Sunflower Books: WALK & EAT MADEIRA

2nd edition (2008); updated 1/4/2011

(To visit the web page for this book on our main site, click here )

Updates for the walks, restaurants, shops and recipes on Madeira given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).

IMPORTANT (1)!! Devastating forest fires, fanned by 100kph winds, hit the island around 13-16 August. The areas worst affected are south from Pico do Arieiro and around Camacha. Several mountain walks have been closed, so DO check the website www.madeiratourism.org and click on 'English', then on 'Ecotourism' for walker's notices. Ten years' of reafforestation around Arieiro, the Santa Luzia Valley and the Parque Ecologico do Funchal have been wiped out. (Sunflower, 8/10)

IMPORTANT (2)!! A catastrophic storm (the worst since records began 150 years ago) hit the south of Madeira on 20 February 2010, causing mudslides. Many people were killed or lost their homes. This followed on from another bad storm in the north of the island earlier in the same month. The worst damage is in an arc running from Ponta do Sol in the west to just short of Machico in the east, and has badly affected the most popular levada walks in our book - those along the Tornos, Serra and Norte, many sections of which are no longer walkable. It is difficult to balance our advice: on the one hand, Madeira now needs the support of tourists more than ever; on the other hand, it would be irresponsible of us not to warn our users of the potential hazards on some walks. Obviously the first priority is to rebuilt roads and bridges and to rehouse people; the levadas will be a secondary preoccupation. But the Norte and Tornos are critical levadas, and we would expect the most urgent repairs to be made before summer. So we would urge you to go, not delay any plans - the island is as beautiful as ever, and all the roads are open. But walkers should only proceed where the way ahead looks safe (see specific details on each walk below) - and be prepared for official closures as repair work takes place. WALKING BOOTS ARE A NECESSITY ON ALL WALKS, AS ALL ARE WET AND MUDDY AT THE VERY LEAST.
We are just back from a trip checking as many of our routes as was possible in 2 weeks. Just below is current information (22 March 2010) on all the routes in the 2nd edition; older updates appear below. For official information about walks not described in our book, go to www.madeiratourism.org and click on 'English', then on 'Ecotourism' Note also, walks described as "officially closed" may not be signed as such at the outset; sometimes you will be able to go quite a distance before having to turn back! (Sunflower, 23/03/10)

Excursions 1 and 2: Both are open - the cable car and bus routes are operating normally.

Buses: No bus timetables are available from the Tourist Office who were extremely negative about walking any levadas and even the tour manager of guests staying in our hotel told them not to walk the levadas. However TJ Walking have produced their version of the bus timetables which can be downloaded from the web free, The ones for bus routes we used proved very accurate. (User, 3/11)

Walk 1: Not possible; this area suffered terribly from the storm. The chapel at Babosas has gone. Both routes from Babosas to Romeiros are cut by landslides and are dangerous; the path down to Bom Succeso has been wiped out. (no improvement as of 12/5/10 according to a user) + Sunflower was astounded to receive the following e-mail on 29/7/10: "We managed to complete walk 1 (ribeira de joao gomes) yesterday, but thought you might appreciate an update: At Romerios (25 min) the 1939 tap is definitely not there anymore, as noted by previous users.. . On the cobbled trail, the first sign on the path is missing. The second sign is leaning heavily, almost fallen over... The Levada do Bom Sucesso was seriously affected by landslides (we witnessed two small ones during the walk). The log-stepped path is completely destroyed in places, leaving mud and rubble underfoot. It took approximately 2 hours from this point to get to the 'vertiginous bridge' (1h55min), scrambling for roughly half of the time. Within this section, however, there are red painted signs at 2 or 3 points, and a hand-drawn arrow pointing left on a floor-level rock at the T junction of the waterfall and pool in the riverbed (the waterfall and pool are absolutely inaccessible), indicating that others had been there and are perhaps intending to reopen the walk in the future. We did complete the walk, but are young, very physically fit, and perhaps a little foolhardy. It took 3.5-4 hours in total." (User, 7/10) + Walk 1 Due to dodgy knees I prefer to climb rather than descend so started from the "end " of the walk after visiting the botanical gardens.. We found this an enjoyable walk with the only problem being a slight scramble just prior to joining the cobbled path at Monte which had been taped off. Due to no head for heights we followed the alternative walk avoiding the Levada dos Tornos where the sign to the Levada do Bom Successo is still leaning although vaguely pointing in the correct direction. Access to both waterfalls on is fine, but you need to keep a look out for the red arrows indicating the path to the waterfalls. We scrambled down to the riverbed near the waterfall towards the top of this walk for our picnic lunch. (User, 3/11)

