or so to a peak where there is a seat with the stunning view. To continue the walk you have then to first return downhill to the col. The book does mention the right turn near the top but this is easily confused with an earlier fork in the path. Another couple we met were similarly confused... This return path has some red arrow markings... At the 2hr 40 min point a rather fierce dog persuaded us to avoid this turn but to continue into the village where there is a new (and very large) sign indicating the route. (User, 7/08) + As noted by a previous correspondent the "large square" at Frama is just a rough stony clearing with rubble and some sort of elevated platform, but the correct path was fairly obvious, being the one climbing steeply and facing the walker, as descnbed. Near El Convento I took the left fork as described, but ended up with a dead end path that led only to the ruin. I could not find any onward route. 'There is an information board there but no map and, having read it , l retraced my steps and continued on the previous path which took me to the Invernal de Tolibes and the rest of the way. The 1:25000 map was useful here. (User, 7/09) + Tudes does now have a bar, which an English couple opened in January 2009; it's called La Taberna del Ingles, a cheerful village tavern decorated with murals including portraits of the villagers. Here hikers can stop for a drink and a rest, have a snack, and play a game of darts or pool!" (The owners, 8/09)
Walk 2:
There is no taxi now in La Hermida, so you either walk up the
road to Beges (an extra 300 metres of ascent and 5 kilometres!)
or take a taxi from Potes or perhaps bus and then phone for a
cheaper taxi from Panes if you know their number (the tourist
info at Potes didn't)... The concrete now extends from the start
of the trail up to above the Invernal...
At the end of the walk the book mentions the bus stop for going
to La Hermida but if you are going to Potes it is more convenient
to know where the stop on the other side is - in the narrow gorge
these may be in different places. (User, 7/08)
Walk 3: A source with good drinking water can be found at Tresviso ( on your road to the bar). After Invernales de Prias you reach a picnic place with table and a new concrete road up to the church. (User, 10/07)
Walk 4: I
did this in less than ideal conditions, with the cloud base at
900m ( not apparent from Potes) and so I did not see the views.
I took a taxi to Aniezo near Somaniezo for the start . There were
three points of uncertainty on this waik. The first at the chapel
of Nuestra Señora de La Luz. By chance I met two British
'walkers there, also unsure of the route. There is in fact a helpful
'wooden waymark sign near the chapel, next to a spring, pointing
the GR-71, with distances to Luriezo and Potes. Walk 4 follows
GR-71 as far as Luriezo, so this sign is a very good positive
identification of the route.
The second uncertainty arose at the left hand fork (2h30min) -
it turned out that the correct route is indeed the left-hand fork,
going downhill, but the absence of red and while paint and a wire
fence across the path about 1-2 km further on led me to doubt
this and I retraced my steps bac to the junction. A short walk
up the right-hand fork led to a clear crossed-out sign and this
confirmed that the route (and GR-71) follows the left-hand fork
as described. Over this section, there is a lack of paint waymarking
and so the walker cannot rely on red-and-white markings for route
confirmation. The fence was easily moved to pass it. The third
uncetainty arose about 5 mins after taking the lett-hand fork,
the path passing a circular concrete structure (new) on a flatter
area where it follows a zigzag route without any waymarks. It
is difficult to describe the correct route here, which I eventually
found by discovering there were no alternative paths leading anywhere!
The route continues in the same general direction, downhill, after
zigzagging past the structure. At Luriezo I left the route of
Walk 4 and decided to continue on the GR71 all the way back to
Potes - without difficulty. (User, 7/09)
Walk 5: Note that the buses only run on Fridays and Sundays...On
the alternative walk there is a wooden unsigned barrier across
the path at the 50 minute point. It is easily surmountable and
does not appear to indicate any problem ahead - it is probably
to stop cattle wandering... Note that the bus stop for the return
to Potes appears to be by the Cosgaya turning off the main road
- the other stop is used on the way to Fuente De. (User, 7/08)
Walk 6:
Teleferico charges in 2008 were 8 euros one-way and 14 euros return.
