Sunflower Books: Landscapes of SORRENTO, AMALFI COAST & CAPRI: WALKS AND CAR TOURS
Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast, 4th ed (January 2007 ); updated 08/08/08
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Updates for the walks and car tours (drives) given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)
Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).
Maps: I
found some excellent walking maps in the Bar Internazionale in
Positano (1:10,000) , with all the routes. There are 3 maps showing
the Costiera Amalfitana (Positano and around, Amalfi and around,
and the area east of Maiori). They cost 5 ¤ each, publisher
Cart&Guide (www.carteguide.com). Unfortunately their web site
doesn't mention these maps, but they DO exist and the routes are
very well shown. (User, 1/07)
Buses:
On the Sorrento to Amalfi route, at peak times in high season
buses can become very crowded and consequently some advice might
help (which applies to this route only - all the others should
be OK):
- It pays to get to the bus in good time if you are taking the
bus from its starting point.
- If the bus is full - which means as many standing as sitting!
- it might not stop to pick people up from intermediate stops,
so it is advisable to have a plan up your sleeve in case the bus
sails past when you are waiting at a stop.
- A full bus also hinders getting the bus driver to drop you off
a specific stop.
- The bus sometimes runs up to 15 minutes late when full, which
might make connecting with the Monte Pertuso bus a problem. You
could walk up to Monte Pertuso in 45min from the Bar Internazionale
in Positano, where many people get off, by taking the start of
Walk segment 24b to reach the Monte Pertuso road, and then turn
right to follow this up to the village. The road is gently graded
and carries little traffic. If you are staying in or near Amalfi,
the best way by far to connect with the Monte Pertuso bus is to
take a nine o'clock (or thereabouts) boat to Positano to catch
the 10.20 bus. (Author, 1/07) + Bus tickets: In March 2008
SITA amended the new ticketing system for tourists introduced
in 2007. If the journey will last 45 minutes the ticket will
cost 2 Euros, up to 90 minutes 3 Euros and
the daily passes from 5 to 6 Euros, while a ticket
of 3 days costs 15 Euros. It is reported the system
applies only from April to October. The normal E1/2/3/4 tickets
are available only to local residents or to all in winter. (Author
04/08)
Ravello Town Plan (page 37)
The key is missing and should read:
1. Villa Rufolo
2. SITA bus stop
3. Duomo
4. Tourist Office
5. Post Office
6. Car park
(Note: please ignore the "floating" words Walk Segment
3) (Author, 3/07)
Segment 12a, page 52, line 5: In addition to the plaque 13, there is now a prominent new sign "Sentiero Giustino Fortunato" pointing the way you wish to go. It forms part of an intended new long distance path. (User 5/07)
Segment 13: Walk planning tip: those wanting an extended walk in the hills flanking the coast could combine this segment with Segment 34 Pogerola to San Lazzaro. However, instead of descending into Pogerola to finish Segment 13 so as to pick up Segment 34 from its start, you can cut across from one to the other staying in the hills. To do this: at the path fork (page 53, last line) take the right fork. This path now takes a gradually ascending route, keeping the slope up on your right. Look for intermittent CAI marks, and at path forks tend to take the upper (right-hand) choice. After about 1km/0.6mi you come to the spring Acquolella (page 83) at the foot of the rocky gully that divides Monte Molignano on the left from the main mountainside on the right. Continue on Segment 34. (Author 1/07)
Segment 14: Walk
planning tip: For an alternative route to Ravello to that's rather
less strenuous than Segment 3, if less scenic, take the first
part of Segment 14a as far as the start of the path going down
to the stream (line 9). Stay on the narrow road up to the main
Ravello road. Continue round the bend and immediately turn left
up the Pontone road. Where this bends left continue ahead by path
up to the main road again; turn left. Shortly take steps up right,
cross the main road and rejoin it higher up. Turn left. Look again
for a path up to the right. Ascend for 100m/yds. Then turn right
for more steps which lead up to the main piazza in Ravello. (Author
1/07)
Segments 19, 20, 22: Walk planning hint: If you want to
walk up to inspect the big hole in the mountainside above Monte
Pertuso: From the left-hand end of the main square (with bar and
restaurant), take the Via Campola which ascends by steps straight
