Sunflower Plus Series: TURKISH COAST: BODRUM TO MARMARIS

2nd edition (February 2009); updated 11/10/2011

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Updates given below supplement the information provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

Money - new series of notes: In 2009 a new series of banknotes was introduced to replace the "New Turkish Liras" described in the book. The new money is just called "Turkish Lira (Türk Lirasi)". It has exactly the same value.

Dolmus, Turunc, page 137: The Dolmus now only runs every 1 hour. If you are staying in Icmeler the Domus can be caught by the Market site, or at the top of the Old Village at FB Market/ Tommy's Bar. (User, 5/11)

Map of Bodrum, page64-65: Migros supermarket is indicated as yellow No. 6 in the key; in fact, on the map itself, it is No. 3 (and I can confirm that the location is correct, having shopped there frequently). (User, 10/11)

Walk 1: Found our way to Karabag, but from the mosque were very unsure of the route, as it didn't seem to tally with the description. There has been a lot of construction at Karabag. On the ground, the mosque was beyond (ie south of) the junction between the road from Akcaalan and the road down to Turgutreis, whereas your map shows it as just north of the junction. We couldn't find Yaka Sokak (many of the streets seem to be numbered rather than named). I wonder if the original mosque has been demolished and replaced by a new one in a slightly different location. (It was so hot that we cut our losses in the end and walked down to Turgutreis.) (User, 10/11)

Walk 2: There is new development afoot on the seaward side of Gumusluk (inland village). There was no sign of a PTT beside the mosque at the starting point (which has written on it Karakaya camii [mosque]). There is now a PTT right beside the other mosque halfway to Gumusluk resort. Where the entrance to road to the sarnic (cistern) is indicated, there is now a roundabout. On the positive side, pretty well all the streets in the area have brand new signposts indicating their names (though how long they will remain standing and pointing in the right direction is anybody's guess!) The road to the sarnic is called, not surprisingly, Sarnic Sok; where you fork left after 20m is called Samanlik Sok and where you fork right after 200m is called Degirmen (windmill) Sok. Where you "wind up the hillside to some housing", the track is a mixture of large rough cobbles, gravel and then concrete on the last steep section. Where you "go to the right of the houses", you will soon know if you are on the right track as, within 1 or 2 minutes, you will pass a white pump house immediately on your left... Returning to inland Gumusluk "you cross a streambed and a new softness...". True. Immediately after crossing the streambed the rough trail becomes a drivable earthen track... As a result of preparations for more development, after "passing a fountain in a large grassy area" , you will not obviously cross a streambed. You will, however, come to the "main track", being widened and soon, no doubt, asphalted. Here you turn LEFT back to the sarnic, not right With the infrastructure developments going on here, it is hard to tell if this is or is not a mistake in the original description. Very shortly, you pass a fountain on your left opposite a square water tank on the right. Some distance beyond this, there is now another fork where the widened track veers off right. You should fork up left onto the older track between newish walls. This was a very nice walk, which we did two and a half times, once in reverse. (User, 10/11)

