Sunflower Books: WALK & EAT LISBON

1st edition (2005); updated 1/12//09

(To visit the web page for this book on our main site, click here )

Updates for the walks, restaurants, shops and recipes in Lisbon and the surrounding area given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

Buses: ScottUrb buses: Most ScottUrb buses now leave and terminate at Portela da Sintra station (penultimate station on Lisbon to Sintra line). Times and service nos. have been completely revised. There is an information office nearly opposite the main (older) entrance to Sintra central station (end of line). Turn sharp right at main  exit... The hourly 403 is useful for Walk 6 as it does Sintra - Cascais via Cabo da Roca. (User, 4/09)

Accommodation: A company in Portugal offering interesting accommodation in Lisbon has written to us; you might like to look at www.friendlyrentals.com (Sunflower, 10/07)

Walk 1: We think the map and directions are a little misleading around the Praça da Figueira. You leave the Praça on Rua dom Duarte, not Rua da Palma. Check this on Google maps. (User, 4/09)

Walk 2: Just before the 1h26min-point, on leaving the Fonte das Passarinhos, you walk down right on tarmac, not left. (User, 10.05) [Author: Obviously if one turned left one would retrace ones steps along the way just walked. We assumed people would realise that you continue along the route on leaving the fountain, in which case you are immediately confronted with a junction where you turn down left (following the Lagos sign) as indicated in the text.] + We enjoyed this walk, though we split it into two halves and took the bus up to the Pena Palace for the ridge part of the walk. That worked well and you might like to suggest it to readers. But the Sintra tourist office guide calls this walk "very strenuous", whereas you categorise it as "moderate". It is obvious when you look up from Sintra town square to the Moors Castle that this is anything but a moderate climb. (User, 5/07; the authors comment: When grading a walk several factors have to be considered, not only height gain (which in this case is clearly stated as being 350m). In this case underfoot conditions are generally excellent and most of the uphill is on a steady gradient. The book is designed for walkers whilst the tourist guide is for allcomers.) + On page 39, just below the picture, the instruction "zigzag to the right just 10 metres above the gate" is wrong. It must mean '10 minutes' rather than '10 metres' (which then works nicely), and the zigzag is not to the right. (User, 5/07 - confirmed by another user (also 5/07) who writes: We "zigzag to the right just 10 metres above the gate and, ignoring the steps up to the right (18 min), follow the main, level path. But a minute later do fork right uphill (above a small castellated house)." I ignored the steps to the right 10 metres above, and found myself on a small trail that got smaller. Eventually, I beat my way uphill (after going back to the fork in the road and reassuring myself I was on the right trail.) Before I got to the top, I was obviously on the wrong trail, and eventually clambered over a stone wall onto the main path up above. I think the "10 metres" should maybe be 100 metres. Also, while I didn't time it, the "minute later" might be 5 minutes or so (i'm not sure). Thanks for the guide book. Sintra was absolutely wonderful! [The authors comment that they will check this out as soon as possible; there have obviously been some changes.] + We went to Lisbon a couple of years ago and made some use of your Walk & Eat book there, although at the time I wasn't able to walk very far because of ankle problems. But we had a fine time doing the Sintra route. Keep up the good work! (User, 3/08) + I see in the current updates several people have gotten confused "10 meters above the gate" (page 39). There is really no need for that, as despite the doubts raised, the book's instructions from this point are quite correct except for the fact the first "zig" is curving to the LEFT. But I found that quite obvious... After visiting the palace (page 40) it would be much clearer if the book stated that the continuing path can be found by just retracing your steps a couple of minutes down to the picnic area passed on the way up (on your left at that time). This is "Picadeira", where the mentioned footpath can be picked up. (User, 4/09) + I don't think the directions make clear that to fully complete the walk as described, the admission fee for Pena Palace gardens (currently ¤5 per person) must be paid at the entrance gate. It is not necessary to pay for anything else, unless a supplementary visit, e.g. Castelo dos Mouros, is required. (User, 4/09)

Walk 3: This walk presents a few navigation problems because there are so many tracks that look very similar (and in fact new ones going in when we were there!). After turning right at the T-junction (with signpost) at the 41min-point, one needs to keep ahead until the road down to Capuchos is reached (as shown on the map). Ignore any turnings before this road. (Author, 10/05) + We made the mistake of starting around 4pm; this meant that the two main highlights of the walk the Monserrate gardens and the Covento dos Capuchos were both closed when we arrived. Please stress that this walk should only be attempted at the beginning of the day as without visits to these attractions it really is not worth it. (User, 10/06)

