Sunflower Books: Landscapes of Western CRETE: WALKS AND CAR TOURS

Western Crete, 6th Edition (2008); updated 6/06/08

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Updates for walks and car tours (drives) given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

Walk 4: I didn't see the marble bench up on the hillside and didn't have to cross a wooded gully. I passed straight over the first circular grazing area I came to following waymarks but then ran out of clues, so at the second grazing spot I walked around right and started to gently make my way up the right side of the ravine. I happened upon the correct path almost immediately and passed through a stock gate to continue. Once on the path up the ravine I found no waymarks until I was at the top and then E4 poles and wooden railings confirmed the correct route... Rather than come back down the same route, I followed the shepherds' track to Madaro then on to Tsakistra and Kambi. The simple map in the book doesn't show the many hairpins you have to negotiate and it adds another 4km to the route - making this an 18km walk (7Km to Volika and 11km returning via Madaro). The views are beautiful though, and it's a nice tramp through the countryside Here's how: Descend from the Volika Hut to the track below it and follow it right. It leaves this vallev and drops down the adjacent one via numerous switch-backs. Halfway down the hillside, beyond a feeding station with metal troughs lining the side of the track, take the left fork and follow the track down to the village of Madaro. Once at the village the track passes up to the asphalted village square. Walk left and follow the road out of the village. Stay on this road and you'1l skirt the hamlet of Tsakistra and eventually arrive back at the white metal shrine that you took a right turn at earlier in the day. Continue ahead on the road to arrive back at Kambi. (from the User who supplied the GPS tracks for the book)

Walk 3: At the end of 2007, the area around the entrance to the gorge (just past the tavernas) was rather churned up owing to construction of a new building... p50, para 3 reads 'Another large sign directs you left': access to the gorge bed was fenced off; instead, look out for a grey metal gate on the opposite side of the river bed, and make your way to this, where you meet a stone-lined footpath which leads to the gorge... Extension: As well as finishing the walk in Stilos or Nio Horio, there is another possibity: On ascending to the road from the riverbed, cross over the bridge, on the road towards Stilos. Just past the St Pantelimon shrine, take the track off left. Follow this (ignoring all turn-offs) until you have skirted a tomato field, and joined another track coming in from the right. Turn left to cross the stream, and continue on the track opposite - again ignoring all turn-offs. This ends in a shady spot with a church on your right and the road straight ahead. Turn right, and follow the road downhill, under the National Highway, to a T-junction. Turn right and head for Kalives, where it is possible to pick up a 5pm Vamos to Hania bus. Allow 1-1/2 to 2 hours to do this option, which represents some pleasant and relatively straightforward walking after the scrambly Diktamos Gorge. (User, 2/08)

Walk 7: A new road has been driven from further up the valley to the mouth of the gorge, ending in a large flat area - a quarry/cement works. There is now the constant hum of machinery. Route changes: After 20 minutes (after crossing the second watercourse) the old path has been fenced off; the new route has been moved left about 50 metresup the hillside. Otherwise it follows the old route over sloping terrain through scrubby thorn, to meet the old route again at the E4 signs. The gorge itself was as described (but we could not get all the way down because of the volume of water). A few days later we tried to walk UP the gorge from the concrete works at Miseria. The road up the gorge has been extended up to the 2h05min mark, where the gorge opens out well beyond the olive grove. There is a new working area which is not accessible and gaining the watercourse was quite precipitous on loose scree beside the new road. We went up the river bed to about halfway through the works site (where again the high water kept us back). It looks, however, as if they may be building a dam in the gorge, as a hugh area of the gorge wall has been scoured flat. (User, 6/07)

Walk 13: There is no longer a bus from Polyrinia to Kastelli. (e-mail, 2007) + I walked back to Kastelli from Polirinia - here is a fuller description: With the vine-covered taverna on your right, walk away from the village towards the road. After the last building on your left (coloured white), descend on a path left, to the road. Once on the road, turn left and, almost immediately, turn right - taking the track. Follow this all the way to Kastelli. The track becomes asphalted half-way along and eventually brings you into central Kastelli beside a supermarket (left). Turn left to access the amenities, including the bus station. An excellent way to end a great walk. (User, 3/08)

Walk 17: This is a terrific walk. Your grading of moderate to strenuous is accurate, but I think you may have undertimed it - 6h might be nearer the mark. From the ascent out of Lisos Cove to Paleohora there is very little shade. (User, 3/08)

Walk 27: Between the 10min and 30min-points, there is now an asphalted road all the way to the chapel. From the chapel, continue ahead on track and pick your way down a roughly-hewn slope. Turn right at the bottom to reach the abandoned olive press. [Editor's note: This e-mail was received between editions, and we do not know if it applies to the 6th edition, apart from the asphalt to the chapel.]

