Sunflower Books: Landscapes of SORRENTO, AMALFI COAST & CAPRI: WALKS AND CAR TOURS
Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast, 6th ed (December 2010 ); updated 02/01/2012
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Updates for the walks and car tours (drives) given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)
Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).
Buses: On
the Sorrento to Amalfi route, at peak times between April and
October buses can become very crowded and consequently some advice
might help (which applies to this route only - all the others
should be OK):
- It pays to get to the bus in good time if you are taking the
bus from its starting point.
- If the bus is full - which means as many standing as sitting!
- it might not stop to pick people up from intermediate stops,
so it is advisable to have a plan up your sleeve in case the bus
sails past when you are waiting at a stop.
- A full bus also hinders getting the bus driver to drop you off
a specific stop.
- The bus sometimes runs up to 15 minutes late when full, which
might make connecting with the Monte Pertuso bus a problem. You
could walk up to Monte Pertuso in 45min from the Bar Internazionale
in Positano, where many people get off, by taking the start of
Walk segment 24b to reach the Monte Pertuso road, and then turn
right to follow this up to the village. The road is gently graded
and carries little traffic. If you are staying in or near Amalfi,
the best way by far to connect with the Monte Pertuso bus is to
take a nine o'clock (or thereabouts) ferry to Positano to catch
the 10.20 bus. (Author, 1/07) + Page 10. How to get to your
resort Last sentence: Coming out of the station, go right
to MacDonalds; you will find the stop just outside at the start
of the side street. (Author, 7/11)
Ferries: These
are much quicker and less crowded than the buses, if somewhat
more expensive. Always enquire locally about services as the web
sites are not always up-to-date (especially the Metro del Mare
web site quoted on page 133). For other Amalfi coast ferries go
to:
http://www.amalficoastweb.com/amalfi/english/amalfi_coast_ferries.html
(Author 10/10)
Segment 3: The steps across the cliff face above the church of Santa Maria Maddalena have been blocked off for a stretch by the authorities awaiting repair. You can, in time-honoured Italian fashion, make your own way past the barriers. Or, for detours: Segment 3a: Retrace your steps to the church, turn left down to and along the road. Walk along this to the Ravello turn-off (300m), and take this for 200m, round the first hairpin, and then take the steps on the left. These lead up to rejoin the main route after 125m going round a small chapel on the way. Segment 3b: Go back up the steps and take the first alley right. This leads down to a road. Turn right and, at the main coast road turn right again. After 300m you can rejoin the walk at the church. (Author 10/10)
Segment 13: Walk planning tip: those wanting an extended walk in the hills flanking the coast could combine this segment with Segment 34 Pogerola to San Lazzaro. However, instead of descending into Pogerola to finish Segment 13 so as to pick up Segment 34 from its start, you can cut across from one to the other staying in the hills. To do this: at the prominent path fork (page 54, first line) take the right fork. This path now takes a gradually ascending route, keeping the slope up on your right. Look for intermittent CAI marks, and at path forks tend to take the upper (right-hand) choice. After about 1km/0.6mi you come to a spring Acquolella at the foot of the rocky gully that divides Monte Molignano on the left from the main mountainside on the right. Ascend this gully; at its top reach a broad path that climbs to the next corner of the mountain, where it curves right. Shortly Segment 34 joins from the left. Continue on Segment 34. (Author 10/10)
Segment 12a: As the path approaches Pontone and is obviously newly upgraded it meets the end of a road. Take the path leading up to the left.Shortly you reach the three-way junction four lines from the end.
Segment 12b: Shortly after the three-way junction in Pontone you come to the end og the road. Just continue ahead along the newly upgraded stretch of path. (Author 10/10)
Segment 14: Not far below the houses of Pontone a short stretch of bamboo has crowded over the path, but you can still squeeze through OK. (Author 10/10) + Walk planning tip: For an alternative route to Ravello to that's rather less strenuous than Segment 3, if less scenic, take the first part of Segment 14a as far as the start of the path going down to the stream (line 9). Stay on the narrow road up to the main Ravello road. Continue round the bend and immediately turn left up the Pontone road. Where this bends left continue ahead by path up to the main road again; turn left. Shortly take steps up right, cross the main road and rejoin it higher up. Turn left. Look again for a path up to the right. Ascend for 100m/yds. Then turn right for more steps which lead up to the main piazza in Ravello. (Author 1/07)
Segment 20b: When nearing Monte Pertuso and wanting to connect to Segment 22a (Caserma Forestale) without going the final 400m into Monte Pertuso: look for steps going up right by a bus stop and iron railings, with a sharp left-hand bend in the road about 150m ahead. Ascend these steps (p66 line 2). (Author, 1/07)
Segment 34: Option
2 (bottom of page 83), route via Convento di Cospito. This fascinating
and exhilarating route that descends to the remote ruins of a
convent and continues by climbing a rocky cleft requiring some
scrambling and a head for heights. Add 30 mins walking time and
125m ascent.