Walk 4: The map after the second watercourse (page 56) is wrong and caused me much confusion. The green-marked track on the map here curves west before it splits up. The correct track to follow however (as far as I understand it now) actually curves directly east at this point. The text (17min) seems correct. (User, 4/09)

Walk 5: See my comments about the stream crossing under Walk 6. (User, 4/09)
.
Walk 6: After the 1h11min-point, we missed the detour junction to the caves and blowholes (our timings did not coincide, and the word T-junction did not fit the situation on the ground. We went back to the road and tried again but never found the right spot (with hindsight there was only one other track we did not try). We ended up in Azoia and walked down the road to Cabo da Roca. (User, 10.05) [Author: I am puzzled by this comment. We walked this 3 or 4 times and so have a very clear mental picture of this section. The waymarking sharp right at 1h07min should be easy to spot, and within 4-5 mins one reaches the waymarked T-junction. There are no other turnings off (apart from the rough track off right mentioned in the text).] + Crossing the stream (also Walk 5) can be tricky. My advice is take your boots off and paddle. It's a sandy surface. Praia Grande: the 320 steps are now blocked, deemed too dangerous. Instead use the GR footpath by the turning circle at the end of the beach promenade. This winds up to the top of the cliff. After 15-20 mins the trig. point at 40 mins should become visible. See also my comments under 'Buses' above. (User, 4/09) + The steps at the end of Praia Grande beach are closed and look like they will remain so as parts of the cliff appear to have come away and the steps are well fenced off. A diversion is signposted from the mini-roundabout in front of the Casa da Gale Restaurant. Although not particularly well waymarked, it is possible to follow this up tracks to the top of the cliffs where it eventually rejoins the coastpath at the top of the closed steps. This walk is well worth doing. Directions near the end are a bit vague but it is difficult to go far wrong if you use the map. (e-mail, 12/09)

Walk 7: At the 57min-point the track no longer exists - the field has been ploughed up. We walked round the edge and with binoculars picked up the distant path. We found the timings between the quarries inaccurate. (User, 10.05) + We never did even get to start this walk as we could not find the starting point, despite several runs to and fro along the road. Please could we have more explicit guidance on how to find the Capela. (User, 5/07; the authors' answer: The access to the capela is clearly marked on the map. Look for the bus stop, just by the junction of the N10 with the 1056. The lane up to the capela is almost opposite. The capela itself is 200m up the lane. )

Walk 8: The text on page 98 reads 'Turn right on the road and, where it swings off left (1h12min)...' It would be more accurate to say 'Continue along the road and, where it swings off left....'. (The text in the book assumes users will go off to the other side of the road to explore as suggested, in which case they would need to turn right on rejoining the road.) (Author, 10/05)

Walk 9: IMPORTANT. A new motorway is being built in this area, making the walk either difficult or impassable at present. Basically it has all been bulldozed from the 6min to the 1h38min-point. When the work is finished, the authors will check to see if anything is left - one user said that it looked as if even the fortifications had been destroyed. (Sunflower, 10/06) + Two new housing estates are being built at either end of the walk in Ericeira and Mafra with new road layouts making the directions impossible to follow. Paths are difficult to find or even blocked off by building works. In addition, a motorway has opened along much of the route. Although there's little traffic so not much noise, it is a bit of an eyesore and makes the route hard to follow where it goes near it. Would not recommend this walk anymore. (e-mail, 12/09)

Restaurants: there is a fantastic and quite new restaurant in the village of Colares (where they make a unique but previously well-known wine in very small quantities nowadays) just beyond Monserrat gardens. It is very much in a country village but has more charm of ambiance and sophistication in cooking without high expense, even with the current high euro, than many restaurants in Lisbon itself and certainly among the tourist hordes in Sintra. It is called Colares Velho, Largo Dr Carlos Franc, 1-4, 2705-192 Colares Tel +351 219 292 406; www.restaurantecolaresvelho.com (user, 4/08) + I just spent a holiday week in Lisbon and I took your guide with me. Actually, since I discovered your travelling guides I use them whenever I go on a trip, as I find them very useful and filled with excellent tips to make the most of your visit. It's precisely because I trust your advice, that I wanted to share with you a discovery I made on my recent trip to Lisbon. It is a restaurant with an impressive vue of the city, named "Atira-te ao rio". It's located at the mouth of the Tagus river, to get there you have to take a ferry and once arrived, you enjoy a magnificent panorama of Lisbon. They serve traditional Brasilian food, their speciality are fish dishes and if you want to spend a magic moment, I recommend you to taste your meal at the huge terrace from which you can admire the beautiful view of the city from the other side of the river. You can eat from around 20 euros and it's the ideal place to relax after a long tourism day. It's a little paradise. (User, 9/09)