Sunflower Books: WALK & EAT CORISCA

1st edition (2006); updated 2/6//08

(To visit the web page for this book on our main site, click here )

Updates for the walks, restaurants, shops and recipes on Corsica given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

 

We just got back from two wonderful weeks in Calvi where, following your
recommendation, we had some superb meals with Mme Luciani. She was tickled
pink to see your section on U Casanu , so much so she asked if she could
borrow my book to have it translated and photocopied. On our final visit
she returned the book to me, when she was highly amused informing me that
she is mentioned as the owner of the restaurant. She said that Hiromassa-san
is in fact the owner and that he was a little peeved to see her getting the
plaudits. She thought it all hilarious. (User, 6/6)

Just returned from a splendid vacation in Corsica, we had so much pleasure
in using the guide Walk and Eat. We did 6 of the walks, and we
are very impressed by the accuracy of the descriptions of the walks. (e-mail, 7/06)

Walk 1: We think we have underestimated the distance on this walk, and that the timings should be more generous, especially in heat. Distance/time should read 9km/5.6mi; 3h10min; time checks in the text should be amended to: You pass the shell of a building (30min) and fifteen minutes later join the lighthouse road (45min). Turn right here and, when the road forks (55min), head right towards the Phare ... You should reach the beach in 1h30min. If you want to go on to the lighthouse, there is a a steep path from the beach straight up to it. On the return, note that from the road junction (the 55min-point on the outward walk), you can take a path running just to the left of the road. In calm weather, you can usually follow paths all the way back to the ruin at the 30min-point. (Authors, 4/08)

Walk 9: The tracks to the Anse de Fournali may be more that 'fairly' bumpy, so do check your car insurance. (Authors, 4/08)

Walk 12: Important: the original path from Notre Dame de la Stella is changed. The text should read: '... Notre Dame de la Stella (45min). 10m before the chapel, take the cart track at the right of the wall. After 100m go right, uphill. Keep left and ignore a path to the right. (The original path is no longer maintained; there is a new path marked with orange paint.)... From the building dated 1785 in Occi, walk towards a stone wall and then left, away from Occi, to a path that leads straight towards Calvi and the lighthouse on La Revellata. (At first the path leading away from Occi rises a little; I found 'left downhill' very confusing.) Past the Calanche, the waymarking is now all orange. (User, 10/05) + The church at Occi has been restored. (Sunflower, 2008)

Walk 13: At a fork about 200m/yds along, go right (the left fork is no longer signposted to the Couvent de Corbara)... Around the 40min-point the text should read: "You pass an old ruined convent (40min) on an S-bend; 50m past the convent you can take a small path down to the right (to the road leading to Occiglioni). (User, 2006) + We don't think the path just past the convent (40min) is worth taking - far better to take the old mule trail described in the book, which has recently been cleared. There is no longer a cairn, but the path is just opposite a signpost pointing back to Sant'Antonino. (Sunflower, 6/08)

Excursion: Corsica has received considerable funding from the EU for modernising its railways - both the railcars and the tracks. The old-fashioned 'trinichellu' cars will be replaced by very modern railcars with picture windows, wheel-chair access, etc. The rail lines will be improved for the trains to run faster (cutting the Bastia-Ajaccio journey to under 3h). Some 130km of track has already been updated, but be aware that during the 2008 and 2009 seasons, other parts of the track will be closed for works (in summer 2008, the stretch between Ile-Rousse and Ponte Leccia). The rail company will lay on buses keeping to the same schedule. So for instance, you could board in Calvi, go by rail to Ile-Rousse, transfer to a bus, then get back on the train. There are a couple of the new railcars operating, but they are only experimental, and the new cars will not come into use until 2009. All work should be finished by 2010. Of course rail enthusiasts are very upset at losing the old cars, a couple of which may be kept to run in future as special attractions. (Authors, 4/08)

Restaurant update: Due to torrential rain and tummy upsets, we weren't able to get around as much as we would have liked, but U Furnellu (St-Florent) and La Cave (Ile-Rousse) were as super as ever. At U Furnellu the superb Napoleon dessert is NOT on the a la carte menu, but they still have it (it is part of the "terroir" menu. At La Cave the chestnut cake is now served in a "cupcake" form with a crème anglaise sauce... At the Hotel Monte d'Oro, the duck recipe described in the book is different now - there are NO mushrooms, and the sauce contains some butter and cream - it is made from fruits of the forest, honey, PAPRIKA AND CURRY! Still delicious. We even had a sweet - "fondant de chataigne" - this was a crispy 100% chestnut flour cupcake filled with hot dark chocolate. In Calvi we went to the quayside determinted to try a different restaurant, but Le Comme Chez Soi STILL had the most appealing, wide-ranging menu. They do three speciality dishes that are not served anywhere else in Calvi: Tagine of crayfish, scallops and prawns Oriental-style; a Mini-aoili - Provençal fish plate with cod, steamed vegetables and spicy aioli sauce; Roast lamb with Coriscan wild mint. To finish up we had THEIR chocolate chestnut "moelleux" - a hugh pie of 100% chestnut flour with hot dark chocolate and whipped cream (one serving would be enough for 3 people). So at least we can report that these 4 restaurants are definitely still up to scratch! (Pat & John, 6/08)