up the hillside until it is almost level with the hole. Here turn
left along the back of a terrace to pick up a narrow, sometimes
steep, path to the hole. At one junction turn right (painted sign
"buco"). Return same way. Round trip 40 minutes. (Author
1/07)
Segment 20b: When nearing Monte Pertuso and wanting to connect to Segment 22a (Caserma Forestale) without going the final 400m into Monte Pertuso: look for steps going up right by a bus stop and iron railings, with a sharp left-hand bend in the road about 150m ahead. Ascend these steps (p66 line 2). (Author, 1/07)
Segment 26a, line 4: The sign to Nocelle and San Domenico has fallen off (i.e. the top sign in the picture on page 71). (User 5/07)
Segment 46: The yellow dots in the upper part of this walk have been overpainted in red (User 10/07)
Segment 49. Arch no longer present beside Hotel Dania. Turn right just before hotel. A ceramic plaque points to Puolo. Sign to Marina di Puolo rusty and only just visible. (User, 9/07)
Segment 52b, line 8: The entrance to the continuation of Via Monte Arso is reported by a user as being overgrown. (Author, 09/07)
Segment 53b, line 9: ....100m/yds further on, go left up an ashphalt track. (User, 09/07)
Segment 56a, line 14: The sign "Sorrento for foot passengers" has been removed. The path is now newly paved in concrete alongside a concrete wall on the left. (User, 09/07)
Segment 65a: A user repored difficulty finding the way from the grassy promontory (Page 119, line 14 of the segment). The CAI marks head south west, i.e. obliquely towards the coast, and in the direction of a lone island out to sea. After 50m/yds you turn right down a gully, the path becomeing very steep and rocky for a stretch. Note: the promontory is the Malacocca viewpoint referred to in the introduction. (Author March 07)
Walk planning tip from Anacapri: There is a very good path up to the top of Mt Solaro.
From Piazza Victoria, take the path past boutiques towrds Axel
Munthe's villa. After maybe 150m/yds look on the right for Via
Monte Solaro. It goes parallel with the chairlift and enables
the energetic to go up separately from those who use the chair
lift, and meet at the top. (User, 1/07)
Here are three extra walks to consider:
From Amalfi: Il Castello
A splendid variant from the Minuta
(Scala road hairpin bend junction) is to visit a small ruined
castle high up the hillside directly above. It's a splendid walk
and provides fantastic views. You climb 450m/ 1400ft on good paths.
Allow 3h for the round trip, excluding stops. Do this route only
in good weather.
The easiest way of reaching the hairpin bend is by taking the
bus to Scala and walking up the quiet road from there. Either
take the steep steps up from the hairpin bend for 300m/yds
to a prominent 4-way path junction, or (an easier
option) continue up the road for 600m/0.35mi to the first right-hand
bend in Campidoglio. Here take the steps up left (CAI sign 57)
which level out and reach the junction after 400m/yds from the
road. From the junction ascend steps in zig-zags to a building
with walled front. Cross below this to the right to reach a good
mule track which starts with a few zig-zags, and then slants up
to the right up the hillside. Follow the track, rough in places
but well-used, for 500m/yds to where it turns left around the
mountain. Here turn very sharp left (CAI 55) to join a gently-rising
wide path between alder and old chestnut trees. After 300m/yds
where this path becomes less distinct and turns right around the
mountain again, strike up sharp right to a grove of trees. Already
the castle is visible higher up the ridge some 200m/yds beyond
the trees. The path up to the castle rises from the right hand
edge of the trees. The views from the castle are wonderful, particularly
from both ends of the wall. Be very careful at the left (looking
up) end, as the cliff falls away sheer. There is nice grass to
sit on for a picnic. To return to Minuta - walk down below the
grove of trees; descend half right to pick up the good path; walk
left along this to the path junction where the main path bends
round ridge; turn sharp right here onto the main path; descend
this path to the house; take the steps below and beyond the house
which lead down to Minuta hairpin bend.
From Sorrento: Ascent of Monte San Michele
It is not difficult to climb the highest
of the Lattari Mountains at 1444m/4738ft, the peak visible from
Sorrento to the east. By taking the cable car from Castellamare
di Stabia (connecting at the Circumvesuviana station) you are
whisked up to Monte Faito at 1102m/ 3615ft, and from there well-built
and easily-followed paths lead straight to the summit of San Michele.