From the sharp right bend, take the level path going half left.
Follow this for 400m/yds until it reaches the foot of a cliff
and the view ahead opens. Follow a path going obliquely right
down the slope, heading for the convent now visible 500m/yds down/ahead.
From the convent take the path with handrail to the foot of the
cliff 150m away, and turn right. The path hugs the foot of the
cliffs and ascends steeply to a rocky cleft. Climb this on rough
steps aided by wooden poles fixed to the rock. At the top of the
cleft the path continues round to the left, and follows the top
rim of the cliffs for 200m/yds, until it turns right, ascends
a few more steps, becomes gravel and, after 200m/yds more, joins
a broad stone path. Turn left down to San Lazzaro. (Author 10/10)
Segment 50a: It's Station of the Cross number six. Also, line 7: "Descend right for 50m/yds to the next bend, and take the earthen path on the left." This path now has "Private Property" signs which, although probably accurate, can be ignored by walkers. (User, 07/11)
Segment 56: This
segment has been blocked owing to a landslip at about half way
(Segment 56a at line 16; Segment 56b at line 15).
In dry weather, unless you are very unsure of your footing on
uneven ground, you will probably find you can clamber over the
broken stretch. Just carry on past the warning barrier. In the
wet however it would be most unpleasant and slippery, requiring
a detour. To do this:
Segment 56a: Line 16 just after "where you turn right
down an old paved path". As an alternative, from line 10
use "signed to Sorrento; an alternative route".
Segment 56b: Line 15 just after "after 250 m/yds this
road becomes a paved path". For a route round, do not "go
sharp left up Via Li Schizani"(line 14), instead continue
up the wide road a further 150m/yds, looking for an alley up left.
Follow this for 300m/yds to the main road. Turn left and follow
the main road for 300m/yds to a right hand bend. At the start
of this bend take the path down left and, after a few metres,
turn right "onto a concrete path which leads..." (line
18). (User, 11/11)
Segment 65b, line 20: Having contoured on terracing below the house and ascended to the top level, a well-trodden path has established itself which goes directly to the foot of the rugged hillside ahead, running parallel to the cliff edge about 100m/yds back from it. (Author 10/10)
Segment 66, Line 8: About half way up the "1.5 km" the path takes a right turn, still signed Villa Jovis.
Segmant 66: The way down to Villa Fersen: More precisely the path leaves opposite the Villa Jovis ticket office, by a sign. The path has a stout rustic handrail. This proves very useful after the path has rounded the lower rim of the Villa Jovis and starts a steep descent. This descent is exceedlingly rough and rocky, but the handrail is your lifesaver, letting you lower yourself easily. Entry to Villa Fersen (also called Villa Lysis) is free of charge. (Author 10/10)
Segment 72: The mini bus terminus for the Faro and Grotta Azzura buses lies at the next stop after Piazza Vittoria for buses coming up from Capri town. The snack bar half way along the walk itself is not to be relied on as it seems to open only when business is likely to be brisk. An additional feature of this walk that creates interest is a plethora of ceramic plaques along its length explaining flora, flora, geology and history. (Author 10/10)
Walk planning tip from Anacapri: There is a very good path up to the top of Mt Solaro. From Piazza Victoria, take the path past boutiques towrds Axel Munthe's villa. After maybe 150m/yds look on the right for Via Monte Solaro. It goes parallel with the chairlift and enables the energetic to go up separately from those who use the chair lift, and meet at the top. (User, 1/07)
Bus prices (page 133): SITA bus prices ('Unico Campania')are now: up to 45 minutes 2.40 euros; up to 90 minutes 3.60 euros; 24 hours 7.20 euros (Note: this is the ticket for either single or return journeys Amalfi/Sorrento)
Here are two extra walks to consider:
From Amalfi: Il Castello
A splendid variant from the Minuta
(Scala road hairpin bend junction) is to visit a small ruined
castle high up the hillside directly above. It's a splendid walk
and provides fantastic views. You climb 450m/ 1400ft on good paths.
Allow 3h for the round trip, excluding stops. Do this route only
in good weather.
The easiest way of reaching the hairpin bend is by taking the
bus to Scala and walking up the quiet road from there.
Either take the steep steps up from the hairpin bend for 300m/yds
to a prominent 4-way path junction, or (an easier option) continue
up the road for 600m/0.35mi to the first right-hand bend in Campidoglio.