Walk 2: Users report that this walk is again in fairly good condition throughout. Jasmin Tea House is closed. (Sunflower, 11/10)

Walk 3: OK apart from minor scrambles; very slippery (as always). The old ER107 offers an escape route (see older update below). To catch the bus back to Funchal be sure to wait at the stop opposite the NUN's VALLEY tea house/restaurant (just downhill from the larger Vale das Freiras restaurant). + The path down from Eira do Serrado to Curral das Freiras is well passable but there are really some scars (small canyons) along the lowest parts of the mountainside. The old road really appears to be completely closed. There has been a rather large land slide over it and even if the path from the V-turn to the old road is O.K. (it did not look used) I am not sure if I would want to cross that landslide on the road! (User, walking group leader, 5/10) [So it looks as if the 'escape route' is out!] + We did this walk last week and it was fine. (User, 6/10) + We did this walk on a very fine day and the good news is that the walk was fine and a lot less slippery than the previous time we did it. The bad news is that the reason for this is the whole of the mountainside has been devastated by the fires (this includes the walk to the lookout point) and there is almost no vegetation to slip on. Most of the chestnuts at the top appear to have survived but from there down everything has been cooked to a cinder almost as far the road at the bottom. In fact the acrid smell is still very prominent. There are already signs of the vegetation starting to sprout again but I'd imagine that it will take a number of years before it is back as before. The landslide on the disused road is still there. Also almost at the bottom there is a fallen tree with numerous branches blocking the way. This may require some to go on all fours to get under, whilst a larger person with a rucksack would struggle to get through. (User, 10/10). We completed this beautiful downhill last Monday. Most is passable as previous update, but there have been several new slips which has made the path very narrow and a new slip near the bottom which has taken a chunk of the path away. We got past by clinging to roots and rock as well as sheer nerve ! Not recommended for anyone not very sure of themselves or of heights. (User, 11/10) + As I wanted to end our walk at the Eira do Serrada I enquired at the kiosk of the rural buses (next to the cable car) if it was possible to get the bus from the Eira and was given a 81 bus timetable pointing out the time the last bus left the Eira as these are few and far between so the "old" road is open although there is still work in progress in places. Starting at Curral das Freiras we climbed to the Eira do Serrado encountering no problems. (User, 3/11)

Walk 4: At present the Serra route is passable from Camacha to just before the ER201 (3h-point), where there is a hugh landslide. It's best to start the walk at Aguas Mansas (see footnote page 51) and walk back southwest to Camacha. The Tornos route is too dangerous, with silted-up tunnels and broken levada channels. + Due to bus times we were unable to start at Aguas Mansas so ended here but on our walk from Camacha noticed bus 113 from Camacha to Canical ? running along this road which could drop you off where the blue line of the levada shown starts on the map where you turn left off the road (shown green) and enter the forest. Perhaps a little more investigation may be necessary. Bus 29 is now the 129. (User, 3/11)

Walk 5: This walk is fine. (Sunflower, 11/10)

Walk 6: This walk is ok, but refer to the older update of 2/2010 below - it is still valid. The whaling museum is still not open, but the Caniçal promenade IS open (according to a user of 11/10). + On the second part of the walk there is a new cemetery. Walk ahead past it, then look for the levada on the left. (User, 3/11)

Walk 7: This walk is ok.

Walk 8: Not checked, but a post-storm report by a users says "New large landslip between Pontinha and Ponta de S Jorge which crosses both the lower coastal track and your purple alternative way up but got across these ok. There wasn't a no entry sign at top of this purple alternative, but I'd guess that there might be soon.The other main tracks are ok." Sunflower checked the top of the alternative, and it was very clean (looked newly cleaned), with NO warning sign.

Walk 9: A post-storm report reads: I went down the Entrosa track from Arco to Boaventura and then back up it again to Arco and felt that your previous user reports [see below] exaggerate the dangers. There was a metal temporary road works style "no entry" barrier but only half way across the start of the track at Snack Bar Arco. Some recent debris about 300 metres from start of track. Further down there was debris and some missing barrier at the first steep bend and below this the partly eroded section with interesting cane and blue cord "barrier" more for show than to hang on to." The best solution is to follow the walk from Boaventura (as in the book) for as long as you feel safe, and then return. The lower part of the route is ok and gorgeous. So it's especially suitable if you are travelling by car.