Walk 31, suggestion for extension: After the 1h-point, the authors suggest a diversion by walking up the valley until it opens out. I made this into a good circular route (it adds just 1km): When you emerge on the 'pleasantly overgrown track' turn left and follow the track north. It emerges in a clearing before a limestone cliff (with some nice fossils - scallops, sea urchins and marine plants can be seen in the tumbled blocks). The valley starts to open out, and the village of Alfa comes into view over on the west side of the valley. The track soon meets another overgrown track at a junction. Turn sharp right, back uphill (south). Pass through and re-secure a stock gate, walking past a smallholding to a T-junction. Turn right on a track that is occasionally gravel, concrete or polished limestone. Ignore any branches off the track until you come to a whitewashed chapel. Just beyond it, fork right, down into the valley. This will lead you past your turn-off to the bridge and back to the 'ancient' return path (now on your left). (User, 2006)

SUGGESTIONS FOR OTHER WALKS

If you want a short shaded walk from Plakias try crossing the stream facing west. Take the next street right and stay as close to the stream as possible. There are occasional signs to"The Old Mill". Don't cross the stone bridge but carry on to a lovely old church in another hundred yards. Then go back to see the Mill. It is possible to return on this side of the stream but better to retrace steps till almost in the town. Then turn right over the bridge and right again past the Youth Hostel. In 50 yards come to the Lending Library run by a group of ex-pats who are a source of local information. About an hour but more enjoyable to linger and take longer. (User, 5/05)

Walk suggestion: The Mourni Circuit
6km/3.7mi; 1h30min; easy; by car to Mourni (take the road to Spili and turn right immediately after the last house in Mixourouma. Drive up the hill on a largely-unmade gravel road and enter the village; park in the square, in the shade opposite the church.) Leave the SE corner of the square up a steep narrow concrete street. After about 50m/yds you will meet another street coming in from the right. Continue uphill (half-left) through the village and keep climbing upwards until the concrete road gives way to gravel and a T-junction (5min). Turn right here on a good cart track which climbs gently, with small vineyards and fields on both sides. After about 15 minutes you arrive at a well-defined col where the road divides. This provides a wonderful viewpoint - west to the Kalonitis Gorge and Preveli and east to the Kedros mountains. Bear left - keeping to the track - zigzagging down the hill until a tiny church comes in view directly in front of you on a small knoll.   Turn right at the T-junction short of the church and descend steeply down a cart-track into the olive groves and mixed woodland, with a high wire fence on your left. Cross the stream at the bottom (35min; good picnic place on the left) and climb for five minutes up the other side to a T-junction. Turn right on a good track which winds up through oak woods to a distinctive wide Y-junction. Turn left, climbing gently all the time and as you come out of the trees. A huge basin of olive-groves, vineyards and cultivation spreads out below you. Shortly after, Mixourouma and Lambini appear, followed by a small church on the left of the road. Stop and admire the view over Spili and the Kedros mountains to the east (1h05min). Continue through the trees on the now-flat road until you find a rough cart track plunging steeply down on your left (just past a small framed mesh gate on the right). Pick your way carefully down for 5 minutes to the bottom, where there is a huge oak tree on your left. Cross the stream and climb up the shady track towards the village. When you meet the T-junction (there is a high reinforced concrete wall on your right) turn right.    Keep to the main street, back to the square (1h30min). In spring the mountain is a mass of orchids and the intimate mixture of village, mountains, mixed woods and cultivation is unusual in a walk of such a short distance. (User, 2/98)

E4 Route Agia Roumeli-Sougia: We did this (not in your guide) and it took 9h. It is one of the most difficult and tiring routes on the island.