Walk & Eat Series: KEFALONIA, 2nd edition (2009)

Updated 09/10/2011

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Updates given below supplement the information provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)

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General: We did nine of your recommended walks and they took us into some amazing countryside. A botanist told us the wild flowers were particularly vivid this year as Kefalonia had had a wet winter. We tried a number of your recommended restaurants and all of them were very good to outstanding. We ended up going to the 'Arkondiko' restaurant in Argostoli many times which served consistently excellent food at a very reasonable price. The Sto Psito restaurant above Kalamia beach and Taverna Apolafsi on the Lixouri peninsular also offered delicious food with wonderful views. All in all we found your guide indispensable, referring to it as 'The Oracle'. Walks and food can be subjective, so it was refreshing to find a like-minded companion pointing us in similar directions to where we would have gone anyway if we had the time to do the necessary research. (User, 5/09) + Drapano Bridge is now only accessible by foot or two wheeled vehicles not by car. (User, 7/11)

Where to stay: There is now a bus running between Lourdata and Argostoli via Trapezaki. (User, 4/08)

Buses: Just a warning about bus timetables. They are not entirely what they appear. Specfically, the bus to Fiskardo from Argostoli in the morning requires a change at Divarata, where you switch to the bus arriving from Sami via Agia Efimia. Note that the return journey to Argostoli from Fiskardo returns via Agia Efimia and Sami. Do not therefore expect to catch the return bus anywhere along the west coast between Divarata and Argostoli.... The bus from Argostoli to Ag Gerasimos is a circular route going to Valsamata and the monastery via the Sami road, but returning via Troianata and the Skala road. (User, 1/09) + Going so early in May (5-19) meant the buses were so infrequent it would have been impossible to do many of the walks mentioned. We reluctantly hired a car but found it invaluable. (I realise we could have used taxis but were not confident of their cost or reliability. It cost 20 euros from the airport to Argostoli, (our base), whereas a hired car cost us less than 30 euros a day. (User, 5/09)

Restaurants: A user complains about Kaliva in Skala. It was fine when we had a meal there, but Greek restaurants, especially in more remote areas, can change. Skala is extremely quiet outside the tourist season so maybe it's changed hands. As an alternative, a restaurant recommended to us whilst we were there was ''Sokrates'', just off the road leading past the Roman Villa entrance. It's one we would have included as a number three choice had we had the opportunity to eat there. It does seem to be a more traditional type of taverna. Perhaps other readers would like to report on that ­ or indeed on Kaliva. (Authors, 5/09) + You recommended Patsouras in Argostoli; it has changed hands and is below average now. (User, 8/09) + Other users rave about a restaurant in Fiskardo, "It was called "Lagoudera", and if you are standing on the quay outside The Captain's Cabin, it is on the left, towards the centre of the harbour, about 3(?) premises along. (User, 7/11)

Walk 1: Here is a remark on your excellent book: There is a beautiful alternative for the route (Along the piccolo yiro). Some time after Sto Psito there is a wall on the left, coloured beige. Just behind the wall there is a path to the sea and from there there is a magnificent path along the sea till a few hundred meters before the Lighthouse. (User, 2008) + Diversion highly recommended. The beige wall is the continuation of a rather imposing archway entrance. It is about 1/2 mile from the Sto Psito and about 300 yards beyond Oskar's. The track has metal posts to prevent vehicular access, but is otherwise completely accessible. It rejoins the Piccolo Yiro between the western end of the road to the Italian monument and the Hotel Galaxy. There are a few tiny sheltered coves along the way, where you might swim. (User, 1/09) + There are no remains of a waterwheel now, only the water channels. (User, 5/09)

Walk 3: This walk is perfectly feasible by bus. Departs Argostoli 10.00 (but check!) and returns at 13.00. Best to do the walk first to ensure you are back in time, then to visit the monastery in the spare time you should have afterwards. Note that the bus follows a circular route, going out via the Sami road, but returning to Argostoli via Troianata and the Skala road. (User, 1/09)

Walk 4: Before you reach the park gates, just when you think the road is about to turn to a track, you come to a kind of communication centre and the poor Greek road suddenly changes to the best road on the whole island and is then a new tarmac ribbon right to the top ( Lots of EU money), which really is not good for walking on ( now beware of speeding hire cars) the old track was the main basis for the walk. the view is still good from the top though. (User, 7/11) + The walk up to Mount Ainos has changed slightly, the track that leads to the communication masts is now a tarmac road that alows acces right up to the towers, and is probaly the bnest road on the island. The way marked path that bears right through the woods once the sumit is reached has been layed as a clear lanscaped path that follows the ridge. (User, 8/11) A previous updater has told you about the tarmac road to the top of Mt Ainos. On the right of the road about 100 metres before the picnic area are some log steps at the start of a path marked by white stones. Boots are recommended. It rejoins the road before the summit but is a good walk and (it was a clear day when we went) gives stunning views over a huge area to the west. Workmen were installing new bench seats if any walkers wish to stop for a snack. (User, 10/11)

