Sunflower Complete Series: ZAKYNTHOS, 2nd edition (2009)
Updated 21/11/2009
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Updates for the walks and car tours (drives) given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book and want to "upgrade" to the latest edition at half price, click here.)
Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably in hard copy, by post, to Sunflower Books, PO Box 115, Exeter EX2 6YU (or if you prefer, by e-mail, to mail@sunflowerbooks.co.uk).
FOREST FIRES, IMPORTANT: Fire is a serious problem on Zakynthos and across the Mediterranean. Statistics indicate only 1% of fires in the Mediterranean are due to natural causes each summer. The Forestry Departments throughout Greece have not documented all forests, and as a result some local people burn wooded areas so that they cannot be claimed as forests and subject to different agricultural or development regulations. This means that large tracts of land burn each summer. Almost every walk in the book is at a different stage of regeneration following fires within the last 20 years. Maquis habitats usually regenerate within 3-5 years, however traditional plant species such as carob are usually lost forever. In theory the coastline between Gerakas-Daphni should be protected carob-olive maquis vegetation, however it is seriously degraded due to it being subject to fire almost every 5 years. The area between Marathia and Keri was burnt in 2007, but it will take many years for the pines to regenerate. In fact, towering oak trees were the original species of this headland, and only a few stands remain. In 2008 vast tracks of mountains between Keri and Kiliomenos were burnt. Until all land is properly documented (i.e. ordinance survey maps; detailed habitat maps do not exist in Greece, only for some existing Natura 2000 habitats), fire will continue to be a problem. There is a fantastic wealth of orchids and flowers in the spring following the fires.] + As is usual at this time of year we have been having regular fires, as usual arson. There have been several in the mountains, but the last was at Daphni, the entire hills from top to bottom were burnt on the sea side between the two roads leading to the beach on Sunday. It is a devastating site, everything is burnt to the ground. I figured you would need to put this on the online notes for potential walkers. The fire was set in 7 separate locations in the early evening and with strong winds. (Author, 7/09)
BUSES: The north of the island (where all the major sights are located), is very poorly served by bus. There is the Askos Stone Park, for example, but there is only one bus per week to go there, and that leaves the main tourist area at 1pm, which is tremendously hot, and is not a good time to visit the park at all. (User, 8/08) [The author replies: Askos was not included in the book as I strongly disagree with the way it is promoted and the conditions in which the animals are kept there.]
GPS: Free waypoint downloads are available for all the walks. Click on the link above to go to the main page for the book, where you can download all the waypoints, as well as files to use with Google Earth. + One user complained: Unfortunately the book seems to be made especially for people who have GPS (which we do not have) (e-mail, 6/08) [Author comments: Because many areas are privately owned, the placement of signs would result in their being removed and/or shot through. Greeks do not tend to walk therefore the incentive to create and mark official trails does not exist. I apologise for any inconvenience caused, however the island is beautiful and this book provides a means for visitors to the island to truly see its natural assets. GPS coordinates were in fact not a part of the original manuscript, and were added later for GPS users. The walks can of course be done without GPS.
Em farm/place to stay: Sunflower received the following e-mail in September 2009: "I came across your rather splendid guide to Zakynthos earlier this year through some of our guests. My Swiss husband and I run an emu farm with other animals on the island. We also have beautiful accommodation in stone buildings which are available for bed and breakfast the year round. Apart from that, we welcome daily visitors to our animal park, for which we charge a small fee, and farm shop with its organic produce. We feel that what we have to offer would have a place in the guide for an alternative Zakynthos. We have lived on the island for more than 22 years and, like Gail, have formed a deep attachment for it, and feel happy when the island is presented in a positive light as you do in the guide." Gail says: "I actually live just past the turn- off for the emu farm. I left it out of the book as emus are not native to the island. I have visited the farm, several years ago now, and it is set up in the mountains with beautiful views, and was developing at the time. I will go and see it, with a view to adding it to a new edition." The farm web site is www.tsivouli.com. (Sunflower, 9/09) + Gail has been to see it and reports: I had the opportunity to visit Gill and Hans at the Emu farm last week. The architecture is beautiful, it is traditional stone but Peleponesse style with a leaf shaded courtyard and wooden walkways, and it was all done by Hans. The rooms are beautifully put together too, simple (i.e. no tv or air con for those looking for such items) but much care to attention. As they are set in the mountains the views across Laganas Bay are stunning. They make most of their own produce, and the emus are an additional attraction. Plus they are set near the mountain tracks, which while used by bird hunters are fantastic for walks (my husband and I walk up their daily with our dogs and enjoy the sunrises over Laganas Bay, and colours of the sunsets off the west coast). They are extremely hospitable and have had very interesting lives and experiences! If possible, you should definitely include the farm accommodation in the book. (Gail, 11/09)
Car tour 1: A few words have "fallen off" the end of the text on page 63: it should read "from where you can watch the sunset". (Sunflower) + The celebration day of Agios Elipsos at Kalamaki is the Sunday after Easter it is for the 13th unnamed disciple. (Author) + Restaurants: In the first edition of the book, the author recommended the Taverna Ouzéri Avgoustiátis in Lithakia. Since it was closed all summer (2008), it has been omitted from the current edition (the owner does not live on the island and the people who live in the area do not know when he will be back). If you should find it open, do try it. The original description was: "in an olive grove near Pórto Koúkla, with a fantastic view of Laganás Bay - the best place to be to watch the full moon rise. Tables are set out below a pergola of grape vines (the taverna is named for the Avgoustiátis grape that is grown around Laganás). Do not expect a 'normal' restaurant! There is no menu. You can point out the food you like in the kitchen. Each dish (whether meat, fish or vegetable) is small (mezé) and meant for sharing, and there is always something unusual on offer. Be sure to try the chípuro (aniseed drink), the wine from Lárissa (Greek mainland), and the home-made alcoholic fruit drinks. Rating *****; open for dinner from late May-late Sep.; ¤."
Walk 20: There was no green signpost near the parking area. The left-hand dirt track turned right after several minutes and led back to the village. We did not find any other track there and we also did not find the cave or the vineyard. So we gave up and started from the point were you return from the walk (and went back on the same track). (e-mail, 2008) [Author comments: These signposts were put up several years ago by the local municipality ; the post may have been hidden behind a parked vehicle. But in any case, the start of the walk is now quite overgrown with vegetation (another user had problems here in June 2009), as locals now use the newer track where the walk ends to reach their land and the monastery rather than this track. You also have to turn left twice in quick succession at the start of the walk - the sketch map shows a short track off to the right which you ignore. However, it may be easier to find the walk if you use the map to do it in reverse!] + The town hall (at the start of the walk) has just moved. The old building is now a medical centre and directly opposite it is the new town hall; it is currently a blue two storey building on the right side of the road, and the medical centre is a single storey building on the left side of the road; both have greek flags. Also with respect to the school, it would be better to say 'school playground', as the school itself is on both sides. (Author, 6/09)