Although the route lies mostly in woodland there are fabulous
views at many places on the ascent. You descend by the way you
went up. There is little risk of losing the way, but these instructions
must be followed carefully as a simple mistake can lead you into
difficult territory. The main risk comes from the effects of deteriorating
weather, as at that height temperatures can drop quickly, possibly
aggravated by wind and/or rain. Thus the climb must be attempted
only in settled weather, and you should carry weatherproof clothing.
The cable car does not operate November to mid-April - check operating
times at the AST Sorrento.
Time: 2h ascent/1h40min descent
Grade: moderate, with an ascent of 500m/1650ft
On exiting from the cable car building turn left to take the steps
and landing above the exit to gain access to the ridge-top path.
Follow this ascending gradually, after 200m/yds passing to the
left of a radio station. Follow a good track along the crest of
the ridge for 20min, until a second radio station blocks the way.
Pass to the right of it, onto a narrow tarmac road. Stay on this
until it reaches the ridge top again by small level grassy area.
From here take the rough path ahead up the ridge to the chapel
of San Michele and a third radio station, which are now visible
(50min). From the chapel, descend the road in zigzags to
the second right-hand bend. Go ahead here to a flat gravelly area;
at its far left end descend left (by an old bath with waterpipe)
for about 200m/yds by a rough stepped path, to a well-built mule
track going right (ie, with the slope up to your right). At first
descend gradually for about 200m/yds; then the gradual ascent
starts. From here you start seeing red/ white CAI paint signs.
When you meet a rough rocky patch with great bulging overhang
to the right, look for the zigzag path up ahead, cut in the rock.
After the rocky patch the path comes out onto a level rock ledge
with handrails (and fabulous views left of the square peak towering
above on the other side of the deep valley which is our destination).
200m/yds after the handrails you come to imposing cliffs above
to the right; in a further 300m/yds you come to a Tjunction. Turn
sharp right; a red/white CAI V-turn is painted on a rock at the
junction (1h30min). (On leaving the junction, look back
to memorise it for the return.) Ascend the path in about four
wide zigzags to a second three-way junction (1h40min);
the two routes ahead are marked 'Conocchia' to the right and 'Molare'
(i.e. "molar" describing the shape of the peak) to the
left. Go left. After 200m/yds the path zigzags and transfers to
the other (south) side of the mountain. Continue to a small col
between the main mountain and an outlying knoll to the right (1h50min).
The final rough stepped path leads left from here to the summit
(2h).
Although you descend the same way, here are some reminders: Go down to the col (10min), then the junction marked Conocchia/Molare (15min). (From here, if you have time you might like to explore a little of the Connochia route, even as far as its summit with cross - returning to this junction). Descend about four zigzags to the junction marked with a CAI red/white V-turn: go left here (25min). Pass cliff/ handrails/rocky patch until the path starts to ascend gently. Ascend left up to the gravelly area (50min) - or to the road, if you have overshot and have come into an open area, with the chapel of San Michele visible up ahead. From the hairpin bend a quicker way back avoiding the climb to the chapel of San Michele goes as follows: descend the road (left) to a scout building on the right; 200m/yds after this take the narrow tarmac road on the right, which ascends gradually to radio mast number two. Pass this on the left to regain the ridge with its track down to the cable car.
On Capri: The Walk of the Bourbon Forts
A new walk has been developed
that follows the western coast of Capri, visiting a number of
old restored forts. The instructions for making this walk can
be taken from this web site: http://www.giovis.com/fortini.htm
Numerous ceramic notices give the history of the forts and
also of the surrounding countryside, and half way along there
is a handy snack bar. Altogether a splendid walk which will figure
in future editions of the book.
Allow up to five hours for this walk, from/return to Anacapri.
Assuming a south to north route, the walk
may be approached from Anacapri by taking dirctions from Segment
72 as far as line 12. On reaching the motor road, turn right and
follow it for half a mile/0.8 km to go round a left hand curve.
Where this straightens out look on the right for the "concrete
minor road down to the sea" referred to in the web site directions.
Having completed the walk, reaching the motor road up from the
Grotta Azzura, turn right to ascend this to the fourth hair-pin
bend. Go round this and immediately take the first minor road
on the left. Then, after 100m/yds, take the first right and from
here all the upward options at junctions to reach the centre of
Anacapri.