Walk 3: In Geris itself, the 'track' was cobbled and the 'rough track' was too overgrown to follow. We just continued to the coast and headed back to Yalikavak that way. (User, 2008) + Have just returned from The Bodrum Peninsula and found the 'Bodrum to Marmaris' book really helpful. There is now (October 2009) a problem, however, with Walk 3. At the high point of the walk (1h40min) there is now a formidable barrier (stones and brushwood) across the track. We climbed it only to encounter a second barrier (wire netting) and then a third (stone and brushwood but even higher than the first). I don't think the landowner welcomes walkers! We tried to find an alternative route down to the valley floor but the noise of hunters' shotguns was intensifying, and we turned back the way we had come. We went back to Yalikavak the way we had come up and it still made a really worthwhile walk. (User, 10/09) + Regarding the comment of 10/09 concerning the high point of the walk (1hr 40mins). We have done this walk on 2 occasions and whilst we noticed that there are barriers across the path we suspect that these are not to deter walkers but to contain cattle. We just climbed over these barriers and continued as per the instructions. Further on the book mentions "at a junction of tracks be sure to turn right", this junction is not very well defined but there is a ruined building close by on the right and the correct path goes to the right of this building decending to the dry stream bed as referred to. The path up to Geris is then easy to follow. Finally i would add that the route down from Geris to Yalikavak is not as described in the book, but by continuing on the lane you can make your way back to Yalikavak (this is a slightly longer route). (User, 5/11) + Confusing start, since neither the Karay Yilmaz Is Merkezi nor the policlinic could be seen. At vehicle exit to Dolmus Station turn right then immediately right again. Continue ahead and find the belediye and facing it, turn right. This will bring you in about 100m to a junction, where Kayacik Caddesi is signposted... Keep your eyes peeled for the sarnic. It is a dingy grey colour and is partly obscured by a bank of earth and rubble... Page 89. Poetry somewhat impedes the practical description here. The "well with the date 2006" is essentially the same place as the "large grassy area"... An alternative description from Sandima onwards might read: Pass 2006 fountain and follow yellow painted sign on rock to Sanat Evi (Art House). Going round right-hand side of this one inhabited house, pick up metal pipe. This will appear intermittently as you stay close to the wall on your right. Eventually, you are channelled into a walled-in trail. We only did walk as far as 1hr 20min point. Fascinating deserted village. Great views from track at 1hr 20mins. (User, 10/11)

Walk 5: Unfortunately, we couldn't get started on this walk. We duly walked down from Cop Yolu, found where the banking dipped and saw the track running up at about 45 degrees to the main road towards some houses (as shown on map). However, at this point there was a new concrete track with a manned barrier on it leading to some housing development. It may be that the walk can be accessed in some other way. (User, 10/11)

Walk 6: We had no great difficulty following the first part of this walk, but a couple of points to mention. It looks as if a new village square/recreation space is being prepared at the entrance to the village before you reach the Ottoman fountain. At the T-junction 2 mins beyond the Ottoman fountain, there is a redbrick and stone fountain dated 2008. "When the track sweeps right to a farm building..." Yes, but the farm building is not that obvious - it is stone-coloured and set back some distance. NB We also did the final part of this walk, starting from the cement factory. Between the "housing develpment" and the cement factory is a more or less continuous industrial estate. We didn't see the lime kiln. This was a very pleasant and undemanding walk as far as 1hr 20min point. Interestingly, at two points in the village of Dagbelen we passed properties with carved marble sculptures in them. They look as if they are by the same sculptor who produced the work near the shopping arcade at the western end of Salmakis Bay, Bodrum. (User, 10/11)

Walk 8: At about 1 hour into the walk it refers to house number 28. We found this house and also house number 29 which is referred to on the map, you are then at a junction of paths. We tried walking in all directions from this point but could not find a way to continue without going through what appears to be private property. We finished up returning to house number 28 and turning left up to the main road. We then had to walk for approx 1 mile on the road until reaching Yaka. Whilst walking up the road we could see the line of the intended route and also found the WELL and PLANE TREE (referred to in the book) which is just off the main road (approx 100 yds down a track). But it appears that this route is lost due to not being used by the looks of it for some considerable time. (User, 11/09) + Lucky user of 11/09! We didn't have much success with this walk. There was no sign of the "ruined pillars" but we found the pump house with a disused quarry ahead. We found a dip across the streambed (which was merely a concreted drive to a private house). Otherwise, we could not match the description to the reality on the ground. After exploring a bit, we gave up. (User, 10/11)

Walk 9: I recommend taking the Dolmus serving specifically Konacik. Don't be alarmed if it continues on the main road past the Konacik Belediyesi initially, since it goes up to the Bitez turn-off, does a U-turn, turns at the Belediye and drops you by the "newer mosque". No problems as far as Pedesa, but a few comments on the description. "Past the dip, turn left" - you can't really miss this turn, since there is an island in the middle of the road and a brown sign saying "Pedesa 2k". The road is now asphalted right through to the end of the "hamlet of Konacik", and a proper pavement, complete with an avenue of pines, is being installed. We only did the walk as far as Pedesa - twice. See Walk 10 for some notes on Pedesa. (User, 10/11)