Walk 10: Reopened and fine. (Sunflower, 11/10) + We did Short Walk 4 and can confirm that there is no problem. (User, 4/11)

Walk 11: The first part of the walk is not passable (landslides, broken bridge in the Caixa Valley). The section from the Cabo Girão tunnel can be done: get off the bus at the Cabo Girão stop on the ER229. (several buses ply this route). Walk 30m/yds east, then take steps down to the "Levada do Facho" and follow it to the right, picking up the notes at just after the 1h55min-point. (still accurate as of 12/5/10 according to a user) + New bridge across Ribeira da Caixa with second nearing completion but possible to cross. One further river crossing just before Nogueira was impassible due to fast torrent of water spilling onto a hole where the footpath should have been; very slippery rock. We scrambled down and up across the river but men were working in this area so hopefully this will soon be sorted out. (User, 3/11)

Walk 12: OK; O fio is now closed on Wednesdays. (Authors, 3/10) For those driving: The main road down to the lighthouse is now blocked by the Restaurant O Farol which also appears to be closed. The only way down to the lighthouse is the narrow road past O Fio which has to be shared with construction traffic as they desecrate this wild and beautiful spot to make a golf course. It made the area very dusty and spoilt in July. O Fio closes MONDAYS. (User, 7/10)

Walk 13: This is ok. Note that the road where the walk starts has just changed its name to "Caminho da Irmã do Perpetuo Socorro" and the 'WC' on the map is now a new enclosed cemetery.

Older updates below:

Telephone numbers: A user recommends a taxi at Arco de São Jorge: 291 578 032 (Sunflower, 3/08)

Walk 1: In the book it states that there is a rail present on the vertiginous parts of the levada. This is not the case unless you call a couple of metal poles and a pathetic bit of wire a railing.We enjoyed the rest of the walk from Romeiros eastwards was very enjoyable. We also enjoyed Walk 2. And found the book helpful. (User, 11/08) + The bus turned round below the village at Romeiros and access to the levada was uphill from the bus stop via some concrete steps to the left of the bus shelter. (User, 2/09) + When we arrived at Romeiros, we didn't encounter a building blocking the way, although a digger was moving earth across what might have been the path. However, about 50m prior to that, there was a set of steps leading down to the road, with a hand-painted sign on the wall, to 'Levada dos Tornos'. At the bottom of these steps, after some uncertain wandering, we turned right on the road, followed the bend round to the right, and discovered the start of the trail. We never found the tap dated 1939 and didn't see any sign for the Levada do Bom Sucesso going left off the trail. Otherwise, we found our way just fine, although we took about an hour longer than expected, and we are not slow walkers. (User, 9/09) + Railings are still missing round the head of Ribiera de Joao Gomes but only for 10 meters or so. Still a bit hair-raising! I concur about lack of 1939 tap in Romeiros, and there is no first signpost to Lev do Bom Successo. Only sign is 10 mins down and is the one to take. At the T junction 2 mins after the clearing, there is no signpost but it's obvious to turn left. Turning right to the diversion to the waterfall is well worth it - loads of water right now! There is a T-junction later on where you must turn left (the right turn is "blocked off" by a few branches across the ground, and then another junction just before the high bridge where you must turn right down steps (straight on here turns into a slippy descent which a few folk have attempted in error judging by the boot prints. Again watch for branches
across the path to deter you! I saw only one red and yellow waymark on the whole route. Watch out for the spiky cactus near the end of the walk. My left arm got covered in nearly microscopic prickles which
irritated all day from one gentle brush against a cactus head. Recommend antihistamine cream in the rucsac (or just keep away from cactus!) (User, 10/09)

Walk 2: The bus turned round below the village at Romeiros and access to the levada was uphill from the bus stop via some concrete steps to the left of the bus shelter. (User, 2/09) + The Jasmin Tea House appears to be permanently closed; the owners wanted to sell up, but could not. (User, 9/09) + Several buses, both town and interurban, serve Palheiro Ferreiro; their stops are shown on the map. You might ask for a plan of the town bus routes, and timetables, at the Horarios office in the Anadia shopping centre mentioned on page 13. Or, when you are ready to leave, ask at Palheiro Ferreiro which is the next bus back to Funchal and where to catch it. (Pat & John)

