LANDSCAPES OF WESTERN CRETE : CONTENTS  (to return to the main page, click here)

Preface 5
Acknowledgements; Background reading 6

Getting about 7
Plans of Hania and Rethimnon 8-9

Picnicking 10
Picnic suggestions 11

A country code for walkers and motorists 13

TOURING 14
Some points worth noting 15

THE FAR WEST (TOUR 1) 16
Hania · (Kastelli) · (Polirinia) · Sfinari · Vathi · Moni Chrisoskalitisas · (Elafonisi) · Elos · Topolia · Hania

PALEOHORA AND SOUTH COAST BEACHES (TOUR 2) 20
Hania · Tavronitis · Voukolies · Kandanos · Paleohora · Kandanos · (Sougia) · Hania

COUNTRYSIDE, COASTAL BACKWATER AND HIGH CRETAN PASTURELAND (TOUR 3) 22
Hania · Nea Roumata · Agia Irini · Epanohori · Sougia · Omalos · Lakki · Fournes · Hania

THE AKROTIRI PENINSULA (TOUR 4) 25
Hania · Kounoupidiana · Stavros · Agia Triada · Moni Gouverneto · (Souda Bay Cemetery) · Hania

THE FOOTHILLS OF THE LEVKA ORI (TOUR 5) 27
Hania · Aptera · Katohori · Kambi · Mournies · Hania

A SLICE OF CRETE (TOUR 6) 28
Hania · Vrises · Askyfou · Hora Sfakion · Frangokastello · Selia · Asomatos · Moni Preveli · Rethimnon · Episkopi · Georgioupoli · Hania

CRETAN TREASURES (TOUR 7) 33
Hania · (Rethimnon) · Armeni · Spili · Agia Galini · Festos · Agia Triada · Hania

THE AMARI VALLEY (TOUR 8) 35
Hania · Rethimnon · Apostoli · Thronos · Fourfouras · Agios Ioannis · Gerakari · Rethimnon · Hania

WALKING
Guides, waymarking, maps 38
Things that bite or sting 39
What to take 39
Where to stay 40
Weather 40
Walkers' checklist 41
Greek for walkers 41
Organisation of the walks 43

THE WALKS
1 Circuit via Agia 44
2 Theriso · Zourva · Meskla · Lakki 47
3 The Diktamos Gorge: from Katohori to Stilos (or Nio Horio) 50
4 Kambi · Volika refuge · Kambi 52
5 Georgioupoli circuit 57
6 Alikampos · Kournas Lake · Georgioupoli 60
7 The Prassanos Gorge 62
8 Rethimnon · Chromonastiri · Myli 66
9 Myli Gorge 69
10 Gouverneto and Katholikou 71
11 Rodopos · Agios Ioannis Gionis · Rodopos 72
12 A circuit from Kolimbari via Moni Gonia 76
13 From Sirikari to Polirinia 78
14 Katsomatados · Mouri · Voulgaro 80
15 Sasalos · Katsomatados · Topolia 84
16 The Agia Irini Gorge 86
17 Sougia · Lisos · Paleohora 88
18 From Paleohora (Krios Beach) to Elafonisi 90
19 Xiloskala · Linoseli Col · Gingilos · Xiloskala 92
20 A high mountain circuit from Kallergi 95
21 The Samaria Gorge 99
22 From Agia Roumeli to Loutro 102
23 Loutro and the Aradhena Gorge 104
24 From Loutro to Hora Sfakion 111
25 The Imbros Gorge · Komitades · Hora Sfakion 112
26 Askyfou · Asfendos · Agios Nektarios 115
27 Circuit via Moni Preveli 118
28 Ano Meros · Tripiti · Ano Meros 122
29 Fourfouras · Leska · Fourfouras 125
30 The Kamares Cave 128
31 Eleftherna 130

Bus timetables 133
Index (of geographical names) 135
Fold-out island map inside back cover