Walk 10: Some notes on the cultural information on Pedesa. There have, in fact, been some archaelogical excavations and a little restoration. There are information signboards dated 2007. There is a rough "otopark" (car park) and the track up to the site is negotiable by vehicles, though I was told by a site warden that there are no plans to tarmac it. The statement that "the only way to get there is on foot" is no longer true. There is also a visitor centre located in a restored farmhouse. It is hoped to open it next year, but there is already a very sturdy and shaded picnic table on site. (User, 10/11)

Walk 13 : Short walk 2, circular walk: We found the start of the walk and all was well until we were in the village of Sirinkoy and tried to find the left turn past a house with lemon trees. Nearly every house had lemon trees, so it was difficult to judge which was the correct turn left. However, eventually we thought we had the correct track and headed off, but it was obviously wrong as we didn't find the cluster of eucalyptus trees and the path into the pines. (We did manage to make our own walk and emerge back in the village). We would have found it useful if you could have put more information in, e.g. timings etc as you did at the start of the walk (12 mins to the bridge, once in Sirinkoy take a right hand fork some 3 minutes later). Other than these timings, there was nothing else until you were well into the walk, "on reaching a crossing of tracks on a saddle (1h50min). We never found this as we lost the walk. (User, 3/10)

Walk 14 : Beldibi circuit - Short walk Physcus. We followed the instructions to go past the car workshops and start the walk close to the "cluster of small pylons". However, that was as far as we got. Having spent 40 minutes trying to find the path along the rock face and up into the woodland we gave up. We thought we might be able to see the water pipe as a guide but no such luck. It may be that the path has disappeared due to all the building work which is going on. (User, 3/10)

Walk 15, alternative suggestion: If you walk along the road from Marmaris towards Turunc, you pass the market place. At the exit from the market (Turunc side) there is an arch. Just on the opposite side of the road is a green iron gate and behind it an electricity sub-station. You cross a stream 4 times; after the 4th crossing you come to a fork. This route is the route of Walk 15 (the orman yolu). If you go left here, you can follow Walk 15 back to Armutalan or take the shorter route to Arkutca and catch a dolmus.If you go left, you can follow Walk 15 to Siteler or go via Seyir Terasi to Armutalan. If you continue, after about 30-35min from starting out you come to a fork: If you go right you come to the highest peak between Marmaris and Içmeler, some 600m high. The route is a very steep and stony fire-break, which climbs straight up and then straight down. On the downward slope it's skiddy and needs care. After crossing about 5 peaks you come back to the route of Walk 15 some 600m south of the turn-off at the 'Kampyeri' signpost, and you can continue to Siteler. This is a beautiful but quite demanding walk for those based around Içmeler - only suitable for very fit walkers with boots, walking sticks and rucksacks. Nothing should be loose, since you have to go on all fours at times. (User, 2004) + After passing the fountain on 'Sinan Cad' the road is now tarmac-ed and developed, and we were unable to find a waymarked path/trail half a minute past a U bend by a dry steam bed. Looks like a house has been built by the U bend, and that the path might have been obliterated. Instead we chose to follow a clear track just after the fountain that made its way up the hill and eventually joined the forest track between Mamaris and Seyir Terasi (picnic spot on the alternative walk). Descending to the Siteler track (1h45 point on the main walk), we found an excellent (and only one discovered!) information board showing all the forest trails in the Amatulan Trekking area, and we chose to follow a track back to Icmeler. After a pleasant walk through the rural farming valleys we eventually met the Icmeler to Datca road, for a 5 km. walk back to Icemeler (or we could have caught one of the many passing taxis...) (User, 5/11)