Here take the steps up left (CAI sign 57) which level out and
reach the junction after 400m/yds from the road. From the junction
ascend steps in zig-zags to a building with walled front. Cross
below this to the right to reach a good mule track which starts
with a few zig-zags, and then slants up to the right up the hillside.
Follow the track, rough in places but well-used, for 500m/yds
to where it turns left around the mountain. Here turn very sharp
left (CAI 55) to join a gently-rising wide path between alder
and old chestnut trees. After 300m/yds where this path becomes
less distinct and turns right around the mountain again, strike
up sharp right to a grove of trees. Already the castle is visible
higher up the ridge some 200m/yds beyond the trees. The path up
to the castle rises from the right hand edge of the trees. The
views from the castle are wonderful, particularly from both ends
of the wall. Be very careful at the left (looking up) end, as
the cliff falls away sheer. There is nice grass to sit on for
a picnic. To return to Minuta - walk down below the grove of trees;
descend half right to pick up the good path; walk left along this
to the path junction where the main path bends round ridge; turn
sharp right here onto the main path; descend this path to the
house; take the steps below and beyond the house which lead down
to Minuta hairpin bend. (Author 10/10)
From Sorrento: Ascent of Monte San Michele
It is not difficult to climb the highest
of the Lattari Mountains at 1444m/4738ft, the peak visible from
Sorrento to the east. By taking the cable car from Castellamare
di Stabia (connecting at the Circumvesuviana station) you are
whisked up to Monte Faito at 1102m/ 3615ft, and from there well-built
and easily-followed paths lead straight to the summit of San Michele.
Although the route lies mostly in woodland there are fabulous
views at many places on the ascent. You descend by the way you
went up. There is little risk of losing the way, but these instructions
must be followed carefully as a simple mistake can lead you into
difficult territory. The main risk comes from the effects of deteriorating
weather, as at that height temperatures can drop quickly, possibly
aggravated by wind and/or rain. Thus the climb must be attempted
only in settled weather, and you should carry weatherproof clothing.
The cable car does not operate November to mid-April - check operating
times at the AST Sorrento.
Time: 2h ascent/1h40min descent Grade: moderate, with an ascent
of 500m/1650ft
On exiting from the cable car building turn left to take the steps
and landing above the exit to gain access to the ridge-top path.
Follow this ascending gradually, after 200m/yds passing to the
left of a radio station. Follow a good track along the crest of
the ridge for 20min, until a second radio station blocks the way.
Pass to the right of it, onto a narrow tarmac road. Stay on this
until it reaches the ridge top again by small level grassy area.
From here take the rough path ahead up the ridge to the chapel
of San Michele and a third radio station, which are now visible
(50min). From the chapel, descend the road in zigzags to the second
right-hand bend. Go ahead here to a flat gravelly area; from its
far left-hand end descend left for about 200m/yds by a rough stepped
path, to a well-built mule track going right (ie, with the slope
up to your right). At first descend gradually for about 200m/yds;
then the gradual ascent starts. From here you start seeing red/
white CAI paint signs. When you meet a rough rocky patch with
great bulging overhang to the right, look for the zigzag path
up ahead, cut in the rock. After the rocky patch the path comes
out onto a level rock ledge with handrails (and fabulous views
left of the square peak ("Molare" = molar) towering
above on the other side of the deep valley which is our destination).
200m/yds after the handrails you come to imposing cliffs above
to the right; in a further 300m/yds you come to a T-junction.
Turn sharp right; a red/white CAI V-turn is painted on a rock
at the junction (1h30min). (On leaving the junction, look back
to memorise it for the return.) Ascend the path in about four
wide zigzags to a second three-way junction (1h40min); the two
routes ahead are marked 'Conocchia' to the right and 'Molare'
(i.e. "molar" describing the shape of the peak) to the
left. Go left. After 200m/yds the path zigzags and transfers to
the other (south) side of the mountain. Continue to a small col
between the main mountain and an outlying knoll to the right (1h50min).
The final rough stepped path leads left from here to the summit
(2h).
Although you descend the same way, here are some reminders: Go down to the col (10min), then the junction marked Conocchia/Molare (15min). (From here, if you have time you might like to explore a little of the Connochia route, even as far as its summit with cross - returning to this junction). Descend about four zigzags to the junction marked with a CAI red/white V-turn which you memorized: go left here (25min). Pass cliff/ handrails/rocky patch until the path starts to ascend gently. Ascend left up to the gravelly area (50min) - or to the road, if you have overshot and have come into an open area, with the chapel of San Michele visible up ahead. From the hairpin bend a quicker way back avoiding the climb to the chapel of San Michele goes as follows: descend the road (left) to a scout building on the right; 200m/yds after this take the narrow tarmac road on the right, which ascends gradually to radio mast number two. Pass this on the left to regain the ridge with its track down to the cable car. (Author 10/10)