Walk 3: The old ER107 road has been permanenty blocked for all traffic from the Curral end to Eira do Serrado. All traffic must now use the new tunnel. In the walk description: "As the trail makes a V-turn to the left, you are just level with the old road tunnel under the Eira." At this point it is easy to climb onto the old road and use this to walk down to Curral. With no traffic and still all the splendid views, this turns the walk into an EASY alternative to the described route. The remark "...you'll be a source of some amusement to passing motorists" no longer applies and should be removed. (User, 10/07) [Pat & John comment: We would be surprised if this road is permanently closed as opposed to being made one-way only (like the 'Antiga 101' in the north of the island). We were told in Sep. 2007 that the road was closed for repairs.] The road closure seems permanent. (User, 3/09) + Bus 81. If catching this bus in Curral das Freiras to return to Funchal make sure you are at the correct bus stop. We stood at a stop (on the opposite side of the road to where we had been dropped off) only to be informed minutes after the bus was due that the bus did not come this way and had to race round to a bus stop at the top of the village where the roads joined and you could almost see the tunnel, to catch it. Not the best thing just after an evening meal and bottle of wine. (User, 11/09)

Walk 4: The stretch of the Levada between Sitio das Quatro Estradas and Aguas Mansas suffered a lot of damage in the April storm and is currently not suitable for the casual walker or those with vertigo. In a number of places the bank has been completely washed away leaving only the levada wall to walk on with big drops; in most places the wall is about 10" wide but on one stretch it is only 4" wide. (User, 7/08) [Pat & John: We guess this user means the part of the Levada dos Tornos south of 4 Estradas and Aguas Mansas). + The Levada da Serra has been completely filled in between the access road at Sitio das Quatro Estradas and the one at Aquas Mansas. Two 12" pipes are being laid under the path so the going is very muddy and slippery when wet and in a number of places you have to climb down into the pipe trench and walk along the pipes. It's part of a multi-million ¤ project according to the notices. Pipes have also been laid between Sitio das Quatro Estradas and the water house at Santo da Serra but on this stretch the levada is being renovated too. (User, 7/08) [Pat & John: Since there never was any water on the stretch between the access road at Sitio das Quatro Estradas and the one at Aquas Mansas, filling in the path won't ruin the walk. The work will probably be completed soon.] + The track up to the ER202 was really muddy and holding water on a very wet day. When we reached the road we noticed there were signs (behind us) saying the the path may not be passable for walkers due to the ongoing works. No signs when we joined the route (from Aguas Mansas) and at the moment the path IS passable. The bus timetable at the square in Santo de Serra says the bus back to Funchal goes at 16.30 weekdays. It actually goes at 16.15 (as shown in the Madeira 9th ed 2008.) (User, 2/09)

Walk 5: The Levada do Furado between Ribeiro Frio and the Lamaceiros Waterhouse is closed at both ends, for maintenance work along its length until March 2010. It is possible to do Alternative Walk 1 in reverse, starting opposite the trout hatchery just above Ribeiro Frio, and continuing to the pools at the source of the levada in the Ribeira do Poco Bezerro and then retracing your steps to Ribeiro Frio. This is a very pleasant walk, but you do have to wait for the 18.40 bus back to Funchal. (Various users, 11/08) + Restaurante Ribeiro Frio After completing the above walk and BALCOES on 2 Feb 2008 we were looking forward to dining in the restaurant before catching the 18.35 bus back to Funchal. On sitting at the table it was noticeably cold due to none of the wood burning stoves being lit, so we put our coats back on to try and keep warm. After ordering our food and drink the waitress asked if there was anything else we would like and jokingly I suggested an electric fire. We did get a smile but no fire not even a lit candle on the table which may have helped. The standard of food was generally good but didn't take long to go cold. The bill came to 50 Euros which we didn't take much pleasure in paying. Our verdict - not recommended. We couldn't wait to get on the bus to get warm. We assume you must have visited the restaurant in the summer months to recommend it, so probably a warning would be advisable in your book for the winter period. (User, 3/08) [Pat & John: In the first edition of the book we voiced our reservations about this restaurant (poor service, unfriendly staff), but had some letters from users saying it was fine and implying that we were being unfair. We have usually eaten there in winter, but don't remember it being especially cold - apart from the fact that there are large windows and Ribeiro Frio is exceedingly damp all year round. They close early, and if there are not many people eating around 5pm, they probably let the fires go out. A pity - not least because it is the ONLY restaurant in the area.]