(User, 7/08) + The lack of a bus service to Fuente De outside
of July and August meant that I did not do Walk 6, but an afternoon
visit to Espinama was worthwhile to explore this village and walk
a shon stretch of GR203. On weekdays the first bus from Potes
to Espinama is at 13.00 and is essentially a school bus, and this
limits time available. There is a return from Espinama at 16.00.
(User, 7/09)
Walk 7: Although the walk after Culiembro undulates, there is an overall ascent of 300 feet from here to Cain... The heat during the afternoon for the return journey on a sunny summer's day can be very great as the ravine walls radiate and reflect heat. (User, 7/08)
Walk 8: The
cost of the funicular in 2008 was 14 euros single, 18 euros return.
This is in a tunnel through the hillside and makes less impact
on the external environment than either a road or a teleferico...
The path to Castillo is now much better made and easier to find
than
indicated... If you turn left at the end of Castillo instead of
right downhill as described in the book, a short ascent along
an good path leads you into a beautiful upland valley pasture
with limestone blocks and pavements where the crowds around Bulnes
do not penetrate. Cattle and goat bells are the only sounds and
vultures glide overhead. This is an excellent lunch spot and a
deviation worth mentioning in the book... We felt that the path
was fairly vertiginous for some way below the concrete chute as
well as above it. However there is little erosion of the path
and it is generally level so that it is safer than some of those
in friable terrain. (User, 7/08) + Last month we did the walk
to Bulnes from Puente Poncebos. Then we returned to Puente Poncebos
and we thought we would try the "zigzag walk to the mirodor
in Camarmena" - the path the main walk passes after
the 5min-point. The sign 'Bar/Comidas' is no longer there. However
we walked up the hill and found most of the paths were blocked
by fallen stones. It looked if it was caused by landslide recently
so it was too dangerous to continue. It was so slippery to go
back down the hill, we were really frightened as we thought we
might fall over the cliff. So we think the words 'A couple of
minutes later, go past a path on the right which zigzags steeply
up to the mirador in Camarmena (it is signposted 'Bar/Comidas)'
- ought to be omitted for walkers' safety and to advise them to
use the road to Camarmena if they want to visit the 'mirador'.
(User, 7/09)
Walk 9: 3 Km after Sotres there is a new car park on the right at Jito de Escarandi, starting point for the walk. The walk is now signed white/yellow and PR PRN PE28 . Due to roadworks, the limestone block at Vega del Tonco is missing (20Min-point). At the 3h30min point, the left turn looks like the main track. Be sure to turn RIGHT: after about 100m you find the white/yellow mark and writing on the left indicating "Refugio de Andara 1/2h", confirming that you are on the right route. You also can see the new car park below on the right. The locals prefer to do the walk in the opposite direction by starting at the car park but taking the road up to Caseton de Andarra with starts from the corner of the car park ( Sotres side); 2h up to the refugio. (User, 10/07)
New walk: Although we realise that there is only space in the book for a limited number of walks, the omission of the popular and easy walk from Brez to the Canal de Arredondas is surprising. We only found out about this walk by chance. The Fuente De bus gives public transport access although it is even easier if a moderately priced taxi from Potes to Brez is used for the outward journey, and afterwards you walk downhill on the track from Brez through Lon to pick up the bus near Baro. The walk itself is well-signed and circular (two hours) and is very interesting and varied with impressive views into the mountains - even more impressive in overcast weather. A diversion can be made some way along the path into the 'canal' itself. (User, 7/08) + I did this walk. It is well signed as PR-27) and gives magnificent views of the nearby peaks and distant mountains. Althougth short , this is delightful. Having completed it I repeated 'the loop as far as a sign indicating the path to Lon, which I followed. This soon passes through a forest area where forks in the path are not signed, but the correct route is generally the lower, right-hand path. After a few hundred metres this led to a broader gravel path going downhill beside the river to Lom, where I enjoyed tea at the hotel and picked up an information leaflet describing walks from the hotel, including a route onwards (fairly well waymarkod yellow and white) through San Pelayo, Beares and Santo Toribio which I foIlowed back to Potes. (User, 7/09)