Walk 16: The new developments near the start of the walk continue and you need to be careful to pass most of the developments and carry on past the new Mosque shown on the map to take the track up to the stream. The White House is now an orange colour! At the 2h35 point there has been some further development in Belbidi and you now emerge at a new Dolmus stop where you can catch the bus back to Mamaris, or you can walk thru the small village to the local college and follow the road back as described in the book. (User, 5/11)

Walk 18: The 'Turkish House' (35 mins) no longer exists, and is not signposted anywhere. We think we identified the start of the path while passing on the Turunc Dolmus, but be aware you may need to search for it. We attempted to walk in reverse the last part of Walk 18 from Turunc to Loryma Resort, but the path described is extremely steep and dangerous and difficult to find. Better to follow the road. (User, 5/11)

Walk 19: We drove to the Loryma Resort Apartments. Although the walk said to go along the road with the tennis courts on the left, there was no tree marked with a "daub of orange paint" and no obvious woodland path to follow. We then tried the road with the tennis courts on our right, but no path. We therefore gave up and headed back to Akyaka. (User, 3/10) + Hi, I've just got back from Turunc where I did the wonderful Walk 19 in the "Bodrum to Marmaris" book. As I was staying in Turunc, I also discovered an alternative start to the walk. Please update the webpage with the information below, as the start of the walk from the Loryma Resort has changed (see also the exisiting update for this walk, where the walker had to abandon the walk at the start after being unable to find the path). The alternative route may also be beneficial for people staying in Turunc, as it avoids the walk up the main road to the Loryma Resort. "This is a fantastic walk, and well worth the effort of finding the start of the path. There are two ways to start the walk, either the standard route beginning from the Loryma Resort Appartments, or an alternative route starting from sea level in Turunc village.

Standard route beginning the walk from the Loryma Resort Appartments.
After passing the tennis courts on your left, continue along the road. There is a new house where the road ends, and the tree with the "daub of orange paint" has likely disappeared (at least I couldn't find it). In any case, there is a large tree in front of you where the road abruptly finishes, with a rock to its left with a green arrow. Either:
1) Follow the arrow, crossing the dry stream bed, and bear right, and you come across the main path in about 20 meters or so, or
2) Go to the immediate right of the tree, dropping down to cross the dry stream bed. You can easily find the main path in front of you on the other side of the dry stream bed.
Either way takes you quickly to the main path which is easy to follow through the woods, along the contour of the hillside.

Alternative route to the ridge beginning in Turunc village.
This route is more convenient for those staying in Turunc, as you can reach the path just below the ridge directly from Turunc without having to go up the road to the Loryma Resort. However, the route is steeper and not waymarked with paint.
The route begins at the small graveyard at the bottom of the pine woods, behind the beach at the north end of Turunc village. To find the graveyard, walk north along the main street in the center of Turunc, go past the Sen Apart hotel, and turn right onto 60 Evler Cd road, and continue for a couple of minutes past the Hotel Mavi Deniz. Go through the graveyard gates and up the steps to the back of the graveyard, then turn left and follow the broad track leading upwards which bends to the right and go past several new graves. Follow a dry stream bed upwards for around 200 meters, until you see a large rock and goat track on the right. The track is marked with a small cairn (although it cannot be guaranteed to still be there). Follow the goat track through the woods, dipping down to cross another small dry stream bed after several minutes, and follow the track (again, there are small cairns marking the way, but these may or may not still be there) as it begins to climb the side of the hill. After 10 - 15 minutes of fairly steep walking, you reach the main path from the Loryma Resort just below the ridge, where there are plenty of painted waymarks. Turn right on the main path to continue up to the ridge and beyond to Icmeler. (User, 9/10)

Walk 19, continued: The tree by the IAM (after the road with the tennis courts on the left) is now re-marked with a daub of orange paint and green paint. The path over the mountain has recently been remarked with both orange and green paint. Near Icmeler we missed or lost the red paint marks and continued following the green paint, emerging into part of the Old Village instead of emerging by Icmeler Beach. There are a few mud slides to cross, and the description is spot on regarding encroaching foliage! (User, 5/11)