Walk 6: At the fourth pylon, we tried the suggestion to go below on the seaward side but gave up as a landslip had left a perilously unguarded ledge with a sheer drop below. We climbed up to the pylon, then had to work our way down through undergrowth to the path below (sticks very useful.) At Canical, the Whaling Museum is apparently due to open on a new site in autumn 2009, and the old museum was closed (Feb 2009.) (User, 3/09) + Contrary to the above update, as we approached the fourth pylon and branched off right and made our way (following red blobs) below the pylon we found no landslip. The path was good. I wonder if the user in the update took another right branch (downward) shortly after the first, which we followed a few steps before deciding to stick with the red blobs. They are installing safety netting on the cliffs above the promenade at Canical so at Natal footbridge it may be necessary to turn left into the village instead of right until the work is finished. They are renovating the levada with a grant of over 1M euros!. Workman were working at the tunnel end but allowed us to pass. Only 2 vehicles passed us in the road tunnel - much quieter now the expressway has been built. (User, 2/10)

Walk 8: The old bridge on the 'coast path' between Calhau and Pontinha (crossing the Corrego do Farrobo) is crumbling away and is only passable with care. The alternative path rising from Ponta de Sao Jorge ( 'if you are pressed for time' and shown in purple on your map p88) is now closed with a rather permanent looking 'No Entry' sign at the top. The main path up to the cemetery was open, although littered with debris near the top following recent high winds. There are road tunnel construction works near the end of the walk at Tanque. (e-mail, 02/09)

Walk 9: We attempted this walk in late June 2009 but found the path is now closed from both sides due to a landslide which the locals said happened in April 2009. The path is now too dangerous and has been closed using metal barriers and a 'no entry' sign. The rock fall (landslide) is clear to see from the Boaventura side and it started above the path on it 'cliff' section and has taken away a significant section of the path and handrail (infact we thought we could see the remains of the handrail on the beach below!!) We walked the first section from Boaventura and it is still OK to get to the ruins and sample a small section of the path. However it is clearly impassable and the cliff face is in a dangerous condition. IT IS STRONGLY RECOMMENDED NOT TO ATTEMPT THE WALK IN FULL. Boaventura is still a lovely place to visit and to get there by car is quite an adventure around the cliffs and through a single track tunnel!! We had a nice drink and snack at the bar/cafe overlooking the cliff - on the Boaventura side. (User, 7/09)

Walk 11: It is now possible to walk from Camara de Lobos to Funchal along the seafront if you are willing to cross the Socorridos where it flows into the sea just before the cement works. When we were there, there was very little water in the river. Then continue ambling over the rocks to Praia Formosa. Having crossed more rocks, you go through the tunnel and continue to Funchal. A boardwalk has been built from Praia Formosa to the cement works, but it was not open yet (at the end of 2007). (User, 3/08) + A description of where to catch more frequent buses back to Funchal from Cabo Girao than actually stop at Cabo Girao, especially on Sundays, would be helpful. (User, 12/09) Yes, this is a mistake on our part, as not that many buses call at Cabo Girao itself. But all you need do is back from the cliff to the ER209, where there are fairly frequent buses every day (except Christmas). (Pat & John)

Walk 12: The "beautifully carved façade of the house on the right" in Serrado is now overgrown and derelict. The walk along the levada was through fire-damaged woods (probably recent). (User, 2/08) [Pat & John: Fires of course occur periodically, but the regrowth is very rapid.] + You refer to an 'unpleasant rough track' between Pedragel and the levada - we found this was asphalt most of the way up (to a works depot) and then not rough for the last bit through trees. (User, 5/08) + The contented cows at Nossa Senhora da Boa Morte were less content on a showery day in February ! Towards the end of the walk, by the narrow levada bridge there is also a large water tank. The eroded jeep track soon becomes an asphalt road (as your earlier user observed). This leads to a stone-crushing / cement works just below the levada. Heavy vehicles shuttle from here to the tunnel construction works further south on the ER101. (e-mail, 2/09)

Excursion 2: You don't have to catch a bus at 7.35; we took the Rodoeste bus #139 at 9.00 via Ribiera Brava, Encumeada and Sao Vicente direct to Porto Moniz (we arrived at 12.20 having waited 35 mins at Ribiera Brava for a connecting bus.) In retrospect, we would have done better by taking the Rodoeste bus #7 at 9.00 to Ribiera Brava via the expressway, and had a coffee break there before taking the #139 at 10.30. (Feb 2009.) (User, 3/09)

Restaurant Londres in Funchal. A user writes to say that, despite the good broad bean starter, he was not impressed - the veg was overcooked; the cherne was dry, the tuna did not seem fresh. Pat & John comment: we agree about the veg; it is always overcooked, but we always have the salad because it is so fresh. The fish is on display and can be selected BEFORE it is cooked in whatever style you choose - but the restaurant's hugh turnover should ensure very fresh fish, and it always has been on the dozens of visits we've made over the years. Please bear in mind that this is not a gourmet restaurant, just a suggestion for a simple meal. In the meantime, another user has written to say they went to Londres twice for the cherne because it was so good. (2/09)