Sunflower Books: Landscapes of Western CRETE: WALKS AND CAR TOURS

Western Crete, 7th Edition (2011); updated 15/05/2011

(To visit the web page for this book on our main site, click here )

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

GENERAL: GPS track files are available for all but one of the walks in this edition. Even if you are not a GPS user, one set of the files available for free download can be used with Google Earth, so you can see where the walks go before you even go to Crete. (Sunflower)

Walk 5: After stock control gate at 53 mins there are red and blue waymarks all over the place in various directions.We found a blue waymark by a (new) fence, but no way through. There was a plastic bottle ontop of a stake next to a hole in the fence,so we went through there. After that we fought our way through scrathchy undergrowrth heading north to a shepherds hut,from
where we could see a drystone wall to our left and found the path on the far side of the wall. We lost the waymarks again just before the 1 hr 25 point and had problems getting over the fence onto the track. In Selia (2hrs 05) and taking the turn by the shrine, the stock control fence seems to have moved. The track forks with fences across both forks. Take the right one, then continue down the well-used path (no waymarks). There were a few waymarks further along this path, but they disappeared again so we scrambled down to the road and continued on that. (User, 5/11)

Walk 6: The best view of the lake is from a track on the other side: after retracing to the the 1hr 20 minute point, turn left towards Georgiopolus. Look for a big modern grey house with 2 round windows on the right and take the track almost opposite it. (User, 5/11)

Walk 16: In April we tried to walk up the gorge from the southern end car park, but it was impassable because of the amount of water in the river.There is a very nice mountain walk up the track past the snack bar. (User, 5/11)

Walk 23: We have walked in the Aradhena Gorge in Western Crete several times over a good many years. This year we spent two and a half days exploring different parts of it. We have bought the new seventh edition of the Sunflower Guide to Western Crete and there seems to be a discrepancy between the text and the map included in the guide. If one wishes to climb just the lower part of the gorge and then ascend to Livaniana the text recommends starting the climb at a stone signing directions to Aradhena and to Livaniana. This stone is still there though it also bears a new waymark, a pair of newly-painted red and green stripes which in fact are to be found throughout the gorge now, though some of the older blue waymarks can still be seen. This stone is at around 504750 3895850 using the UTM coordinates on the Anavasi map. (We didn't actually have a GPS receiver with us.) It is a good route to Livaniana and the waymarks are in blue as the guide states. However the map in the guide seems to show the ascent as starting further up the gorge at 504420 3896650, where there is another stone indicating the directions to Livaniana, Marmara and Aradhena. There is a path to Livaniana from there but it is waymarked in red. It passes by a little church. This path is quite useful if one wishes to descend by it from Livaniana for an ascent of the upper part of the gorge to Aradhena village. The waymarking is best seen if one turns left at the sign for Marmara above Livaniana village, ignoring the sign indicating right for Aradhena and Anopoli and follows the red waymarks ñ the upper part of the track has both blue and red waymarks until the paths diverge. Walkers ascending the upper gorge usually emerge by one of the kalderimis near the bridge and in fact there is a blockage preventing one from going much further up. However it is possible to explore the gorge further north by following a track off the hairpin bend on the Aradhena - Anopolis road to a point around 506450 3898600, where there is a kalderimi down. Here one sees no people, only goats, and in May we saw large numbers of the white Cyclamen creticum. (User, 5/11)

Walk 31, suggestion for extension: After the 1h-point, the authors suggest a diversion by walking up the valley until it opens out. I made this into a good circular route (it adds just 1km): When you emerge on the 'pleasantly overgrown track' turn left and follow the track north. It emerges in a clearing before a limestone cliff (with some nice fossils - scallops, sea urchins and marine plants can be seen in the tumbled blocks). The valley starts to open out, and the village of Alfa comes into view over on the west side of the valley. The track soon meets another overgrown track at a junction. Turn sharp right, back uphill (south). Pass through and re-secure a stock gate, walking past a smallholding to a T-junction. Turn right on a track that is occasionally gravel, concrete or polished limestone. Ignore any branches off the track until you come to a whitewashed chapel. Just beyond it, fork right, down into the valley. This will lead you past your turn-off to the bridge and back to the 'ancient' return path (now on your left). (User, 2006) + The route for the one hour extension has been blocked off. At the point where you are supposed to turn left and continue to where the valley opens out there is now a substantial fence made out of steel mesh. We could see where the path was supposed to go and a red arrow on a rock confirmed the route but it was clearly no longer being used. I suspect the path might have been falling away due to erosion and was closed for safety reasons. (User, 10/10)

SUGGESTIONS FOR OTHER WALKS

If you want a short shaded walk from Plakias try crossing the stream facing west. Take the next street right and stay as close to the stream as possible. There are occasional signs to"The Old Mill". Don't cross the stone bridge but carry on to a lovely old church in another hundred yards. Then go back to see the Mill. It is possible to return on this side of the stream but better to retrace steps till almost in the town. Then turn right over the bridge and right again past the Youth Hostel. In 50 yards come to the Lending Library run by a group of ex-pats who are a source of local information. About an hour but more enjoyable to linger and take longer. (User, 5/05)

Walk suggestion: The Mourni Circuit
6km/3.7mi; 1h30min; easy; by car to Mourni (take the road to Spili and turn right immediately after the last house in Mixourouma. Drive up the hill on a largely-unmade gravel road and enter the village; park in the square, in the shade opposite the church.) Leave the SE corner of the square up a steep narrow concrete street. After about 50m/yds you will meet another street coming in from the right. Continue uphill (half-left) through the village and keep climbing upwards until the concrete road gives way to gravel and a T-junction (5min). Turn right here on a good cart track which climbs gently, with small vineyards and fields on both sides. After about 15 minutes you arrive at a well-defined col where the road divides. This provides a wonderful viewpoint - west to the Kalonitis Gorge and Preveli and east to the Kedros mountains. Bear left - keeping to the track - zigzagging down the hill until a tiny church comes in view directly in front of you on a small knoll.   Turn right at the T-junction short of the church and descend steeply down a cart-track into the olive groves and mixed woodland, with a high wire fence on your left. Cross the stream at the bottom (35min; good picnic place on the left) and climb for five minutes up the other side to a T-junction. Turn right on a good track which winds up through oak woods to a distinctive wide Y-junction. Turn left, climbing gently all the time and as you come out of the trees. A huge basin of olive-groves, vineyards and cultivation spreads out below you. Shortly after, Mixourouma and Lambini appear, followed by a small church on the left of the road. Stop and admire the view over Spili and the Kedros mountains to the east (1h05min). Continue through the trees on the now-flat road until you find a rough cart track plunging steeply down on your left (just past a small framed mesh gate on the right). Pick your way carefully down for 5 minutes to the bottom, where there is a huge oak tree on your left. Cross the stream and climb up the shady track towards the village. When you meet the T-junction (there is a high reinforced concrete wall on your right) turn right.    Keep to the main street, back to the square (1h30min). In spring the mountain is a mass of orchids and the intimate mixture of village, mountains, mixed woods and cultivation is unusual in a walk of such a short distance. (User, 2/98)

E4 Route Agia Roumeli-Sougia: We did this (not in your guide) and it took 9h. It is one of the most difficult and tiring routes on the island.