Walk 6: The bus times are such that there isn't really time to do the full walk on a day trip from Argostoli. I know you have given suggestions for shortening the walks, however what would be handy is giving directions on how to recognise the starting point for sections of the walk if done in reverse (eg I tried, but failed to find the path to 'Throne of the Queen of Fiskardo' from the main road in Fiskardo ). (User) + To Pefko Taverna - You imply that you have to sit by the main road. Go through the taverna and sit in the olive/citrus grove out the back. Also accessible by the small gate off the road. Great book! (User, 08) + We got a little lost around the horse compound which is now defunct. We found a yellow waymarked path to the right but it was not sigriposted to 'Dafnoudi'. We followed the path downhill for some distance but as it appeared it was continuing back to the coast we did not feel confident that it was taking us in the right direction so retraced our footsteps to the compound and found our way back to Fiskardo. (It was still an incredibly beautiful walk and Kymilia beach was a lovely place to swim.) (User, 5/09) + (a) We had some difficulty following the route after the ruins of the Christian basilica (20 mins). We veered slightly to the right and followed just below a stone wall which took us round to the gate barrier. (b) On leaving Emblissi beach (1 hr) the path into the woods is a little overgrown (we met some walkers with your book who hadn't found it & had taken the track/road behind the beach). A few metres into the wood there was a sort of metal grid gate to open & pass through. (c) The horse compound (2 hrs) has closed. We carried on past it to the main road where we came out by a craft shop. The owner told us she thought the path (described in book as signposted to Dafnoudi) is no longer usable. She tried to describe a different path to Andipata but we used the main road (about 10-15 mins) to Andipata & rejoined the walk there. (User, 10/11)

Walk 7: Re your footnote on p103, we walked through the acropolis ruins & turned right for a short distance. There are excellent views over Sami & it is a nice spot for a picnic. (User, 10/11)

Walk 9: We parked in Poros & walked up the main road to the walk start in Tzanata. Two local people told us (separately) that there are new & important excavations going on just off that section of road but that they are "secret" at present to prevent too many people going there until they are ready. We couldn't find them but future walkers may wish to try. (User, 10/11)

Walk 10. Old Skala, No problem finding the old olive press and the turn off for the bell tower soon after, we then followed down to the first wash house but then could not go any further because it was overgrown and we had to back-track. (User, 7/11)

A few walk suggestions: Katelios/Mounda beach: There is a good long beach walk eastwards from Katelios along Katelios beach and Mounda beach. There is a headland between the 2 beaches which may require a bit of scrambling. It may be possible to go along the shore beyond Cape Mounda as far as Skala, but if not, there are several tracks leading down to Mounda beach, from which Skala would be accessible. Alternatively, return to Katelios. St George's castle: A half-day trip to by bus St George's Castle is perfectly feasible. We took the Skala bus, got off by the castle and walked up - about 1/2 mile climb on the approach road. Entrance was free! Check opening times - it closes mid-afternoon. Fantastic views! Refreshment is available just below the castle. A number of buses pass near the castle for the return. We took the one from Ag Gerasimos (see note on buses above). Descending from the castle, turn right (towards Argostoli) on reaching the main road. In about 1/4 mile, reach a minor road on the right, signposted to Ag Gerasimos. The bus leaves Ag Gerasimos at 13.00 (but check) and joins the main road at this junction. Best to be there by 13.10, though the bus is more likely to arrive about 13.30. Argostoli lagoon: It is possible to spend a pleasant hour walking beside the water here. Facing the Drapano Bridge in Argostoli, go right and a path, initially paved, follows the water to the end of the lagoon. There is a little bird sanctuary here as well as picnic tables. There is also a heritage centre, though it was closed when we were there. Remember to take some bread for the ducks! Unfortunately, it is not convenient to walk right round the lagoon and return via the Drapano Bridge because it is necessary to walk along the main road which is both busy and narrow. Other walks:
The tourist office in Argostoli may have leaflets for walks from Sami to Antisamos beach and from Agia Efimia to Divarata. (User, 1/09)